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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Don't be throwing in common sense into this irrational decision! This is a forum to discuss how much we waste money on our trucks!!!!
  2. 1 point
    Looks great! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 1 point
    That's the truck on a 4 inch ReadyLift with 17x35s Falken Wildpeaks
  4. 1 point
    I've always liked the bigger sidewall on my trucks because of looks and it's just more practical for me. If I need to fit in a real tight spot then all I have to do is push up against the curb. Plus, one less thing to worry about when the Mrs. takes it out lol. The one thing I do have to say made a massive contribution was switching over from Toyo At2 extremes to the Falken wildpeak AT3W. My first batch of them had a pulsation issue that they deemed was a warranty issue and my second batch is golden. The ride compared to my old 17x35 toyo at2's is night and day. So much smoother, less noise, and wet traction is a ton better. I loved my Toyos but riding with these, I realize that they were too hard a tire which in turn would cause them to have poor wet performance.
  5. 1 point
    That's because putting an LED in a projector housing is like painting black stripes on a white horse to make it a zebra! We have different animals here. That was my MAIN reason why I traded my cherry '16 with projectors for a '19 with LEDs.....too many close calls with deer auditioning for hood ornaments. Halogens have a weaker and yellower output than HIDs, but you can't place a HID bulb in a traditional rear reflector because it cannot provide a point source for proper focus.......enter a projector housing with a convex lens in front of the source to focus the light output. But, problem is unlike a dual filament or two separate halogen bulb reflectors to accommodate different focused beams for high and low there is only one focused output for the convex projector lens. And absent four projector headlamps, with a two headlamp system lenses are focused on high beam, low beam is simulated by a mechanical shutter in the headlamp housing which draws an opaque curtain to block a portion of the beam leaving only the portion covering the low beam area. (You can hear the click(s) coming from under the hood when you open the shutter twhen switching to high beam). On low there is meniscus that leaves a sharp cutoff of the beam visible in the distance which is not only annoying, but reduces the amount of light projected from the bulb on low. Solution is to place the more powerful, white output LEDs in a reflector housing to regain full output of the light source. The '19 Silvy, like the '18+ Traverse's stock LEDs use a separate prefocused rear reflector housings, the latter with rear reflector housing and focused "D" lenses setup. Unlike projectors, these systems do not use shutters to cutoff beams like the projectors, but instead use a separate reflector housing for each LED providing full prefocused output for each beam. These setups use six LEDs in six separate housings, four dedicated for low beam and two four high beam, but the beauty of the system is that with independent prefocused housings all six LEDs (4 low + 2 high) remain on when on high beam giving a an unbelievable amount of light. So much brightness and coverage that I cannot understand how I'm never flashed on when on low beam, and Sunburn the deer on high.
  6. 1 point
    no you dont need an alignment , typically what you do is just remove two of the bolts that hold the front diff so it lowers enough to feed the line through to get it out/in. i have replaced the coolers lines and its not that big of a job. it is easier on the 2 wd cuz the diff isnt there.
  7. 1 point
    blue smoke is oil, white smoke is coolant
  8. 1 point
    I know for my truck, I upgraded from a 105A to 145A alternator, it just bolted & plugged right in, but I also needed a new belt, as the 145A alternator pulley was slightly larger. However, the 145A alternator was also for the 6.0L engine. From looking at rockauto, only the 1500 has the 6.2, with 150A or 170A alternators, with the 2500 getting the 6.0 w 150A or 220A alternators, and the alternators have different part numbers for the same size alternator. I expect you'll find the alternators are slightly different in some way, and you'll need to figure out what's different on your own. For example, it could be one or more of: offset of pulley from mount, electrical connector, how the alternator is controlled (as I know my alternator output is controlled by one of the computers, likely the same for yours), pulley diameter or width, or something else.
  9. 1 point
    I repeat this on just about every post on this topic. Dexron VI is a fluids PHSICAL SPECIFICATION and not its fluid TYPE. Just like 30W is a specification and not a type. Marketing has misused the words until the English speaking world no longer understands the meaning of words in general. The specifications for D6 fluids can be met with several different fluid TYPES and that stuff in the drum is at the bottom of the materials performance list. Meeting a GM specification for the fluid means it meets the BASIC SAE fluid specification requirements. Does NOT tell you what its made from. What it's made from is its TYPE. BTW, not ALL 6L80E transmissions in all vehicles have dipsticks. Okay, not counting the one behind the wheel.
