I'm experiencing the same vibration and found the issue to be the mounting of catch can to brake booster. Now looking for a better place to put the can. Where did you end up mounting it? Overall, UPR can kit is great just fixing this bothersome detail. Funny, I also ran CRC cleaner prior to installing can and thought I had somehow messed up the engine...
ONLY negative issue of this installation is that after mounting the catch can on the brake booster, I started getting a vibration in the brake and gas pedals. After unmounting the can from booster, the vibration went away; so temporarily have it secured to upper rad hose as I need to find somewhere else to mount. After searching online, I have found other people experience this vibration as well. Fortunately, UPR stated they can send longer hoses, if needed, to relocate the catch can. Doea anyone have a mounting location that would require drilling a hole?
The stock intake tube/resonator is not too bad as you can see it fairly smooth except for the flex section. I was surprised to see that it sort of has "catch" areas where the fittings from the valve covers plug into box in an attempt to slow carbon/sludge build up (I assume). When looking at the the wetness inside the intake, I tilted stock tube when some oily residue dripped out. So hopefully the UPR kit will keep me clean for the years to come. Prior to install, I put in a can of CRC GDI Intake cleaner to make sure everything is clean as possible. If anyone runs a intake cleaner, you can place plastic hose thru the manifold port where PCV would fit as it's perfectly placed in middle of manifold and should eventually disperse cleaner (see last pic thru throttle body)
Complete install of Airaid intake & filter and UPR catch can & CSS took me about 30 mins at a "take your time" speed. I also put a trace film of silicone grease on all fittings that had O rings to prevent seized parts later. UPR kits easily installs with its plug n play connection.
Airaid kit quickly installs with a smooth out intake tube and high-flow filter media. You reuse the stock box which is suffice and already is cold air with inflow come from fender. There is slight increase of "intake" growl that I find enjoyable without the loud drone. TIP: carefully tighten the plastic fittings into the intake tube as I broke one by accident and had to put lots of plastic-weld to make it work.
Hello everyone! Finally installed my UPR can and Airaid intake last week and wanted to give some feedback to anyone interested in something similar. Back story is that we bought a 2018 Yukon XL Denali in Dec then had all lifters n cam replaced 2 weeks after due to dreaded tick on engine with 33k miles. As tech said internals are clean, I decided to go with a can to protect investment especially aftering asking tech and service manager about them and its impact on the warranty. They stated as long as warranty claim isn't affected by catch can, there wouldn't be any issue. Anyways here's some pics of the installation (plenty of videos are available to walk you through it) The UPR kit is well designed for a clean and OEM look.
Thanks for the feedback!!! Got next to an Escalade and sure enough its headlights are same shape yet bigger... damn it. After checking out reviews on D3S, it seems Osram Night Breaker Laser and Philips XV2 are the only bulbs that put more lux than stock. As for highs, still thinking of Morimoto 3.0 LED. However, you planted the seed of just getting the Morimoto XB complete units; especially when I consider the cost for the bulbs alone. I've searched for any review on those awesome XB LED headlights yet can't find any beside Morimoto's promo video. I'll hold off until some real world reviews/experience come back on their actual performance. Hopefully they'll be on sale soon too; along with their LED fog assembly. FYI, I got GTR Ultra LED in plate and reverse spots and boy what a difference in look/style as well as light output. Here's some pics for comparison:
Has anyone put the Cadillac's LED headlights into a Yukon? I've got a 2018 YukonXL Denali with HID's yet always liked the stacked LED look/output and, while expensive, thinking of offsetting some of the cost of the Caddy lights by selling the HID's... Otherwise, I'll just upgrade the lows D3S to Morimoto XB, high 2Stroke 3.0 LED(bought housing extension just in case back of bulb is too big for tock cap) and fogs HID XB all at 6k color temp all from TRS. Are anyone aware if a separate CANBUS capacitor/module needed for non-stock bulbs? Also getting GTR Ultra LED back up bulbs as it's hard seeing at night even with camera. Feel free to feedback if anyone has used these types of bulbs!
