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Showing results for tags 'Fuel pump'.
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I have a 2020 gmc sierra sle 5.3, I bought it may 13th. Starting at about 800 miles check engine light would flash for a minute or two and then go off, this occured every 300 miles until I got in one day around 1500 or 1600. Check engine light stayed on. Called the dealership and took it in was throwing misfire codes, the diagnosed it as fuel pump module reset the codes and ordered the part and sent me on my way. Come back in and had it replaced when the part arrived, well now fast forward to a tank and a half later and now the check engine light is on for the evap system/gas cap, and fuel pressure at 2200 miles. Right at a week from the time it come out of the shop. I've been extremely happy with the truck but I can't believe I'm going to have to find time to get it in the shop to be looked at and fixed again. I'm at wits end already. Anyone else having these issues? -
Hi! So about 2 months ago my fuel pump went out. Had it replaced and right away we noticed sometimes it would crank but No start. After a few days the pump was defective, so replaced it again. Pump ran great with good pressure but after about a week or so, same issue crank but no start. Sprayed some starter in the manifold sometimes start, sometimes no. Turn key on/off to cycle and then sometimes start, sometimes no. Used the pressure valve behind the spider to bleed air/fuel then engine start fine. Would run fine for a couple days up to a week and then same thing all over again. Took it to local chevy. Diagnosed fuel pump, ... good to go they said, everything working properly. 2 days later No start and this time cannot get it to turn over, pressure is at zero. Pump is still turning on but not humming like it was. Replaced MAF and distributor cap as well as fuel filter. My local mechanic and I are stumped, and I'm already $1000 in on repairs. Please help! -
I have a 2000 Silverado 2500 6.0 that is having some hesitation/cutting out on acceleration. It’s weird it seems like if you ease into the throttle it doesn’t cut out but if you mash on the gas it acts like it wants to die. It does it in park and in drive. First noticed it when I was pulling my boat out of the lake and I could barely make it up the boat ramp, it was spitting in sputtering until it eventually seems like it cleared up and started going normal. I replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, ran seafoam through the gas, and change the air filter but it seems to not of helped there’s also no check engine light. What could be the issue, thanks!
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Hey Everyone so yesterday after filling up my tank on my 07 Silverado 1500 Classic V6 to almost full I noticed gas leaking from under my truck pretty badly on the right side of the gas tank. Only happens when the truck is on. I recently have replaced the gas lines that go to the engine. Since there was a leak there prior and it stopped leaking gas for about 3 months. For a couple weeks now my truck has smelled like gas when you walk around it and also noticed it felt like the truck was struggling to start everytime i get in it but there was no Check Engine light and were no leaks until now when I refilled the tank. Ill attach a video of were it seems the leaking is coming from. It is leaking on the passenger side of the tank towards the front half of the gas tank. Any help/advice is appreciated, Thanks. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ejGyfnc2DoX2NcBD8 -
My 99 Yukon with Vortec 5.7L suddenly won't run. It cranks over fine, starts in about 1 second (normal), but then dies 2-3 seconds later. Giving it a little bit of throttle while starting doesn't make any difference. I was out of town when it happened, so I had to have it towed to the nearest shop. I suspect the fuel pump, but my search of the forum didn't turn up any other posts with this problem. Is this common? If not the fuel pump, any ideas what could be causing this start, but quickly dying, problem to suddenly appear? I also considered the fuel filter, but it seems unlikely it would behave this way suddenly. It's been a while, but the last time I checked the fuel pressure, it was right around 60 PSI.
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2005 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4 Z71 5.3 Gasoline Looking for some help, I’ve talked to a few different shops about the problem I’m having. Basically my fuel gauge isn’t working it always reads empty, and before it was completely shot, it would read normally and shut off, only to come back on a few minutes later. One day it shut off, and never came back on, so I assumed it was the fuel sending unit, so I replaced the fuel pump with a Delphi, I had the same issue so I returned it for an ACDelco because I’ve had experiences with the Delphi pumps being defective, but after I replaced the Delphi with the ACDelco I still had the same problem, I just replaced the Instrument cluster last year so I’m not thinking that’s the problem, the electrical is all plugged in and there is no corrosion whatsoever. Like I’ve said I’ve taken it to shops and everyone tells me the same thing, that they’re mind boggled and can’t figure it out.. I’m stumped too. Ive looked at everything I’ve thought to look at, maybe someone can approach this at a different angle and give me some ideas of what I can do to find the issue. thanks for taking the time to read and reply. if you need to know anything else about the truck I will answer.
