Springs and u bolt in question....
Another question - during installation I found that the rear end of the passenger side leaf springs are misaligned by about a quarter of an inch. I noticed it because it made it difficult to slide the rear u bolt over the springs, and the u bolt was sitting a little crooked. Is this normal, and will it cause any issues with the helper springs? Can I (or should I) try to get them back in line with a c-clamp or something?
Never mind. Directions say to lift the truck if necessary to get the outer u-boats started. Cant believe I missed it before...
Hey folks. I went to install my EZ 990 helper springs yesterday and had to abort once I realized a piece of hardware was missing. However, before I got to that point, I had the truck up in the air supported by the frame and the wheels off. When I did a test fit of the helper spring, the cupped ends of the spring were sitting very close to the factory springs (one end was almost within a 1/4 inch of the factory spring, which is where it's supposed to be if you have it tightened down to maximum preload). That got me thinking that maybe you are supposed to install with some weight on the wheels, so that when you "tighten it down to prevent noise and rattling when going over bumps", the springs are in a state that is representative of when you are driving. If I tightened it down to that point with no weight on the wheels, it seems as though there would be a huge preload on the springs once I lowered the truck back down. The directions from Hellwig start with chocking the wheels, but never mention lifting the vehicle. However, the directions end with "lower the vehicle back down", so the directions from Hellwig are also a little confusing about whether their should be weight on the wheels or not. I have looked at you tube, but didn't find a silverado install. The videos for Ford and Dodge see to show it being done both ways... I was able to get the missing hardware from Pep Boys this morning, so I'm hoping to do the install today in the next hour or two (going camping on Thursday and want these on and ready before we go). Can anyone help clarify whether or not I want any weight on the rear wheels when doing the install?
Thanks for all the good info folks.
Bumping my previous question about separating the mesh from the grill...
Can anyone tell me if the mesh portion of the grill can be unclipped and removed from the grill frame without damage, or do they all need to stay together as one piece? Still trying to figure out how I want to move forward, and whether or not I can get the mesh separated safely from the rest of the grill will affect which way I go (both in terms of painting my existing grill and possible grill swaps). Thanks.
Ya, that's pretty much what I'm looking for. For some reason I didn't think to check Craigslist. I just found a full chrome grill for $150 down the street, so I bet if I check back every few days I might find one with the black inserts. I'll probably either do that or try the $100 clip-in inserts on ebay that I can just paint black.
Thanks. GM parts direct was a good suggestion. However, they still don't seem to sell those grill inserts separately. It looks like maybe I could by a black work truck grille assembly for about $200, in which case I could try and pull the black inserts out and swap them. But I'm not sure if that $200 solution is better than those inserts I linked above and a can of black paint. I'll keep looking around...
Sorry for responding to my own post so quickly, but I just found these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-2015-Chevy-Silverado-1500-CHROME-Snap-On-Grille-Overlay-Grill-Insert-Covers/380959620225?fits=Year%3A2015|Model%3ASilverado+1500&epid=2248877844&hash=item58b2f67c81:g:DJ0AAOSwEK9T0pP9:sc:UPSGround!92040!US!-1 Could I get something like this and try plasti-dip or just matte black paint? Then if it doesn't work I'm only out $100 and restoring my truck is as easy as just popping this cover back off...
Hello folks. I am interested in toning down the chrome on the front of my truck and am looking at getting black grille inserts. My truck currently has the chrome mesh (image attached). I STRONGLY prefer the look of OEM black grilles (either the mesh I have in black, or the simple horizontal grill that you see on a lot of Z71), but I am having a really hard (if not impossible time) finding just grille inserts that match that look. I either find entire grille assemblies (including the framing and bowtie, and usually with the frame matching a body color) which run several hundred dollars, or after market inserts that have a very dense mesh that doesn't really look anything like the black OEM grills. There are also some products that are meant to go over a chrome grill to tone down the chrome look, but I don't really like those. Am I not looking for the right thing (using the right search terms), or is it really that hard to find just the grill inserts that are similar to the OEM ones? On a related note, what do people think about plasti-dipping in a situation like this? It looks like I can pop my existing mesh grill insterts out of the grill with a few tabs and get a black grill for the cost of a few cans of plasti-dip. But I have read such polarizing opinions on plasti-dip (I've never done it myself). I'm curious if anyone thinks this is a good application for it or not...?
LOL. Thanks. My wife thinks I'm crazy to obsess over this stuff (maybe I am). But at least I'm not the only one. I'll look into the thermometer. What about when you start up and idle? How long before the air gets cold?
How long does it usually take for your AC to start blowing cold air after you turn it on, let's say if your truck's been in the sun for a few hours? I feel like it's not getting cold as fast as it used to after I turn the truck on and let it idle, but I honestly didn't pay that much attention to it before. Cools fine once I'm moving, and it does eventually get cold when just idling, but can take 15-30 seconds depending on how hot it is outside and if it's been in the sun. Is that normal? ... I'm paranoid about AC problems now...
I'll add myself to the list of folks with this issue. 2015 with just over 32K miles on it (within warranty miles but outside the 3yrs). Wednesday of last week lost my AC. I looked through the grill and could see the leak on the condenser. Was going to be $150 just to have the dealer look at, or $90 at a mechanic I've recently found and like. Went with the local shop. The $90 was applied to the $730 total for condenser replacement. The PN on the invoice is WP 84496856.
Got my alignment done yesterday, so I'm good to go now. The toe was quite a bit off, but everything else was in spec. Again, I'm really happy with how the 2" level turned out. Exactly the look I was going for. If anyone has input on my question from my previous post, it would still be appreciated. I'm still curious how much pushing/pulling/prying/swearing is "ok" on this type of project and at what point it means you're not doing something right. edit - or do I have it backwards? If you not doing much pushing/pulling/prying/swearing, then it means you are not doing something right?
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