UPDATE These rubber bushings didn't last 3 months. After emailing and calling MOOG in an attempt to get the torque specs, the guy gave me the German spec of "Goodintite" without bulging bushing. I highly recommend purchasing these Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings (ENS-98126G) as they don't bulge prematurely like the rubber ones did prior to being properly tighten.
Hello GMers! These weekend I had to replace the 4 MOOG control arms that I had installed last June as the rubber bushings were really cracked and fraying after only 9 months. I had purchased them thru Summit Racing and they warrantied all four and sent out new ones. However when I inspected them, all of the ball joints boots had holes/slits. Luckily I live 15 minutes away from Summit warehouse and they swapped them out yet we went through 8 boxes to get good ones as many of BJ boots were torn straight out of the new unopened MOOG boxes. The service reps and I were really surprised as they are usually always top notch. The lower arms had the new intregal boots which seem to be a thinner rubber compared to old style and upper arms had the double bump beehive boots. With that, always double/triple check your BJ boots regards of brand! Since I was already working on the front end, I replaced both axles seals as they leaked, replaced CV axles as one had a torn boot and grease was getting flung everywhere and also the hubs even though they seemed to be good. The seals were ACDelco 22761722 and they came out easliy using a slide hammer (rented from AutoZone). I purchased two brands of CV axles (NAPA MaxDrive and A1Cardone) both were new and the heavy duty version and were borh the exact same meaning NAPA is rebranded A1Cardone. I called Cardone to inquire difference between regular & HD versions a the only difference is the HD a thermoplastic outer boots and thicker bands; thats it but worth it due to a small cost difference Top shaft is out of NAPA box and Cardone the bottom. As for the bearing hubs assemblies, I ended up going with Timken as they are Made in USA and are known for highly dependable and quality bearings. To my surprise as I remove the stock hubs, the OEM were Timken brand as seen on the wheel sensor and look identical to the new ones. Question: are your hub assemblies Timken as well? My '07 GMC 1500 Classic was made in Canada and I'm wondering if that matter compared to GM made in US ir Mexico. Does anyone know if we need to preload the control arms prior to torquing them to spec? None of the instructions in the boxes or online mentioned preloading which is getfing the arms bolts snug then jacking them up to the level/angle where they normal are at. I found that type if info on car sites and did the assembly that way as thay could have been why my arm bushing were torn up in less than 9 months. Sidenote, I fillled up my front diff with Royal Purple 75w90 gear oil and slightly over-filled as front was jacked up and in driveway. This caused me to freak out as the new seals were seeping out a bit but have now stopped. Also, I was able to rent all the unique tools I didnt have from AutoZone like the 200ft lb torque wrench (high for axle nuts), slide hammer (for seals n didnt damage axle housings at all), torsion bar unloader and front end axles sockets kit for the 36mm axle nut. Now this rig is ready for another 150k+ miles....
Just FYI, here are the part# for the all the steering components: ACDelco gear 19330495 (remanufactured) ACDelco pump 20756710 (new) ACDelco pressure line 36353260 (pump to gear) Dorman P/S cooler with lines 918301 (I removed the included worm gear clamps and used Fragola #6 crimp clamps #999156 as they hold up better given the heat/cooling cycles as P/S fluid get hot!) MOOG pitman arm K6536HD MOOG idler arm K6534HD & bracket K6723 MOOG lower control arms: Driver side CK620381 Passenger CK 620380 Uppers both sides same# CK80942 MOOG stabilizer end links K700539 MOOG cam bolts K100026 MOOG tie rods: ES3493T outer ES3488 inner I tried to upload a pic of the entire power steering system yet no able to resize it...