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What is the average repair cost for a fuel pump sending unit and float. On a 1998 Suburban 2500. Parts and labor included??
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So i have a 2000 chevy silverado 1500 4x4 with the 5.3L V8. I have replaced the seals on the injectors, new fuel pump, new fuel filter and new spark plugs and wires. The issue i am facing that i cannot figure out is why im still losing pressure in the fuel. It is no problem when it is cold it fires right up. But when its warm and i leave it shut off for more than five minutes, it takes three or four cycles of the key to start. I know im losing pressure but i do not know where or how. there is no fuel leaks anywhere that i can see. and with replacing everything i am stumped and need some help.
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I have the following items for sale individually or as a whole. They are brand new, never used, in the box. I had purchased to replace the Fuel Pump system on my 2007 Sierra (new model), but ending up trading in the truck instead. Here are the parts, part #s and asking price: 1 – GM Fuel Pump Retainer Lock Ring (GM# 10325852/ACD# TR26) $5.00 1 – GM Sensor Kit (GM# 19168426/ACD# SK1294) $50.00 1 – Fuel Pump with seal – (GM#19206532/ACD# M10206) $200 I will sell all 3 together for $230 and that includes shipping. I will also sell the Sensor Kit and Fuel Pump separately if need be for the prices stated (including shipping).
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Have 2001 Sierra Z71 1500 with 5.3; having problems starting, I crank at few revolutions then turn ignition off then back on. Once I've heard pump stop It starts right up. Not sure where to begin.
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I have noticed when I open the drivers door I here a sound like the fuel pump starting up for several seconds then shuts off. Is this normal? What is the reason for doing this? -
If anyone knows of a previous thread that explains similar symptoms please let me know, I haven't been able to find any. I have been getting a CEL for p0171(lean bank one), p0405 (egr), p0449 (evap vent seloniod), and occasionally p0174 (lean bank two), and p0430 (cat system efficiency below threshold). It makes sense that all of these codes could come together so let me explain a little bit of what's going on. I bought the truck last fall with about 200k miles, and unfortunately had to have the trans rebuilt so I am trying to avoid throwing parts at it and hoping it fixes the issues. When I bought the truck there was a code for the evap vent seloniod, which as far as I know would more than likely just make it so that the gasses can't excape when fueling and casuse me to have to hold the handle so I haven't been in a huge rush to replace that. There were exhaust manifold bolts broken in the block so I decided to put shorties on while everything was apart since they were relatively inexpensive, but these didn't have the port for egr and I bought the egr block. When swapping the manifolds, I found out the collector on my y pipe was cracked and plan to drop that down and weld it up when it gets warmer out. So I expect those two codes. As far as the cat efficiency being off, that has only came up a couple of times and I haven't quite gotten a chance to figure out anything that happens consistently before that. When it was real cold my truck would somewhat surge when stopping at stoplights. Now the bank one too lean code is the one that concerns me the most. For some reason the bank two lean isn't as common, and is usually just a pending fault and not a current fault like the bank one is. I thought maybe the lean codes could be from the known exhaust leak but that seems inconsistent with the bank having most trouble. Monitoring my fuel trims using torque pro I found that my long terms were pegged at 25 and the short terms were even higher. The short terms dropped when I revved the engine up to around 2500 and I could hear a slight Rev when spraying the intake with brake cleaner. This was on the passenger side, near where the egr was. It was close to the throttle body, and a new gasket was super cheap so I decided to clean the throttle body and clean the gasket which didn't do much if anything for me. Everything I came across looking at fuel trims led to vacuum leak, so I thought maybe the maf was bad so I tried a new one which didn't change anything either. I put the old one back in and removed the egr block flipped the o-ring around and that seemed to help for a day or so. But it came right back to where it was prior, so thinking it could also be a fuel issues I checked the pressure with a loaner from oriley's. Originally the key off pressure was up near 55 psi, the I turned the engine over and the pressure was around 45. After revving it was around that range still. I let the pressure off the tester and turned the key back on and this time the pressure was getting up to about 30 and then coming to about 25 after starting The gauge could have bad calibration, or I could have a fuel delivery issue. Anyways I have not noticed any misfires, nor have I gotten any misfire codes. My fuel trims remain high at idle (ltft 25%, stft from - 3% to around +10%), and lower when under load, especially if I'm actually driving. I was assuming that if it was a fuel issue I would see the fuel trim higher under load and more normal when idling? Any suggestions as to what else I could do to try to narrow this down and avoid taking it into the shop? Sorry for the wall of text, but I wanted to explain the best I could as this doesn't quite seem to be making sense.
