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Showing results for tags 'fluid'.
Found 13 results
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Hi everyone, I’m new to this forum and I just want to get a good idea of how many miles everyone’s getting out of there 14-18 5.3’s / 6L80 combos and what type of maintenance y’all are doing to get there. I have 90,****** now on my 2016. I follow my service schedule to a T. Trans fluid and filter every 22,500 and engine oil every 4000. What’s everyone else do to get there trucks up to high mileage -
I am about to change the rear differential fluid on my 2016 Silverado. I went to the dealer to get the fluid (75W-85 special new fluid, supposedly "High Efficiency"). The dealer was unable to give me the volume spec for the fluid to fill it back up. I have seen both 2 liters and 2.6 liters required. Seeing as to how the fluid costs $22 a liter from the dealer, I don't want to buy 3 liters if I only need 2. Can anyone help clear this up/set me straight??? -
I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 4x4 5.3l V8 with the 8 speed transmission. I already flushed out my transmission and filled it back up with the Mobil 1™ Synthetic LV ATF HP blue label. The question is, do i also use the HP fluid for my transfer case? Or do i need to use just a standard ATF fluid instead. I cant seem to find a straight answer on this. The owners manual states to use DEXRON®-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid. Would using regular ATF in the transfer case and HP ATF in the transmission cause any issues? Thanks in advance! -
My 2016 Sierra 2500HD has 176,000 miles on it already and recently started eating parts. The latest part to fail was the reductant tank heater (DEF Heater). Upon cold start the check engine light came on with code P21DD. After a little reading I learned that this can result in “Limp Mode”. I was in the middle of nowhere in Northern Wyoming. Not cool! I drove down to Denver and replaced it that week. I shot this video of the repair..... -
Since I started working with the company I'm currently associated since last April I've had a 2016 Silverado. Every now and then the fluid comes out but 98-99% of the time it doesn't. When I took it into the dealership to get some basic work done on it I had them check it and of course it worked. They said it was probably frozen, which makes sense, but it also happened a lot during the summer. The washer fluid has been topped off and it still isn't working. Any ideas? Thank you! -
Hey guys looking for all the advice I can get. I have done a fair bit of research already. However, I am going to change the transmission fluid in my 2007 (New Body) Silverado. If it matters it is a 4.8 V8, 4x4, regular cab and long bed. 1.) I do not know exactly what filter kit I need. I went by Advanced Auto Parts and the guy told me you usually count the bolts on the pan but he said for this specific model there are two different ones. I called General Motors and talked to what I am guessing is a foreigner that lives in another country. I gave him my VIN and he could not tell me what I needed to know. Does anyone happen to know which one I need? 2.) My truck has 95,000 on it and to be honest he oil does not look good. When I pull the dipstick out and wipe it off it is pretty black/burnt but there is definitely still a little red to it. I was told that if it was in really bad shape not to change it because I know I can risk damage. I know this is true but not sure if it has been neglected to that point. It is sort of weird that I can still see red meaning someone might have dropped the pan at one point and added oil in. I bought the truck used. To try and keep this short I will say I am pretty well researched from YouTube and other forums. However, any advice from people that have a similar truck to mine would be greatly appreciated. For instance, I know that I am going to have to drop the exhaust to remove the pan. Just so you guys know I plan to remove the transmission in line to the radiator and let it pump out as much as it wants. After it stops I am going to put it back together, drop the exhaust, drop the pan, replace the filter and gasket, then put it back together. Also when I go to get a plastic hose to guide the old oil out does anyone know what size hose is a good fit for my truck? Also where can I buy it, my local auto parts store? I appreciate any help in advance.
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I changed my front differential and transfer case fluid the other day and I was surprised at how many shavings that were in there. I did it at 3K in order to put my favorite fluids in there. I used Liqui Moly Full Synthetic 75W-90 in the front and Top Tec 1800 (Dexron-VI equivalent) in the transfer case. Most people wouldn't really be doing this as early as I am, but I was bored and my buddy had the differential in his Silvy with 15k on it lock up because the factory didn't fill it enough! So anyway, to my surprise, there were quite a few filings on there, much more than I would expect with a truck with 3k on it. Nothing big on there (no chunks), but the magnet was definitely full on the transfer case. The front differential (which doesn't get exercised much) had little on it. I'll be doing the rear differential when the extra fluid shows up since I underestimated! Edit: I forgot to mention, I also did this because I bought it new and wanted to get any break-in shavings and manufacturing oils out of there.
