Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'fuel pump'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • GM-Trucks.com Original News & Product Reviews
    • The Newsroom
    • The Garage
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 2019+ T1XX Platform
    • Silverado / Sierra Speculation & Spy Shots
    • 2019 / 2020 Silverado & Sierra
    • 2020 Silverado HD & Sierra HD (2500/3500)
    • 2021 Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL & Escalade
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 2014-2019 K2XX Platform
    • 2014 - 2018 Silverado & Sierra
    • 2015-2020 Suburban/Tahoe & Yukon/Yukon Denali
    • 2015-2019 Silverado HD & Sierra HD (2500/3500)
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 1999-2006 GMT800 & 2007-2013 GMT900 Platforms
    • 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500
    • 2000-2014 Silverado & Sierra HD
  • Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
    • 2015-2020 Colorado & Canyon
    • 2005-2012 Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
  • Midsize Crossover - 2017-2020 C1XX Platform
    • 2017-2020 Traverse, Acadia, Enclave & XT5
    • 2019 - 2020 Blazer
  • Classic Chevrolet / GMC Pickup Trucks
    • 1988-1999 Chevrolet & GMC C/K GMT400 Platform
    • 1973-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Square Body / Rounded Line Pickups
    • 1967-1972 Chevrolet & GMC Glamour / Action Line Pickups
    • 1960-1966 Chevrolet C/K/Apache & GMC 1000-3000 Pickups
    • 1982-2005 Chevrolet S-10/Blazer & GMC S15/Sonoma/Jimmy
    • 1969-1994 Chevrolet K5 Blazer & GMC Fullsize Jimmy
  • Marketplace
    • For Sale/Wanted
    • Member & Vendor Rating Forum
    • Member Product Reviews
  • GM-Trucks.com is supported by
    • Adam's Premium Car Care
    • Agri-Cover
    • Arnott Air Suspension
    • Black Bear Performance
    • GMPartsDirect.com
    • UPR Products
    • Synthetic Advantage
  • The Lounge
    • Off-Topic
    • Automotive Industry & Market Discussion
    • New Member Introductions
    • Meetups, Events, & Gatherings
    • GM-Trucks.com Comment Box
  • Hobbies & Lifestyle
  • Technical & Advanced
  • Chevrolet, GMC, Buick & Cadillac Crossovers
  • Commercial Vehicles
  • Black Truck Club's Topics
  • Texas Owner's Group's Topics
  • California Owner's Group's Topics
  • New England Owner's Group's Topics
  • Midwest Owner's Group's Topics
  • South Carolina Silverado Owners's Topics
  • Canadian Owners Club's Topics
  • SCUBA divers of GM-Trucks's Scuba Talk
  • Red Truck Club's Topics
  • Idaho Sierra & Silverado Owners Club's Idaho
  • Colorado Trucks's Exhaust Setups
  • SEO Paint's seo color ordered
  • NorthSky Blue Club's NorthSky Blue Metallic
  • NorthSky Blue Club's Pics

Calendars

  • Events
  • Birthdays
  • Texas Owner's Group's Events
  • California Owner's Group's Events
  • Midwest Owner's Group's Events
  • Red Truck Club's Events