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First off let me start with how much I love this reliable old truck. We WERE at 4 years and 40,000 miles trouble free. Driving this morning at highway speeds. Felt a buck, wasn’t sure if it was transmission related or what. Then a mile later it starts bucking repeatedly. Followed by a loss of power, very slowly slowed down to 2-3 mph where it finally shut off. As it did this the low battery light flashed and the dash lights when dim. I shut the ignition off, waited a couple minutes and started it again. It cranked without hesitation and fired ran for a couple seconds, I tried giving some throttle and it cut out and shut down. I’m thinking fuel filter/pump, but the low battery light flash and dimming lights make me wonder if it’s something electrical. Any one experience this, any insight? Thanks in advance! -
2002 chevy silverado 2500hd 6.0 truck randomly dies no rough idle, no lights, no error codes. Truck won't start up right after it dies but if I let it sit it will start up fine anyone else have similar issues or have any ideas and what it could be?
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HELP yesterday I parked my 12/1999 chevy1500 z71 on slight hill when I tried to start it, it kept coughing &dying when I rolled it to level ground it finally started Later that night same conditions while ideling for 10 minutes it died & wouldn't restart till on level ground is it bad fuel, bad fuel pump, or some type of sabatage?
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Recently my 2007 silverado 1500 with a 5.3L engine stalled. Engine would not start again. Thought it was the fuel pump so I replaced it and same problem, would not start. Replaced the fuel control module next and truck now starts and runs fine. I am however now getting a P2635 code after start up. Try to reset the code but just comes back again. Tested my fuel pressure with a gauge and reads 59 psi at idle and up to 75 psi during start. Had to have the new fuel control module programmed to work in my truck. Not sure what is wrong. Is it possible for the new fuel control module to take a little time to adjust the expected and actual fuel pressure and turn of the code P2635? Any help would be appreciated. -
Please help. I have an 02 Suburban with a fuel pump issue. The fuel pump went out. I had my neighbor kid swap it out. When he replaced it, he broke the nipple on the vapor canister, (not sure if that’s relevant). He reinstalled the tank and we went to start it up and.... nothing. The gas gauge wouldn't read and there was no fuel going to the fuel rail. We dropped the tank again and I noticed that he installed and adapter on the wiring harness. I disconnected the adapter and plugged it in directly. The gas gauge kicked on, the truck started up, then sputtered out. I checked fuel pressure with the key in the on position. It would start out at 45 PSI, then rapidly drop to 0. I checked the FPR, it was fine. I checked for an injector that might be stuck open, they were fine as well. I returned the pump and picked up a new one. Now, I only get 4 volts to the pump in the on position and 0 fuel to the fuel rail. I swapped out the FP relay and still, only 4 volts. I bypassed the relay with a jumper and got 12 volts at the pump, but the pump still won’t engage, and the gas gauge won’t turn on either. I tried installing the adapter that came with the last pump and the gas gauge kicked on, but still have no fuel to the fuel rail. All grounds are good. If it were an ECM issue, bypassing the relay should still kick the pump on. I’m at a loss now. Any suggestions?
