I don’t have a can, but I have 23k on my 2019 6.2L and haven’t had any meaningful consumption between changes (every 5k miles or so) and have never had to add any. I’d be going nuts if mine used 20 oz in five THOUSAND miles at this point in its life! Your sister definitely had some bad luck. I wonder if a lemon law could help you out. I think they vary state by state. Don’t know the details, but it might be worth a look. Good luck.
I was able to run a really small harbor freight oil less air compressor to fill the tank up to air up some small tires a couple times, which pleasantly surprised me, but I had to be close to the limit.
I skipped them and don’t regret it. My previous vehicle (a Mazda CX-9) had pretty much the whole array and I never found them very useful and in a few cases, even potentially dangerous. Lane keep would try to alarm/intervene when drifting over a bit to miss a hole in the road, intentionally clipping the apex of a curve, etc, which was annoying so that got turned off very quickly. The auto braking could obviously be helpful if you fell asleep or got too engrossed in Facebook while cruising down the road, but on the other hand, if you’re actually paying attention, on more than one occasion I was in the process of safely passing a stopped car when it jammed the brakes on without warning at the last moment. Fortunately it never caused an issue but it’s not hard to imagine how that could be dangerous. I don’t have much negative to say about blind spot monitoring, but if you’re paying enough rearward attention you shouldn’t need it, and I don’t recall it ever actually being a factor in 50k miles or so. It also didn’t work at all while towing, not sure if that’s also the case on the trucks. I love technology, and I fully accept that there will likely be a day in the not terribly distant future when I take a nap in the backseat while my truck drives me to where I’m headed, but from what I’ve seen all this driver assist tech still has a lot of work to be done to get to a place where I’m excited by it enough to voluntarily pay for it (or in some cases even leave it enabled after I have). I did appreciate the HUD on the Mazda but don’t really miss it on the truck. I did get the 6.2 and am very happy I did. The occasional romp onto the highway and easy trailer pull up a hill at 80mph make the premium gas worth every penny.
Backing up starts before you shift into reverse too. If you know you’re going to have to turn while backing up, be sure to approach in a way that has your truck and trailer kinked in the right direction before you even start. For instance, if you’re going to have to back up and turn the trailer left, try to approach from the left to right and then turn the truck hard left at the last moment (while still pulling forward). Then you can get the wheels straightened out and back up. If you get it bent right before you start, it’ll naturally want to start going the way you want it to with a lot less fighting. And for that matter, if you want to back up straight try to be as straight as possible before you start backing up. Sometimes your options are limited but thinking a move or three ahead will make your life much easier.
If you decide to go 18”, you can pretty much always find a new take off set or more of the basic 2019 Silverado 18” rims on eBay for $600 delivered (for example: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F352820310065 ) I just caught this deal ( https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254323762814 ) on a set of 18” AT4 rims with tires and swapped around and am using my factory rims with a set of Nokian Hakka LT3s (one size taller) and the factory all seasons on the new rims for my summer set, and am selling the Goodyears, hopefully for enough to end up around that same $600 mark on my new wheels.
Yeah, I skipped the free one even. It's just easier and quicker for me to drive it up on a ramp and do it myself in the driveway than to schedule an appointment, drive to the dealer, and sit and wait for them to do it and have no idea what they've done, not done, what oil they actually used, etc. The most recent nightmare service story I've heard (of many) was from a friend of mine who recently took his 1 year old car in to the dealer for an oil change and somebody left a bunch of rags under the hood. A few days later he was out with his family on the interstate late at night and the rags got caught up in the serpentine belt, throwing it off, and stranding them in a basically brand new car.
On p.276 of the GMC manual it says not to tow for the first 500 miles, and also that "it is recommended to perform the first oil change before heavy towing." My trailer definitely isn't heavy (a 6x12 enclosed trailer that might weigh 2500 lbs as I have it loaded), but I waited 500 miles as it says and also changed the oil before towing it anyway.
I think this probably happens automatically within their inventory system or something. I saw mine on the dealer’s website too, but as soon as it arrived I got a call as promised and picked it up later that day.
Agreed. I had the auto braking feature on my last car and it would trigger in similar situations, making passes around cars where I knew exactly what I was going to do. Always felt it was about as likely to cause a crash as prevent one. Happy I left all the assistance tech out on the truck. And I’m a tech guy by trade. I did sort of like the adaptive cruise sometimes when driving on the interstate behind a trail of cars following someone blocking up the left lane, but otherwise never used it that much. Definitely isn’t something I miss.
I just signed up for a 1 day repairprocedures.com subscription. It's $15, but they have a pretty awesome archive of info, including what appears to be a full service manual. Anyway, the details on this seem to be that the system sees the battery voltage dropping while parked, which makes sense because I just added a BlackVue dashcam system with park mode that's drawing power while the truck is off, as long as the battery doesn't get too low. When the system sees a low voltage, it tries to wake up some other modules to do various things. But in earlier versions of the software, the codes that it sends to wake up those other modules may not be correct. There's an updated software that became available on 3/18/19. My truck was built about a week before that.
I just signed up for a 1 day subscription to repairprocedures.com to grab a service bulletin related to an issue I'm seeing with my truck. And as a bonus, it looks like they have a pretty complete service manual there. It's not cheap, I paid $15 for the day, but there's a ton of content.
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