  10. 1 point
    I was trying to find a listed depth for our trucks but couldn't find anything. I saw stuff listed for the Colorado over seas as well as the testing Ford did with the ranger. I did find a video a few years back when the K2's came out down in Mexico with a Sierra All-Terrain showing off its off road chops with an off road specialist and it was going through a river where water was up over the hood, but I can't find those videos. Either way this was two weeks ago outside Red River New Mexico. And no, there wasn't any water intrusion, no lights on and no issues or stalling. I walked it and it was to about the top of my tire (I would guess around 30-36"), so the bow wave makes it look deeper than it was. The middle was even deeper still. In case you have any worries about how deep you can go this might help. When DFW flooded two years ago there was a low spot on Loop 12 for those that are familiar with the area that stranded a bunch of cars with no turn around. When news crews were there it showed a 3rd gen Tahoe going through with the water just getting to the top of grille and it made it fine so it seemed as it drove off. Truck has been fantastic, taking me in and out of remote areas and trails with out a complaint or issue, GM sure knows how to build a truck. My diff and transfer case fluids should be here today to change this weekend. At 60k I think it is time anyway, transmission I will do this spring. Just wanted to pass this along for any further info for those that are trying to inquire. If I find any water in any of the diffs I will pass that info along as well, I am curious about the breather set up. Tyler
  11. 1 point
    This is not a good deal. Definitely not one so good you can’t pass it up.....
  12. 1 point
    At the family campground this evening
  13. 1 point
    My opinion for what its worth....if you cant pay it in cash you cant afford it. Im not saying people are out of their minds putting cars on loans but cars are not investments, Buying a luxury truck in the midst of a huge life change is unnecessarily going to cause stress! Ive pretty much given up on the idea of ever owning a new truck because I just don't have enough $$$. Anyway if you can afford it and you would really value it plus make you happy, its not a terrible idea. I mean my wife yells at me for putting $ into a 2002 so sometimes you never win lol
  14. 1 point
    I tell guys every time who are in the middle of huge financial leaps (house, marriage, or new job)....dont ever buy a new truck. half of them do it anyway and they all end up regretting it read up on dave ramsey and make sure you and your new wife follow his baby steps plan. Your priority is entering into a serious relationship with your wife and getting out of debt together. Pre-wedding plans will be stupid stressful so honestly I would wait quite a while before buying something like that. Think of it like this, how would you like before the big day your wife takes out a $50,000 loan on something unnecessary? You dont NEED a 2018 crew cab truck, its a want. Besides, those mini beds are worthless anyway
  15. 1 point
    15-NA-082: Clunking Noise from Front of Vehicle During Turns and/or Bumps Chevrolet Silverado 1500, Suburban 1500, Tahoe 2007 2018 All All GMC Sierra 1500, Yukon, Yukon XL 1500 2007 2018 All All   Condition Some customers may comment on a clunking noise originating from the front of the vehicle that is more predominant during turns or traveling over bumps. Cause This may be caused by a damaged stabilizer shaft frame bracket. There have been some cases in which the bracket is cracked, as shown. This condition has been found to be the result of insufficient welds between the bracket and frame rail. There have been some cases on older vehicles of corrosion affecting the bracket. Correction If you encounter a vehicle with the above concern, follow the procedure below to install a new stabilizer shaft bracket to the frame. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection. Raise the vehicle in the air and inspect the stabilizer shaft frame brackets (both left and right) for any abnormalities or cracks and inspect welds to ensure good alignment and integrity. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in SI. Note: Be sure to inspect frame rails for any cracks or damage in relation to the stabilizer bracket. If the frame rail itself is cracked or damaged, repair should not be attempted. Once verified that the bracket is damaged or the welds are insufficient, remove the stabilizer shaft. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Replacement in SI. On 4WD models, once the stabilizer shaft is removed also remove the front frame/front axle mount exhaust heat shield (1) located above the stabilizer bracket. With the stabilizer shaft and shield removed, using a rag and wax/grease removing solvent, remove the wax coating and any grease, oil, or undercoating from the truck frame in the affected repair area. Important: Be sure to remove all wax coating around the areas of the bracket. If the wax coating is not fully removed, this could affect the weld quality when installing the new bracket. After all the wax coating is removed, using a cut off wheel, remove the old bracket from the frame. Warning: To avoid personal injury when exposed to welding flashes or to galvanized (Zinc Oxide) metal toxic fumes while grinding/cutting on