Categories

  • Articles
  • News
  • Reviews
    • Project Sierra
  • Resources

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


MSN


Website URL


Yahoo


Skype


Facebook


Twitter


Name


Location


Interests


Drives

Found 26 results

  1. So i have a 2000 chevy silverado 1500 4x4 with the 5.3L V8. I have replaced the seals on the injectors, new fuel pump, new fuel filter and new spark plugs and wires. The issue i am facing that i cannot figure out is why im still losing pressure in the fuel. It is no problem when it is cold it fires right up. But when its warm and i leave it shut off for more than five minutes, it takes three or four cycles of the key to start. I know im losing pressure but i do not know where or how. there is no fuel leaks anywhere that i can see. and with replacing everything i am stumped and need some help.
  2. My 99 Yukon with Vortec 5.7L suddenly won't run. It cranks over fine, starts in about 1 second (normal), but then dies 2-3 seconds later. Giving it a little bit of throttle while starting doesn't make any difference. I was out of town when it happened, so I had to have it towed to the nearest shop. I suspect the fuel pump, but my search of the forum didn't turn up any other posts with this problem. Is this common? If not the fuel pump, any ideas what could be causing this start, but quickly dying, problem to suddenly appear? I also considered the fuel filter, but it seems unlikely it would behave this way suddenly. It's been a while, but the last time I checked the fuel pressure, it was right around 60 PSI.
  3. I have the following items for sale individually or as a whole. They are brand new, never used, in the box. I had purchased to replace the Fuel Pump system on my 2007 Sierra (new model), but ending up trading in the truck instead. Here are the parts, part #s and asking price: 1 – GM Fuel Pump Retainer Lock Ring (GM# 10325852/ACD# TR26) $5.00 1 – GM Sensor Kit (GM# 19168426/ACD# SK1294) $50.00 1 – Fuel Pump with seal – (GM#19206532/ACD# M10206) $200 I will sell all 3 together for $230 and that includes shipping. I will also sell the Sensor Kit and Fuel Pump separately if need be for the prices stated (including shipping).
  4. Have 2001 Sierra Z71 1500 with 5.3; having problems starting, I crank at few revolutions then turn ignition off then back on. Once I've heard pump stop It starts right up. Not sure where to begin.
  5. I have noticed when I open the drivers door I here a sound like the fuel pump starting up for several seconds then shuts off. Is this normal? What is the reason for doing this?
  6. If anyone knows of a previous thread that explains similar symptoms please let me know, I haven't been able to find any. I have been getting a CEL for p0171(lean bank one), p0405 (egr), p0449 (evap vent seloniod), and occasionally p0174 (lean bank two), and p0430 (cat system efficiency below threshold). It makes sense that all of these codes could come together so let me explain a little bit of what's going on. I bought the truck last fall with about 200k miles, and unfortunately had to have the trans rebuilt so I am trying to avoid throwing parts at it and hoping it fixes the issues. When I bought the truck there was a code for the evap vent seloniod, which as far as I know would more than likely just make it so that the gasses can't excape when fueling and casuse me to have to hold the handle so I haven't been in a huge rush to replace that. There were exhaust manifold bolts broken in the block so I decided to put shorties on while everything was apart since they were relatively inexpensive, but these didn't have the port for egr and I bought the egr block. When swapping the manifolds, I found out the collector on my y pipe was cracked and plan to drop that down and weld it up when it gets warmer out. So I expect those two codes. As far as the cat efficiency being off, that has only came up a couple of times and I haven't quite gotten a chance to figure out anything that happens consistently before that. When it was real cold my truck would somewhat surge when stopping at stoplights. Now the bank one too lean code is the one that concerns me the most. For some reason the bank two lean isn't as common, and is usually just a pending fault and not a current fault like the bank one is. I thought maybe the lean codes could be from the known exhaust leak but that seems inconsistent with the bank having most trouble. Monitoring my fuel trims using torque pro I found that my long terms were pegged at 25 and the short terms were even higher. The short terms dropped when I revved the engine up to around 2500 and I could hear a slight Rev when spraying the intake with brake cleaner. This was on the passenger side, near where the egr was. It was close to the throttle body, and a new gasket was super cheap so I decided to clean the throttle body and clean the gasket which didn't do much if