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2003 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.8L This is my first post on any kind of forum but I am desperate for answers because I am unable to find info anywhere else online. Today I had my instrument cluster fixed by a guy who says he has done several. The gear indicator, oil pressure gauge, and the backlighting were not working properly. When I went to pick up my truck today he explained to me that everything was working except the fuel gauge. The gauge has worked with no problem until today. He claims that the fuel gauge is not getting a good connection because it has a bad lead, which I've never heard of. The gauge starts to bounce a little when I turn the key on but stops after about 3 seconds or so, which tells me it's getting power. He replaced the stepper motor with a new one. Any ideas on what it could be? I put a full tank of gas in it after I discovered it wasn't working
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Having some drivability issues, then got a CEL which showed a code #44 O2 lean. Fuel Pressure showed 10psi. Pinching return line didn't yield any increase in pressure. Diagnosing a dying pump I decided to upgrade to an EP381 to cover any future mods. I may have around 250rwhp now (see sig), would like around 350hp when I have more time to play. Can you outline, or provide the thread covering adjusting/modifying the OE pressure reg (for the EP381)? I will be installing my Holley TBI later - I understand that has an adjustable press reg which should be straightforward to adjust? I prob only need about 14 - 15psi with my current light mods. Thanks -
This is my first post and I'm new here. I have a '07 ext cab Silverado, 4.8, 96,000 miles, non-flex fuel, LT, 2WD, 3.23 rear, in Tennessee. The problem started one day when I left a traffic light. I took off and when it reached around 10 mph, it dumped out and then picked back up as if it was out of gas, which I thought it was. It was very low on fuel. I stopped and got some gas but the problem persisted and got worse. I thought I had let the fuel level get low enough to pick up some trash from the bottom of the tank. I've done this before and it clogged up the fuel filter. But, alas, there is no serviceable fuel filter on this truck. I continued driving it with the sputtering/dumping/hesitation/whatever you call it. It feels like you hit the throttle and then once it starts going you've turned the key off. But it picks back up. I finally got a "check engine" light so I pulled the 3 DTC's, which were all fuel pump related, one being the fuel pump relay, which I changed. Cleared the codes, they came back with a vengeance, so I exposed the fuel tank from the top. Back in the day, I could pull the bed off a Silverado with one other person and set it on the ground. This truck has a heavy bed, plus I had no immediate help, so I devised a slick way to slide the bed back three feet by using a couple of 4 ft 4x4 posts and two pieces of 6 ft. conduit, but that's for another post, I guess. Anyway, I pulled the pump, set the pick up in a can of gasoline and wired it straight to the battery. It made way more noise than I thought it would make, plus it barely trickled gasoline out the supply. So I disassembled the rack and cleaned everything to where it all looked like new and tried the straight wire thing again. Same result, so I ordered a new Delphi fuel pump assembly and waited three days for it to show. Hey, $256 vs. $526 at my local dealer is worth a three day wait to me. In the meantime I dropped the spare tire and pulled the plug and cleaned all the terminals of the harness junction and verified a good ground. Got the new pump and installed it. The truck cranked right up and throttled up just as it should, so I put the whole thing back together and went for a test drive. It did the dump out thing almost immediately but not nearly as bad. Also, it doesn't just buck once. It felt like you were trying to break a horse, as if someone was driving and going from no throttle to wide open throttle and back again. If you barely used any throttle at all, it would almost act normally so I knew the problem was in the fuel delivery. However, within ten minutes the engine had sputtered to the point that I barely got it back in to my driveway. Now it will not crank. Fuse, relay and fuel pump have been changed. Ground and wiring are good, but I'm about to put it on jack stands and recheck the ground because I have a funny feeling about it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I rebuild muscle cars from frame off and everything in between so I'm the guy that has never taken a car to a dealer or a repair shop for anything. My day job is as a Network Engineer so I was one of the few that welcomed the auto computer age so that doesn't scare me either. I will say, though, that this truck requires some searching if you're looking for something like a relay. Thanks in advance for any help. -
Is a very known topic that the Vortec spider injection system is prone to leak inside the intake and has problematic poppet valves I found exactly that being the problem of all my misfire codes and rough running issues replaced the spider injection with new current updated part which gives actual fuel injectors at the bottom of each tube my system now stores and holds pressure without hardly any leak down.. Now the real question I read everywhere that fuel pressure on vortex should be 6265 psi at Prime and full running condition or else vehicle will not start this is false! My vehicle now runs and starts at turn of key exactly the way it should and I am only producing 45 to 50 psi at prime and runninG..Fuel pump is one year old and the new fuel injection spider system is 3 days old so fuel pressure regulator is also knew as it comes part of the new injection system..When plugging off the vent back fuel line my pressure tags out the gauge so I know my fuel pump is capable of producing 90 psi or higher. So why am I only producing 45 - 50 psi in my normal operation?..I have absolutely no leak down pressure and holds solid and firm at 45 psi for a long time after the key is turned off I also have 12 volts or more at the pump and confirmed all good grounds..Any takers on this one?..The truck runs and starts very well but I can still feel a slight miss not a complete smooth rhythm so I feel it may be due to the low fuel pressure..What does map sensor have anything to do with fuel pressure regulation seeing how the fuel regulator is inside the intake manifold on the spider injection system using internal engine vacuum to operate and MAP sensor reads these values?
