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Hello, I’m thinking about putting a six inch lift from superlift on my 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4wd, extended cab. My question today is what would be the recommended wheel size (both tire and rim) for this setup and I’d like it to preferably stick out on the side a bit but it’s not needed. I know many run 35” but again I’m not sure.
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Hey there! I'm going to do a public service to the GM Truck people and make a guide on how to remove your front fenders from your Early 00's Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL, and Tahoe. It's pretty straight forward, but this guide should be a help anyway. If you would prefer to watch an in-depth video with the same steps I'm showing here, please click this link --------> Fender Removal Video 1. Here are the tools you will need: 13 MM Socket 10 MM Socket 13 MM Wrench 10 MM Wrench Socket Wrench Socket Extensions Penetrating Oil or WD-40 Bungee Cord(s) Patience Let's first go over why I'm doing this, this truck was donated to me and my father as a project and this fender has a nasty rust hole straight through. So, we're hitting the Pick-N-Pull tomorrow to get a new fender. (Remove your wheel(s) before this guide) 2. Remove the hood hinge (13MM Bolt), or the hood itself. We had a way to support the side of the hood we were removing so we did not need to entirely remove the hood. If you do not have a way to support the hood, you will need to remove the whole thing. 3. Remove all the 13mm's along the fender you are wanting to remove 4. Remove wheel well splash cover by pulling the head of the little clips to free the liner, here is what the clips look like: 5. Soak 13 MM bolt where the fender and rocker panel meet with lube then try and break it loose. (These are exposed so it'll be rusty.) 6. Remove the 2 hidden 13 MM bolts in the door jam, use a long extension. 7. Unscrew Airbox and remove the hose, next remove your air filter and the top of the airbox. 8. Release bottom part of the airbox by using a screwdriver to push the little pins down which will pop the box out. 9. Remove the 3 10MM bolts holding the airbox support down. Remove any remaining clips. 10. Loosen coolant reservoir and secure to the side https://imgur.com/gallery/jO3RCUZ 11. Remove all remaining 13 mm and 10 mm bolts holding fender to chassis. 12. Remove headlight by pulling up on the metal bars, removing them. Next, pull the light and disconnect the connectors. 13. Remove grill clip from fender 14. Remove the last bolt holding the hood hinge to the fender with a wrench 15. Remove 13 MM bolt holding fender in the wheel well (inner bumper) 17. Wiggle fender upward and pull, it should easily come off of the truck. Ta-Da! Now you have tons of access to work or you're halfway done replacing your fender. I hope this helps! If you have trouble, please comment or refer to this video: Thanks!
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I have a 99 gmc sierra that I just bought. While im driving down the road I noticed a whine in the drivetrain, I noticed that the 4wd switch wasnt lighting up so I checked the fuses and the ATC fuse had been removed. I put in the correct fuse and the 4wd switch came on. Once it came on it said the truck was in 4hi. I tried to switch it into 2hi and theres a whining noise coming from the transfer case. It makes 2 long whining noises and the 2hi light flashes the it goes right back to 4hi. I cant get it to change into any other mode (4lo, auto4, 2hi). I bought the truck a week ago and im scared im going to grenade the transfer case by driving it like this. Can you please point me in the right direction.
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I need help with my 1999 4 door 4x4 Chevrolet tahoe. It sat in the yard without a battery in it for a few months. When I put a battery in it and tried to crank it the anti theft wouldn't let it. It starts for a second or 2 and immediately cuts off. A friend of mine put a jumper wire from the I believe pink and orange wires in the steering column saying it would bypass the anti theft And it worked. Crunk up fine. No problem. Well then he touched a wire to something or another wire and it sparked. And now it won't start again. If anyone has any information that might help me it would be appreciated
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I have a 99 GMC Sierra 1500 4X4 and i was wondering if there is a specific brand of o2 sensor that i need to use... because someone was telling me that i have to use OEM for this truck because they dont like NON-OEM o2 sensors. and that they act up and jump all over the place. this guy wanted to charge me $89.99 a plug as well... can someone please help me out with this i would greatly appreciate it...
