M1ck3y

straight pipe it, you wont hear it anymore.

The dipstick is a pain in the ass. Check the oil when cold, on a garage floor, gas station etc. level as possible. And DONT push the dipstick in all of the way. Go until it stops but don't actually seat it. Only way I get accurate readings... The oil in this gen truck gets incredibly black, you cant use this to gauge oil life. My truck has had rough idle since day one. Same as my dad's 6.2 and friends 6.2. Valve train is noisy, high pressure fuel pump is noisy.

I'd say its a GM transmission and they paid Allison to continue using their name.

Flash counter is irrelevant. This happens every time you disconnect the battery. They don't look for a tune, they look to see if the vehicle is operating within gm spec. Hence why black bear and number of other tuners don't have customers that have encountered a warranty being denied.

Your Truck was on e85 with that dyno graph? Says Flex...

Are you going to do a before and after run? I'm really curious to see what this does, or if it makes a noticeable difference. Port it yourself?

Wow, that is very sad...

The piece in front of the tire is there purely for aerodynamics, gm must have gotten a few points on the epa fuel mileage so they figured why not. But yeah, there should be parts you can order.

Yeah there's plastic trim that fit over the corner's. Mine have them, and I have gatorbacks on. You must have the plastic splash guards?

Corsa sport doesn't eliminate v4 noise in the 6.2. I know, drive it every day. I would think the gm version would be better though considering its actually a touring muffler. Has a resonator chamber in the muffler vs the sport. Your running a muffler designed for a different year. Sounds like corsa should have stuck with that design.

Last gen it was a lot cheaper to do a cam. My understanding now you may as well pull the engine. Just easier. And while your at it you may as well do a dod delete kit. All said and done your maybe a couple grand cheaper then bolting on a supercharger. And what your making at the crank is what you could be making at the wheels with boost. Assuming you go with a cam that's streetable. I was looking at going with a cam. Perfer it over a supercharger. But cost compared to power gains, really not worth it.

If your not installing it yourself you mays well just put a supercharger on instead. Cam is cheaper but not by much.

Pretty sure its a difference of 100 rpm, at least that's what it is with my 17. Whatever you do, don't give it too much throttle when your not moving on ice. I did that with my 2010. Drive wheel was on ice, and when it locked up the other wheel which found pavement. It literally sounded and felt like it blew up. Never worked right after that. Really wish the Silverado had an electronic locker. Auto is great on ice. But in my mind I either want or need 4wheels active or two wheels active. No in between crap. I'm not worried about fuel economy unless I'm driving in ideal conditions, and on the highway.

Anyone know at what speed its active at? have mine turned off right now because I'm worried it might activate if I happen to be driving a little dangerously.

Daiblo doesn't have tcm tuning for 18's. just engine tuning for 17's and 18's