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Drives

Found 14 results

  1. I have less than 300 miles on my 2020 GMC Sierra 2500HD. I have utilized the remote start feature on my fob 3 times so far. Each time, upon entering the vehicle, I place my foot on the brake and push the start button to bring it up to life. Everything works fine, with the exception of the infotainment screen. It remains black, with the exception of displaying the rear camera view when I back out my driveway. Once back in drive, it goes back to black. I have to park the vehicle, turn it off, and then re-start using the vehicles start button to bring the display back on. Anybody else having this issue?
  2. My 2016 Sierra 2500HD has 176,000 miles on it already and recently started eating parts. The latest part to fail was the reductant tank heater (DEF Heater). Upon cold start the check engine light came on with code P21DD. After a little reading I learned that this can result in “Limp Mode”. I was in the middle of nowhere in Northern Wyoming. Not cool! I drove down to Denver and replaced it that week. I shot this video of the repair.....
  3. 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT 5.3 Vortec. 2WD. I've got a head scratcher here. So filling up the other day, I went to start the truck, and acted like it didn't have any fuel to start. Either that or fouled plugs. Took a few tries and started hard, idled rough for about a minute and then was running good. It's been cooler outside as its winter, roughly in the 20s and 30s. But the truck was already at operating temperature. It's happened twice now after I've filled up and no other time does it do it. Few things: Around 3 weeks ago I forgot to replace the gas cap, lost it on the road. Didn't replace it until the first time it started hard. I've recently changed the oil. Along with that I used a lucas oil additive made for variable valve timing. I also used a fuel treatment for carbon deposits. After looking with my telescope camera, it did its job. Now I did get 2 codes. P0171 and P0174. Bank 1 and Bank 2 Too Lean. Definitely running on the lean side. After this last hard start, I had my scanner hooked up reading the live data, Fuel Trim (Lngshft1 and Shrtshft1; Lngshft2 and Shrtshft2) was low. Lngshft1 and ShrtShft Bank 1 showed fuel trim at start up was -10.4% on Shrtshft1 and -25.6% on Lngshft1. Running very lean on bank 1, and bank 2 was also running lean. I did clean the MAF sensor, replaced the air filter. Check for vaccum leak for about an hour and could not find one. Fuel pump is good, runs just fine. Got out the multimeter and everything seems to check out. I'm thinking its possibly the fuel filter, maybe a bad MAF, purge valve, or O2 sensor. I've been researching for a few days and looking over the truck but cant figure it out. Rather than going through the task of replacing everything and hoping it works, I figured I'd see if anyone else and had similar problem and found the solution. It runs great any other time, MAF showing correct numbers, same with Fuel Trim showing normal numbers. It's only when I fill up. Maybe a fuel pressure issue somewhere.
  4. Hey Techs, I own a GMC Sierra 1500 2009, I don't have a remote start feature on my FOB. In my manual it states "If your vechile does not have the remote vechile start feature, it may have the remote start ready feature" If I do, is it possbile buying just the FOB with the start feature and getting a technician to program it for me? Or even doing it myself? I know there's a option on my dash when I skim through my odometer, tachometer, etc. theres something that I remember seeing called remote key. Maybe a way to program the remote starter? If not does anyone know how much a GM technition charge for a factory remote starter? Thanks.
  5. I recently had a problem with my 2017 Denali not starting after it sat for a couple of days and received some suggestions from several of you. To recap, the starter would do nothing when the ignition was turned to the start position but it would start by using the remote start for about a month and that quit working too. The dealership didn’t even want to try to find the problem since it only had the problem from time to time and wouldn’t give me a vehicle to drive so they could keep it for a couple days and see if it would do it for them, so I carried it to the local Chevy dealership and they first replaced the battery under warranty and the truck failed to start the next morning. I had learned that I could hook the battery charger to the battery and turn it to 250 amps and the truck would start every time I had the problem. I carried it back to the Chevy dealership and they gave me a loaner and when my truck failed to start they tracked the problem to a corroded start relay in the fuse box on the drivers side under the hood. They replaced the entire fuse box and relay. Thankfully I have had no problem since!
