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lunytnz

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About lunytnz

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  1. I was talking with a buddy, just the other day, and saying that my truck has been a pretty good truck. I have the Yukon SUV and I have over 200,000 miles on it now. It's a 99 and I've owned for almost 20 years. I hasn't been flawless, but (overall), it's been a pretty good truck. When I bought it, I would never have expected it to make it over 200,000 miles without a whole host of major issues.
  2. I've grown accustomed to my truck's pedal feel, but others have said it feels 'mushy'. Someone at GM Service said that it is a natural side-effect of the brake system (designed that way, intentionally, so that small people, without a lot of leg strength, would be able to stop the truck effectively).
  3. I'm suspicious of the speed sensor (often located on the transmission)
  4. And here's a pic of the crack I found in the pot metal that connects the handle to linkage rod:
  5. Thanks for the helpful info! I found the same problem... the pot metal 'cylinder-shaped' piece was cracked. So, I found a new part for less than $20. One video I found said that the two bolts that hold the handle on are 7 mm, but I found a 9/32 socket works just fine. I drilled out the rivet fastener with a drill bit a tiny bit smaller than 3/16 (I think it was 11/64). I made a few mistakes along the way (I hope this helps someone else tackling this): When I was trying to loosen the first fastener on the door panel (I slid two putty knives in, on top of each other, then s
  6. Ahhh... so something might be broken (or breaking, anyway). That's different than what I expected, but I'm planning to tear into it soon. I found a video online that showed the cylinder (on the backside) was cracked. Maybe that's what happened with yours, too? Did you have to drill out the lower rivet/fastener in order to replace the handle?
  7. It been getting harder and harder to open the drivers door from the inside. I have to really pull on the handle to unlatch the door. I'm guessing something is working it's way loose. Anyone else had this problem and fixed it? 99 Yukon (but older body style)
  8. Thanks for the tips! It took me a while to get to it, but I replaced the upstream sensor. The most difficult part was dealing with the plastic pin that holds the connector in place; I tried to get the plastic pin (on the back of the wiring connector) free from the holder, but it broke free from the connector first. Ultimately, I couldn't do it (don't have enough access to get in there with a pair of needle-nose pliers to pry it out), so I just left the old pin in place and stuffed the connector back up near it. It seems fairly secure, like it's not likely to go anywhere. The little blue '
  9. Thanks! I've been looking at either Bosch or Delco. Will I really need the special O2 sensor socket? (it looks like it's 7/8") Is the upstream sensor accessible from the engine bay? Or will I need to get at it from under the rig?
  10. Sorry about that (normally I make sure that's covered) 99 Yukon 5.7L 190,000 miles
  11. Every once in a while (4-5 times over the past 9 years), I've gotten a P0161 (O2 heater performance Bank 2, downstream, after cat) code, but there's never been anything noticeable as far as runability. I got the P0161 in December and again this week. But, now I'm seeing 2 new codes I haven't ever seen before: P0155 (O2 sensor heater performance Bank 2, upstream) and P1153 (O2 sensor insufficient switching Bank 2, upstream). I figure the P0161's may have just been anomalies in the past, but now that I'm seeing BOTH the P0155 and the P1153 for the upstream sensor that it might be a sig
  12. Good to know! My 99 has made that sound for years! Too bad it's not easier to solve.
  13. Thanks for the idea! Unfortunately, I didn't see it until after I got back from having the PCM reprogrammed. In my case, they said they believed the problem was that the PCM wasn't receiving any security message at all. Maybe your bypass approach would work in that situation... I'm not sure. Like you, I believe (based on what they told me) the change they made to the PCM resolves this problem. I'll let you know in a year or so :-) Where did you wire in the 2200 ohm resistor?
  14. I just got it back from the shop today. After calling around to a few different places, I decided to take it to the dealership because they had the most experience with this kind of problem. As expected, they were not able to reproduce the problem in the shop. They said this was not the typical failure of the theft deterrent system. They found the same P1626 code stored, in history, as last year. The tech suspects the theft deterrent module (apparently located under the dash) is not powering up when the problem occurs. They recommended a new module, but the part is discontinued. I can f
  15. I had the ignition key lock cylinder replaced about 10 years ago to try to fix a similar problem. It may be time to try that again. I read somewhere that the lock cylinder can wear and tiny pieces of metal can cause problems with it working right as far as reading the key or sending the signal properly. Apparently, the BCM (body control module) is where the theft-deterrent system is located. It *could* be that, as well.
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