After trimming the pods I was able get the pillar back in however another issue arose. The pod is stated to be aimed 6" in front of the headunit at center and slightly upward which I found from my previous experimenting would work fine however they are actually aimed right at the top center of headunit and slightly downward which is definitely not going to work. My guess is something goofed in production (these are made on a 3D printer) and I brought it to the attention of the maker several days ago however the only reply was they may have been a pre production design so I'll withhold judgement on these until or if the issue is resolved.
Pods fit the pillars perfectly however I cannot get the pillars back in due to the lower portion hitting the dash so I'm gonna have to trim where the tape is as well as the bottom edge for them to work (I'm just using smaller chambered tweeters so it should be fine however I'm not sure how well these will work with mini mids)
Well that was a short lived system! The Alpine headunit just didn't have enough processing to do what I wanted to do and I never really used all the other features so I am going back to the stock headunit with a dsp or possibly an amp/dsp combo. Nasty sent me a set of the Mercury components he's using to try out along with the a pillar tweeter pods so Ill he giving those a try next.
The 3/8" thick weatherstripping wasn't thick enough so I added some sponge foam to make sure it was snug. Also, the speaker adapter was a little sloppy at the bottom so I added sponge foam to snug it up (the adapter actually has holes at the bottom but I didn't want to drill into the truck)
Got the drivers door done. To knock out the resonance and block high frequency noise I used SoundSkins mat with pre attached foam on the inside of the outer skin and Raammat on the inner frame (the reason you can't see the mat on the inner frame is because I put it on the backside and kept the factory vapor barrier). There was already some noise barrier on the back side of the door panel so I felt it would be redundant to use foam on the inner skin. To make wiring easier I just used the Ford speaker wire adapters and tapped in behind the kick panel.
Picked up this kit to make terminal ends for the crossover and speaker wires. It came with a ratcheting crimp tool as well as silcone insulating sleeves and imo they look better than the typical crimp type insulated connectors.
Got the mids ready to install using Metra adapters with birch mounting rings packed in modeling clay. The outside is wrapped in sound deadener and I'll use foam weatherstripping to seal the adapter to the inside of the door panel.
I've been chatting with the guy from the site below who is working on new a-pillar pods for the k2 . They are not on the site yet (they are due by the end of the month) and Im not sure he would be ok with me sharing the CAD drawing he sent but you can get an idea of what he does by checking out the pics for other years. https://www.customspeakerpods.com/general-motors
Decided to stick to my original K.I.S.S. plans so I'm going to use the old school Alpine SPX-PRO's with the multi adjustable passive crossovers but I am going to go with pods to put the ring radiator tweeters on axis on top of the dash.
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