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Found 2 results

  1. Short version: 2018 silverado 2500 6.0 intermittently misfiring on bank 1. Holes 1/3/5/7. Changed 02 sensors, plugs. coils, catalytic converters, spark plugs. Once the truck is above 1300rpm or so, it doesn't misfire at all. Cannot seem to find any relation between whether ambient temperature is hot or cold or when engine temperature is hot or cold. Long version: Hey Y'all, I bought a used 2018 Silverado 2500 with a 6.0 L96 "G" about a month ago. Used from a sales lot. 160km (100,000 miles.) After driving about 200 highway miles or so, I was at a red light, and it was idling (burbling and chugging) a little weird. When I went to leave the red light, the engine was a bit hesitant, but once above 1200rpm or so, it drove fine. Over the next few days, It did the same thing intermittently and ended up throwing some codes: P0420: Catalyst system low efficiency P0137 H02S Circuit Low voltage sensor 2 P2097 Post catalyst fuel trim system high limit bank 1 P2099 Post catalyst fuel trim system high limit bank 2 P0300 random/multiple misfire. However, once rolling, it performs fine with no drama. The dealer gave me a 2 year unlimited mileage powertrain warranty through a 3rd party company. The warranty company does not pay for diagnostic work, just part changing and part cost. In order to get this warranty, I agreed to do oil change/spark plugs/air filter. For peace of mind, I ordered new 02 sensors (2 up 2 down) 8 new plugs (stock replacements) ignition coils and ignition wires. Once the parts came in, I got underneath and changed the 02 sensors. It looks like they had been changed at some point because they were aftermarket sensors. I started the truck up and cleared the codes. It ran fine for 10 minutes. I had my fiancée come out to back the truck out of the garage (I was filthy) and as soon as it went in reverse, it started idling like dog sh** and stalled out. I started it up again and we coerced it out of the garage. At this point I was tired and cranky (up for 24 hours with 12 hours of work in there.) I was in no mood to carry on with working on it. I took it to a shop and we plugged the Gucci Snap on scanner into the truck. It showed it was misfiring on 1/3/5/7. All bank 1. Bank 2 was fine. The mechanic/shop owner and I decided to have the coils/plugs/wires changed and see what happens. He called me later that evening and said the truck was running like a top. He had his datalogger on and it hadn't recorded a single misfire. I went to the shop and saw the truck had been running for about 40 minutes without recording a misfire. Drove it 10 minutes to a friend's house and had dinner. It worked fine. No idle or low RPM acceleration issues. When I left his house, I let the truck run for a minute and it started repeating it's prior behaviors. Did some studying at youtube university. Added a 2nd ground off of the coil harness to ensure it was grounding properly. No change. Cleaned MAF and throttle body, no change. Called some friends that are smarter than me. We concluded it may be the catalytic converter. While the truck wasn't short on any power.. It was a company truck (seemingly well maintained) that likely idled a lot. There are nearly 7000 hours on the truck. Not sure if that's high hours for the mileage. Took it to an exhaust shop and asked them to determine if the cat was pooched. They called me back and said it was. I did not ask how they determined this. Ordered a new set of Magnaflow cats (and a muffler for fun sounds.) Had them installed yesterday. Picked them up from the shop and the truck ran great. Today, it started doing the Harlem shake again. I'm guessing after this... It's got to be a wiring issue? Chafing somewhere? What makes me have a hard time believing it's electrical is that it is strictly RPM related. Idle to about 1300/1400 rpm. And intermittent. Once I'm cruising it's fine. If I am at a lower speed and the trans is in a gear where the RPM is low... it will (very seldom) struggle a little to build RPM. I've been using the gear selector a lot to keep the RPM's above 1400. I cannot seem to find a correlation between when the engine is hot/cold etc. If any of you have some insight, it would be greatly appreciated. This weekend a friend and I are going to hookup datalogger to check fuel trims, and also watch for misfires while wiggling harnesses and such. Have a great day! I'm about to lose my mind. This has been a slow process
  2. Hello, I have a 2017 Sierra SLT Crew Cab 6.2L with a Magnuson TVS1900 on it. The pulley and boost are stock from Magnuson, so probably 8psi max boost. I want/need to replace the spark plugs because I get a little bit of ping when really engaging the supercharger. The ping is very short and goes away, but it even does it with around a 94 octane (mixed 91 with 100). It is much, much better with the 94 octane, but it is still detectable. My questions are: 1) Should I get a one or two step colder plug? 2) Should I lessen the gap to 0.028in or 0.03in? 3) Should I get projected or non-projected tips? 4) THE BIG QUESTION, do I need to get the exact same size plug as the stock ACDelco 41-114 (aka GM part number 12622441)? The REACH is what seems to be different. I believe the stock plug specs are: Heat range: 16 Gap size: 0.04in (1.02mm) Reach: 0.98in (25mm) THIS IS WHERE THE NGK PLUGS DIFFER Hex size: M16 Insulator height: 0.99in (25.3mm) Seat: Tapered The plugs I am considering are Brisk (which have the SAME reach) and NGK (which have a DIFFERENT reach). Eight of the Brisk plugs is way more expensive than NGK. Brisk RR14YS - two steps colder, projected tip, 0.028in gap, same REACH as stock Brisk RR14S - two steps colder, non-projected tip, 0.03in gap, same REACH as stock Brisk RR15YS - one step colder, projected tip, 0.028in gap, same REACH as stock Brisk RR15S - one step colder, non-projected tip, 0.028in gap, same REACH as stock NGK BR7EF 3346 - two steps colder, non-projected tip, 0.28in gap, 0.709in (18mm) REACH which is different than stock NGK BR6EF 3177 - same but one step colder
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