Lsgun1

It's the pulley you pictured with the part number and yellow tag visible. Go right on the bolt holding the pulley on.

If its not and you got a free hour or two I'd do it myself. The directions above are spot on.

If it is low on a charge it means it has a leak, its a sealed system. Drop a thermometer in one of the vents and keep the rpm at 2k and see what it does.

Sounds like you did a good basic diagnosis. I'd check compression on that cylinder before throwing an injector at it.

You have a temp gauge, watch it. You shouldn't need more than 5 minutes to figure it out.

Like I said last week, take the belts off and drive. If there's no noise it's on the accessory drive. Pretty simple.

Come to the northern states and you won't have much choice, road salt is brutal.

It shouldn't cost much more to put better parts in, I'd seriously have the shop do it now.

I do it by hand with Meguiars Ultimate products and if I go through a wash it's a touchless.

We can rebuilt it, we have the technology.

Change every other fluid that you haven't. Coolant is the only thing that can wait but its cheap enough to do now.

I'd take the belts off and drive it.

I got the best price from ebay. I had a tire machine at my disposal so that helps.

If you are paying someone to take it apart then I would just find a junkyard engine with low miles and swap it entirely. That will be the fastest way to fix the problem. If you manage to get another car to drive in the meantime then I'd rebuild the top end with AFM delete lifters and a new cam.

I'm running Michelin LTX AT2 and am very happy with them. Quiet like a Michelin always is and has good traction and a cool enough looking tread.