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Found 7 results

  1. Please help can not find where this go or what the wires go to 2000 gmc 1500 5.3
  2. Got my full console from Ebay used in like new condition. I did alot of research to figure out how to wire it so all the functions would work. I.e. wireless phone charger and usb/ cigarette liter ports for the rear passenger. I have a currently have a 22 2.7l Custom that doesn't have the required connection under the front passenger seat. After hours of looking at schematics and testing wires, I managed to hard wire my center console to the fuse box on the passenger side. Wire on the CC harness to Fuse box Both Red/white to F5 (Battery positive) Violet to F20 (Accessory on) Violet/yellow to F23 (Accessory on) BOTH Black to Ground below the Fuse box. The only section I wasn't able to get working yet is the USB in the middle of the console (the one with the map SD card). This one I believe needs to be connected to the radio that has the built in navigation. (once I get one I'll update this post.
  3. Hey all, I recently purchased a couple shallow mount subs, a subthump box, and an amp/wiring kit for my 2015 GMC Sierra SLE. I also purchased this line output converter to get the signal to the amp from the stock wiring. I searched for "line output converter" and literally nothing came up on the forum, so i'm curious if anyone knows the easiest place to tap into to get the subwoofer signal to the amp? I'd greatly appreciate any help! My truck is a 2015 GMC Sierra SLE, does NOT have the Bose factory system. PAC LP7-2: http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=1188 Gear i'm adding: 2x Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-12 1x Power Acoustik EG1-2500D -- wired to 2 ohms, about 800w RMS total subthump dual 12" box w/ amp rack space Thanks! Captain
  4. Recently replaced plugs and wires in 2004 Chevy Silverado Z71. It now idles very rough almost to the point of stalling and misfiring. I found a forum somewhere that mentioned wrong plugs but now can't find it to show the hubby. Any help is appreciated! Love these forums!
  5. Not sure if this is the right forum to ask for help on this issue but i recently bought & took my truck in for an out of province inspection in canada which is a 2 1/2 hour run down of the vehicle. with only 10 days to fix what has failed or repay and do the whole inspection again so im a rush to fix this truck or im out another 230$, Anyway i just reinstalled and new tumbler which failed, but i also need to have the vehicle free of ANY pcm codes. I failed for pcm code 2961( key in ignition circuit malfunction) as well. I believe the old owner bypassed something in the security with the electrical wires close to the ignition switch. he also tore up the ignition tumbler housing. Heres a few pictures of what the wires look like underneath. Not sure what its supposed to look like, Im a complete novice when it comes to electrical so any help is appreciated
  6. I was recently wiring an aftermarket switch and the terminals got bent and the positive and ground leads made contact and after several sparks the visor lights went out, left brake light and blinker will not function, and left side windows (front and back) stopped working. There’s no power getting to it at all. Also when it’s dark and the auto sensor turns the lights on, when I apply the brake the instrument cluster backlight cuts off and lights up again when i let off the brake. Total electrical screw up and i found out that this is causing a serious issue. Started smelling burning rubber and metal both through the air vents and outside the truck while standing by it. I later found out it’s shorting and getting severely hot around the right side of the mega fuse connected to the battery. So bad that it’s melted the plastic on the fuse and the fuse mount, rubber around the ends of the wire is melted and the bolts have become brittle. I’ve since replaced the fuse, need to replace the fuse mount. Still need to find where the ground is. Here’s the tricky part, tested the continuity of all fuses inside the cab and under the hood. MOST fuses in the cab ARE NOT even getting power, yet some are. None of the fuses are burnt or blown in both locations. Under the hood, some are not getting power but most are. I’m not savvy enough to know what the issue is but my thoughts are the problem lies between the battery and the fuse boxes. Maybe a burnt wire causing the ground? Bad wires? I have no clue...can anyone help? Any ideas, solutions, has anyone dealt with this? Also the lock and unlock will not work, yet you can hear the relay clicking when you press the button on the front doors and on the key fob. The lights blink, and even the alarm sounds if a door is opened but they do not lock or unlock. Thanks in advance! P.S. this is causing the engine to cut off due to the wires connected to the mega fuse losing contact. As i drive, with enough rattle they lose contact, and I lose power and eventually the engine cuts off. I have to jump it off constantly and pray that I make it where i’m going. It rattles back in contact and then back out. So I need to fix this quick, it’s killing my battery and straining my alternator.
  7. Hi Guys, I'm about to replace my spark plugs and wires. Keeping it OEM of course. I really don't wanna screw up the ordering as no auto store in my country has the wires. I already got the plugs but will order the wires and 758EE is what I've read is the correct wires. How do I know what coils I have? 2015 Silverado HC, 5.3 (non flex)
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