anything for me. Everything I came across looking at fuel trims led to vacuum leak, so I thought maybe the maf was bad so I tried a new one which didn't change anything either. I put the old one back in and removed the egr block flipped the o-ring around and that seemed to help for a day or so. But it came right back to where it was prior, so thinking it could also be a fuel issues I checked the pressure with a loaner from oriley's. Originally the key off pressure was up near 55 psi, the I turned the engine over and the pressure was around 45. After revving it was around that range still. I let the pressure off the tester and turned the key back on and this time the pressure was getting up to about 30 and then coming to about 25 after starting The gauge could have bad calibration, or I could have a fuel delivery issue. Anyways I have not noticed any misfires, nor have I gotten any misfire codes. My fuel trims remain high at idle (ltft 25%, stft from - 3% to around +10%), and lower when under load, especially if I'm actually driving. I was assuming that if it was a fuel issue I would see the fuel trim higher under load and more normal when idling? Any suggestions as to what else I could do to try to narrow this down and avoid taking it into the shop? Sorry for the wall of text, but I wanted to explain the best I could as this doesn't quite seem to be making sense.
  7. First off let me start with how much I love this reliable old truck. We WERE at 4 years and 40,000 miles trouble free. Driving this morning at highway speeds. Felt a buck, wasn’t sure if it was transmission related or what. Then a mile later it starts bucking repeatedly. Followed by a loss of power, very slowly slowed down to 2-3 mph where it finally shut off. As it did this the low battery light flashed and the dash lights when dim. I shut the ignition off, waited a couple minutes and started it again. It cranked without hesitation and fired ran for a couple seconds, I tried giving some throttle and it cut out and shut down. I’m thinking fuel filter/pump, but the low battery light flash and dimming lights make me wonder if it’s something electrical. Any one experience this, any insight? Thanks in advance!
  8. 2002 chevy silverado 2500hd 6.0 truck randomly dies no rough idle, no lights, no error codes. Truck won't start up right after it dies but if I let it sit it will start up fine anyone else have similar issues or have any ideas and what it could be?
  9. HELP yesterday I parked my 12/1999 chevy1500 z71 on slight hill when I tried to start it, it kept coughing &dying when I rolled it to level ground it finally started Later that night same conditions while ideling for 10 minutes it died & wouldn't restart till on level ground is it bad fuel, bad fuel pump, or some type of sabatage?
  10. Recently my 2007 silverado 1500 with a 5.3L engine stalled. Engine would not start again. Thought it was the fuel pump so I replaced it and same problem, would not start. Replaced the fuel control module next and truck now starts and runs fine. I am however now getting a P2635 code after start up. Try to reset the code but just comes back again. Tested my fuel pressure with a gauge and reads 59 psi at idle and up to 75 psi during start. Had to have the new fuel control module programmed to work in my truck. Not sure what is wrong. Is it possible for the new fuel control module to take a little time to adjust the expected and actual fuel pressure and turn of the code P2635? Any help would be appreciated.
  11. Please help. I have an 02 Suburban with a fuel pump issue. The fuel pump went out. I had my neighbor kid swap it out. When he replaced it, he broke the nipple on the vapor canister, (not sure if that’s relevant). He reinstalled the tank and we went to start it up and.... nothing. The gas gauge wouldn't read and there was no fuel going to the fuel rail. We dropped the tank again and I noticed that he installed and adapter on the wiring harness. I disconnected the adapter and plugged it in directly. The gas gauge kicked on, the truck started up, then sputtered out. I checked fuel pressure with the key in the on position. It would start out at 45 PSI, then rapidly drop to 0. I checked the FPR, it was fine. I checked for an injector that might be stuck open, they were fine as well. I returned the pump and picked up a new one. Now, I only get 4 volts to the pump in the on position and 0 fuel to the fuel rail. I swapped out the FP relay and still, only 4 volts. I bypassed the relay with a jumper and got 12 volts at the pump, but the pump still won’t engage, and the gas gauge won’t turn on either. I tried installing the adapter that came with the last pump and the gas gauge kicked on, but still have no fuel to the fuel rail. All grounds are good. If it were an ECM issue, bypassing the relay should still kick the pump on. I’m at a loss now. Any suggestions?
