While I will agree that I would like a larger fuel tank, this one is bigger than my first new Chevy. I had a ‘80 K10 regular cab, short bed. If I recall it had a 16 gallon tank. About 200 miles was all I could get before refueling. At least GM gave the option of ordering dual tanks, but money was tight.
Not to tell anyone what oil or oil filter to use, and since the OP asked which filter, let me throw one out that I don’t see listed in this post. I use a K&N filter. I am not going to throw out specs or say it is the best, but here is why I use them. I have continuously owned at least one GM product since 1976. I was always an AC-Delco man. As the commercials said, “keep your GM car all GM”. I figured if the people that designed the car/truck specified the filter, it was good enough for me. I kept that opinion until I got my 2012 Silverado. After several times changing oil and getting mad at the engineers that placed that big filter in that tiny cavity that no wrench would easily remove, I went to K&N with the 1” nut so I could remove it with a socket and extension. So it is 3 times the cost of the AC, but the hassle cost more than that. Easy on, easy off and no issues with Mobile 1.
I will agree. I wanted an LTZ, but even though I am in my early 60’s, I like the look of a “low” lifted truck (My wife, all 5’-4” of her, drives a Wangler Rubicon with the factory 2” lift). I didn’t want the hassle of doing an aftermarket lift. Since the Z71 is supposed to be the off road package, I don’t understand why they just didn’t add the lift, shocks, tires, etc. to the Z71 package. Or at least a Z71 “+” package similar to the Z71 appearance package.
Speaking of this, what is the reason for eliminating the fuel cap? No way the spring loaded flapper can seal out foreign materials as well as a screw on cap.
I know that GM installs certain options as only part of packages to standardize and reduce “their” cost. Back in 1980 I ordered a K10 Silverado (Silverado was a trim level back then, like LTZ) and you could order almost any option by itself. I was able to get power windows without power locks. 4 speed manual too. Now if you order certain options you have to get a package or some packages are not available with certain options. The only thing I couldn’t get when I ordered the available tachometer was a clock. The tach replaced the fuel gauge which was moved to the clock location. Pre-LED display in the radio so the clock was analog in the display console.
You have got to remember when you are not moving you are not getting the airflow across the coolers so that may be some of the issue. I was always told about 100 degrees over ambient is normal temperature under normal driving.
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You forgot to mention the front and rear winches you will need to install to get yourself out of the ditch if you are planning on driving at least 70 MPH in 12" of snow. Just because it's 4 wheel drive doesn't make it "super human". If it is not your driving that does it, it will be someone else's. I may live in the South, but we have enough mountain snow to have an idea of driving through 12"+ of unplowed snow. You may miss the 40 MPG car when you live with 13-15 based on the set up.
I was just talking to my boss about his trucks. He has a 2002 Silverado 2500 4x4 with a 6.0. He has over 200k miles on it and uses it has his daily driver and farm truck. He told me that he was talking to our VP and he has a 1999 Silverado 2500 with a 6.0 and over 240k miles. My boss has a 2014 3500 diesel that he uses to pull his horse trailer and has talked about trading the 2500 for about 3 years, but has yet to do so. It keeps hanging on so he keeps putting new tires on it.
I saw a silver truck with the black stripes last week on a lot in Myrtle Beach, SC. Thought it was a dealer add on stripe to look like a late 60/early 70's Camaro. Then I saw a red one with the black stripes and black wheels Monday morning sitting outside the fence at a dealer near Charlotte where it had just gotten off the truck. I started wondering then if it was a new package. Makes me wonder now why the "October" delivery date.
I had heated seats installed in my truck last fall. I found an installer in my area from the Check Corporation (http://www.checkcorp.com/) website. I paid $150 a seat for the install (back and seat). I didn't want mess with removing the leather myself. I had the switches (same ones as RT66er) installed on the lower side of the seat near the power seat switches. I wanted them installed in the dash as well, but couldn't trust having the installer mess in my dash not knowing if they would be right or if the dash would crack later. The lowers seat position was the same location in my '99 Yukon.
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