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Showing results for tags 'Brakes'.
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low voltage at trailer plug
Henry L posted a topic in 2020+ Silverado HD & Sierra HD Troubleshooting
2020 Silverado 2500, have taken this truck to two different GM dealers and they cannot find an issue. At the at the 7-pin plug when the manual gain is depressed at 100%, it only puts out 7 volts. Need 12 to lock up brakes. Cannot properly set up my gain when hooked to trailer before towing. Dealership has replaced fuse block brake controller and I had them change out the plug on the bumper. Still the same. At neither dealership have they been able to give me voltage going in the controller and coming out. One even said they can't put a volt meter on it. I believe it's a wire somewhere. But due to my health issues I cannot physically work on my truck. I'm probably going to end up taking it to an auto electrician. Any thoughts! -
I'm about to install the Chevy Performance Brembo Brake Upgrade on our Silverado. Has anyone else installed this kit? Anyone thinking about it? At first glance, it seems pretty straightforward. After reading the manual, however, I'm realizing I need to take the front wheel bearings off to access the dust shield. Other than that, it seems to be a easy rotor/caliper replacement. Big thanks to @RyanbabZ71 for recommending a great brake bleeding tool! The front set is a true six-piston caliper. The rear calipers are stock calipers painted red to match the fronts. The size increase on the front rotors is significant. I'm gathering the tools I'll need right now. Hopefully I can tear into it next week. I expect the entire process to take me at least a whole day and maybe two days depending on how it goes. Why so long? I'll be photographing and taking video of the entire process. Can't wait to share that with you all. Check back in this thread for progress updates.
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Hey all! I'm the proud owner of our 1st brand-new vehicle ever! this '22 Silverado HD High County is a game-changer for pulling our new camper trailer! I recently retired and found this beauty on a dealer lot near me! So... as per usual with my vehicles, I really enjoy there look of nice clean, glossy calipers peaking from behind the rims! These wheels are not as open-spoked as others I've done, but still look great, especially when they turning miles not the highway! I always use the brush-on G2 caliper paint. The stuff is incredible! Here's a couple pictures in process and afterwards... Carl
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Currently have my 2020 Gmc sierra 1500 with a build date of 09/2019 at the dealer with 2kmiles on it. Battery was dead one morning. After jump starting had check engine light and brake antilock system issue sent to my email. Truck would not hold a charge after leaving it on for a good 30 min. Its been at the dealer for 3days now. -
2004 Yukon Denali XL 1500 AWD Ok, so I have done many brakes in the past but this has me stumped. I put new calipers rotors and pads all the way around on the truck and have bled the brakes like 6 times. twice with a helper and 4 times with a bottle. All times the fluid comes out with no air but it still goes to the floor when its turned on. A small amount of push back is noticed after pumping a few times while the truck is off. But as soon as I turn it on and push its nothing. I have read about there possibly being air in the ABS module and am looking for how to bleed that with just one person and have it actually work. The master cylinder is and has been filled throughout and never dropper too low. I placed all the new parts and puller the hose off the old calipers and attached it to the new ones quickly replacing the copper washers. I just cant figure out what could be happening, any help would be appreciated.
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I have about 6000 ( i travel a lot and despise airplane seats ) miles on my 2019 GMC SEIRRA DENALI 5.3 ( I love chrome lol ) . I've been experiencing a very troubling issue been to the dealership once already and had a hard time convincing them that something was wrong with the truck .Every time i drive for long periods of time or idle for 10+ mins when i shift from park to drive i cannot go faster than 5 mph without the rear brakes locking up. I do not know if this is some kind of limp mode or what . Contacted GM they work slower than molasses , idk what to do -
I am new to the forum here and I apologize if this has been asked prior, I tried searching, but came up empty. I have a 2020 Sierra 2500 Denali and for the past 5k miles or so I have had noise in the rear. I learned there was a safety bulletin on the rear brakes due to noise, but because I was out of the B2B warranty and it was not covered and would be an out of pocket expense. With my son in the business can do the work, so I went ahead and ordered and paid for a set of brake pads and now have been waiting for almost 3 weeks. The dealer told me that GM is not releasing the pads (I suspect unless the dealer is doing the work) and that they have no expected date of delivery. I'd like to stay with OEM, any recommendations on where I can locate a set would be greatly appreciated. Or if anyone has a recommendation on a good aftermarket set of pads, that would be appreciated as well. Rotars are no problem, I have them, just waiting on the pads. Thanks.