  12. 2003 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.8L This is my first post on any kind of forum but I am desperate for answers because I am unable to find info anywhere else online. Today I had my instrument cluster fixed by a guy who says he has done several. The gear indicator, oil pressure gauge, and the backlighting were not working properly. When I went to pick up my truck today he explained to me that everything was working except the fuel gauge. The gauge has worked with no problem until today. He claims that the fuel gauge is not getting a good connection because it has a bad lead, which I've never heard of. The gauge starts to bounce a little when I turn the key on but stops after about 3 seconds or so, which tells me it's getting power. He replaced the stepper motor with a new one. Any ideas on what it could be? I put a full tank of gas in it after I discovered it wasn't working
  13. Having some drivability issues, then got a CEL which showed a code #44 O2 lean. Fuel Pressure showed 10psi. Pinching return line didn't yield any increase in pressure. Diagnosing a dying pump I decided to upgrade to an EP381 to cover any future mods. I may have around 250rwhp now (see sig), would like around 350hp when I have more time to play. Can you outline, or provide the thread covering adjusting/modifying the OE pressure reg (for the EP381)? I will be installing my Holley TBI later - I understand that has an adjustable press reg which should be straightforward to adjust? I prob only need about 14 - 15psi with my current light mods. Thanks
  14. This is my first post and I'm new here. I have a '07 ext cab Silverado, 4.8, 96,000 miles, non-flex fuel, LT, 2WD, 3.23 rear, in Tennessee. The problem started one day when I left a traffic light. I took off and when it reached around 10 mph, it dumped out and then picked back up as if it was out of gas, which I thought it was. It was very low on fuel. I stopped and got some gas but the problem persisted and got worse. I thought I had let the fuel level get low enough to pick up some trash from the bottom of the tank. I've done this before and it clogged up the fuel filter. But, alas, there is no serviceable fuel filter on this truck. I continued driving it with the sputtering/dumping/hesitation/whatever you call it. It feels like you hit the throttle and then once it starts going you've turned the key off. But it picks back up. I finally got a "check engine" light so I pulled the 3 DTC's, which were all fuel pump related, one being the fuel pump relay, which I changed. Cleared the codes, they came back with a vengeance, so I exposed the fuel tank from the top. Back in the day, I could pull the bed off a Silverado with one other person and set it on the ground. This truck has a heavy bed, plus I had no immediate help, so I devised a slick way to slide the bed back three feet by using a couple of 4 ft 4x4 posts and two pieces of 6 ft. conduit, but that's for another post, I guess. Anyway, I pulled the pump, set the pick up in a can of gasoline and wired it straight to the battery. It made way more noise than I thought it would make, plus it barely trickled gasoline out the supply. So I disassembled the rack and cleaned everything to where it all looked like new and tried the straight wire thing again. Same result, so I ordered a new Delphi fuel pump assembly and waited three days for it to show. Hey, $256 vs. $526 at my local dealer is worth a three day wait to me. In the meantime I dropped the spare tire and pulled the plug and cleaned all the terminals of the harness junction and verified a good ground. Got the new pump and installed it. The truck cranked right up and throttled up just as it should, so I put the whole thing back together and went for a test drive. It did the dump out thing almost immediately but not nearly as bad. Also, it doesn't just buck once. It felt like you were trying to break a horse, as if someone was driving and going from no throttle to wide open throttle and back again. If you barely used any throttle at all, it would almost act normally so I knew the problem was in the fuel delivery. However, within ten minutes the engine had sputtered to the point that I barely got it back in to my driveway. Now it will not crank. Fuse, relay and fuel pump have been changed. Ground and wiring are good, but I'm about to put it on jack stands and recheck the ground because I have a funny feeling about it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I rebuild muscle cars from frame off and everything in between so I'm the guy that has never taken a car to a dealer or a repair shop for anything. My day job is as a Network Engineer so I was one of the few that welcomed the auto computer age so that doesn't scare me either. I will say, though, that this truck requires some searching if you're looking for something like a relay. Thanks in advance for any help.