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So My current 2001 4 door Blazer plow truck/daily driver needs a ton of work. It has over 243K on the clock, very low oil pressure, a leaky heater core, cracked windshield, and multiple emissions problems that I've been leaving unfixed because I don't care (EGR, Air pump, etc.). Oh, and lots and lots of rust. Did I mention it's a 4 door, I hate 4 doors. Anyways, I saw a 1999 Two door ZR2 show up on Facebook Marketplace with 134K and an engine knock for $580 bucks with brand new tires so I immediately message the seller and went to look at it. I talked him down to $500 and towed it back to my shop. Oh, and it even had a full tank of gas. (bonus!) Sounds like a bad rod knock. Will most likely need a crankshaft, rod and rebuild, but I might be able to find a cheap used engine. I already located the correct pushplates locally to mount the fisher plow, So I'll pick those up sometime this week (they are different plates than the standard Blazer takes). Tomorrow after work I will pull the oil pan and see what actually failed. So here's a pic of the truck: and here's a picture of my current 2001 Blazer that is going to be retired (junk yard) after I keep it for a few months to rob any parts that I may need for the new one. And my beat Fisher Plow:
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I don't know much about vehicles, or forums at that. I know enough obviously to have looked up & changed out the shift column mechanism. Now for some reason when Im at slow speeds my brakes are wanting to lock up? Could this have something to do with something not being plugged back in right or? Im lost on this one.
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Hopefully I didn't miss this being posted already, if so, I'm sorry. I have a 2004 Tahoe, 2WD, 4.8L, 4L60E. Transmission went out, I have a 1999 Silverado 5.3L, 4L60E 4x4 with transfer case. The only thing I noticed different besides having the transfer case and extra plugs on the 99 harness for said transfer case, is the neutral safety switch on the 99 4x4 trans has a 2 plug harness vs my 2004 Tahoe trans with a single harness plug. Am I able to use this 4x4 trans in my 2WD Tahoe? I'm assuming I could swap the safety switch, and leave the front driveshaft off? Also finding a rear driveshaft off of a 4x4 Tahoe since mine and the donor truck's driveshaft would be too long, I'd assume? I've been told I could and I've been told I couldn't. I've swapped transmissions before, but never done anything like this, so I'd just like some insight if someone could help me on this topic I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
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Hello everyone, I have an issue this morning with my z71. I loaded my truck down with house hold garbage.. Turned on the truck no issue that I noticed ( Havent started the truck in a week) Got in to drive then noticed all the lights on the 4wd selector on the dash were lit and the service 4wd was reporting on the dash console. I unhocked the battery for 5 mins and tested again, same issues. Hooked up tester ODB2 no errors. Can anyone help me with this? Any advice?
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- z71
- service 4wd
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I've searched the forum but found no useful information. I just purchased a 19999 Silverado 1500. The truck came with no keyless entry remotes. The power door locks do not work at all. When I push the lock/unlock button I can here a clicking inside the doors the first time I push it. All subsequent pushes of the button result in no noise. The locks operate easily manually and with the key. What I've tried so far: 1. checked and tested all the fuses and relays in the fuse panel at the end of the drivers side dash. All the fuses and relays are good. Does anyone have any other ideas about what to check before I rip off both door panels and replace the actuators?
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I just replaced the front bearings on both sides of my 99' Silverado Z71. But now the brakes are giving me issues. When im going slow is where i have the issues. It feels as if they lock up and all you hear is kinda like a bad power steering noise. the pads are almost new. I dont know what this could be. Can anyone help.
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My 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 lost all oil pressure, and then a little later engine shut off. Did not make any loud noises, It just died. When we went to restart it, we could here the starter engage, but the engine wouldn't turn over. So we had it towed, and the guy at the tow shop put a wrench on it and tried to turn it, but was unable to. We have done no further troubleshooting, this happened on January 1, 2018. We assumed it is seized. What I am wondering is what you guys think, is it likely that it seized or is something else more likely to be the problem? If it is seized what part would have seized up? And would it be better to rebuild the engine, or to put a new engine in it? The truck has about 200k miles on it, and ran perfectly before this happened. It is the new body style, btw.
