Thomas Rodriguez

Can you guys confirm if I am selecting the correct OEM fluid, quantity, and filters? Approaching 50k miles so want to replace transmission fluid & filter, transfer case fluid, and front/rear gear oil. Air filter is also due, so I will be replacing that as well. This truck has the 10L80 (10 speed) transmission and L86 (6.2L) motor and obviously 4x4. Rear Axle Lubricant - 32 oz (Need 3?) Part # 19300457 Dexron ULV Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1 qt (Need 13?) Part # 19352619 Dexron VI Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1 qt (Need 2?) Part # 88865601 Automatic Transmission Fluid Filter Kit with Seal Part # 24294355 Air Filter Part # 84121219

Sorry, I mistakenly thought the 10sp was a CVT given its requirements and the way the verbiage on Dexron VI bottles and others saying it is not for CVT transmissions but the Dexron ULV does not have that disclaimer on it.

For some reason I thought the 10sp was a CVT. The verbiage about it and how it is mentioned on the bottles it says not for CVT for all but the ULV. I assumed that meant the 10sp was a CVT. In fairness it feels like a CVT lol

So for the most part they say to use the same transmission fluid in the transfer case. Does that apply for the CVT transmissions? So for my truck they say the transmission fluid required is the AC Delco Dexron ULV and NOT Dexron VI. For the transfer case should I use Dexron ULV or Dexron VI? I have been searching all over and can't seem to find a clear answer

From what I gather they are not as great in snow as the other A/Ts but still light years better than all the all season and H/T tires.

So I have been reading the reviews at nauseam and here is what I have come to realize: half the reviews say they are awesome in snow and half day they are terrible in snow. The most common delineation is most the positive reviewed we’re on 4wd and AWD vehicles and most the negative ones were on 2WD or did not specify and rarely if ever were verified purchasers, which could mean they are leaving a review for the wrong tire. Oddly enough when tested by pros these have by a massive margin the BEST wet traction and wet braking and yet some of the snow complainers also complained about hydroplaning. It seems 2WD drivers think better tires will perform miracles in snow without 4WD or AWD. Even with dedicated snow tires in my G35 it was awful in the snow. In my Equus there is a zero tires that have given me any sense of traction in the snow. In fact it is the scariest car I have ever driven in the snow. I have tried so many different tires and it just doesn’t matter. Ultimately every tire I have seen has people complaining about snow traction. I suspect I will need to trust that the tire design will do what it was intended to do and manage well in snow with 4WD engaged. My Escalade years ago I had a set of Geolanders (can’t remember which version) and I could not throw it sideways no matter how hard I tried until I turned off traction control. If I get similar performance to those I will be happy as hell. Those Geolanders where fairly aggressive but I do not think they were a A/T tire… I’m almost certain they were the H/Ts… I would have to imagine these will perform better in snow than an H/T? I dunno…. I will wait and see what other recommendations come in. I’m still leaning towards the Continental but not sold on anything yet.

I didn’t get the upgraded 22s only to get 18s lol

Yeah unfortunately we can’t do the 305/45/R22 tires because they require a 9.5” wide rim and ours are only 9”. Looked at 33” X 12.5 X R22 and that was $400+ a tire. No thanks… lol

Yeah I am not sure we have any option other than 285/45/R22 at this point it seems. Reviews really seem to be pushing the Continental Terrain Contact A/Ts more than any. Lots of folks seem to be very happy with their performance and how quiet they are, etc. Tireracks review was pretty informative as well as Campus Automotive's continued reviews

Hi All, Hopefully I placed this in the correct sub-forum... I am due to replace my tires on my 2019 Sierra 1500 Denali with the stock 22" wheels. This means the tire size is 275/50/R22 which really limits tire availability. I have considered goin with a 285/45/R22 as that opens up more options. It is 2.1% shorter so hoping it's not going to be an issue with the speedo and mileage staying pretty close to accurate? Thoughts on that tire size? Thoughts? Concerns? How much is this really affecting my annual mileage if we say 10k miles per year? I suspect warranty company is fine with it as my mileage will add up a little faster... Any other tire sizes you guys recommend that open up options that wont require any recalibration to speedo? In any case, I live in MN and we have a lot of snowy road days and we ice fish, etc. Using the stock tires on the lake this year was.... well... not good. I got stuck. I would like something that will perform better on snow but also not be real noisy. I have a Denali truck with no real mods because I have finally reached an age where all I want to hear in my truck is my music and nothing else lol. So road noise is a huge factor. I had a Trail Boss as a loaner for the weekend and the aggressive tire profile on those were AWFUL. But the standard all-season tire on a truck that is the same for a car just isn't it. Is there a good all-terrain tire than is quite? Does that even exist? Looking for any input and experience any of you have on the matter. Also considering the Continental Terrain Contact A/T as well. Reviews seem to indicate they are very quiet on road as well. These are also a 285/45/R22 (smaller diamter/circumfrence). can changing from a 50 to a 45 series tire affect road noise and comfort a lot? I had 24s on an Escalade running 30 or 35 series tires and they didn't seem to sacrifice comfort, but its been a while.

yeah.... thats what I am afraid of. I am going to call Kicker today and see what they think and go from there.