  15. Is a very known topic that the Vortec spider injection system is prone to leak inside the intake and has problematic poppet valves I found exactly that being the problem of all my misfire codes and rough running issues replaced the spider injection with new current updated part which gives actual fuel injectors at the bottom of each tube my system now stores and holds pressure without hardly any leak down.. Now the real question I read everywhere that fuel pressure on vortex should be 6265 psi at Prime and full running condition or else vehicle will not start this is false! My vehicle now runs and starts at turn of key exactly the way it should and I am only producing 45 to 50 psi at prime and runninG..Fuel pump is one year old and the new fuel injection spider system is 3 days old so fuel pressure regulator is also knew as it comes part of the new injection system..When plugging off the vent back fuel line my pressure tags out the gauge so I know my fuel pump is capable of producing 90 psi or higher. So why am I only producing 45 - 50 psi in my normal operation?..I have absolutely no leak down pressure and holds solid and firm at 45 psi for a long time after the key is turned off I also have 12 volts or more at the pump and confirmed all good grounds..Any takers on this one?..The truck runs and starts very well but I can still feel a slight miss not a complete smooth rhythm so I feel it may be due to the low fuel pressure..What does map sensor have anything to do with fuel pressure regulation seeing how the fuel regulator is inside the intake manifold on the spider injection system using internal engine vacuum to operate and MAP sensor reads these values?
  16. Of course my first post would be a trouble shooting question right. So ive got a 97 5.7 vortec, new starter, alternator, fuel pump and filter. a while back i started having issues getting my truck to start if the engine was warm and i had turned it off. usually quick trips to the store were ok but as soon as my engine gets to temperature it wont start. ideas of where to start looking.
  17. Hi guys, I LOVE suburbans, this is my 5th, but I have a problem that is stumping me. 1999 GMC Suburban 1500 4x4, Vortex 350, 248000.Automatic ( engine rebuilt 87000 miles ago) LOCATION: top of a mountain in Colorado, no garage or cement to work on, drive 14 miles a day on rough road base. PROBLEM: Installed AirTech ( yeah I know) 2 yrs. ago. ran well until 6 wks. ago. Died. replaced with Delphi, drove 2 weeks,DIED. Installed another, 2 weeks, DIED, Installed another, DIED after about 2 weeks, Installed ANOTHER, yep died. Getting ready to install another. ( yes I did cut a hole in my back deck to access pump) SYMPTOMS: Historically will start immediately ( 3/4 cranks max), when going bad will take longer to start or not start at all. Mostly happens after sitting over night, once started (warm) seems to continue starting. No odor of gas. Mileage has stayed about the same. When driving ( 0 -80 mph) no noticeable problems ( stuttering, lack of power, missing) Tank looks excellent after inspection- have gone through over 200 gallons since this started, NEVER under a half tank of fuel. Procedures completed: installed 5 NEW, under warranty Delphi's. Replaced fuel pump relay, replaced in line fuel filter ( on frame), replaced pig tail from pump to wiring harness ( 4 times), replaced distributor cap. ( all within last 2 months) Checked and cleaned ground from pump to frame. Had another fellow check voltage at pigtail. ( said it looked correct) Any ideas? I really don't want to take off the manifold to replace the fuel pump pressure regulator. Please speak English when leaving replies, I'm not great with voltage meters.
  18. I replaced the fuel pump in the tank of my 07 Yukon xl yesterday due to a check valve that wouldn't retain fuel pressure after being parked for a few hours. The truck usually took two tries to start. Now that I have that problem seemingly taken care of, I have two warning lights coming on. It fluctuates between stabiltrac and traction control and then both will go out. It causes a hard shift between 1st and 2nd when the light is on. But then the light will go out and everything is back to normal. Happens with the car idling in park and while driving. I have read that somehow the throttle body can cause this, but I'm wondering if it is possible for my new fuel pump to cause the problem as well.
  19. Hi, I have a 2005 Yukon XL 5.3 liter. I replaced the fuel pump two months ago due to a pressure issue (having to start twice to get it to start). Everything went fine with the installation and for the last two months all worked fine. My Wife filled her tank up 3 days ago and the gas gauge went well beyond full (See Pic). The computer range works fine. After a couple of days it looks like the gauge goes down but when its empty it shows half a tank (see picture). Anyone have any idea what the problem is. I disconnected the battery hoping it might reset but that didn't work. I don't think its the sending unit since the computer (miles til empty) is working. http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab45/iam4uf_2009/614f725c-4ef7-4d56-89ae-f7392c6dd993_zpst0fzctot.jpg http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab45/iam4uf_2009/IMG_22711_zps00yrc7sz.jpg
