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Found 7 results

  1. If yes, at how many miles and which ones did you go with? Did you also get new rotors? If yes, which ones did you go with? I'm at 38,000 miles and approaching 45,000-50,000 miles very soon, this is typically when I change my brake pads/rotors, being this is the first truck i've ever owned brand new, i'm a little concerned about brake pad brands and rotors.. Most of my driving is highway, maybe 80hwy/20city
  2. I changed the brakes and rotors out on my 14 Silverado crew cab about a month ago go to the brakes squeaking non stop, and a visible gouge on the driver side rotor. The pads still had about 60% on them but changed them out anyway, here I am a month later and the same damn squeaking is back, there is no visible sign of anything dragging the rotor but holy hell is it annoying. Anyone had this issue?
  3. New member here. I'm 17 and graduated from my school's Automotive program three weeks ago. I thought this meant I was knowledgeable enough to save my parents some money by replacing the front brake pads, rotors, axles, and bearings on their 2000 Yukon XL 2500 for them. Everything went relatively smoothly aside from a rusted-on bearing hub bolt that needed to be sawed off and replaced. After putting the tire back on, I gave the wheel a spin and a soft but noticeable grinding noise emanated from the wheel assembly. I tried the tire on the other side and the same thing happened. I looked up the problem and most people said to drive the car normally and the noise would go away after a mile or so. I drove the car 16.2 miles to my high school and back (braking hard three or four times) but the noise didn't go away. I invited an Autotech classmate over to take a look. We tried rebuilding the caliper pistons. Turns out the dust shield isn't replaceable, and I had to buy a new caliper for the passenger side. The noise didn't go away after replacing the caliper either. Any advice for a girl who's out of ideas? Thank you, Daughter-of-a-Yukon-Owner
  4. So I've been pretty un-happy with the factory brake feel for a while now. I don't like the initial bite and I think they require allot of heat to really get good feed-back from them. So I decided to upgrade to Hawk HPS Front and Rear pads along with the Hawk HUS8657 Quiet Slot Front Rotors. I've used Hawk pads previously in my Auto X car and have nothing but good things to say about them, hopefully these will also be the case. Normally I would of left the O.E rotors but Hawk advertises improved initial bite and Amazon is selling these at pretty much 50% off. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004D2UKPG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 I'll be installing these in a few days and I'll give a good comparison of the new setup.
  5. My front end on driver side just started creaking. Mainly when in reverse or turning slow. What can cause this? My fluids are good and full.
  6. I haven't done much repair work since I was a kid, so I've been doing some things on my own lately, trying to become a little more self-reliant with my truck. Last night I replaced my front hub bearing assembly but in the reassembly process I made a mistake with the brakes. I'm not sure exactly what I did. . On my test drive around the block the brakes started dragging. I pulled the wheel off and found that the inside brake pad was cocked and the ear had made contact with the rotor. It left a rough ring about 3/8" wide around the rotor. I can't discern any depth to the ring. To my touch it just feels rough. I may not have fully reset the caliper pistons. I might have twisted the brake pad when I put it on. I really don't know. I have a few questions: 1) What did I do wrong? 2) Have I ruined the rotor? And if so, do I need to get it resurfaced or replaced?
  7. Hello All, At approximately 38000 Miles I changed the front brakes on my Silverado. I installed Raybestos R-300 Performance Rotors (http://www.raybestosbrakes.com/magnoliaPublic/home/products/rotors/r-300-performance-rotors.html) and Advanced Technology Brake Pads (http://www.raybestosbrakes.com/magnoliaPublic/home/products/brake-pads/advanced-technology-disc-brake-pads.html). Now at 70000 Miles I started hearing the wear indicator on the brake pads go off so I decided to investigate. This is what I found: As you can see, the pad was only making contact with about 50% of the Inboard rotor surface. It appears that the pad was worn away in the area where is was not making contact. Although the front left was more severely worn, the front right has the same exact issue. The Outboard pads had less wear and the surface contact appears normal. I inspected the caliper, pad frame and clips for anything abnormal. Other that some surface rust, all looked OK. The Calipers were moving freely on the pins (which were still well greased) and the pads did not appear to be sticking at all on the frame clips. The pistons pushed back into the calipers easily and do not appear to be sticking. Up until the squeal of the wear indicator on the inboard pads, braking force felt adequate (Apparently it was not with only 75% of the pads touching the rotors) I replaced the rotors/pads/clips/pin bellows with new and purged/bled the system. All normal. I plan to contact Raybestos for their opinion on what might have caused this. I am disappointed with the lack of longevity I got from these brakes; poor value for the money spent. Have any of you experienced this abnormal wear? Regards, Keith
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