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Experienced a one-off braking issue while descending a 7% grade. Had driven ~100 miles, stopping as needed with no issues. Began descending about 3 miles of maximum 7% grade touching the brakes infrequently as my 2018 Silverado 2500HD Duramax does a great job of reducing speed when off the petal. No towing selector, downshifting, no engine brake engaged. I’m just about to level ground, slowly apply my brakes and HELLO! Front-end/wheels start shaking like I’m about to throw a wheel. I feather braked to a stop on a side street, checked for play in the wheels and nothing evident. Continued another 120 miles, up hill/down hill, two 9% grades and only one instance of a very light wobble. Suggestions/similar situations?
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I could only find rear brake caliper and bracket torque specs for a 2015 silverado crew cab. Are the torque specs the same for the front? Thanks.
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Just had this happen. Going under 15mph, applying the brake causes the pedal to become stiff and lock up and not work. This has caused me to almost hit someone twice. Sounds to me like brake booster. Anyone else having/had this problem??? -
Check engine light 2019 Silverado
5JB posted a topic in 2019-2023 Silverado & Sierra Troubleshooting
Anyone have a check engine light show up then go away and come back? Code uo129 lost communication with brake control module, UO101 lost communication with transmission Control Module. Went to bed with no check engine light, woke up in the morning for work and noticed the truck would not remote start. When I go in to head to work noticed check engine light. After work ran codes. Shortly after getting codes and using google to research check engine light was gone. Went for a drive never came back on. Woke up this morning it was on again. Can anybody relate? -
I have a 2019 Sierra HD with integrated brake controller. I'm towing a 5th wheel camper with two axles and electric brakes on each. Behind the camper I'm town an ATV trailer with two axles, but only one of them has an electric brake. Towing either of the trailers individually there are no issues with the trucks brake controller to control the brakes on the trailer. But with both trailers connected the truck won't apply any 'juice' to the brakes. It does nothing - no brakes on their trailer. When I manually apply the brake controller it does nothing. GM is telling me the truck is only designed to handle two sets of electric brakes and if I want to handle 3, I would need to add an after market controller to control the 2nd trailer separately. I can understand that, but does it make sense the trucks computer/controller would not apply any 'juice' to the brakes when it senses too much resistance via the 3 sets of brakes? Has anyone had this issue? How did you resolve? -
My new old '88 truck needs a new brake light switch. It's got a release switch thing for cruise control in front of it (but no cruise control on the column), and I'm wondering if anyone with a similar set up can give me some basic tips on how to get to that brake light switch, in order to take it out. Can you wiggle your fingers around in there and get it loose, or will I have to take something off to get to it? The cruise control switch is on the brass bracket from the steering column. Even if I take the cruise control switch out, it's hard to get to the brake light switch. But I'm new at this, so maybe I'm whining too early or missing something.