  6. I think I might have an injector issue. I'll first give the symptoms and what I've done to diagnose it, but the one thing I cannot find on here or the interwebs is how to replace the fuel injectors on my L86 engine. I understand it's a GDI engine and not as simple as a port fuel injection engine, but I figured there'd be something out there...no go. I'm pretty sure I've read every thread on here about cold start/injector issues, but pardon me if I state something that's already been said. Not looking to rehash any other threads, just get thoughts on my situation and others experience with replacing these GDI injectors. My truck is a 2016 GMC Sierra Denali, 6.2L, 8 speed, 75k miles. Only run 93 octane fuel and all routine maintenance is completed on-time or early by me. Only use top end recommended products in all maintenance. Symptoms/Diagnosis My issue is only a cold start issue and it's intermittent, but now happening more frequently. It drives fine with full-power and has no other issues. The cold start issue first came up around 70k miles when I did an auto-start in my driveway. I could hear the truck struggling to keep rpm's, it sounded like it was barely chugging along. I opened the door and looked at the rpm's and they were bouncing like crazy. Truck stalled out and threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire (P0303). I cleared it and it started up perfectly. I chalked it up to it needing spark plugs/wires replaced (had original OEM still in). I did so the next weekend with the OEM ACDELCO iridium plugs and Taylor 10MM racing wires (much better than stock). She cold started flawlessly for the next 5k miles and the issue was long gone in my mind. Fast forward about 3 weeks ago when it did it again after sitting in my work parking lot all day. The code this time was P0106 (MAP Pressure Sensor reading issue). I installed a CAI system (aFe Power Momentum GT) around 72k miles, so I figured maybe I accidentally messed up the MAF sensor in the install (even though it was fine for 3k miles). So I replaced the MAF sensor. Was fine until a week ago, when it had another rough cold start but didn't throw a code. I assumed it was the P0106 code again so I replaced the MAP sensor this time. Good for another week and now it's had 2 rough starts this week and stalled once right after starting, so getting progressively worse. This time it threw the P0303 code again. I happen to be borrowing a tech tool and did a diagnostics check on the cylinders and it showed cylinder 3 has had 699 misfires, the next highest was 19 (both cylinders 6 and 8). I also checked the code history on the ECM and it showed P0106 (map sensor pressure fault), P0300 (multiple misfires), and P050D (cold start rough idle). I read the cold start rough idle can also mean coolant is leaking into the oil and/or through the head. I have not noticed my coolant running low, regardless I change my oil and just did it as recently as last weekend, but it's never looked milky or smelled like coolant. I also checked all the head bolts and around the head gaskets - didn't see any coolant. Ruling everything out to this point, all I'm left with is bad seals on injector 3 that's allowing leak back during initial engine start - causing the misfires on cylinder 3. What's strange is that about 20 seconds after start-up the idle evens out and drives smoothly the entire time. It's only a rough cold start intermittently (getting more frequent), but no other issues. Am I missing anything? How-to on replacing GDI fuel injectors? I've read how costly it is for a shop to change out these GDI fuel injectors so I was hoping to do this on my own. I do 90% of my repairs/maintenance - with exceptions to major work. This is the first GDI engine I've owned so I don't want to jump into something and cause more damage - but I feel confident I can learn and do it right. Are there any instructions/how-to's on doing this job? From what I understand, with a GDI engine the pressure is much greater in the fuel lines so it's important to properly relieve the pressure. Also, I've read that I may need to replace the fuel injector rails/lines when I replace any injectors due to the stainless steel being so soft that it will leak in no time after replacing only the injectors. I don't mind spending money on the right tools if it'll save me money in the long run. Thoughts on doing the job myself? PS - I've searched YouTube and Google for ANY instructions (even for other GDI engines) and have found nothing on how to bleed the fuel pressure, just videos about putting on new injector gaskets.