any type of metal or sheet molded compound, you must work in a properly ventilated area, wearing an approved respirator, eye protection , earplugs, welding gloves, and protective clothing. Important: Be sure to not cut the frame in process of removing the bracket. After the bracket has been removed, using an angle grinder with 24 grit sand paper or equivalent clean the areas of any excess bracket weld material from the frame so that the new bracket can sit flush in the location of the old one. Important: Be sure to not grind away any frame material, only remove the weld material. Clean the area of all debris in preparation of the new bracket to be welded to the frame. Important: Be sure to inspect frame rails for any cracks or damage in relation to the stabilizer bracket. If the frame rail itself is cracked or damaged, repair should not be attempted. After the area is clean of all debris, place the new bracket in the location of the removed one. The bracket should seat against the frame crossmember bracket in the most forward position, along the lower surface of the frame rail, and along the inner surface of the frame rail in the rear. Note: The new bracket will need the welding locations stripped of all coating. Be sure to grind all edges of the new bracket so that the quality of the weld will not be affected. After the bracket is in location, tack weld the bracket to the frame in all 4 corners of the bracket. This will keep the bracket from moving while welding the bracket fully to the frame. After the bracket is tack welded in the location, loosely position the stabilizer shaft to verify that the bracket is in the correct location. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Replacement in SI. After verifying that the bracket is in the correct location, remove the stabilizer shaft. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Replacement in SI. Continuous-weld the new bracket into position. Ensure the rear vertical weld (1) is extended approximately 15 mm above the edge of the bracket. Note: When welding, be sure to start from the bottom of the bracket and work your way upward. Note: Gas metal arc weld using ER70S-3 electrode and an Argon CO2 protective gas mixture. Alternatively, meeting AWS 7013. Note: Provide a continuous weld around the bracket. If access does not permit a continuous weld, make a 6 mm minimum overlap of adjacent welds. Warning: To avoid personal injury when exposed to welding flashes or to galvanized (Zinc Oxide) metal toxic fumes while grinding/cutting on any type of metal or sheet molded compound, you must work in a properly ventilated area, wearing an approved respirator, eye protection , earplugs, welding gloves, and protective clothing. After the bracket has been fully welded to the frame, using Lloyd’s Pure Prep™ Metal Surface Preparation P/N 25418 (10 fluid ounce bottle), or equivalent, saturate a towel or Scotch-Brite™ (3M) pad with the pre-diluted solution and scrub the area well, rendering a foaming of the Pure Prep.™ This will greatly improve adhesion and corrosion resistance in the repair areas. Using a water dampened clean towel, remove any residue and dry the affected area. Dry the repair area completely using an air hose to blow dry the frame and bracket. Check the repair area for phosphate treatment by wiping it to see if any corrosion residue can be picked up. Correctly treated areas will not have any residue on the surface. Apply a light flash-coat of Lloyds Kryptonite Metal Treatment P/N 36502 Life Long Rust Protection (14 ounce aerosol), or equivalent, to all bare areas of the frame where the wax coating was removed. This first coat should flash in approximately 3-5 minutes. Apply a light flash-coat to the inside of the frame rail using existing access holes, as shown. Insert the straw of the aerosol can as far as possible, and slowly work the straw back out while applying material. Apply a second coat of Lloyds Kryptonite. This can be a heavy coat; double and triple passes with this product, over a light first coat, are not a problem. We suggest top coating the Lloyds Kryptonite with Daubert Nox-Rust® P/N X-121B “One Coat Rust Preventative Coating” (aerosol), or equivalent. Reinstall the stabilizer shaft with new stabilizer shaft clamp bolts. With new stabilizer thread cutting bolts, drive the bolts to cut the new threads, then loosen the bolts two turns and then torque to 50 Y (37 lb ft). Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Replacement in SI. Note: The stabilizer shaft clamp bolt attachment holes on the new bracket are not threaded, the clamp bolts are thread cutting. On 4WD models, install the front frame/front axle mount exhaust heat shield. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection. 84037074 Bracket – Drivetrain & Frt Susp Frm Stab (Left Hand) 84037075 Bracket – Drivetrain & Frt Susp Frm Stab (Right Hand)
  16. 1 point
    Greg can try his luck getting full price for an old truck. Greg is trying to get you nervous about "losing out". Greg can't even spell. If you don't reply, Bill (the evening internet sales director who does things differently) will email you saying he can do something that Greg can't. No offense, but if you're on a budget, don't even look at a new truck. Get a slightly used truck for half the price and, if CPO, a better/longer warranty than a new one. Save the rest because that house is going to need it.
