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kgkern01

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About kgkern01

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    kgkern01

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    2015 Sierra Denali 6.2
  1. Thanks! They are 295/55R20 Ridge Grapplers, and 1.5” SuspensionMaxx Magneride level kit. I tow my boat in the summer so didn’t want to go too high in the front, I still have about 1.2” rake front to rear. Tires don’t rub at all except at 100% full lock I get some slight rub on the sway bar but that’s it.
  2. You would have to ask the dealer to rezero all the shocks, they work together as a system, so you just tell them that you need to reset/zero the Magneride system because you’ve done a lift. There are lift kits that are designed for the Magneride system that will come with the relocation brackets for the sensors to keep them at the same setting. This is what I used for my front level, and I recommend doing the same if you are doing a full lift, just look for a lift kit that is made for the Magneride system and includes new sensor brackets.
  3. If you alter the height front or rear the shocks either need to be re-zeroed at the dealer, as each shock has a sensor on it that measures the height, ie. shock travel, and adjusts the damping based on where the load.
  4. Underseat Storage SOLD

    Is this still available? Would you be willing to ship if I paid shipping? It still ends up cheaper for me that way than if I buy new.
  5. To summarize the thread, if you get a general leveling kit, the Magneride will ride more rough, unless you have a dealership re-zero the Magneride calibration. If you buy a Magneride specific leveling kit that moves the sensor arm to compensate for the level, then you should be good to go with the same as stock ride. (or very very similar as the geometry changes with the level). I went with the 1.5" SuspensionMaxx Magneride level kit on mine and the ride stayed exactly the same as stock.
  6. Thanks! Yeah it’s a 2015, just got it in May. The paint didn’t seem bad before, until we stripped the wax, clay barred, and got some good lighting on it, especially with the detailing light. I would 100% say that it was worth it. Paint is incredibly reflective and smooth now, and water won’t stay on at all, cleaning is so easy. Expensive, but worth it.
  7. Just got mine paint corrected and ceramic coated.
  8. Exhaust Tip Recommendations

    I know this is an old post, but do you have a pic of this installed on your truck? Thinking of buying the same tip for my stock 6.2 exhaust. I run a cutout when I want the nice rumble though.
  9. Hideous front hood vent

    If you are referring to the hood, then yes on the Sierra it is a direct bolt on (almost, hinges,etc are different) for the stock hood. The Silverado's unfortunately is not.
  10. Yeah that seems a tad high as well. I paid $38k for my 2015 Denali, but mine had more miles, 54k, but mine also has the 6.2, sunroof, and all other available options, except for the 22" wheels, which I prefer the 20's anyway.
  11. Has anyone on here ever done this? The brighter whiter LED's look much better!
  12. Yeah I know the 2016+ headlights can be direct swapped out with the wiring harness. I may do that down the road, and I will definitely be doing the 2016+ taillight swap soon, but what I was asking is if the current 2015 LED strip can be made brighter, through voltage or resistance changes, or at least have them stay bright when the headlamps come on as well?
  13. One thing I've noticed about the 2016+ Sierra's and especially the Silverados is that the LED strip is MUCH brighter on the 2016+ vs the 2014-2015 Sierras. Is there a way to brighten the LED bar, or am I looking at doing a 2016+ headlight swap otherwise? Also, I noticed that the actual headlights are much whiter as well?
  14. My Gen II LT1 gained throughout the powerband both HP and torque when just a bolt-on car. Yes it shifted the powerband up, but there was still a gain that was had in both hp and tq throughout, no loss from 2000 RPM up. That is also basically a SBC, which is a completely different example though. According to the OP's dyno charts in this thread, it appears to show the same, his bolt ons netted a gain in hp and tq from around 1700+ (where his graph starts) all the way across. Given the stock manifolds are already basically shorty headers, and as long as you don't go too large with the primaries (losing velocity will cause power loss), and stay no more than 1-3/4" with the LT's, the increased exhaust velocity is what allows still having an increase in both tq and hp down low, not to mention it is more efficient. I haven't seen a dyno yet that someone actually lost torque going to a "properly sized primary" LT header, but I have on large primary LT's. Bigger isn't always better when it comes to exhaust, even though some people (especially some diesel guys lol) tend to think so, haha.
  15. You still gain low end torque with long tube headers, they just really increase more up at higher RPM, making the curve peak a little higher.
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