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Drives

Found 7 results

  1. Hello all! It was suggested I start a build thread so here I am starting one! My truck is a 2016 Silverado Regular Cab with the 5.3L v8 and 6 speed automatic. It has the IOB 7" infotainment center with Apple Play/Android Auto, trailer hitch incorporated into the rear bumper, cruise control, 40/20/40 seats etc and although I originally thought it had 3:42 gears based on the standard items listed on the sticker I somehow missed that my option column shows that it actually has the 3:08 gears. The LT interior was a little too busy looking for me and had a bunch of stuff I didn't really need and about the only option the LS didn't have that I wished for is the steering wheel audio/phone controls but I think I can get by without those especially after finding out from the dealer the cost as well as what it would take to install. I had modifications in mind before even getting the truck such as lowering, tire/wheel upgrade, increasing performance/handling, upgrading to a competition level audio system (my hobby and side business) and of course plans to personalize it to my tastes. Here's what I have done so far and the more I read this forum the more I add to my list so future plans are below! Day 1 Before installing 2" drop shackles and removing spacer block (shows the chrome door handles I installed but did not like so they got changed quickly) After shackles installed/spacer block removed and color matched handles as well as mirror caps installed The gold Bowtie looked out of place to me so I color matched the front one using the rattle can custom mix kit you can get on eBay or Amazon along with Duplicolor primer/adhesion promoter I didn't like the look of the rear Bowtie at all even after color matching so I removed it and I also added the LS emblem to balance out the rear somewhat since now only the LT and LTZ trucks get those emblems for some reason. (I also plan to color match the tailgate handle) More coming in a few minutes!
  2. Recently put on some 35x12.50R17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W's and the truck has developed this pulsation like feel throughout the entire chassis. The issue was not there the day I drove to get them mounted and it started just after I through the new wheels and tires on. The wheels and tires were road force balanced by a local shop and they said there were no issues. They also labeled the tires with the recommended mounting location on the truck. You can feel it in the wheel and through the chassis but its not necessarily a vibration of a tire feeling out of balance. The issue starts at 60 mph and smooths out the faster I go but it is annoying as hell. This is not my first all terrain tire but it is the first time I have run the Wildpeaks. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this with these tires and how you fixed the issue because aside from this issue, these tires are way above the Toyo AT2 Extremes and KO2's I have run.
  3. Thought I'd post a review of the newly installed suspension and wheel set up on my 2016 GMC Sierra Denali 1500. Previous set up was stock MagneRide suspension with ride height sensors and 22" stock wheels with Nitto Terra Grappler G2's size 285/45r22. I'm at 70k miles and the ride was steadily getting worse (too stiff), so I researched for a while and ended up installing the following: HaloLifts Boss Ultimate Kit (adjustable coilovers for 1" to 3" of lift in front, and 1" of lift in the rear) - http://www.halolifts.com/HaloLifts-Boss-Ultimate-Kit-fits-your-2007-UP-GM-SilveradoSierra-1500_p_220.html Stock GMC Sierra 18" rims (powder coated black) with Falken Wildpeak AT3W's size 275/70r18 Bypass sensor kit for all 4 MagneRide shock sensors and all 4 ride height sensors (I removed all ride height sensors that are mounted to the frame) - http://www.xineering.com/shocksims.html Up first, the HaloLifts Boss Ultimate Kit At $1299, this is a more expensive kit vs the Fox, Bilstein, or Rancho equivalant. What swayed me to this kit was that I was not looking for a crazy lift and I wanted something that was plug and play should I go a different route once these start to fail (like all shocks eventually do). Additionally, I found multiple reviews on this forum and other brand forums where people said they had installed Fox, Bilstein, and/or other brands and this was the best riding kit and worth the extra cash. You'll find a rep from the company, Alex, who's posted in this forum, as well as others, and he says call him with any questions. I did, and he answered every time and would not let me go until I had EVERY question answered. The customer service is outstanding with this place. I ended up going with the coilovers set at 1.5" of lift and I put .5" spacers beneath it to get 2" of total lift and the softest ride possible. Each kit is made custom to what you want, so that's how it arrived for me. You can have the coilovers set at 2" if you want, then add 1" of spacers underneath. Since I am only doing 2" of lift, I did not purchase new UCA's. Below are pics of me opening the packages. Again, thoroughly impressed with how sealed everything was with plenty of foam and cardboard to protect everything. Install was a breeze, thanks to instructions that were included and my convo with him over the phone. One last thing, the "do the rear shock boots go down or up?" debate has been settled. According to HaloLifts they go down :-) Next, the new wheel/tire set up I downsized from a 22" set up to an 18" set up so I could get more sidewall and a softer ride. While I like the look of a larger rim, it was so easy to get scratches on the 22" rims since they are so close to the ground and there's not enough sidewall on the tire to bulge out a little bit to help protect the rims. So, new set up gets me a softer ride and better rim protection. I went with a stock rim and had it powder coated black because I've had mixed experience with aftermarket rims (good and bad). As far as the tire choice, Falken Wildpeaks kept coming up as best all around value for it's performance. I've had KO2's in the past, as well as other AT tires but I wasn't blown away by their performance for how much you spend on them. Falken's were cheaper, but hold up well in rain, snow, and mud. Plus they have an aggressive look, that's a nice bonus. Below are pics of the truck with the new wheel and suspension set up. I'll follow that up with the obligatory, "pardon the dirty truck, haven't had time to wash it". Last, the MagneRide bypass kit This only applies to those who have the MagneRide suspension and ride height sensors (certain trims like Denali). If you do have it, you'll need to bypass the sensors or you'll forever be dismissing a message that says "service suspension system". If you can live with that, then ignore all of this. If it'll drive you nuts, you have 2 options - one cheap, but could lead to other issues and the other is not so cheap, but will not have issues. There are 8 sensors total, 4 shock sensors and 4 ride height sensors. The first option is to go cheap and buy 8 resistors (3 ohm, 25 watts). You then splice them in at every sensor. The risk here is corrosion, if you don't seal the splices properly this leads to the wire harnesses going bad and having to purchase all new harnesses and resistors to do all of the work again (and now you've spent more money on the harnesses). In all, this could run you about $50 for resistors, heat shrink, and a heat gun. The second option is to do what I did and buy the professional bypass kit from x-ineering. It's $425, but they'll give you a $75 discount if you post about your install on social media. I went this route because they clip in and seal the wiring, just like the stock sensors. No risk of corrosion and everything they make is backed by warranty. Overall, I'm super happy and love the ride. Only a couple hundred miles on it so far, I'll report back after all my Thanksgiving travel coming up (1500+ miles). Let me know if there are any questions!
  4. From the album: Post Level

