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Drives

Found 8 results

  1. Hey, I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 L. A few weeks ago I slammed on my horn too hard and the horn wouldn't stop until I took the fuse out. If I put the fuse back in, the horn blows continuously so I have taken the fuse back out but now I can't use the horn. I would like to try and fix the issue myself instead of bringing it into a dealership but can't find any videos or tutorials on how to fix the horn button switch which I think is the issue. If anyone has any feedback, please I'd appreciate something because I am not having much luck on my end. Thanks,
  2. I purchased a 2021 Silverado Crew Cab High Country 4WD about 4 months ago from Watson Chevrolet in Tucson Arizona. Within week of driving the truck I began noticing some pretty strange sporadic things happening. I started video taping the issues when I could to document what was happening. Ticking noise coming from the engine when cold starting, sporadically have hourglass on stereo saying “loading” it would continue until the engine was turned off and back on then it was OK. “Park Assist” Error message sporadically popping up while driving down the road, Horn honking (three short honks) for no reason while sitting in traffic at a red light. At 900 miles I reached out to the dealer and told them these concerns and issues I was experiencing. The service manager explain to me “the truck has a lot of technology and it just needs to learn your driving habits, you just need to keep driving it” At 11,000 and 3 months after purchasing I get the loud lifter noise, “Service parking brake”message, “steering assist reduced” message, “Service ESC light” and “check engine light” I drove it into the other dealership located in Tucson (O’Reilly Chevrolet), they keep the truck for about three weeks and “replace lifters on one bank and 1 bent push rod” and tell me that they couldn’t duplicate any of the other issues however they did a firmware upgrade and everything should be fine. One week after getting the truck back (11500 miles) I get another check engine light, Keep in mind I can still hear the lifters ticking when starting it first thing in the morning. I take back to the dealer after a week of a being in the shop, They tell me “The check engine light was because there was multiple cylinder misfire and it was the opposite bank from the lifters they replaced” however they can’t duplicate the problem so there’s nothing they can do. They admitted that the computer had logged over 200 misfires on one cylinder and that’s what made the check engine light turned on, then they go on to tell me they can’t duplicate the problem so there’s nothing they can do. I asked them about the ticking noise when starting and the tell me “that’s normal, it’s not lifter noise you’re hearing, it’s the new technology fuel pumps GM is using that’s making that noise” Other issue I have had is the rotors on all four wheels at times will turn blue and discolored as if the brakes and her have been completely overheated. But it’s not the entire rotor It’s only the center inch of all rotors. The inside edge and outside edges look normal. I have a purchased over 11 band new (Ford, Chevy, Dodge, Toyota) Trucks in the past 30 years this is by far the worst freaking vehicle I have ever purchased.
  3. I had my 6.6 Duramaxx overhauled and the “mechanic” has completely screwed up my truck. So my major problem now is the horn has stopped working. I’ve checked all fuses, relay, power to horns, replaced horns, cleaned connection between the horn contact, even soldered the end to ensure good connection. The best I can figure is the ground going to the steering wheel is bad. I read on one of these forums that someone used a 12ga wire and ran a new ground to the steering wheel. Does anyone have any suggestions on the best and quickest way to determine if this will work and how to run it?
  4. Anyone have a unique or nice sounding horn that will just plug and play? I see them online but most do not include a sound file so you can hear them. UGH WW
  5. Hello All, I own a 2010 Silverado and have recently starting having this issue. At first, I've heard a spinning noise every time I pressed the gas pedal on my truck. The spinning noise has since went away, but now every time I turn the key to my ignition and press the brake pedal, the horn goes off. This horn only goes off once for a few seconds and after I press the brake again and switch to drive the truck works fine. Also, I have noticed when I insert the key the dashboard lights come on quicker and even if I pull my key out the ignition, the truck will stay on until I press the brake.
  6. I just installed a Kleinn air horn/ onboard air system part number GM1500-230 on my 2016 Silverado 1500 with a ProComp 6” lift. Check out the install video and pictures.
  7. Hi, new member here! I've read a lot of helpful posts on this site and decided to join. It appears that by means of motor vehicles, some force in the cosmos is hell-bent on driving me insane, as every ridiculously simple process must be infinitely difficult and dreadful. Today's ridiculousness involves programing a key fob in my 2006 Silverado Z71 4x4. I've had the truck a couple weeks and it came with no key fobs. I decided to buy 2 from Amazon after noticing the truck has the AU0 RPO code, as well as power unlocks/windows, and no key cylinder on the passenger door. I've read the process online, watched youtube videos, yet when I try I am unsuccessful, and can't find anything related to the issue I am having. So here's the process: -key out, door open, sitting in driver seat- -shut door, insert key. Push and hold unlock, turn on-off-on-off (I've also tried on-acc-on-acc per some advice from another post on this forum). The moment the key passes the "ACC" point on the ignition cylinder the 2nd time, the doors locks cycle, and I release my finger from the unlock (exactly the same as every video I've seen on YouTube". The issue is, about 2-3 seconds after the door locks cycle and I've released my finger from the unlock button, the door locks will automatically cycle a 2nd time, and the horn will beep once. No matter how long I hold the lock and unlock button on the remotes, there is no response from the truck and the fobs will not work. Interestingly enough, no matter how carefully I perform the sequence or even if I'm trying to botch it, I get the exact same results. The door locks will cycle normally, then 2-3 seconds later cycle again and beep. This happens whether the driver door is open, or shut, or even if I have the truck on before starting the process. If I press the unlock-lock in the truck a million times after I release my finger, or if I just keep holding, no matter how many times I've tried releasing the unlock at different times, if I pour gasoline all over the driver door and set it on fire, drive it into the lake and perform it underwater holding my breath, it doesn't matter and I get the same response from the truck. No check engine lights, no security light issues, no abs lights, nothing else at all that suggests there's any wiring issues with the truck, everything works as it should. I have found one other post on the entire interwebz with someone having the same issue of the door locks cycling a 2nd time and the beep, but no helpful responses or solutions. So, has anyone ran into this issue before or have any advice? I'll be posting a video on youtube and adding the link later. Picture of RPO sticker attached. Thanks!
  8. Hello new to this so bare with me. I have a 2010 silverado and i have an issue with the horn. It sounds like it is dying. If you have hit a puddle before and sounded the horn you probably know the sound. In the past i would just hold down horn and it would clear out after about 20 to 30 seconds and it sounded fine. Well it is still like this. I havent hit ant puddle and got water in it. When i hit the lock button it may make a small noise or nothing at all. Fuse is fine. Is it possible I have to replace the horns themselves? If anyone has had this issue or knows anything please help. Thank you.
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