Thanks for the response, and especially the pics! Your truck is actually very similar to where I'm hoping to take my truck (even same color), and it's been hard to find pictures of the look I'm going for (including black bowtie and grill mesh), so you posting them has really helped me see what it might look like when it's done.
Thanks for your input/opinion. I did read most of this thread several months ago when I decided to do my 2" level, but I mostly soaked up info related to the mod I was looking at at that time. Hence, me just posting a question about a 3" level or additional upgrades, rather than reading the entire thing again. Again, thanks for the input.
Now that I have my 2" level installed, I've been shopping casually for tires/wheels online and looking at other trucks out on the road and in parking lots. I was doing some work on the truck last weekend and had the back end lift up so there was almost no weight on the wheels, so the frame and body were several inches higher than normal. My wife came out and said "when are you going to do that to your truck?" "Lift it like that?" I asked. "Yes, that's what I thought you were going to do. You should do that." So my wife planted this idea about going up higher and now I'm starting to agree. I started looking at 3" front and 1" or 2" rear leveling kits with control arms. I watched a youtube video and didn't realize how easy the control arm swap is if you're already in there doing a leveling kit. So while the 2" level was fun and got my feet wet, I'm thinking now I may want to go a little bigger. A couple of questions: 1. With a 3" front level and new control arms, how big can I go with tires? Does that allow you to go bigger than 33" (305's)? 2. Everyone seems to be sold out of control arms right now...? Which are the best to go with (assuming they are available)? 3. What would be the "next level" after a 3/1 or 3/2 leveling kit and control arms? Shock upgrade? At what point should I consider that vs level kits?
I'm curious about this as well. My truck sits perfectly level with a 2" kit up front. But on uneven ground or with any load in the back I get some squat. I added Hellwig 990 helper springs, and they definitely improved the ride with a load, but didn't get rid of the squat like I expected. I was toying with the idea of going .5 or 1 inch higher with a block in the back. Didn't see any blocks for a .5 inch lift though...
Springs and u bolt in question....
Another question - during installation I found that the rear end of the passenger side leaf springs are misaligned by about a quarter of an inch. I noticed it because it made it difficult to slide the rear u bolt over the springs, and the u bolt was sitting a little crooked. Is this normal, and will it cause any issues with the helper springs? Can I (or should I) try to get them back in line with a c-clamp or something?
Never mind. Directions say to lift the truck if necessary to get the outer u-boats started. Cant believe I missed it before...
Hey folks. I went to install my EZ 990 helper springs yesterday and had to abort once I realized a piece of hardware was missing. However, before I got to that point, I had the truck up in the air supported by the frame and the wheels off. When I did a test fit of the helper spring, the cupped ends of the spring were sitting very close to the factory springs (one end was almost within a 1/4 inch of the factory spring, which is where it's supposed to be if you have it tightened down to maximum preload). That got me thinking that maybe you are supposed to install with some weight on the wheels, so that when you "tighten it down to prevent noise and rattling when going over bumps", the springs are in a state that is representative of when you are driving. If I tightened it down to that point with no weight on the wheels, it seems as though there would be a huge preload on the springs once I lowered the truck back down. The directions from Hellwig start with chocking the wheels, but never mention lifting the vehicle. However, the directions end with "lower the vehicle back down", so the directions from Hellwig are also a little confusing about whether their should be weight on the wheels or not. I have looked at you tube, but didn't find a silverado install. The videos for Ford and Dodge see to show it being done both ways... I was able to get the missing hardware from Pep Boys this morning, so I'm hoping to do the install today in the next hour or two (going camping on Thursday and want these on and ready before we go). Can anyone help clarify whether or not I want any weight on the rear wheels when doing the install?
Thanks for all the good info folks.
Bumping my previous question about separating the mesh from the grill...
Can anyone tell me if the mesh portion of the grill can be unclipped and removed from the grill frame without damage, or do they all need to stay together as one piece? Still trying to figure out how I want to move forward, and whether or not I can get the mesh separated safely from the rest of the grill will affect which way I go (both in terms of painting my existing grill and possible grill swaps). Thanks.
Ya, that's pretty much what I'm looking for. For some reason I didn't think to check Craigslist. I just found a full chrome grill for $150 down the street, so I bet if I check back every few days I might find one with the black inserts. I'll probably either do that or try the $100 clip-in inserts on ebay that I can just paint black.
Thanks. GM parts direct was a good suggestion. However, they still don't seem to sell those grill inserts separately. It looks like maybe I could by a black work truck grille assembly for about $200, in which case I could try and pull the black inserts out and swap them. But I'm not sure if that $200 solution is better than those inserts I linked above and a can of black paint. I'll keep looking around...
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