My 2017 GMC Sierra is now riding on 35” tires. Is there a calibrator that will make my speedometer read the correct speed? However I don’t want to add a tuner or to change the factory computer settings. I thought I read somewhere that there’s a calibrator that plugs into the OBD port and doesn’t leave any trace of ever being there if I unplug it from the OBD port.
I installed the power for the cab marker lights today. As mentioned in my part 1 post the connector for powering the cab marker lights at the passenger fuse panel is not powered. I had to tap off the wire powering the clearance lights on the tow mirrors. I found that wire at the mirror connector under the passenger door panel. From there I snaked the wire through the door connector and into the interior. Once inside I wanna able to run the wire to the fuse panel. I cut off the power (purple) wire at the cab marker light harness by the fuse panel and spliced it to the wire I just ran from the mirror connector. I was so anxious to try it for the first time. I turned on the headlights, went out and saw that all the lights work. The effort was well worth it in my opinion. The truck now looks like how a truck should look. It’s a mystery why they don’t offer cab marker lights in the 1500 trucks.
If your main reason for adding a leaf is to add cargo capacity you might want to consider adding air bags like the ones from Air Lift. You. An air them down when unloaded and pump them up as needed depending on payload. Adding a leaf will set your rear higher. Don’t know if you having your truck with a raked stance? I prefer my truck riding level....
So I finally got around to installing the cab marker lights on my 2017 GMC 1500 Sierra SLE. I had spent some time researching and buying the necessary parts. I didn’t want to use aftermarket parts so I bought only GM parts. I have to first mention that in a lot of other posts I’ve read either on here or other forums that people would buy a harness and only use the two wires associated for powering the cab marker lights. It is too difficult a job to try and integrate the bought harness with the harness in your truck. All the posts that I have read the harness that people bought was a harness that has wiring for the cab marker lights as well as othe circuits. It seems like a waste to spend over $100 for the harness and just use two wires from it. I found a part number for a harness that only has the cab marker light circuit. Its GM part number: 23170765. The price of the harness was approx. $57. So the first thing I had to do for the actual install was to figure out where the lights get mounted on the roof. I found a drawing from another forum showing the dimensions of how the lights get mounted on the roof. The odd thing about these lights from GM is they mount through 3/4” square holes. So I made a template for each light. Laid out some tape on the roof and traced out where each light should get mounted and the located of each hole the needs to be cut out. That old saying measure twice cut once applies here !! I must have spent close to an hour measuring and re-measuring the position of the templates. After I figured the location of where the holes were to be cut the next step was to go inside and drop the front of the headliner. The first step was to remove the sun visors. They’re secured with three Torx T20 screws. There’s also a T20 screw holding down the catch for the sun visor. Next I removed the overhead console. To remove it first flip down the sunglasses holder and grab the center of the overhead console and pull it down. Once that is down there are two Torx T10 screws holding the rest of the overhead console up. Once those two screws were removed grab the overhead console at the rear and pull it down. There are two clips at the rear holding it up. Undo the connector for the overhead console. The next step was to remove the A-pillar grab handles. Pop two covers to reveal the two 10mm bolts. Remove the bolts and the panel should just pull out. The next items to remove are the assist handles on the roof. Pop open to two plastic covers to reveal two 8mm bolts. Remove the bolts and the handles should just pull out. Now the most frightning part - making the first cut in the roof !!! I was so nervous about cutting open my one year old truck. But I did it. I took my Dremel tool with a small cutoff wheel and started to make the cuts. I kinda felt sick; like my nads just went up into my body. At this point I was committed. No turing back. After making the first cut the rest of them wasn’t too bad. I had to file out the holes to get them looking decent and measuring 3/4”. It’s better to cut smaller than to cut too big. I couldn’t believe I just cut four holes on the roof of my truck. After cutting each hole I took some colour match touch up paint to the edge of each cut. As the paint dried I routed the harness from the passenger side fuse panel up along the passenger A-pillar and along the forward of the roof. As the first coat of touch up paint dried I applied a second coat. The harness got zip tied to the truck’s original harness. After the paint had dried I put a bead of marine grade silicon around the perimeter of the opening of each cutout just to make sure I won’t get any water leakage into the interior. I tightened each cab marker light with a 10mm deep socket and connected the light connectors to the harness. Next the interior was put back together in reverse of how it was taken apart. I haven’t yet connected power to the lights. In a previous post I made it was discovered that the connector in the fuse panel where the harness gets connected to doesn’t have power at the pins (pin 3). My next step is to tap the power for the cab marker lights from the clearance marker lights from my tow mirrors. Thats going to be part 2. I’ve had enough today. I was working out in the hot sun and am now burnt behind my neck, and it’s dinner time soon. To be continued......
That’s what I was afraid of and was hoping not to hear. As mentioned I was reading how someone installed the cab marker lights in his truck by just taping into this circuit in the fuse panel. Msybe the pin has voltage only in the 2500/3500 trucks( ??).
I’m in the process of installing cab marker lights on my 2017 GMC 1500 Sierra SLE. From my research there’s a connector that’s located in the passenger side fuse panel where the cab marker harness connects to for power and ground. I believe it’s pin 1 for ground and pin 3 for power. I connected a voltmeter to those pins and am not measuring any voltage when my parking lights are turned on. Can someone tell me if there should be power at these pins even though the 1500 trucks never came with cab marker lights. From some articles I read it should be plug and play. Is there a fuse for this circuit? How can I find out where the voltage to these pins come from?
I plan on installing cab marker lights and was wondering how to remove the headliner. I don’t need to actually remove the whole headliner but just need to drop the front enough to access hooking up the wiring harness. How do the visors and overhead console get removed ? And is there anything else I need to be aware of when dropping the front of the headliner ?
OK I know there will be a lot of people that will hate what I’m going to do but I plan on installing cab marker lights on my 2017 GMC Sierra 1500. I’ve always felt like it should be an option on the 1500 trucks as we do also pull trailers over 8’ in width. Anyways I was wondering if anyone has done this? I’m looking for information on where to take the power from to illuminate the lights. I don’t want to tap into the front side marker lights. I want to do a proper clean install. I’m sure there’s a spot somewhere on some wire harness I can tap into. Help please....
Sour_Squirrel replied to JRaschke11's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra 1500Here’s mine. It’s a 2017 that I bought brand new in March. It has a few mods done to it which I have no regrets doing. The truck hasn’t given me any of the troubles you read about in this forum.
The tires are 35x12.5x20 Toyo AT2’s. I don’t care about muscle car like acceleration. What I do care about is decent acceleration, and maintaining speed uphill, while trailering my boat. My 17 foot boat probably weighs just over 3000 lbs loaded. Yes that’s well under the rated tow capacity but what people don’t understand is parasitic drag, not just weight, affects the towing performance. I am also planning on buying a bigger boat in the next two years. Hopefully a 20-21 ft fishing boat. The boat, motor and trailer I’m thinking about will bring the total weight to about 5500-6000 lbs. So that’s why I was asking if swapping in 3.73 (or 4.10) gears would be a good mod to do for towing and for decent fuel mileage (daily driver).
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