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I have a1999 Silverado 2500 4x4 6.0 that I just got running again it has been sitting for 2 years because my girls dad was going through some rough time and didn't really care now 2 years later he is in no shape to be under a hood or on his back messing with the thing anyways I needed a vehicle and he said if I could get it running I could use it I went and bought a can of sea foam a 10gal gas can with gas and battery put everything in/on and it started right up like it was nothing I was like sweet since then witch was 2 days before this post ive don a oil change wit 10w30 Castrol edge high millage and k&n oil filter a much needed bath all new lights toped off dexcool, power steering, witch is leaking but the whole reason I was making this post was when I stop at nights 2 things happen AND ONLY SOMTIMES the gas peddles feels like its getting stuck when I go to APPLY presser but not on release and it idles funny but if I put it in natural and rev it the put it back in gear it will idle normal the rest of the time till the light turns green but at the next light it may or may not do it what do you think it could be
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So I recently inherited a 99 silverado and I want to lift it a little. I was planning on cranking the keys and adding a leaf in the back to clear 33s without rubbing. I have heard stories of having to redo front ends because of overcranking torsion bars. I was wondering can I put hdtorsionbads on my 1500 and will that give me any lift??
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From the album: 2002 GMC 2500HD build
I replaced all the headlights and tail lights with LED. Did Herculiner on the bottom of the truck. Dual exhaust, Fast 80mm throttle body and street tune. It was a real street tune from a shop not one from a can. A leveling kit sitting on 285/70/17's. -
Howdy, fellers! I bought a GMC C2500 from a friend last summer when my last work truck was totaled. Now this gas-loving beast is my daily driver after my Nissan Sentra was totaled a few weeks ago. This truck is fantastic - a 7.4L engine that's great for towing the Bobcat or several tons of rock. It needs a little work, some of which I have already done. I enjoy learning to work on my own vehicles, although that's getting tougher to do the way they build vehicles now. So far, I have done oil, brakes, plugs, wires, upper ball joints, bearings, and added Bluetooth all myself. I had the shop do lower ball joints, new struts, and brake fluid flush. Looking forward to being a part of the forum!
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Hello, I just bought a 1999 Silverado 1500 Z71 stepside, and the service 4wd light is on, I changed the push button gear selector with a confirmed working switch, and it still acts as if there is no power to the switch. There are no sounds coming from the transfer case motor when I push any of the buttons, and none of the indicator lights are lit up, save for when I remove the ATC fuse and re-install it, then they all light up, then they go back out. I believe that I have it narrowed down to the transfer case control module, now my only problem is that I cannot locate it. If anyone could help me, that would be awesome. Sorry for such a long-winded explanation of my problem, I just wanted to make sure that I give enough information in case someone can pick up on something that I missed.
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hazard light help please!!!
MRbam444 posted a topic in 1988-1999 Chevrolet & GMC C/K GMT400 Platform
i have a 1999 gmc sierra 2500 6.0 made in 1998 but has the 2000 round body style and newer motor from 2000's i was adding my AUX and checking on my radio wiring and i forgot to drop my steering wheel down to let the dash cover fit through and i broke off my hazard light switch. i found a blog post i thought would work(havent tried it yet) but wanna make sure. the part she said to get doesnt match up with my truck on autozone or amazon catalog thing. blog post - http://sarahjoaustin.com/2010/01/15/how-to-repair-your-gm-hazard-light-switch/ is there anyway i can just buy the switch or do i have to rip my steering colum apart and replace my whole blinker arm? any help would be much appreciated since im 19 and have no money due to my $8 an hour job and my 11 month old son but i do know my way around automotive mechanics and tools thanks -
i have a 99 sierra 2500 and want to drop a 2013 sierra 2500 engine into it. my question is, how hard will it be to do this. i am mechanically inclined and know i can mechanically fit this engine in my 99 by modifying a few things, but i am concerned on the electrical. i know i will have to use the ecu and wiring harness off the 2013 but i definitely need advise before i get into this massive project. i have the complete totaled doner car so i can use whatever i need of that. i am really concerned with the electrical and how to connect it to my 99. will this be possible? easy as plug and play? thanks so much in advance.
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- gmc sierra
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