M1ck3y

Removing it affects the airflow under the truck. Which in turn affects the airflow through the rad and how the air is pulled from the engine bay and under the vehicle. Also effects vehicle downforce and handling. Nothing I would have believed a 2 inch piece of plastic could do until I experienced it. Could of sworn I answered this guys post before..

What happened exactly that they approved a replacement transmission. I easily hit 185 driving around the city for an hr when its 86* out. Cant imagine where it would be at towing at its rated capacity.

Its not that simple. do you have it apart already.

Are catch can rated for cold weather use? Could there be an issues opening it up, or not sealing properly in say -30

You have stock suspension right? Air dam installed? What does your engine temp read.

I have mine off right now. I can tell you it makes highway driving a pain, the front wants to move all over the place. Changes the feel of the vehicle, positively at low speeds, negatively at high speeds. Appears to run a little bit hotter too.. And looks 100% better being off

Its really hard to say if your issues are normal or not, best to take it in have someone look at it.

Thanks, appreciate it. You ever use anti-seize on 02's or header bolts?

Which engine do you have? On the 6.2 Gm recommends 93 octane.

Installing headers soon and hoping someone can confirm these torque specs for me. I have a haynes repair manual that says exhaust manifold bolts are 20 ft-lbs with new heads, or 17 ft-lbs with old heads. But it also says 17 ft-lbs with existing manifold, or 20 ft-lbs with new exhaust manifolds. I'm gonna say 20 ft-lbs is the correct one but everything online says 17. Says exhaust flange bolts are 20-25 ft-lbs. Transmission mount bolts 40 ft-lbs, but its confusing because there's a number of different transmission mount bolts. oxygen sensor 31 ft-lbs. It also provides numbers for the steering column, but its confusing because of the multiple connection points with different torque specs. No numbers for the transmission cross member bolts to chassis (tight as you can get em?) Not sure if I should be using anti seize either. On one hand yes for of ease of removal, on the other hand no because you'll end up over torquing the bolt...

low speed pre-ignition. Mine did it until I switched from 91 to 94 octane. They all do it to varying degree's of severity. Most people think their hearing the injectors or fuel pump. You can tell its lspi when the ticking is inconsistent at part throttle under slight load, hill etc.

What did it for me is the fact that amsoil declined quakerstate's invite to do a public displayed oil test. And as far as I'm concerned, I take his testing as legit. Is there anyone else doing this? Beats picking a brand based on commercial's or what color the bottle is. Look up quakerstate's testing. Real world taxi cabs. Idling and running all day. Sounds pretty brutal to me. To each there own, just thought I would share. I have very little knowledge of oil and what defines a good oil. So I rely on those that know more. Personal choice.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

https://gmauthority.com/blog/2020/04/general-motors-looks-to-have-lawsuit-over-eight-speed-transmission-defects-dismissed/#:~:text=General Motors is looking to,8L90 eight-speed automatic transmissions.&text=GM has sent technical service,defects since at least 2015.

I was under the impression gm stopped all tsb's for 8spd/tcc. The class action lawsuit for the 8l90 got thrown out because gm stated that their warranty covers manufacturing defects not poor design. After that, all work on 8spds was cut immediately and they stopped trying to fix it. I dont have the link for that specific tsb but do a quick search on google and you'll find it.