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Of course my first post would be a trouble shooting question right. So ive got a 97 5.7 vortec, new starter, alternator, fuel pump and filter. a while back i started having issues getting my truck to start if the engine was warm and i had turned it off. usually quick trips to the store were ok but as soon as my engine gets to temperature it wont start. ideas of where to start looking. -
Hi guys, I LOVE suburbans, this is my 5th, but I have a problem that is stumping me. 1999 GMC Suburban 1500 4x4, Vortex 350, 248000.Automatic ( engine rebuilt 87000 miles ago) LOCATION: top of a mountain in Colorado, no garage or cement to work on, drive 14 miles a day on rough road base. PROBLEM: Installed AirTech ( yeah I know) 2 yrs. ago. ran well until 6 wks. ago. Died. replaced with Delphi, drove 2 weeks,DIED. Installed another, 2 weeks, DIED, Installed another, DIED after about 2 weeks, Installed ANOTHER, yep died. Getting ready to install another. ( yes I did cut a hole in my back deck to access pump) SYMPTOMS: Historically will start immediately ( 3/4 cranks max), when going bad will take longer to start or not start at all. Mostly happens after sitting over night, once started (warm) seems to continue starting. No odor of gas. Mileage has stayed about the same. When driving ( 0 -80 mph) no noticeable problems ( stuttering, lack of power, missing) Tank looks excellent after inspection- have gone through over 200 gallons since this started, NEVER under a half tank of fuel. Procedures completed: installed 5 NEW, under warranty Delphi's. Replaced fuel pump relay, replaced in line fuel filter ( on frame), replaced pig tail from pump to wiring harness ( 4 times), replaced distributor cap. ( all within last 2 months) Checked and cleaned ground from pump to frame. Had another fellow check voltage at pigtail. ( said it looked correct) Any ideas? I really don't want to take off the manifold to replace the fuel pump pressure regulator. Please speak English when leaving replies, I'm not great with voltage meters.
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I replaced the fuel pump in the tank of my 07 Yukon xl yesterday due to a check valve that wouldn't retain fuel pressure after being parked for a few hours. The truck usually took two tries to start. Now that I have that problem seemingly taken care of, I have two warning lights coming on. It fluctuates between stabiltrac and traction control and then both will go out. It causes a hard shift between 1st and 2nd when the light is on. But then the light will go out and everything is back to normal. Happens with the car idling in park and while driving. I have read that somehow the throttle body can cause this, but I'm wondering if it is possible for my new fuel pump to cause the problem as well.
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Hi, I have a 2005 Yukon XL 5.3 liter. I replaced the fuel pump two months ago due to a pressure issue (having to start twice to get it to start). Everything went fine with the installation and for the last two months all worked fine. My Wife filled her tank up 3 days ago and the gas gauge went well beyond full (See Pic). The computer range works fine. After a couple of days it looks like the gauge goes down but when its empty it shows half a tank (see picture). Anyone have any idea what the problem is. I disconnected the battery hoping it might reset but that didn't work. I don't think its the sending unit since the computer (miles til empty) is working. http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab45/iam4uf_2009/614f725c-4ef7-4d56-89ae-f7392c6dd993_zpst0fzctot.jpg http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab45/iam4uf_2009/IMG_22711_zps00yrc7sz.jpg
