btj_z71

You will likely get past 100k and not need new pads or rotors at any corner. If you tow frequently or are a spirited driver, then you *might* need a new pad or need the rotors turned at the front sometime after 100k. My 2014 had 99k miles when I traded it in and never had a brake job. When I change the brake fluid around 80k on that 2014, all pads had plenty of life remaining, and I was not getting any vibration from the rotors. Back to your original question - the Wagner OEx is good product.

Not needed until the temperature drops to 0 or below, or you are at a high elevation. It is listed in the diesel supplement. (See below) Living in southern Alabama, I've never had to use it with my LM2. https://my.gmc.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2021/gmc/multimodel/2021-3l-duramax-diesel-supplement.pdf

I'd recommend the Amsoil All-in-one additive. Never had any trouble with it in my LM2. https://www.amsoil.com/p/diesel-all-in-one-adb/

Yep, I did this exact upgrade on my old 2014 silverado. Easy to do at home. No worries on this.

Agreed - change the transfer case fluid and front diff at a minimum. Likely a good bit of metal shavings in there due to the friction of being on pavement.

I'd go get the Amsoil version. Is there some concern surrounding amsoil's dexosD equivalent?

I'm in a 2020 3.0L Duramax now, and would love to have the 2022 upgraded interior. But I think I'll save until the all electric silverado comes out and compare then.

Bosch has always been best for me

No help here, but the microchip shortage has impacted many folks. I am glad I got my LM2 when I did back in August 2020. The LM2 will be worth it though. That 3.0L Duramax paired with the 10-speed is really a dream powertrain. The MPG is great, I can tow and haul everything I need. For example, I rented RVs off of Rvshare.com and one was a 33ft trailer at 7900 lbs with two slides. The LM2 did a great job, especially with the 10-speed there. What I'm most excited to see is the durability of the 3.0L Duramax. I've got just under 11k miles now but I'm excited to get to the 150k mark eventually, and beyond.

I called the GM customer service line to get my sheet. 1-800-462-8782.

Check MAF sensor. Sounds like a sensor wasn't plugged in or is dirty. See if you or a buddy can pull an error code from the ODB port. If not, then you can try taking off the new intake and see if you get any errors with no intake (Just garage test, don't drive w/o a filter on there). If that works, then try putting on the stock or previous intake and see if you get any error. The idea here being to eliminate possibilities of error. I would imagine it's a sensor somewhere knocked loose.

Wagner makes a good product too. No concerns if you went with OEM.

Checkout crutchfield.com, they have great information on speaker upgrades. If all you want is more bass, then just adding a subwoofer would fix that. If your looking for overall sound quality, then the cost to upgrade all the speakers in the truck, it would just make more sense to take back your 2021 and ask for the same truck but with the Bose option. The reason I say this is, aftermarket speakers require more power than your stock head unit can produce. Thus, to get the best sound you would need to add an amplifier as well. Of course, the aftermarket speakers will work but the full benefit of the higher quality speakers would not be realized without the amplifier. Honestly, I just go back to the dealer and get one with Bose in it.

The s20 ultra fits. Not sure about s21. You can keep a short 1ft cable in your truck if it doesn't fit, the Silverado has a USB-C port right next to the wireless charger.

The refrigerant capacity and type is listed in your owners manual, on Google, and listed on your truck's radiator cover. Looks something like the attached image.

Looks good! Any MPG difference or difference in ride quality & handling.

Although not safe, you would probably be okay. The main difference between your truck and others with a higher tow rating is the 3.08 axle ratio. You've got the same engine and brakes and suspension, but that axle ratio is more for mpg than towing. Your truck with the 3.73 has a ~9k lbs tow rating. It'll be a struggle on the powertrain to get a heavy load moving and stay moving.