Sierra Denali Has Bose Fade/Balance was/is Centered Tried adjusting it and same result. Once you go far enough in any direction it will eventually just cut out as well 4-6 all up. I have tried 1-3 all up as well. I have swapped the leads thinking that should fix phase also and nothing... I am beginning to think the amp is faulty as well. Going to try and call kicker today. My only fear is there is some protection kicking in and it doesn't seem to take much for it to get there. Im pretty sure door speakers should not overpower the sub

Sigh…….. spoke too soon. Same thing happens no matter where I plug the inputs in. It seems to be able to give a little more output on yellow wires, but ultimately does the same thing. Bass knob does very little for sound. I can feel it cause more excursion but sound output is pretty minimal. Now I have to wonder if this is a phase thing. Still running 1,4,5,6 on for the dip switches. anyone have any thoughts? I’m so disappointed I hope there is a fix and this isn’t just really poor output.

Decided to move it to the yellow wires for the rear passenger door and now it works fine. I think there may be a flaw in using the sub wires. Anyone else want to test putting your fingers on the surround have someone turn it up and see if sun stops moving until volume goes back down?

Alright…. Now I’m frustrated. So I felt like I have not gotten hardly any extra bump and what found is once I start to get it up loud enough to do anything the sub stops moving. The amp power led is still green but sub will stop moving until I turn it down enough again. My door speakers are out performing the subs with the bass setting at zero. I tried adjusting the bass knob, removed the bass knob, changed the dip switch settings to see if I can find something that works with the gain and nothing. I started with 1, 4,5,6 on and then tried just 4,5,6 on. When neither produced good results I tried all sorts of combos and got nothing. Any ideas?

I managed to get it all wired up today and took some video that will hopefully help. I do need to run the amp harness under the carpet and then plug it in and adjust eq and put the fuse in and then I am live. Hoping I will find time to finish it up. If all works okay, I will then get the videos up. For the time being I plugged the green wire into the green with black stripe wire and the brown wire of the harness into the blue wire with silver stripe.

The last Gen did fine after the inaugural year or two. A 2009 was way better to have than a 2007 Avalanche for instance. 2010 5.3 and for sure you were in business for the long haul from what I have experienced and read. A lot of the time it’s not even the technology. Often the engineers created a great design and the issue was getting someone to manufacture a great part. That can happen on any Gen motor at any time. No matter how simple or complex the motor design is. So if they starts to remanufacture an older Gen of the 5.3 they could end up having a whole heap of problems if one part has a quality control issue. Even if it is the same part that never failed after 500,000 miles on older units.

For what it’s worth… my car has adaptive cruise and I am always manually adjusting anyway because I got tired of it braking. I want it to anticipate and start coasting rather than braking and I’m not sure any of them do that. If they do then maybe the is the speed differential and the person in front of me is always too great I dunno

Be my mindful also that 3M like many others has various grades of film. Perhaps you got the bottom of the barrel stuff but to be honest I believe that is what I got installed as I did not want metal to ensure it would not I o to my radio, gps, or cell phone signal.

While I don’t have the 3M ceramic I do have 3M film that has been in my car for 5 years with zero fading. The 3M ceramic film is quite new so not sure that it could have had enough time to make that assessment. Also 3M has lifetime warranty against fading and color shift. I suspect you maybe have it mistaken for something else? A good friend of mine is actually a professional installer and will repair or replace whatever I decide to put it for free for life and 3M is what he recommended knowing he is the one to have to replace it free if it has any issues.

Any chance anyone wants to share a little video on where the sub wires are and how you got to them? I think this could make install much easier for most.

My recommendation on tint is get the 3M ceramic tint. game change in terms of heat reduction. You may actually want to do ALL of the windows even though the rears have tinted already to ensure you have are elimination as much UV and heat as you can from the sun if you park outside a lot. You will likely need to call your local tint shops to find someone that uses it. I'm still on a quest myself to find a tonneau cover under $500 that works with carbon pro box and multipro lift gate.

I'm not sure I understand the logic. Lifter failure after 8,000 will still get that whole bank done... these failures are likely going to fail early, no? I mean eventually things can wear down and fail over a long term because mechanical parts wear, but I would be more concerned about burning them all in to find if I have one that is going to have premature failures while still under warranty.

Is it that you are just not comfortable with change in general or is it that these newer 5.3s and 6.2 are having issues with the cylinder deactivation? I know back in 2007 the 5.3 had an issue with oil consumption because of it but has been since resolved as far as I am aware. We have to remember technology matures and as such early innovations tend to have issues and further down the road they get more and more reliable.

Did you get the manual or the auto version? Since they are the same price any reason not to get the auto? Does the auto just always stop it from opening all the way into a step?