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kgkern01

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  1. I'm not looking for the maximum performance gains or the most gains that I can "feel", I'm looking to maximize the stock longblock's efficiency and power/torque. I've seen a lot of dyno graphs on the LT1 intake being ported on stock engines gaining a consistent 10-15hp/tq across the whole curve, and a couple hundred $ isn't too bad to gain this, especially since I plan on pulling the intake to clean it and the valves when I add a catch can anyway. 10-15hp/tq under the curve here, and another 10-15 there, etc add up. My plans for it are Volant CAI (already have), E85 conversion, stainless LT headers, ported intake, catch can, then dyno tune once all these are done. I don't have a problem going this route if anyone has done this and documented what needs to be ported out on these particular intakes. I know there is a ramp in/before the ports, and some material behind the throttle body that can be removed, but that is all I have found so far. Like I said I also don't mind spending $300-ish to port mine by someone with more experience and has done some flow testing, if I can gain 10-15 average under the curve on it.
  2. As a few others on here are doing as well, I am trying to maximize the bolt-on potential of my 6.2 L86. Street driving/daily and towing is my use, so low-mid-range hp/tq and efficiency gains are my goals, not peak hp, I have a highly modified TransAm for that. On my list is porting the L86 intake, however I haven't seen much online regarding it. I have found only 2 places so far online that do the porting, Pace and Gwatney, and was curious as if anyone on here has experience with having the L86 intake ported, and other possible porter options, price, results, etc.
  3. That is exactly what I figured would happen since the tables aren't currently setup for looking for E85.
  4. Won't running E85 in it without the sensor and FlexFuel enabled in the PCM cause a lean condition?
  5. Following this as well. I was planning on upgrading my 2015 to the 2.5 with ApplePlay, but I may hold off if this is a better option.
  6. So I'd be better off just waiting until I can get in for the full tune and enable it then basically?
  7. I am ordering the parts and sensor to run E85 for my 2015 6.2 today. I plan on getting a full dyno tune with trans tuning etc later, but for now I want to just enable what I need to be able to run E85. I know in HPTuners set Fuel Sensor to "Sensor" and FlexFuel to "Enabled", what else is needed to be able to run E85 on the 6.2 until I get the dyno tune done?
  8. I just did my 2nd oil change with the Gas Truck Rotella 5w-20 after taking it to the dealer for the past year and half for all the oil changes. Haven't had any problems, it seems to run great with it, and the consensus on bobistheoilguy.com seems to be good as well.
  9. Did your leveling kit come with sensor relocation brackets? There are leveling kits specific to the Magneride system that include these. If not, then the Magneride system thinks that your suspension is in extension by the amount of the lift and is adjusting the shocks stiffer accordingly. You either need to get a kit that has the sensor relocation brackets or have a dealership perform a Magneride relearn procedure to set your new height as the zero height.
  10. I have their headers on my LT1 TransAm as well, they are much better quality than the Hooker headers that I had on previously. I plan on getting these same headers for my 6.2 as soon as my warranty is up.
  11. The LT1 is identical to the L86 other than intake and exhaust manifolds, so how is it that different of an engine and crank pressure?
  12. https://appdevelopermagazine.com/gm-releases-ngi-sdk-for-developing-infotainment-in-vehicle-apps/ I just registered as a GM Developer, I am going to try to make an app that will display real-time engine data on the Info screen. I'll post back once I've got something working.
  13. Thanks! They are 295/55R20 Ridge Grapplers, and 1.5” SuspensionMaxx Magneride level kit. I tow my boat in the summer so didn’t want to go too high in the front, I still have about 1.2” rake front to rear. Tires don’t rub at all except at 100% full lock I get some slight rub on the sway bar but that’s it.
  14. You would have to ask the dealer to rezero all the shocks, they work together as a system, so you just tell them that you need to reset/zero the Magneride system because you’ve done a lift. There are lift kits that are designed for the Magneride system that will come with the relocation brackets for the sensors to keep them at the same setting. This is what I used for my front level, and I recommend doing the same if you are doing a full lift, just look for a lift kit that is made for the Magneride system and includes new sensor brackets.
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