txab

If headlights stay on all the time, then your sensor in the dash is in need of replacing. First make sure you don't have anything covering the sensor including a dash mat

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Was it leaking prior to WP change? Leak that large should be easy to find if it's external. Have you thoroughly gone over the engine, hoses, radiator, etc... ? I think you mean head gasket (HG) not valve cover.

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Just connect the hoses directly to the heater core tubes with screw clamps. Or try the Gates brand version of the disconnects

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After replacing the battery the system will attempt to re-calibrate itself. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/150420-air-door-stuck-on-hot/?do=findComment&comment=1318661

Congrats on all your successes. I'd use a silicone grease on the rubber boot at the shaft. Which fan clutch did you use? Might post part number for future readers. Look into OdorXit. They have several products/versions of their product. I've used them in the past for odors in vehicle and in houses as well. Easily available. https://www.odorxit.com/shop-now-odorxit-products?gclid=Cj0KCQiAxs3gBRDGARIsAO4tqq3EWP2yyx8SNYiZZ-fV8AsMwruhHGOuJMY-D_UWwkkf-9HU1FxR6cUaAmQQEALw_wcB Good luck for your dad!

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No electronics in OEM diff. Sounds like it may have locked, as it should when there is enough speed differential between the two rear wheels. Did you hear a clunk? When it locks you can usually hear it. I would think driving in a straight line you would have had no issue. Most people notice it during turns, when the axles need to rotate at different speeds. You might change the diff fluid, if never serviced. Plenty of options out there. 75w-90 synthetic. Mobile 1, Amsoil severe gear, even Wally's synthetic brand will work for you. Whichever one you feel comfortable with. No need for any added friction modifiers for a G80 diff. Look at RPO sheet in glove box for the code. Only other thing would be a brake suddenly grabbing for some reason.

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Stock radio or aftermarket?