    2014 1500 SLT Z71, 20" stock wheels, struts and shocks (Rancho); generic front 2.5" strut top spacers, Rough Country forged upper control arms, Moog control bar bushings, AC Delco control bar connectors, generic 3/16" hub-centric front wheel spacers, ReadyLift 2.25" rear blocks, 275/60R20 Falken AT3W
  5. Hi everyone, First off if there is a more appropriate place to post this please let me know and I'll be happy to repost! So to start off I have a 2015 Sierra 1500 with spacers on the top of the shock tower that create about 2-2.5" of lift and 3" rear blocks. I searched over multiple forums but couldn't find anyone with this exact issue. I went from stock 265/70r17 bridgestone duelers to 285/70/r17 Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws. Everywhere I searched it seems that plenty of people run the 285/70/17 KO2s with no issues with a level so I figured these would be the same, unfortunately at full lock the tire rubs on the UCAs. I was wondering what my options here are, the way I see it I have 3 options. 1. Downsize to 275/70/17 AT3Ws and get a little money back 2. Put some spacers on and hope that the UCA rub goes away and doesn't create a problem with the fender liner (I don't know much about these or how far I would have to go with them, I would prefer not to cut anything) 3. An offroad shop said that they could shave down the UCAs if they're the right material (I forget what kind I would need to have, I know that there are 3 different stock options for 2015). Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated! I have 30 days with the tire shop to decide what I would like to do, but I would prefer to get it done sooner so that I can stop worrying about it! Thanks everyone.
  6. Yeah, I know. ANother tire thread. Ugh. But before you shoot me, I've got a slightly different kinda tire issue... Well, my Goodyear SRA's bit the dust, so after a bunch of research, I decided on a set of Falken Wildpeak A/T3W in 275/65R18. I have now been back to Discount Tire three times for a constant vibration problem that will just not go away. DT has been awesome, no issue with them. I really had high hopes for these tires (they are SOOO much better in the rain than the SRA's), but they're just not working for me. I'm thinking one of them is out of round, though a couple of them took (what I thought was) a lot of weight to balance out, over 6oz. This is my 2nd set of Falken tires (had them on a Focus a number of years ago), so I've lost confidence in them. Anyhow... Discount Tire has offered to take them back and get me into another tire. I think I have narrowed it down to 2 different ones, trying to stay in my budget. I don't need a LT tire, to heavy for my needs. I think the choices that fit me the best are: Cooper Discoverer AT3 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 I want an AT tire, but the BFG KO2's are out of my price range. I've ruled out a couple of others for one reason or another, so I'm leaning more towards the Nitto. Opinions? Thoughts?
  7. I have an 08 Silverado 1500 on a 2 inch RC level, I want to make sure that a 20x9 with a -12mm offset with a 275 55 r20 tire will both fit without any rubbing and look good, currently I am on an 18x9 with an 18 mm offset. Also will I have the tires sticking out past the wheel wells? Thanks.
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