I was talking with a buddy, just the other day, and saying that my truck has been a pretty good truck. I have the Yukon SUV and I have over 200,000 miles on it now. It's a 99 and I've owned for almost 20 years. I hasn't been flawless, but (overall), it's been a pretty good truck. When I bought it, I would never have expected it to make it over 200,000 miles without a whole host of major issues.
I've grown accustomed to my truck's pedal feel, but others have said it feels 'mushy'. Someone at GM Service said that it is a natural side-effect of the brake system (designed that way, intentionally, so that small people, without a lot of leg strength, would be able to stop the truck effectively).
Thanks for the helpful info! I found the same problem... the pot metal 'cylinder-shaped' piece was cracked. So, I found a new part for less than $20. One video I found said that the two bolts that hold the handle on are 7 mm, but I found a 9/32 socket works just fine. I drilled out the rivet fastener with a drill bit a tiny bit smaller than 3/16 (I think it was 11/64). I made a few mistakes along the way (I hope this helps someone else tackling this): When I was trying to loosen the first fastener on the door panel (I slid two putty knives in, on top of each other, then slid a screwdriver sandwiched in between the putty knives, and twisted the screwdriver). It worked fine on the right side, but on the left, the fastener broke away from the door panel! I twisted the screwdriver to get the fastener to start breaking free and give me enough room to get my fingers in to start pulling the fasteners. But when I got the door panel completely off, I discovered the first fastener actually broke off where it is attached to the door panel. NOTE: when you are popping those plastic fasteners loose, it sounds like things are breaking, but they're not (well, except for the one fastener that actually broke!). A couple of the clips came out of the door and were stuck on the pins, but they were reusable, so pried them off and shoved them back in the holes in the door. In my excitement with the new part, I forgot to put the plastic shield on the back side of the handle assembly before attaching the rods. Not too difficult to correct that. I forgot to disconnect the courtesy light and the bulb came out of the socket, floating around inside the light! A minor oops! I found a video that shows how to replace the handle without removing the whole interior door assembly.
Ahhh... so something might be broken (or breaking, anyway). That's different than what I expected, but I'm planning to tear into it soon. I found a video online that showed the cylinder (on the backside) was cracked. Maybe that's what happened with yours, too? Did you have to drill out the lower rivet/fastener in order to replace the handle?
It been getting harder and harder to open the drivers door from the inside. I have to really pull on the handle to unlatch the door. I'm guessing something is working it's way loose. Anyone else had this problem and fixed it? 99 Yukon (but older body style)
Thanks for the tips! It took me a while to get to it, but I replaced the upstream sensor. The most difficult part was dealing with the plastic pin that holds the connector in place; I tried to get the plastic pin (on the back of the wiring connector) free from the holder, but it broke free from the connector first. Ultimately, I couldn't do it (don't have enough access to get in there with a pair of needle-nose pliers to pry it out), so I just left the old pin in place and stuffed the connector back up near it. It seems fairly secure, like it's not likely to go anywhere. The little blue 'security' pin was a bit of extra fun, but I got lucky with a screwdriver and was able to pry that out so that I could disconnect the connector. Once I got all my tools together, it only took about 20 mins. I tried to loosen the downstream sensor, but I wasn't as lucky as with the upstream, so it will have to wait for another time. It looks like the connector will be extra fun because it's on top of the transfer case and it seems I'll have to disconnect it by feel.
Thanks! I've been looking at either Bosch or Delco. Will I really need the special O2 sensor socket? (it looks like it's 7/8") Is the upstream sensor accessible from the engine bay? Or will I need to get at it from under the rig?
Every once in a while (4-5 times over the past 9 years), I've gotten a P0161 (O2 heater performance Bank 2, downstream, after cat) code, but there's never been anything noticeable as far as runability. I got the P0161 in December and again this week. But, now I'm seeing 2 new codes I haven't ever seen before: P0155 (O2 sensor heater performance Bank 2, upstream) and P1153 (O2 sensor insufficient switching Bank 2, upstream). I figure the P0161's may have just been anomalies in the past, but now that I'm seeing BOTH the P0155 and the P1153 for the upstream sensor that it might be a sign the sensor is malfunctioning. Or, should I just wait and see if it's just another anomaly? If you've gotten P0155 and P1153 codes, did replacing the sensor fix the problem? Description
Thanks for the idea! Unfortunately, I didn't see it until after I got back from having the PCM reprogrammed. In my case, they said they believed the problem was that the PCM wasn't receiving any security message at all. Maybe your bypass approach would work in that situation... I'm not sure. Like you, I believe (based on what they told me) the change they made to the PCM resolves this problem. I'll let you know in a year or so :-) Where did you wire in the 2200 ohm resistor?
I just got it back from the shop today. After calling around to a few different places, I decided to take it to the dealership because they had the most experience with this kind of problem. As expected, they were not able to reproduce the problem in the shop. They said this was not the typical failure of the theft deterrent system. They found the same P1626 code stored, in history, as last year. The tech suspects the theft deterrent module (apparently located under the dash) is not powering up when the problem occurs. They recommended a new module, but the part is discontinued. I can find a used part, of course, but it may not be as simple as just swapping out the module (that is, the system may have to re-learn the passcode). They said they can modify the Powertrain control module (PCM) so that it will allow the engine to run if the passcode is missing (involves about one hour labor). Assuming that approach is successful, it may be the way to go if it will prevent the theft deterrent system from disabling the fuel pump AND it will work if the problem lies with the lock cylinder, Passlock module, theft deterrent module or the wiring. Anyone have thoughts or experience on modifying/reprogramming the BCM to ignore a missing passcode? Anyone replace the theft deterrent module in the middle of the dash, underneath the radio? I'm not especially concerned about someone stealing the truck with a screwdriver or the wrong key because I have an aftermarket starter interrupt device (it was in the truck when I bought it).
I had the ignition key lock cylinder replaced about 10 years ago to try to fix a similar problem. It may be time to try that again. I read somewhere that the lock cylinder can wear and tiny pieces of metal can cause problems with it working right as far as reading the key or sending the signal properly. Apparently, the BCM (body control module) is where the theft-deterrent system is located. It *could* be that, as well.
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