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Hey guys I am planning to change the transmission fluid on my 2007 Silverado (New Body) 4.8 4x4 here soon. My muffler recently wore a hole into it and rusted out a piece of the exhaust. Therefore, I am planning on replacing my entire system with this one from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00503PU70/?coliid=I365UW575WJD1C&colid=1GQFQXGWZEWEY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Anyway I have done some research and it looks like the exhaust system prevents the transmission pan from being dropped completely. For this reason, I would like to change my transmission fluid and filter while I am changing out the exhaust. It seems like it is going to save me a world of trouble. Also I am coming up on 95,000 miles and almost positive it has never been changed before. However, there are a lot of opinions on both the right way of doing this and the wrong way. I see a lot of people on YouTube removing the metal line from the front of the transmission radiator and letting the old fluid drain out that way while adding in new fluid. Then they stop when they see new fluid being pulled into the container and replace the filter then go on with life. I have heard other people say that this is gambling with your transmission and should not be done. Basically any advice and opinions would be greatly appreciated. I also heard to not get sucked into "fancy labels" when it comes to new fluid either. My local guy said you want to replace the fluid with exactly the same thing that is in there right now as it was not designed for anything else. I just looked in the manual and it says that it is DEXRON VI so probably going to go with this from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-9395-Dexron-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B01EKMGG92/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526257467&sr=8-2&keywords=dexron+vi+automatic+transmission+fluid Let me know if you guys need anymore information. Any advice and direction you guys can give would be awesome.
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Just wanted to relay a story in case anyone runs into this issue. Well, a couple weeks ago I did a simple pan drop, filter change, and added 6 quarts of Amsoil Signature series fluid. The truck was shifting really smooth and running great for about 3-4 days. After that I noticed a shudder at 20-30 mphs. Nothing major and it felt like it was coming from the back of the truck, so I assumed it was the rear wheels needing balancing. After more driving of the truck I slowly realized the shudder was likely due to the torque converter. I had bought 3.5 gallons of amsoil fluid and had planned to disconnect the trans line and pump out old fluid and add new. I finally got around to doing that yesterday and drove the truck about 10 miles or so and have now noticed the shudder is pretty much gone. The fluid was extremely dirty but didn't smell burned and my truck is a 2014 with only 46k. For only 46k I felt like the fluid was way too dirty but I didn't feel the pan had an excess amount of metal shavings in it. I have never had a shudder develop after a simple fluid change but wanted to share this with anyone in case it happens. If the shudder doesn't completely go away I may end up (unfortunately) buy another gallon of fluid and exchange it out. However so far it seems like the shudder is gone or very minimal. -
I drained and replaced half of my brake fluid, I replaced the fluid and did everything right....except I couldn't budge BOTH rear drain plugs and rounded the bleeder valves. So I didn't get all of the fluid replaced for fear of not being able to tighten the bleeder valves back on. I'll need to vise grip them of now, but need to replace them with new bleeders. -
The owners manual on my 2011 Silverado 1500 4X4 is a bit confusing on the topic of lubricants to use in front and rear drive axles (see attached photo below from manual). It appears that all rear axles for that year call for 75W-90 synthetic axle lube, but it is not clear about what is called for in the front axle. The first line calls for 80W-90 lube in 1500 series, four-wheel drive, then the second line calls for synthetic 75W-90 lube in all series, but doesn't reference four-wheel drive. But that second line has to be referring to a 4X4 front axle because if it was a 4X2 truck it wouldn't have a differential in the front axle and therefore wouldn't need diff lube. Thoughts? Thanks!
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I have a 2008 Silverado Crew Cab LTZ 6.0L engine, just broke 63k miles. Recently when I "floor" it and am in high rpms above 4800 there is a burning smell & actual rattling coming from either the engine or transmission. I cant quite put my finger on it, trying to get an idea of what it could be before going to a mechanic. At about 35000 miles they had to rebuild my trans because some of the gears got tore up & lost their bites, I use to drive it very hard and fast, but since then I do not.
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Hi folks new to the site if I'm misposted please let me know and I'll try again. So to start with I'm running a '91 chevy suburban 2500 4x4 with the 350 motor. The problems I'm encountering are a follows, with descriptions. 1. I have a coolant leak but I'm not sure where it is coming from, I notice the coolant around my starter, but no problems with the starter itself. Also that is the only place I have seen the fluid. 2. My transmission leaks like a siv I have replaced the pan gasket and filter but to no avail. I notice the fluid everywhere around the trans on the cross member down the frame rails. That's about it for my leaks. And lastly 3. My steering wheel is upside down! How do I fix that? My alignment sit 180* out but the wheel is. Any help on any of my problems would be greatly appreciated thank you all.