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Well, here it is: N182202780 - Special Coverage Adjustment - Brake Assist Decreased Due to Vacuum Loss GLOBAL SAFETY FIELD INVESTIGATIONS DCS5013 URGENT - DISTRIBUTE IMMEDIATELY Date: April 10, 2019 Subject: N182202780 - Special Coverage Brake Assist Decreased due to Vacuum Loss Models: 2014 – 2017 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV 2014 – 2017 Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe 2014 – 2017 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL To: All General Motors Dealers General Motors is releasing Special Coverage N182202780 today. The total number of U.S. vehicles involved is approximately 3,357,584. Please see the attached bulletin for details. This special coverage covers the condition described above for a period of 6 years or 72,000 miles (116,000 km), whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, regardless of ownership. For vehicles covered by Vehicle Service Contracts, all eligible claims with repair orders on or after April 10, 2019 for US, (April 11, 2019 for Canada), are covered by this special coverage and must be submitted using the labor operation codes provided with this bulletin. Claims with repair orders prior to April 10, 2019 for US, (April 11, 2019 for Canada), must be submitted to the Service Contract provider. Vehicle owners or lessees who paid for repairs referenced in this Special Coverage (“Customers”) are eligible for reimbursement of their reasonable and customary expenses in accordance with the procedures specified below. -
As stated, I have an 05 1500 silverado 5.3 v8 4x4 4L60e. It's got a bunch of electrical issues, ie. Dome lights only stay on for maybe a second or 2 when I open my driver door with the truck on or off, speakers going in and out, gear indicator lights only work and come on in the evening when the automatic headlights come on, every couple thousand miles my service 4wd light comes on but my 4wd actually works... The problem I am most concerned about now is my front driver side brake. No lights are on on the dash. It is not releasing. I have put a new caliper, rotor, pads, wheel hub assembly, CV axle, wheel speed sensor... lots of stuff. My thought is that the issue is related to the abs system. My brake seems to release properly when I pull the abs fuse out. Brake fluid is fine. As this is a newer issue, my parts are all in good enough condition. Does anyone have any experience with this particular issue with the aforementioned symptoms? And does anyone have an idea how to fix said issue if it is electrical? I'm going to possibly try a new caliper tomorrow and re grease my slide bolts depending on what my scan tool finds. -
Im wondering what issue would cause the rear wheel cylinder ears that hold the brake pads, to shear off? I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 2WD 4.8L with rear drumbrakes. I replaced the rear wheel cylinders and brake shoes on both sides. After 5-10 minuets of driving, i had extremely loud squealing from the rear when braking to a stop. I took off the drums to check and saw that the passenger side wheel cylinder ears had sheared right off, but only on the outside of the truck, not inside ears. The shoe that is towards the front of the truck also was pushed out towards the inside of the drum and was rubbing on the inside facing where the hub sits so that must be what was causing the squealing. But i dont understand what would cause such a force to shear the wheel cylinder ears right off. Drum out of round? Before i replaced the shoes, both passenger and driver side shoes towards the front were almost to the metal shoe backing plate, so thats why i replaced them.
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2015 Silverado 1500 This weekend I changed my rear rotors. It was a simple swap, old ones off, new ones on. The next morning I went to start the truck and barely got it to turn over and the DIC threw a message up saying service trailer brake system. My radio also completely reset and when I press on my brakes all lights dim. Any suggestions in what this could be? -
John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem: -
I have a 2000 Silverado 2500 6.0l. Long story short, I was bad and shotgunned parts at it. Replaced Hydroboost, master cylinder, and the power steering pump. Also put in a new return line from hydro boost to pump with an inline filter. I still have no power steering, and the brake pedal goes to the floor and slowly comes back up. I’m lost. Apologies in advance for any poor forum posting, I’m new on here. -
Got an interesting one for the forum. After the truck (2016 GMC Sierra) has been sitting a while (usually over night or for a few hours) the pedal let's out a nice squeak. On rare occasions I can get it to do it twice in a row, but most of the time the squeak is only for the first press then is gone for all the other presses. Normal daily driving I don't hear it, it's only the first press or when I have to hit my brakes hard (ex, cut off by someone). My local dealer service department (who's treated me well and has good mechanics) looked at it and said they can't repeat it enough to truly diagnose it. Some squeaks are real quick and others last about 2 seconds. The only way I can describe it is like a relief valve letting some air out, but with a squeak. Sometimes I can hold the pedal in place after depressing and the squeak continues to let out. It's not like a metal plunger rubbing on a rubber boot as I depress the pedal, plus I would be able to make the sound every time if that were the case. Below is a video I took on two different occasions, they are looped a couple times. You'll hear what I'm talking about and see that it's gone on the second press. I did have the vacuum pump replaced due to the recall about a year ago, I noticed it after that but the dealership said the pump and vacuum is holding well the entire time, even when it squeaks. They only guess they had was to replace the brake pedal assembly or the brake booster, but admittedly said that would just be throwing parts at it. Just got the truck back today, didn't get charged for the diagnosis since they couldn't figure it out. Now I'm turning to the forum. Any idea what's going on?!? -
I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 2500. The abs cable on the front driver side is disconnected because of a lift installed. Is there an extension cable or something out there that will connect? I swear I’ve looked everywhere?
