Jump to content

Rukus

Member
  • Content Count

    95
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

14 Good

About Rukus

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Name
    Array
  • Location
    Array
  • Gender
    Array
  • Drives
    Array

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. After dealing with ReadyLift I will say their customer service is GREAT. But... after installing the replacement arms... I compared to the stock arms... (pics to follow)... The arms are pretty much identical. angles/lengths etc... Once install I also noticed the ball joint boot is pretty extreme. I can tell this is why they failed. (2.5 lift). Sitting at shop now getting it re aligned. Shop says they never have issues with the RL arms for what it is worth. (I didn't buy from them). They do agree that the ball joints NEED grease every oil change (of course) and replaced about every 12K miles.
  2. My ready lift UCA's lasted 10K miles (8 months). Bushings on driver side Trashed... Ball joint on passenger side GONE...
  3. From what I've seen I should just replace the whole arm as it is a PITA to remove and press the new joint in place. What is the "best" arm I can go with? 2018 4WD 5.3
  4. I buy the 100K extended every time. A caliper not lasting 40k miles on a 1500! A heater/AC fan not lasting 40k! A wiper motor not lasting more than a year!!! (It didn't rain more days because the heels went around often). It's the lack of quality in the build. The quality has gone way down. The fit/finish has all but been forgotten. GM knows they are selling fleet trucks and don't care about the common consumer anymore. I'm on my 17th truck. Last 5-6 have ben junk. Any noise is a bad noise. Means metal on metal (most often) and premature wear. I try to be loyal to the band, but they are no longer standing up to their end.
  5. bump... Same problem. 3" lift/level in front. New UCA. 44k miles. Started happening around 30K
  6. Its not just the caliper... It's the repeat lack of customer service. Whenever there is an issue with the bow tie we are told "normal". My '12 had a vent fan go out after 10 months. I was @ 40k miles. Not covered. Wiper motor on another truck goes out under a year buy just outside of warranty, not covered. My '15, '17, and '18 all have the leaf spring pop issue... not covered (normal). Customer service sucks. AND... the kicker... they called back today (so much fo the 24-48 hours) to tell me it is not covered. Didn't offer a discount etc... nothing. SAD
  7. Done with GM... 2018 1500 Crew cab. 46K miles. About 30K rear brake was making a "pop" noise. Was told suspension was making noise. (2"+ level kit and airbag assist). Then, got worse. Brought in again today and the brakes squeak every time you apply and release WHILE THE TRUCK IS OFF AND STILL. Can't be suspension. SO... they finally agree it is a bad caliper. Clearance for pins is too large. 1 pin is bent. Charge me $75 to Diag of course. But, not covered under warranty anymore (miles). Not under extended either of course. I call customer service and was told o-well. List the suspension change could have caused the caliper to have these issues. GM sucks. I get a new truck every 18-24 months. (mileage) Once I had my windshield wiper motor go after 10 months of owning the truck. Just under 41K miles. No warrantee coverage. Seems to be the motto of the company. Lets not even get into the vibration and spring clunk issues. (had on the '15, '17, and now the '18.). Ford, F150 next?
  8. I have not used either... but, since you have a black truck (my '15 was) I ceramic coated it. It was my 7th black truck. The FIRST to look clean more than 10 minutes after a wash! Ceramic is the way to go. My '18 is Silver and I also ceramic coated it. I'll this form now on with every truck.
  9. Bump... where did you get the cover?
  10. Yes... use what fatkid24 linked. I used the same one. AND!!! GREAT call returning the crap OPT7 bar. It is poorly built and their customer service (lack of) SUCKS!
  11. So... back on topic... The answer is NOTHING. You can do nothing to raise the towing capacity. As mentioned you can make it tow better / less effort / wear not he truck.. but not higher capacity. the trends and rear end can only handle so much. Heat is your enemy here. You will destroy your truck quickly by towing too much. I tow (with my 1500 non Max Tow) a '14 enclosed trailer that weighs 3600#s with (2) Harley Ultras in it (2000#s). I travel to Sturgis every year and the mountains are brutal @ 70/80 MPH posted speed limit. Getting some momentum on the down hill and keeping it under 3-3500k RPM on the up is best. You will loose some speed of course but you will not beat up the truck. There is always another down on the other side. Speed kills when you are towing weight. Keep it manageable. Remember... to go 60 miles at 70 MPH it takes 51.4 minutes. at 80 MPH it take you 45 minutes. Worth it to save 5.6 minutes? Risk of accident as well as the damage to your drivetrain?
  12. Opt7 suck. Putco is the way to go. Opt7 has some great "features" like sequential signals in either red or amber but the wiring and circuit is so cheaply made you are very aware it is Chinese. Putco is worth the few extra bucks. LEDs are high quality and they stand behind the warranty.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.