Everything posted by diyer2
I have driven 20 year old vehicles and currently drive a 7 year old vehicle. The wife's car is 12 years old. I don't live where they become rust buckets like you. Did at one time while growing up in Michigan. I'm not an expert on anything. That title is used way to much today IMO. I do have a lot of experience repairing, maintaining everything we own. From computers to vehicles. So maybe I could be called an expert. All the features of the new vehicles are nice but most are not necessary. So instead of bashing the old school way I'll just say it has worked for years.
OK How would anyone know if your truck has an oil leak unless they looked your truck over for an oil leak. I'm trying to help.
You ask if this was normal. If you keep an eye on your oil level on a regular(say check it weekly) basis you would know if it uses oil. So I'm confused. Could be normal and you would know this if you checked the oil level.
TrailDemon Previous to the new oil cooler lines you didn't check your oil level, ever? Your post leads one to think you don't check your oil level. Get in the habit of checking it. That oil level could be normal for your truck for the miles on it since the last oil change or ? Some motors use oil. I'm guessing you have your oil changed some where.
diyer2 posted a topic in 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500When I wrote my review for the Brake Bleeder it was because I put new rear brakes on my truck and replaced the brake fluid also. I found the drivers side rear axle seal was weeping some fluid. Not enough to cause a problem, just enough to collect brake dust. So I was thinking of replacing the axle seals myself. I have repaired vehicles for 50 years and I'm getting tired of it. I made some calls because I really didn't feel like doing this. This was a big step for me because as I have said I just have a hard time trusting shops working on our vehicles. I decided to have new seals installed when I found a local shop that would do it for $249.00. This shop is 2 guys. The head mechanic is in his 60's and born in the town. I say local but it's 30 miles from us. I got prices of $400.00 from another local shop and a dealer that is 70 miles away. The shop is a NAPA certified repair facility which carries a nation wide warranty if needed. The shop uses all NAPA parts which I think is better quality. NAPA, 2 years or 24 K mile warranty. The others 1 year or 12 K mile warranty. Now the reason for this thread, sorry for babbling on. My past GM trucks the rear axle seals lasted over a 100 K miles. I believe my 77 lasted about 120 K + and my 93 was over 150 K miles. So maybe the quality has suffered for the sake of profit. Don't get me wrong, I still like my 2012 a lot. I'm beginning to change my do it yourself thinking. Our house needs a coat of stain. I can do it. I painted for years and have the equipment. Our house is on the side of a hill so lots of ladder work. Having it done by a local guy that was trained by someone I know and he took over his company. I'm going to sit and watch, drink a beer and write a check. Oh how times have changed.
I understand the process of draining fluid as compared to pumping out or sucking out fluid. I would never do this to my motor oil. A trans is different to me. Yes, drain and fill should be better. But I have never seen a trans filter that was plugged up unless the trans was already shot . The y pipe is a pain to deal with. I use this, works great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AJR8E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Do the pan drop and filter at 40 - 50 K miles. Then suck out 6 quarts every 15 K miles and replace with new fluid. Drop pan and filter at 100 K miles. My 2 cents.
diyer2 replied to Gerry32's topic in 1988-1999 Chevrolet & GMC C/K GMT400 PlatformI think it's out of time. You have to check if the distributor was installed right. To me it's 180 degrees off.
There are a variety of reasons for your worst day. Mine. December 12, 2012. The day we learned the wife had a benign brain tumor. She had lost the hearing in her right ear and that 's what sent up a red flag. The type of tumor she has I can't remember the name but it can grow like a weed is what we were told or fast and could kill her. The next year sucked. She will have to have high resolution MRI's for life because they couldn't remove all the tumor during surgery. Then cyberknife, radiation to kill what was left. The MRI's are to check if it starts growing.
diyer2 replied to diyer2's topic in Garage & Home, Snow Plowing, Landscaping, & Lawn CareUpdate..................... I did my truck yesterday. I think a bigger compressor would make a huge difference. It worked but there are better systems out there. Motive Products for one it seems.
I used this to do the wife's Accord. My truck is next. Put brakes on all 4 corners of the wife's Accord. Then replaced the brake fluid. This works but it takes a lot of air. I read the reviews about the amount of air it takes to work well. I used a 3 h.p. 6 gallon tank, oil bath air compressor. Set at 100 psi to the tool. Directions say to use 90 - 120 psi. It ran constantly so I put a 20 inch box fan on it to help cool it. I would start the air flow and the compressor would start in 5 seconds. I would let the compressor run for maybe a minute. Then I would stop the air flow and let the compressor build air. Let it cool for a few minutes and start again. It took a while to to exchange the brake fluid but it worked with my small compressor. The directions say to continue removing brake fluid until no air bubbles can be seen in the hose. I was never able to get all the air to stop showing up in the hose. I think it could be air getting sucked in around the bleeder valve. Just a guess. After replacing the fluid with this tool I hand bleed each wheel because of the air in the hose. I hooked the bleeder hose on this tool the the bleeder valve. I thought for sure there would be air in the brake lines because of the air bubbles in the hose using this tool. All the wheels bleed without air. This is what made me think it was sucking air in around the loosened bleeder valve. I figure a big compressor, like one used to paint a car would make it fast. For the cost of less than $40 it's easier than pumping the brake pedal and makes it a one man job. Link to tool https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html
diyer2 replied to diyer2's topic in Garage & Home, Snow Plowing, Landscaping, & Lawn CareYes, worth it to me. All the wheels bled without air. Easy to check. After using tool, leave it hooked up to the bleed valve. Have someone pump the pedal up and check for air. No mess using the tool to catch the fluid. The air is visible at the spot where the fitting for the bleeder valve meets the tubing. And I did try to open the bleeder valve just enough to get fluid moving. The cost is right for me and the tool works. This is a tool that will get used sparingly, every few years. If I did this weekly I could justify a professional tool.
What do you want to know? Threads on here about cans for other models. Same principal on all motors IMO. Some use them, some don't. If I had a direct injection motor it would have a can. Put one on my 2012 non direct injection motor.
You can upload pictures to your attachment file on the forum web site and then use those pictures in your posts without having to use a host site like Imgur or photo bucket. I have pics in my attachment file but can't figure out how to upload more pics.
What do you mean? How often were you doing oil changes? What oil and filters? What NOAK is the oil you are using? Adding heavier oil IMO was the wrong idea due to the design of the oil passages for the DOD system. Maybe try Amsoil, Redline and see if it helps. An oil with a lower NOAK rating should help with oil loss.
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