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I did a bunch of searching and there really isn't too much information on the JL SB-GM-SLVCC4-12TW3 Stealthbox. It would appear that the majority of people that do install subwoofers have opted for the Kicker "factory" option. While the Kicker certainly is an upgrade to the lack of bass within our trucks, it still did not produce the amount of bass that I was use to and wanted in my truck. Granted the price tag on the stealthbox may be the main reason why it isn't a popular option and why there is little to no information on it. According to JL Audio "The Hard Data: Contains two 12TW3-D8 subwoofers in a down-firing sealed enclosure. 800 watt power handling. Wired for a 2 ohm load. Installs under rear seat. Will not affect the folding of the rear seat or rear leg room." The fiberglass subwoofer enclosure contains 2 - 12' shallow mount TW3 subwoofers. They produce an incredible amount of bass that, in my opinion, blows the kicker option out of the water. I ran power from the battery, through the passenger side grommet on the firewallIMG_0047.HEICIMG_0047.HEICIMG_0057.HEICIMG_6781.HEICIMG_6785.HEIC, connected to the Bose Amp on the rear wall behind the seats, tapped with a LLJ Harness into a LC2i and then into 500 watt amp. The LC2i provided a Bass Knob which I ran to the front dash about the wireless charger.

Hey all, I recently purchased a couple shallow mount subs, a subthump box, and an amp/wiring kit for my 2015 GMC Sierra SLE. I also purchased this line output converter to get the signal to the amp from the stock wiring. I searched for "line output converter" and literally nothing came up on the forum, so i'm curious if anyone knows the easiest place to tap into to get the subwoofer signal to the amp? I'd greatly appreciate any help! My truck is a 2015 GMC Sierra SLE, does NOT have the Bose factory system. PAC LP7-2: http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=1188 Gear i'm adding: 2x Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-12 1x Power Acoustik EG1-2500D -- wired to 2 ohms, about 800w RMS total subthump dual 12" box w/ amp rack space Thanks! Captain

I've read threads on here, read other threads (from other sites), spoke with people etc. MY MAIN GOAL OF THIS POST IS TO SEE IF ANYONE HAS ANY COMMENTS OR SUGGESTIONS ON MY WIRE DIAGRAM BEFORE I PULL MY TRUCK APART. THANK YOU My goal is to add the following: 1. High Output Alternator (320A Iraggi) 2. Add Second Battery (Optima Yellow Group Size D34-78) 3. Upgrade All Charging wires to 1/0 Gauge (GP car Audio Power Wire w/Big 3 kit) From what I gather, The route that i'm going to take is as follows: 1. Install the Alternator 2. Run 1/0 Gauge Ground from (-) of Alternator to Frame (Leave factory wire connected) and to (-) of Factory Battery 3. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Alternator to (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) 4. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (-) of Factory Battery to (-) of Second Battery and to Body Ground 5. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) to (+) of Second Battery (fused @ 320A) 6. From there all Power needed for AUX Equipment (Amps, Rock Lights, Inverters, etc) will Run from the (+) of the Second Battery (Fused appropriately) I did a lot of research into this and the only things that had any second thoughts on were if I should run a relay or not and if i should run the 1/0 gauge wire through the current sensor. (not sure if it would even fit). I decided not to do either. The first of which I chose not to do, mainly for the fact that the relay has a voltage drop of its own (minor), but also, it's removal has been the fix for many people in car audio to reduce lights from flickering. The amount of battery capacity that I have won't have issues with me needing to isolate my batteries. The second of which I chose not to do, was only because I read a lot of posts (mainly in car audio forums) that didn't do this and had no issues. I feel that the current wire that is running through the sensor must suffice. I'm still a bit on the fence on this one. But, I could only find maybe 1 or 2 instances where people did this modification and it was for much smaller rated systems. Neither seemed to have any problems. I just tend to follow the majority of examples that don't have issues. I'm attaching my general wire layout. If anyone sees something or could have a rational discussion, please do. I'm all ears.

Can any give some insight on which wires are connected to which speakers on the green plug. I have attached a picture. There are a total of 10 wires and I’m assuming they are (LF+/-)(RF+/-), (RR+/-), (LR+/-) 12V and ground but do not know which goes to where. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!

2015 Double Cab with factory Bose center console subwoofer that needs some improvement. I’ve been researching our options and wanted some opinions. -JL Stealthbox center console. Is it enough? -JL Stealthbox under the rear seat. Worth the cost? -Kicker system. Easy install but wondering if it will be enough. -Box built with 2x10s. Any recommendations on boxes? Thanks!