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Drives

Found 9 results

  1. I purchased a 2021 Silverado Crew Cab High Country 4WD about 4 months ago from Watson Chevrolet in Tucson Arizona. Within week of driving the truck I began noticing some pretty strange sporadic things happening. I started video taping the issues when I could to document what was happening. Ticking noise coming from the engine when cold starting, sporadically have hourglass on stereo saying “loading” it would continue until the engine was turned off and back on then it was OK. “Park Assist” Error message sporadically popping up while driving down the road, Horn honking (three short honks) for no reason while sitting in traffic at a red light. At 900 miles I reached out to the dealer and told them these concerns and issues I was experiencing. The service manager explain to me “the truck has a lot of technology and it just needs to learn your driving habits, you just need to keep driving it” At 11,000 and 3 months after purchasing I get the loud lifter noise, “Service parking brake”message, “steering assist reduced” message, “Service ESC light” and “check engine light” I drove it into the other dealership located in Tucson (O’Reilly Chevrolet), they keep the truck for about three weeks and “replace lifters on one bank and 1 bent push rod” and tell me that they couldn’t duplicate any of the other issues however they did a firmware upgrade and everything should be fine. One week after getting the truck back (11500 miles) I get another check engine light, Keep in mind I can still hear the lifters ticking when starting it first thing in the morning. I take back to the dealer after a week of a being in the shop, They tell me “The check engine light was because there was multiple cylinder misfire and it was the opposite bank from the lifters they replaced” however they can’t duplicate the problem so there’s nothing they can do. They admitted that the computer had logged over 200 misfires on one cylinder and that’s what made the check engine light turned on, then they go on to tell me they can’t duplicate the problem so there’s nothing they can do. I asked them about the ticking noise when starting and the tell me “that’s normal, it’s not lifter noise you’re hearing, it’s the new technology fuel pumps GM is using that’s making that noise” Other issue I have had is the rotors on all four wheels at times will turn blue and discolored as if the brakes and her have been completely overheated. But it’s not the entire rotor It’s only the center inch of all rotors. The inside edge and outside edges look normal. I have a purchased over 11 band new (Ford, Chevy, Dodge, Toyota) Trucks in the past 30 years this is by far the worst freaking vehicle I have ever purchased.
  2. 2015 Silverado 1500 This weekend I changed my rear rotors. It was a simple swap, old ones off, new ones on. The next morning I went to start the truck and barely got it to turn over and the DIC threw a message up saying service trailer brake system. My radio also completely reset and when I press on my brakes all lights dim. Any suggestions in what this could be?
  3. If yes, at how many miles and which ones did you go with? Did you also get new rotors? If yes, which ones did you go with? I'm at 38,000 miles and approaching 45,000-50,000 miles very soon, this is typically when I change my brake pads/rotors, being this is the first truck i've ever owned brand new, i'm a little concerned about brake pad brands and rotors.. Most of my driving is highway, maybe 80hwy/20city
  4. I changed the brakes and rotors out on my 14 Silverado crew cab about a month ago go to the brakes squeaking non stop, and a visible gouge on the driver side rotor. The pads still had about 60% on them but changed them out anyway, here I am a month later and the same damn squeaking is back, there is no visible sign of anything dragging the rotor but holy hell is it annoying. Anyone had this issue?
  5. New member here. I'm 17 and graduated from my school's Automotive program three weeks ago. I thought this meant I was knowledgeable enough to save my parents some money by replacing the front brake pads, rotors, axles, and bearings on their 2000 Yukon XL 2500 for them. Everything went relatively smoothly aside from a rusted-on bearing hub bolt that needed to be sawed off and replaced. After putting the tire back on, I gave the wheel a spin and a soft but noticeable grinding noise emanated from the wheel assembly. I tried the tire on the other side and the same thing happened. I looked up the problem and most people said to drive the car normally and the noise would go away after a mile or so. I drove the car 16.2 miles to my high school and back (braking hard three or four times) but the noise didn't go away. I invited an Autotech classmate over to take a look. We tried rebuilding the caliper pistons. Turns out the dust shield isn't replaceable, and I had to buy a new caliper for the passenger side. The noise didn't go away after replacing the caliper either. Any advice for a girl who's out of ideas? Thank you, Daughter-of-a-Yukon-Owner
  6. So I've been pretty un-happy with the factory brake feel for a while now. I don't like the initial bite and I think they require allot of heat to really get good feed-back from them. So I decided to upgrade to Hawk HPS Front and Rear pads along with the Hawk HUS8657 Quiet Slot Front Rotors. I've used Hawk pads previously in my Auto X car and have nothing but good things to say about them, hopefully these will also be the case. Normally I would of left the O.E rotors but Hawk advertises improved initial bite and Amazon is selling these at pretty much 50% off. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004D2UKPG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 I'll be installing these in a few days and I'll give a good comparison of the new setup.
  7. My front end on driver side just started creaking. Mainly when in reverse or turning slow. What can cause this? My fluids are good and full.
  8. I haven't done much repair work since I was a kid, so I've been doing some things on my own lately, trying to become a little more self-reliant with my truck. Last night I replaced my front hub bearing assembly but in the reassembly process I made a mistake with the brakes. I'm not sure exactly what I did. . On my test drive around the block the brakes started dragging. I pulled the wheel off and found that the inside brake pad was cocked and the ear had made contact with the rotor. It left a rough ring about 3/8" wide around the rotor. I can't discern any depth to the ring. To my touch it just feels rough. I may not have fully reset the caliper pistons. I might have twisted the brake pad when I put it on. I really don't know. I have a few questions: 1) What did I do wrong? 2) Have I ruined the rotor? And if so, do I need to get it resurfaced or replaced?
  9. Hello All, At approximately 38000 Miles I changed the front brakes on my Silverado. I installed Raybestos R-300 Performance Rotors (http://www.raybestosbrakes.com/magnoliaPublic/home/products/rotors/r-300-performance-rotors.html) and Advanced Technology Brake Pads (http://www.raybestosbrakes.com/magnoliaPublic/home/products/brake-pads/advanced-technology-disc-brake-pads.html). Now at 70000 Miles I started hearing the wear indicator on the brake pads go off so I decided to investigate. This is what I found: As you can see, the pad was only making contact with about 50% of the Inboard rotor surface. It appears that the pad was worn away in the area where is was not making contact. Although the front left was more severely worn, the front right has the same exact issue. The Outboard pads had less wear and the surface contact appears normal. I inspected the caliper, pad frame and clips for anything abnormal. Other that some surface rust, all looked OK. The Calipers were moving freely on the pins (which were still well greased) and the pads did not appear to be sticking at all on the frame clips. The pistons pushed back into the calipers easily and do not appear to be sticking. Up until the squeal of the wear indicator on the inboard pads, braking force felt adequate (Apparently it was not with only 75% of the pads touching the rotors) I replaced the rotors/pads/clips/pin bellows with new and purged/bled the system. All normal. I plan to contact Raybestos for their opinion on what might have caused this. I am disappointed with the lack of longevity I got from these brakes; poor value for the money spent. Have any of you experienced this abnormal wear? Regards, Keith
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