CybeRube2

Hello everyone. Need some help. Purchased a Harness from John Adams at A.I.S that bypasses the bose amp and also provides loop back to amplify my replacement speakers using factory speaker wiring. I plugged everything in and in using my Kenwood X802-5 I can't get it to turn on reliably. Sometimes it will work, but 90% of the time it doesn't. I almost want to say it doesn't like the High-Level Inputs I used from the John Adams harness. I used the Front and Rear Doors as my input sources. It's almost as if it's not getting the necessary power to turn the amp on. Supposedly it's supposed to turn on with the Speaker level inputs. Another thing I noticed is the time it was working; it sounded bad. The Factory BOSE sounded 10x better. My speakers used are the JL Audio C-250x components with a 8" Soundwedge JL Audio sub. I'm wondering if I should just pony up and get an AMP with DSP. Any ideas on what to check? I'm trying to figure out if maybe its the Input sensitivity setting (or Gain) but I have no idea how to match it with the factory BOSE head unit.

Oops, duplicate

I have a 2018 Silverado 2500HD that I purchased used an all interior and exterior lighting was upgraded. I believe from removing some to replace the previous owner used kits from here: Car Interior LED Light Bulbs on SEALIGHT They do make a huge difference and the interior lighting for me is great. If I remember, I can take a pic. Search for your model year and select "other bulbs" and go to interior. I do notice thought, that when I scan the truck for codes, sometimes I get a code for the License plate light. THe light is working so not sure why it has a code, but at least the check engine light doesn't come on.

I'm going to chime in here in case people search and land on here. I just bought a 2018 Silverado 2500HD LTZ, Z71 Duramax Packaged truck for 23k with 219k on the clock. The truck has been phenomenal so far. I did take it to a dealership and pulled 2 reports on it. I can't remember the names of the repots but basically one was the vehicle history report from any GM dealership and the other was the Warranty/Recall report. The truck had absolutely no issues and was well maintained throughout its mileage. Obviously, the suspension at that high mile needed to be replaced (ball joints, shocks, etc.). Easy fixes for a DIY'er. The next thing I had to fix was turbo coolant line that rubs on the factory EGR pipe bracket causing it to get a pinhole tear. Another easy fix that took me 20 min. This truck is still on original injectors, glow plugs, etc. Overall, I think I made an awesome purchase on an L5P Duramax that has been wonderful. Bottom line, get a good history on it, and I would never hesitate to get a truck with higher miles. Oh, and I paid CASH. So, no monthly payments. I was paying 500/mo for my 21' Ford F250 that was junk. So I went for a pre-covid made vehicle and it's been great. The way I see it, I put aside 200/mo from the monthly $500 payment I was making on the F250 for the duration of the loan I would have been paying and setting it aside in case I need some work done on the 2018 Silverado.

There is an easy way to test for parasitic draw. Look at this video. Basically, you just check every fuse int he truck. Eventually you may be able to isolate it.