  20. Hello, I have a 2008 Sierra SLE with a 5.3 engine. When I turn the truck off the fuel pump continues to run. I swapped the A/C compressor relay with the Fuel Pump relay in the fuse block but that did nothing. I tried pulling the Fuel Pump fuse and it still kept running. The only way I can get it to shut off is by pulling the Fuel System Control Module fuse. Any ideas? Thanks, Dale
  21. Hi guys, yep im in need of a new fuel pump for a 2004 6.0 2500hd long bed 36gal tank.. i need to know quite a few things regarding long bed vs short bed fuel pumps, does anyone know a good website/forum to find this info out.. Im thinking about going with a walbro 255, but from the videos iv seen that pump is too loud for me.. are they spos to be loud like that, i read something about some sort of china rip off blaa blaa something on the walbros, so i thought why not just go back stock.. well 300+ dollars is a good reason not to... So i began my look for something cheaper, iv found tons of cheap 60 to 100 dollar ebay fuel pumps, but they are all for short beds.. just needing to know if there is any difference in them, i know the short beds fuel tank isn't as big as the long bed but idk for sure the size, im guessing the length wouldn't matter, but the depth would make the idea not work im sure.. and not sure if the sending unit for fuel gauge will be in the same ranges .. so ha ne1 can help please
  22. The initial roll-out will focus on three key parts; the starter, battery, and fuel pump. Other components will be added in future model years. The service will be first offered on the new 2016 Chevrolet Equinox, Tahoe, Suburban, Corvette, Silverado, and Silverado HD. More Chevrolet vehicles will roll out during the 2016 model year. Building on the 15-year history of connected vehicle technology through OnStar, the prognostic service relies on OnStar 4G LTE to provide data streams from sensors within the vehicle. When a customer has enrolled their properly equipped vehicle in this service, the data is sent to OnStar’s secure servers and proprietary algorithms are applied to assess whether certain conditions could impact vehicle performance. When indicated, notifications are sent to the customer via email, text message, in-vehicle alerts or through the OnStar RemoteLink smartphone app.
  23. By Zane Merva Executive Editor, GM-Trucks.com 1/5/2015 Chevrolet will be the first brand to offer service warnings on critical parts before they need fixed, otherwise known as Prognostic Service. The predictive service will monitor key vehicle components for the very first signs of wear or failure. Leveraging OnStar 4G LTE Connectivity, the vehicle can warn a drivers a part may fail before they even know something is wrong. The initial roll-out will focus on three key parts; the starter, battery, and fuel pump. Other components will be added in future model years. The service will be first offered on the new 2016 Chevrolet Equinox, Tahoe, Suburban, Corvette, Silverado, and Silverado HD. More Chevrolet vehicles will roll out during the 2016 model year. Building on the 15-year history of connected vehicle technology through OnStar, the prognostic service relies on OnStar 4G LTE to provide data streams from sensors within the vehicle. When a customer has enrolled their properly equipped vehicle in this service, the data is sent to OnStar’s secure servers and proprietary algorithms are applied to assess whether certain conditions could impact vehicle performance. When indicated, notifications are sent to the customer via email, text message, in-vehicle alerts or through the OnStar RemoteLink smartphone app.
  24. I recently replaced a fuel pump on my Yukon XL 2001. For the benefits of other Yukon owners that may be having the same problem, I published the process in my blog: http://simonraban.blogspot.com/2014/05/replacing-gmc-yukon-xl-2001-fuel-pump.html Your comments and feedback are welcome.
  25. OK i have basically done everything on this girl. i have replaced the fuel fump and it did not fix the no start issue. keep in mind a shotgunned it without a test light or dvom. so replaced the pump and nothing. wont even prime. then replaced oil pressure swith. used a jumper wire and the pump primed. started for a week. went to start yesterday and no dice. have voltage and ground to pump connector. now when i use a jumper the pump wont even turn on. this is a 93 Sonoma with 4.3 fuel injected. please anybody. running out of things to try thanx derek
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.