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Looking for some wisdom here. I have a 2002 Silverado 2500 HD 6.0 LQ4 with a 4l80. Backstory: I blew the engine at around 200k miles and just replaced it. I figured while i was at it, I might as well replace the torque converter as well. NOTE, I had no issues with the old torque converter or the 4l80. It shifted smoothly consistently. I got this torque converter for the 4l80: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/pro-king-automatic-transmission-remanufactured-torque-converter-gm88h/10011464-p?product_channel=local&store=9892&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=9892&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiArLyuBhA7EiwA-qo80JeskOfw5S1-A-xYYUBwIeJOBIBiQn3lfeBvRNIgPmm54JJ2XL0oDBoCPgMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds It's a remanufactured 4l80 Torque converter with a 2200-2400 stall which I believe it a bit more than stock. It got installed properly, filled with about 1.3 quarts atf before installation but has been giving me issues since. Upon start up, the converter slips with a bit of a shudder before shifting into first gear and continues to slip in first gear if anything more than a gentle push on the gas pedal is used. However, after about 10 minutes of driving, this goes back to normal and it will get into first just fine unless it's on a steep hill. The converter still revs up and slips as it goes into 2nd, third or 4th gear somewhat but I think that may be due to the slightly higher stall... Anyway, I wondered if it could be due to the computer learning the new converter and put about 150 miles on the truck but it still does the same on startup. As far as I know, I didn't loose fluid during the torque converter change but I'm planning on changing the transmission fluid this weekend to see if it helps. Does this ring a bell with anyone's experience? I'm not a professional mechanic but something seems wrong here. Is it a faulty remanufactured converter or does it sound like user error. As far as I can tell, none of the slippage is due to the transmission. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to pull the 4l80 to replace the converter but will if that's what's needed. Thanks

Just curious if anyone has the same issue I've been having. So on the very first shift of the day from 3-4 my trans seems to slip into gear. After the initial run through the gears it shifts great every single time after that. I have real basic stuff done to my 14 Sierra..cold air intake, cat back exhaust and blackbear tune (yes the trans was tuned). It really seems to be temperature related because it gradually got worse the colder the nights get (I live in the northeast). And no matter how long I let the truck warm up before I drive it, it does the slip but only 1 time. Not sure if this is also related but the tuner said the torque converter locks after the shift into 4th gear.

Hello guys & lady mechanics, I’m in the process of replacing my rear disc brakes, it has 4Wheel anti loc disc brakes. I have the rear rotors with the interior surface for the parking brake shoes. I have new rear backing plates and hardware. But I noticed a little bit of a runout in the axles, I’m assuming it’s normal bearing wear. It has 175,000 miles on it. Plus the brake lines rusted and caused a pedal to the floor issue for me, so I replaced every single brake line with all new stainless steel lines, and new brake hoses. It has new rotors and pads upfront. What I’m trying to find out, since it’s a 14 Bolt GM differential in the rear, what exactly do I have??? 1) Is it a 9 1/2 inch ring gear, 14 bolt rear end, or is it a 10 1/2 inch ring gear 14 bolt rear end? Where can I find this out. I need to order bearings and seals, and a pinion seal which is leaking. which is my next question, 2) how do I determine what size my pinion seal is before I order one? O’Reilly shows 8 options 3) Last question is, I’m assuming I’m going to have to pull the cover, remove the locking pin for the limited slip differential, and push the axle in, pull the retaining clip, and pull the entire axle out to get to the seals and bearings, correct? My plan is to put a new B&M aluminum differential cover and fresh fluid once this is all done… Lastly I wish I would’ve found this side or search prior to doing my brakes, I would’ve found out that GM was offering half off To replace all new brake lines for $500. It’s done now though. Happy holidays you’ll Dave