Sounds like MPG is your main concern. In that case, the 3.0L Duramax is the clear winner. My concern is your need for horsepower. I bet if you got behind the wheel of the 6.2L Silverado then you'd love it. Plenty of HP. Your unlikely to win many street races with the 3.0L Duramax. It's the quickest of all the three halfton diesels, but only 277hp. The torque is amazing, and so is the MPG. It's quiet, powerful, efficient, and comes paired with the 10-speed transmission, so it's also a smart and smooth powertrain. If you want to add performance to the 3.0L Duramax, there are a few cold air intakes available and Banks will soon release their Derringer diesel tuner for this engine too.

I would add here that you should use Top Tier gas. I didn't check to see if the stations you mentioned are top tier certified, but that gas has more detergents to keep your engine running better and longer. On the topic of octane, if you experience knocking then you can try running 89 vs 87. Or, whatever the mid-grade fuel type is in your location. Another option is using 87 then adding fuel additives to bring up the octane and/or detergents.

Fan not shutting off means you have too much refrigerant in the system. It could be as simple as a Schrader valve or something more serious like a condenser or compressor leak. I'd take it to a professional to have it checked for leaks. You could also use a AC leak detector kit with UV dye at home and check for leaks yourself if you like. However, with the high pressure and how much refrigerant you've added, I'd say there is a good chance is won't be a cheap repair. Likely looking around $1200-$1700.

Thanks yall. I remember the oil in my gas engines not turning black this quickly so I was just curious. Appreciate the feedback! The first oil change was free. Next oil change I will do myself and get Amsoil in there. Amsoil is all I ever used on my 2014 5.3L.

Thought oil pressure was low so when I got home I checked the level, level was fine. However, the oil was black. Dealer did the first oil change maybe 1500 miles ago (only 8900mi on it currently) and the oil is black already. Is that normal? I understand that the black color indicates the presence of carbon and is normal, and does not mean it needs to be changed simply based on color. It didn't smell burnt or "old" either. I really do not run this truck that hard and especially not so during the last 1500 miles. I'm just hoping someone can educate me on the world of diesel engine oil and differences vs gas engine oil. I would expect the oil not to be thorougly black after such a recent oil change.

I've seen a few cold air intakes available, but not heard of any feedback on them on here. However, the SBfilters CAI for the 3.0L Duramax has some great reviews. I also have the 3.0L Duramax and have been throughly impressed with it. Towing and hauling, MPG, the whole nine yards. I plan on getting the Banks Derringer soon as it's available, along with this CAI or similar to boost HP ratings and maybe gain a MPG or two. "Best Cold Air Intake for Silverado / Sierra 1500 3.0 Duramax 2020-2021" https://www.sbfilters.com/cold-air-intakes/silverado-sierra-1500-duramax-3-0-intake-75-5137?variant_id=712

Get a set of Roadmaster Active Suspension. I added the HD version to my 2020 3.0L Duramax, and it's great. I was towing more weight than thay recently with two different travel trailers. You are under the max tow rating certainly so no worries there. Of course as you add weight to the rear the suspension will compress, it will not remain level. You could try a weight distribution hitch if needed.

My 2014 had the the same thing happen when it had less than 10k miles. It was around $9k and took about 7 business business days at a specialty shop. Same case as yours, I was read ended, hitch and bumper bent down, thus bending the frame. I drove that truck up to 99k miles until I traded it in. Not once did I have any problems due to the frame replacement. What they do essentially is put your new frame on one side of the shop and your truck next to it, and then start swapping parts. I wouldn't worry too much, but a few things to make sure of. Use a shop that your insurance trusts and is approved by them. Ensure you understand the warranty on the repair and what to do if any issues arise. Once you get the truck home after it has been repaired, dedicate time to look over everything, and I mean everything. Push every button, test every light, try all gears, engage 4wd, test the radio, check the AC and heat, check that the body lines are lined up, look in the engine bay and check connections and fluid levels, etc.... Definitely fight to get your diminished value claim filed and lawyer up if they refuse to pay.