  7. I apologize if this is the wrong forum but I didn't see a forum for my year model. I need some experienced help if possible. I have a 2009 Yukon XL 6.0L, low millage.. No codes have been thrown. Battery and alternator are good. The key is a normal key I think, no RFID stuff. As normal, when you stick the key in the switch it chimes and the display and gauges come on when the switch is turned.. then it cranks. I have a progressing issue where I insert and turn the key that nothing happens...no chime, no gauges light up, no crank. almost like it has no battery... After several turns of the key everything comes to life and it cranks fine. Here are a few more symptoms. I have seen the touch screen radio display flicker while driving... Another time I turned to crank, the starter engaged, and it instantly died a second later like you pulled a plug. Also normally, when the switch is cut off the radio plays a little longer until the door is opened, the interior lights come on, and the headlights stay on for a few minutes. When I parked last night and cut the switch off, the radio just died, the headlights cut off, and the interior lights did not cut on when I opened the door. I even pressed on the remote unlock / lock keys, rear access open.. nothing. It was like the battery was unplugged. I got back in, put the key in the switch and nothing.. About 2 minutes later I tried again and it cranked up as if nothing happened. The remote control worked as well as everything else. I thought it may be the switch, but when I switch the vehicle off the interior lights wont work, the remote quit, inside lock buttons quit..etc... Kinda ruled the switch out maybe? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to start buying random parts to try and fix.. Thank you for your time..
  8. I just purchased my second Chevy Colorado and I am running into an issue. The remote start won't work. The doors lock, when I hold down the remote start button the lights flash but nothing else. No engine light. Hood is closed tight. Not in valet mode batteries good. I took it to the dealer today and after 3 hours of waiting they said it was probably the main computer. Granted this is with them saying they haven't even looked at it yet. This service department has its own issues. They are wanting to have me bring it back later for diagnostics and maybe 5-7 days if it needs a new CPU. Is their any thoughts on how this could be a simple thing I can look at before wasting more of my time with the service department?
  9. hey guys i have a 2017 black out edition silverado wt and it didnt come with remote start or at least it wasnt activated? so im just wondering how i would go about getting it activated and what not let me know guys thanks! also where would i get a steering with volume control and how would that be installed just at audio place or what?
  10. Hello everyone, I have had a low voltage reading for awhile now(4000+ miles), but today My truck would not start. I tried a jumpstart, which brought the voltage up to 14v from 12v, but still nothing, no solenoid click at all. When i left work, it started fine. I made a couple of stops on the way home, at the first i noticed the starter running slower than normal. At the second stop, is where it died. I towed it home, and of course once home, it started right up. I Managed to recreate this problem. I did some light offroading to get the motor really hot and noticed that while cold, i have a solid 14v, but that gradually drops as the the truck warms up to slightly under 12v. The alternator and battery have been recently tested and passed, the battery is new. Also, it is very hot here in Tucson (110 degrees today). I have two other posts on here about my alternator and a vapor lock issue, dont know if they are also related to this problem. Thank you. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/201919-bad-alternator-94-yukon/ http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/202082-can-a-tbi-vapor-lock/
  11. Hey guys, So over the weekend I put a new (to me) transmission in my truck (2003 silverado 1500) upon finishing the job I went to start it up to start pumping the new fluid through, but the truck will not turn over. All lights, radio, ect.. come on, but the truck will not turn over. Also, even after I have pulled the key out, the front marker lights, rear running lights, and dash lights all will not shut off. There is a high pitched ringing coming from the engine compartment, which, along with the lights shuts off when I pull the fuse for "ECM B". Initially I thought this was the Park-Neutral safety switch, which was cracked while we were installing it. The only idea I have left is that there is a small wire that comes out of the harness and attaches to the back of the engine right behind the passenger side cylinder head that was broken while installing the dipstick, I cannot find any information about what this wire is for or where it is supposed to be attached. ANY help would be much appreciated!!!
  12. Of course my first post would be a trouble shooting question right. So ive got a 97 5.7 vortec, new starter, alternator, fuel pump and filter. a while back i started having issues getting my truck to start if the engine was warm and i had turned it off. usually quick trips to the store were ok but as soon as my engine gets to temperature it wont start. ideas of where to start looking.
  13. I have a 2007 V8 4.8 L Chevy Silverado 1500 LT and I turn the key to start it and sometimes nothing happens at all like the battery is dead (no dash lights, no anything). I try a few more times and nothing. Then I get back in it an hour later and it starts right up. Replaced Starter, battery is not an issue and problem still remains. Can anyone help?
  14. Hi, this is my first post, and my problem is that my chevy express van 2005 5.3 vortec idles low RPM at cold start, about 600 RPM, it doesn,t stall but shakes a little. I have to step in the gas until it warms. Hope you can help me with some ideas.
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