  17. 1 point
    You should be able to get that truck for around $36,000 $15 off a now two years old truck ( even though it's new) is not a stretch at all.
  18. 1 point
    Then spend a fraction of that and just buy the muffler and have it welded in. Muffler delete is gonna sound like shit
  19. 1 point
    The sale prices surely isn't MSRP. Can you post the trucks sales ad on here? It doesn't even have a factory brake controller so it must be missing a few decent other options too. I'd say 34-37k before taxes for something like that is what I'm used to seeing. Hell a brand new 2019 LT truck from the dealer a few miles away are around 35-37k before taxes.
  20. 1 point
    I just purchased mine yesterday. Will pick up on Monday. Custom V6 Crew + Chevy Bedliner. About 33K + tax. Close to 21% off but it is hard to figure out what is what LOL Pix to follow on Mon.
  21. 1 point
    Note to self: to avoid excessive wear on the fuel pump, don't open the driver's door when just getting something out of the truck.
  22. 1 point
    Yeah, I think HUD was first available on the Turbo Grand Prix and later you could get them on the GTP and STE, but it was a pretty rare option. The Cutlass Supreme also offered it from the factory, but only for a couple years and that one was even rarer. Quite a clunky looking module up there but that’s how they were. Easy enough to install. If I remember right, I just had to tap a single BCM wire to get the data and a couple more for power and lighting. Too bad it’s not still that easy to add gizmos today...
  23. 1 point
    2019 Custom Trail Boss Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  24. 1 point
    Grumpy gave some great feedback. I don’t know all of the reasons why manufacturers choose the materials, maintenance intervals, etc.. that they do. I think it’s safe to assume “reasonable lifespan” or “reasonable amount of maintenance” is somewhere in the mix. Thankfully, I’m not a “reasonable” kind of guy. I expect more and am willing to do more to get it. :-) The 6L80 is a great transmission. If you’re goal is absolute longevity, decreasing time between your fluid change intervals, decreasing the fluid operating temperature by modifying your trans thermostat (very easy to do) and driving the truck gingerly will have a tremendous impact on how long it lasts. I absolutely think 250k+ is achievable before a rebuild.
  25. 1 point
    So I installed the Gator roll up today. It seems pretty nice so far
  26. 1 point
    I can get them brand new for $775 shipped anywhere in the US. Latest 2018 model with the latest wireless charging lid. Compete console. Can be ordered to Black or Cocoa Dune and a variety of trims to match your door panels. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  27. 1 point
    Yes, I was able to fit them after installing the spacers. If the sidewalls weren’t knobby I could get away without wheel spacers and they tires are flush. Old tires were donuts for sure lol
  28. 1 point
    Put on the matte black “Chevrolet” tailgate insert. Very subtle on a black truck, but when the light catches it right, it really pops.
  29. 1 point
    My truck is currently at the detailer for paint correction and Modesta BC-04 coating. Your truck looks good!
  30. 1 point
    Fantastic choices- The stance and wheels...very nice!
  31. 1 point
    Zone offroad kit, 22 inch replica rims , 35 12.5 22 tires , deleted muffler, k&n filter , tri-fold cover , iarmor steps, and it has all options possible
  32. 1 point
    2017 LT Z71 Crew Cab Bilstein 5100'S (on lowest setting) 2.5 RC Level 275/70-18 Duratracs, on stock 18's, no rub, no spacers
  33. 1 point
    2.5' front 1' block in rear, 285/65/18
  34. 1 point
    Here's mine. MotoFab 3" front/2" rear kit on stock 18" rims with Duratracs 265/75/18
  35. 1 point
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