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Being that the 91 Suburban is a square body I posted here in hopes of getting some help. I have a 4x4 suburban 1/2 ton I just overhauled the brakes. On the back brakes I replaced everything (All springs, axle brake lines, wheel cylinder, all new hardware including self adjustment wheel and kit and the wheel cylinder links) except the drums and the backing plate which I couldn't find a new replacement. Please note also there is no parking brake cable at all, no parking brake strut or the arm that holds the cable. Three things I have done that could have contributed to the problem that I want to mention. 1.) The only replacement wheel cylinder links I could find were slightly longer. (The original ones were terribly rusted and there was no drag what so ever.) 2.) I cheaped out and didn't get the rotors turned. They looked fine. 3.) The backing plate tabs had grooves in them so I carefully ground them nearly flat as to not take an insane amount of material off. So I put everything together and adjusted the star wheel to where the pads were just barely touching the drums. With the wheel off, the drum did spin nice and freely. Though I suspect slight warpage. I drove to town about 7 miles away and back and everything seemed normal. Got out of the truck and smelled a burning smell and noticed the hub on the driver's side rear wheel was too hot to touch. I jacked the truck up and the wheel could spin freely by hand going backwards, but forward it would lock up! I took the tire and drum off and backed off the adjustment some, put it back together and once again it moved forward and backwards freely. Took it for another test drive and the same thing. I have ordered another set of pads because the ones I put on are heat damaged and ordered a new set of drums. I just can't figure out why they would lock up going forward and not in reverse. I'm just fishing for ideas here, never seen anything like it. (Update): I lightly sanded the brake shoes and they look good as new. I got the rear end jacked up and backed the star wheels all the way to the closed position. With the drum off on the driver's side, I lightly pressed on the brake and the rear shoe was failing to return to a closed position. I added extra lube and it appears to be functioning. But I still don't feel confident the problem won't return. Anyhow, I'm incrementally adjusting the star wheel by 50 clicks on each side and with the truck in neutral the wheels turn and I work the brakes. Put it in drive and reverse working the brakes. So far so good. Now making smaller increments in adjustments. If anyone knows where I can find brand new backing plates and the proper wheel cylinder links it would be much appreciated. I can't find them. I even called Dorman and they have nothing. It's a 91 ten bolt, 30 spline, 6 lug axle. I found a disc brake kit for around 400 bucks, but I feared having to change out the proportioning valve and master cylinder. I don't know that I would, but am afraid to open that can of worms. Unless someone has did a rear disc conversion and can tell me otherwise. I'm just wanting my brakes to work properly. It's a rusty old truck that's my daily driver. -
I own a 04 chevy silverado 1500. The brakes are spongy ( I've bleed them throughly, new everything except booster and master). My work trucks brakes are great 06 Sierra 2500 hd dual piston calipers all the way around same pads as the ones in my chevy. The question is can I upgrade to a dual piston the rear? They currently have the wimpy single piston. If an upgrade is possible do I need to upgrade the Master cylinder to accommodate the extra volume? If so can I just order the 2500 hd master cylinder?
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Hoping to get a little insight on a brake problem. I'm in need of a brake proportioning valve but, it's turning out to be a tad difficult finding the correct one. My 69 C10 is stock, no ones has messed with the brakes but for some reason I can't find the correct proportioning valve. I've purchased two from Classic Industries and both of them turned out to be the wrong one. They sent 5 port proportioning valves both times but I only have a 4 port... 2 inlet, 2 outlet factory 4 wheel drum. Is this such a difficult problem? Seems odd. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. -
looking for a little guidance...I have tried to do quite a bit of research, but haven't really found a convincing direction for my breaks...I have 69k miles on my truck...and breaks are acting up a bit...nothing crazy, but they need a little attention at least...and I am concerned that the little issue will turn big quickly... I am not looking to go crazy on an upgrade, as far as I can tell the stock brakes are fine for me...(unless the upgrade cost is minimal)...basically I have come across Wagner (I think most chains like Firestone/Hibdon, etc.) install these...but also have seen quite a bit of AC Delco professional (dealers and independents install these-it seems). 1) for just OEM replacement brakes/rotors, is there a noticeable difference between Wagner and AC Delco or other? (or feel free to throw out other options?) 2) I have read a few reviews of people regretting they turned their rotors...what are the thoughts there, just skip the turn and buy new ones? or was that a small sample size of reviews I saw? please let me know your thoughts...thanks in advance!
