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About jmpidgeo

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  • Location
    Taylorsville, In
  • Drives
    2005 GMC Sierra
  1. It was amazing how rusty the sensor was this time. 4 days from brand new looking to almost fully covered in rust. I hope I got that issue solved. I couldn't ever have imagined or believed that it could have happened that fast.
  2. Issue migrated to sensor 1 after swapping them. Sensor 2, when i removed it, was rusted worse than the original it replaced. Ordered AC Delco sensors and will be doing the silicon dam with them this time.
  3. Swapped sensors around. I am getting good at the repair procedure. Bank 2 sensor was rusted worse on the sensor body than the original one I replaced. So if the problem migrates to the bank 1 sensor I will know where my problem is. If not then its back to the drawing board.
  4. So I replaced the wiring last night. The code came back instantly. I loosened and retorqued the knock sensors and everything like that. My next step is to try a higher quality of knock sensor. If that does not work. Then it is onto the wiring connector at the manifold, where I would get a new one and install it with new pins. And if that doesn't work, then I will pay the $100 for my friend with HP tuners to deactivate the code.
  5. Yup, I definitely plan on sealing them up this time
  6. Oh, MIL = malfunction indicator lamp, aka the general CEL term used by OEM's since sometimes it's a CEL or SES light. MIL gets rid of the cross-brand confusion
  7. I have the harness on order. I will be replacing that when I get it. There's no easy way to swap connections without doing all the work to replace the sensors anyways, so I'll just go ahead with the new harness. Both sensors were submerged when I replaced them before, but the rear sensor was worse off. I do believe that water had reached the connection.
  8. I did not torque them with a torque wrench. Went with my calibrated arm lol. When I replace the harness I'll torque them properly as well as the intake manifold bolts.
  9. Hello all, Recently (couple weeks ago) I replaced both knock sensors when my MIL came on and threw code P0332 (knock sensor bank 2 low voltage input IIRC). I knew that only one sensor was affected by the code but I replaced both just because. I did however notice that the bank 2 sensor connection was easier to come off than bank 1, which I think may come into play later on in this story. Of course, both knock sensors were submerged in water, which I cleaned out. I did NOT do the silicon-dam method, as I discovered this after I was done with the job. I did not replace the wiring harness either. The MIL was off for at least a week before it came back, P0332 again. Yesterday I did some diagnosis to try and figure out what is going on with this. Bank 1 and bank 2 sensor (ohmed out at the harness plug on intake) both show a resistance of 99-100 kOhm (or Ohm, can't remember) with the engine off. I then checked the response of each sensor. Bank 1 and bank 2 sensors both showed a change in voltage when tapping on the block with a hammer, which is good. I then started the engine up and measured the voltage change with RPM change for each sensor, and here is where it gets interesting Bank 1 sensor fluctuated from approximately 50 mV to 150 mV with a quick RPM sweep (friend stabbed the gas pedal quick to change the sensor output) Using the same technique, Bank 2 sensor fluctuated from approximately 50 mV to 100 mV, which was significantly different than the bank 1 sensor. Bank 1 and bank 2 pins from the connection on the intake manifold to the PCM show very similar resitances between them, signifying that there should be no short between the PCM and knock sensors themselves (unless the sensor harness is bad) That completes all of the diagnostic trouble-tree steps I have taken via AllData. The next steps are PCM replacement, which I do not want to do. I realize that the sensors may be designed to pick up specific frequencies and as such, different responses under the same conditons, but the sensors have the same P/N if I am not mistaken, so that must be the characteristics of the mounting location, right? The fact that the bank 2 sensor electrical connection seemed to be loose compared to bank 1 has me wondering about the sensor wiring harness and the fact that the connection may be poor/intermittent. I am going to order one and replace it because it's a relatively quick and inexpensive job to do, but I was wondering if there is anything else that would make sense? Thanks in advance!
  10. 1 and 2 I do not know 3: you should be able to unbolt the master cylinder without having to re-bleed. I'm not sure if you'll be able to move the master out of the way without having to disconnect the lines though. 4: in my experience there is not a seal there, between the two units, but I've never replaced a hydroboost unit on my own. Sounds to me like a seal inside the booster has worn out. 5: when I changed my power steering pump, the bleeding procedure was simply turning the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. I would assume that pumping the brakes would come into the equation somewhere with hydroboost, but I am not sure. Hopefully that helped at least a little bit until some real technician or someone with more experience chimes in.
  11. Not to mention that they went through 2 oil changes worth of Mobil 1 since they dropped the pan twice, LOL. Obviously only charged me for 1 oil change worth.
  12. Not too far off then, probably rounded it off to 7 hrs @ $100/hr. $100/hr seems like the going rate for a dealership, if not more expensive in some cases. I especially don't feel bad since they had all day yesterday and half the day today working on it, so I bet they put a solid 12 hours of labor into it between diagnosis, oil pump and seals round 1, and the oil pump seals round 2
  13. No, I only paid for one round of the oil pump R&R. The oil pump was quoted as a 7.5 hour job by the service advisor when I called them up to discuss how much it might cost. Overall he quoted me $950 for the oil pump R&R and around $350 for the pickup tube seal(s) job separately (parts + labor). They charged me a flat $700 for labor.
  14. Aaand I have my truck back. Just as I thought in the back of my mind, the tech messed up installing the pump so the pickup tube wasn't properly sealed to it. All good now, $700 in labor later plus parts. 40 psi at idle sure makes me feel better than the previous 3-15 psi

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