Hello GM truckers! Wanted to share my first write up in case someone would like to tighten up their steering by adding a stabilizer/dampener. Prior to installing this, I had recently finished replacing my entire front-end and steering system due to it being worn and loose. I go off-road almost on a daily basis (dirt roads, hill climbing, etc) yet do it with care; not bashing up my rig tho. With all new parts, the steering felt better than I've ever experienced and decided to add the stabilizer to aid with the minor bump-steer and dampen some of the feedback from the road. Is this a must-have part for everyone? No but it does help and at around $65, it's worth it. This might help mask some preexisting conditions yet not a cure all. I ordered the stabilizer (MOOG part# SSD94) thru Summit Racing and seems to fit GM trucks/SUV from early 1990's thru 2006 ('07 Classics like mine too). The box nor components have a brand label anywhere and the shock is white with blue boot not yellow as the website. Start by placing the front-end frame on jack stands as you'll need to turning the wheels in the air to ensure proper clearances and alignment. First ensure you have all the parts and install boot onto shock as it easier while it's out and slide about 5-6" of boot on as it's a little too long (you'll see when installed). Mount the frame bracket first (with existing slid plate bolt first) and mark where the second bolt will be drilled; only hole needed to be made. Before marking, make sure bracket is slid towards front of truck as much as possible to increase clearance between front diff. Drilling the hole was the longest process as I had to recharge my drill halfway as I used 4 bits to make the large hole into the tough frame steel. With frame bracket on, install shock using the washers & bushings provided. On the other end, install U-bolts onto steering center-link (two U-bolt sizes included). Snuggly tighten U-bolts about 1 inch from idler arm stud. Now install the other end of stabilizer to U-bolt clamp. Here is a crucial part and reason to have front on jack stands: 1st- turn wheel completely to right then go under to ensure the driver side knuckle hits the steering stop and make sure the boot isn't too stretched. 2nd - turn wheel completely to the left then go back under to make sure the passenger side knuckle hits the stop and here you'll notice why the boot is too long when compressed. During this process, you can slide the U-bolts clamp on the center-link to ensure it allows for full movement and once in the perfect spot, really tighten U-bolts. Now that everything is in place, tighten up all bolts and be careful not to over tighten the stabilizer bolts as you'll ruin the bushings. It's a tight fit yet no components rub or hit even when flexing the suspension.Do one last side to side test then take it to the road and enjoy your upgrade.
NVGMman changed their profile photo
Old thread yet still relevant. Like Westlotorn, I was also having a knocking that came from the lower part of the engine. Tried changing the oil, as I thought the zMax had made oil too thin, added Lucas oil stabilizer but no luck. Changed oil again then added Restore but still no luck. Decided to drop the pan suspecting it was a bad bearing. I was nervous to do so as I had never gone that deep into engine yet was not too bad, just time consuming. With my friend's help, we checked all the rod bearings (all good) and checked the oil O-ring on the pick up. Put back together thinking I was going to buy a new block as everything looked good but fortunately all noises were gone for good. Looking back, that o-ring was the culprit even though it looked good when I replaced it. When the knocking occurred, the ring must have been letting air into the system which explains why my low oil warning would come on even with the dipstick reading full. Frustrating what a headache a $2 rubber o-ring yet glad it's fixed. Side note, interals where very clean as I do my oil changes every 5k miles with high quality oils (depending on what's on sale at Autozone) and use a K&N HP2011 filter which is bigger than stock.
Hello y'all! I am a lifetime GM guy with first car a 97 Grand Prix GTP (totaled), 97 Chevy S10 ZR2 (drove to the wheels fell off!) and now a 2007 Sierra Classic Z71. Been using this website/forum for many years and decided to finally join. Thanks for all help everyone has provided and look forward to being a positive contributer. Best regards David
Who's Online 79 Members, 0 Anonymous, 3,486 Guests (See full list)
- Brendan Leep
- Jason Fichter
- Michael Ward
- Jiminy CriQet
- Dock Rocker
- Raven Z71