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x219c

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x219c last won the day on June 5 2018

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About x219c

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  1. Unfortunately, I’m headed to Ramsay MN this weekend. I live right off of a trail here in central Wisconsin, so when I get home and the cold snap is over I’ll get out here. The trails just opened this week. When I go riding “up north” here, I usually head to the Mountain, WI and Lakewood areas. But, I’m planning on setting something up with the brother in law over in Minnesota. Maybe Ramsay, MI would be a good place to head. I’m easily convinced by a great restaurant. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  2. This is all going to be stuff you already know... I’ll just play out how I’d think about it. If you don’t have a really compelling reason to keep the truck like towing a boat or something, it’s mostly a numbers game. Same goes for the other vehicle. If you are working towards a goal, see what gets you there faster. If you can come out with no payments on your car, that’s always nice. What is that car worth after paying it off? How about your truck? Are you losing a ton trading? I assume a lease has no real value locked into it besides you knowing the history on the vehicle. Your truck may have enough to purchase the leased vehicle. But after the deal is done, where are you left? Is owning the truck a better store of money than the car? I’d be looking that up. If the truck is worth 25k outright and the car is 20k.. you might be over paying for the car. On the other hand, if they’re pretty equal, maybe it makes more sense. If you’re trying to hit financial goals... Write down the numbers and look at it like a business decision. Sure, the other car may get better gas mileage. But if it’s only 5mpg, will it pay for itself very quickly? If it’s significantly cheaper to keep the truck, keep some of the money set aside for repairs. That can pay off too. If it’s cheaper to buy the leased car, maybe that’s not such a bad idea. You might even be able to sell the truck on the private market for a bit more. I haven’t been shopping lately, but I have heard there’s not a lot out there. I don’t know about the reliability of the transmission. If it was done right, I’d imagine it’s just as, if not more reliable than another one since it should have newer parts and fluid. But that’s a luck thing too. You could keep the other car and at 61k the tranny go on that too. Or the truck could go again. Or they both last to over 300k. You never really know. The third option is to get rid of both and find something even cheaper. I don’t know what kind of situation you’re in, but don’t let a vehicle control your finances. It’s all business. Who cares what you drive as long as it meets your needs? Make the cuts where you need to and get what you want again later. Good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  3. I did the same exact thing. I was able to find the plastic piece that broke and super glue it back together. It’s been holding for 8 months so far. I imagine you could just make the piece out of something else if you had to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  4. I’m headed your direction this weekend. Ramsay area. Not thrilled with the cold snap. But hey, I should be able to break the snowmobile out on Monday! But, back to the lights. I will say that the quality is mostly very good. It’s not without fault though. I don’t like the adjustment screw position. It’s on the back of the lights instead of the top. No problem for the driver side, but the passenger side is a pain with the air box there. I ended up using a flexible screwdriver. I’ll also say that the trim on the oem is stuck on like nothing else. This is not quite that. They’re on there decent, but I feel like I could add more 3m tape to make it a little more solid. (Talking about the black trim, it’s removable like on the oem) The output is decent, and the cutoff is really good. It’s not perfect. I don’t know though, it could be on purpose. There’s a tiny bit of glare that goes upwards a little bit. Maybe it’s to light signs. That’s what I’ve noticed. I don’t really see it otherwise. You can see it on my garage photo, but not really in the trees. I don’t have a picture of the high beams, but those are good as well. Overall I’m pretty happy with them. I don’t think they’re worth 1400 compared to my stock HIDs, but for 700, sure. I should also say I tried the morimoto d5s bulbs before this. I had problems. I don’t know if it was my truck or the bulbs, but I never had any luck with them. I had them on the truck for a week, and now they’re back in the box on a shelf in my garage. This is much much better than that. One wouldn’t fire intermittently, and even when it did, I didn’t see a massive difference. Maybe I’m blind, idk. Anyway, if there anything specific you’d want me to check or try, let me know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  5. It’s freezing outside and I can’t seem to get away from the snow. I pulled the truck out of the garage to get some photos. Sorry they’re not the best. I won’t be going back out tonight. Does anyone have something specific they’d like to see? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  6. My truck is a lot cleaner since the last picture I posted. I have a siren red truck with the z71 package. So no chrome on the front. I bought the non chrome version that includes trim that can be painted to match the truck. I didn’t end up doing that. So I have the headlights with black unpainted trim on them on my truck. They look decent, but they’d probably look better if the paint matched. I’ll try to get some shots of the output tonight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  7. You guys must be talking about the HID kits or something. I was talking about the full replacement headlights with 3 led modules. It replaces the whole housing, not just the bulbs. Mine has led turn signals, no fast blink or errors. If there’s something else I should be looking for, I’m not aware of it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  8. I was on the retrofit source mailing list. That’s where I found the codes last time. Since I bought mine, I haven’t really been watching, but they often had them for 20% off or something. Not sure as of late. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  9. I’m hoping these are more reliable than the normal kits. Since this is the whole assembly, and it feels decent in my hand, maybe it’ll last longer. I’ve gotten them installed, and the output seems really good. It’s been snowing here, so they won’t be clean, but I’ll edit this post in a couple minutes with a picture. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  10. That could be the bcm I suppose, but it’s more likely the igniter or ballast. In these trucks, the igniter and ballast is integrated into the bulbs. They’re d5s bulbs. One thing you could do is swap the bulbs from side to side. If the problem moves it’s the bulb, or if it doesn’t, it could be a ground, relay, or something else upstream. Or, as you said, perhaps the bcm. I’ve never heard of it doing that though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  11. Ah, I think this only works for the Silverado lights. It was working as late as last night. Actually, there’s a few other ones it works for, but I don’t think Sierra is one of them [emoji853] I’m not sure how much longer it will go, since they’ve been advertising as a Christmas promo. I tried to post sooner, but there was something up with the site when I tried. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  12. Not sure how much longer this will last... But for some reason theretrofitsource.com allows stacking coupons, and there's two 25% off coupons. A little over $700 out the door. https://www.theretrofitsource.com/chevrolet-silverado-xb-led-heads-B-LF542?quantity=1 Promo Codes: xb25xmas xbmadness Mine just arrived, so I can't comment on quality yet.
  13. If I were you I’d look for a fuse that is tied to the RAP (retained accessory power) system. Since you’re using a relay, it should introduce very little draw to the circuit. I’m not familiar with the box under the hood, but I’ve done the same tap in the driver side fuse panel inside the truck. There’s probably other options too, that’s just the one I’m familiar with. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  14. It’s probably not there, but something to try is going into the options on the DIC and making sure all of the info screens are turned on. I know TPMS is mandated in vehicles after 2007 or somewhere around there. HDs are in a different class and aren’t always subject to the same laws though. That’s why there’s no epa rating on the window sticker, for example. As far as how the sensors know where they are... when you rotate them, you go into the DIC and hit the option saying you rotated them. Get out of the truck and take the tpms relearn tool and find which marker light is on. Usually driver front first, I think. Go touch the wheel and the horn will honk saying it learned that position. The next light will turn on. Do the same for that tire. How it would work for drw, I have no idea. Maybe a blinking light for interior tire or something? The tool is like $20 on Amazon. Good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  15. If Siri is working directly on your phone, it could be something with the trucks microphone. Or something else on your truck. It doesn’t sound like a phone issue any longer. I don’t use Siri for calling in my truck, I use the Chevy assistant or whatever it is. Anyway, a little while ago, it would act like it couldn’t hear me. Kinda similar. I actually brought it into the dealer, and they restarted the radio. That seemed to fix the problem. (They actually unplugged my dash can and my blamed it on that, but continued working when I plugged it back in.) All of this to say, try and restart your hmi unit in the truck. I’m not sure of the exact procedure, but it doesn’t fully shut down when you turn off your truck from my understanding. Unhooking the battery or pulling a fuse jump to mind, but maybe there’s a more elegant way?
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