relevante

It was definitely a little gummed up. Time will tell if the stumble happens again, but it sure does seem to be idling smoother now. The first time I pulled up to a stop sign I thought it quit running. Thanks for the tip.

95k. I’ll give that a shot. Thanks.

My 2019 6.2L will sometimes have a brief stumble when it’s cold. The first few times I thought it might have been traction control kicking in when pulling out onto slick roads but it happened today when it was idling after remote starting it. RPMs just fell for a moment, and then it took back off and was fine the rest of the day. Runs perfectly otherwise. Don't ever recall this happening prior to the past two months or so. It’s happened maybe 5-10 times since then. Any thoughts? No CEL and no codes when I checked the other day. Only specific thought I’ve had is maybe a fuel filter? AI suggests a MAF sensor cleaning which seems maybe reasonable?

Yeah, part of me wishes I'd just traded it for a 2500 last summer. According to KBB mine has dropped 25% in value since then. Oh well, too late now. Let's gamble!

I just feel like that's the same work I'd be doing if a lifter goes (or potentially more even), but instead of having a 1% chance or a 5% chance or whatever the chance actually is, by deciding to do it, I'd be voluntarily choosing a 100% chance of doing the work. I know a lot of times a lifter going leads to an engine replacement, but I think a lot of that has to do with dealer shop labor rates and expertise changing the economics to where that's just what makes sense. And if it was under warranty, I'd kick and scream until I got a new engine out of it. But for me out of warranty, I'd most likely park it and take my time tearing it down and fixing it. Plus, I might be the only one here, but I actually appreciate the fuel savings of DoD. I'm amazed when I can get like 20MPG going 85 on the highway in 6000lb vehicle with all the aerodynamics of a barn. So if it's not actually causing a problem for me, I wouldn't mind keeping it, particularly if there's a way to get some advance notice if a problem is developing (at which point I might just do the delete to be done with it while I'm in there).

Yeah, agree - my main thing is, if a lifter is on its way out, I'd like to catch it before it totally fails and blows the engine full of metal chunks and who knows what else. In that case, I don't even think replacing the engine would be my answer. I'd just park it and take my time opening it up and replace the lifters and cam and maybe do a DoD delete at the same time (although I'm not nearly as big a hater of DoD as many are, I'd probably turn into one once it led to me having to rip my engine apart). So at that point the cost (at least dollar cost) wouldn't even be that great. At least as importantly, I'd prefer to know ahead of time so I don't end up stranded on the side of a snowy road with my son and his friends going skiing when it's -15 out and we're 3 hours from home and we all have work/school the next day. Really curious if any one has reported a failure that was picked out early by oil analysis or misfires or any other symptom. Seems almost obvious to me that it would be detectable, but again, also just seems weird that no one is talking about it as a way to help manage this risk.

Yeah, I've babied this thing since day one, planning to keep it for the long haul. Changed the diffs and transfer case fluids at 4300 miles (dealer parts guy looked at me like I was insane when I went in to get fluid) and again since then, did the trans fluid and filter, etc, etc. I'm pretty invested in it (time more than money, really) so hoping to stick with that plan.

I've definitely seen a few reports of 2019s failing, but I do think it's probably less common. Part of why I'm leaning toward just continuing to roll the dice. But I'd like to have some way to keep eyes on it to get some advance warning if something is starting to go. Seems hard to believe that something like that lifter on the right in the attached picture (and the matching cam lobe wear) wouldn't show up in an oil analysis before completely failing, but I'm just a little surprised with all the chatter on the subject, I don't see anyone talking about it. Same with watching the misfire counts.

Every 5k typically. Longest it ever went (one time) was 6,200. Average interval over the life of the truck is 4,950. Always full synthetic, quality filters, etc.

Have been thinking more and more about the lifters on my 2019 6.2L with about 95k on it. No symptoms so far, but just weighing options in terms of keeping the truck, trading it, possibly doing a preemptive service, etc. At this point my feeling is that the odds are good enough that with some good monitoring I should be able to get comfortable that I could get some warning of a problem before it gets too far along. How likely is it that I'd see signs in idle misfire counts (pulling from an OBD tool, not just looking for a CEL) before a lifter totally fails? And with the failure modes I see with people doing the repair (the rollers and cam lobes eating each other) it seems like there would be an early signal in oil analysis with increased metals. Unfortunately I just changed my oil and didn't think to grab a sample, but am I right to think that if I start sampling there's a good chance I'd see early signs of a problem before it gets catastrophic? Anything else to keep an eye on?

I didn’t want to replace with another set of factory lines given how quickly the originals started leaking, and I didn’t like the idea of clamping with no barbs either. I ended up cutting the factory lines just before where the flex line crimps were on either end and bought a flare tool and flared them (I took them off the truck for this) and used AN fittings and flexible braided oil line to make new flex sections. That was just over 2 years/30k miles ago and it’s still going strong. EDIT: attached an image of the parts I ordered from Jegs.

I didn’t want to replace with another set of factory lines given how quickly the originals started leaking, and I didn’t like the idea of clamping with no barbs either. I ended up cutting the factory lines just before where the flex line crimps were on either end and bought a flare tool and flared them (I took them off the truck for this) and used AN fittings and flexible braided oil line to make new flex sections. That was just over 2 years/30k miles ago and it’s still going strong.

Not so sure about that. Seems reasonable to me that after his last post, he ran the motor a bit, had the oil changed and looked in the filter and found metal.

I cut and flared the factory lines and used AN fittings and replaced the middle section with braided hose. Some others have just used rubber hose and hose clamps even I think if you dig back in this thread a bit.

Not me. I called GM corporate and they said something like maybe I could get 10 or 20% covered as goodwill but I’d have to take it to get checked out first. I already had a bunch of stuff taken apart so I just did my own modification/repair.

That’s awful. My first line of reasoning with them would be “How did the oil cooler line blow off if there was no oil?” No oil would mean no pressure which would mean no blown oil line. Of course they know this, but they’re just hoping you don’t or that you’ll give up. I will say, the closest I’ve ever had to an issue like this was with a very expensive plasma TV I bought back in the day. It came with a stuck bright green pixel. The disclaimer in the manual said something to the effect of “defects not visible from more than 8’ away are considered normal.” This bright green dot was visible from anywhere in the room. I went around and around with the dealer and with Pioneer customer service for literally months. Eventually someone on a forum suggested I contact BBB. I figured it was a waste but was pretty much out of ideas, so I did. And within a few days I got a phone call from some VP of customer relations or something like that at Pioneer, and a couple days later two guys came with a brand new TV, set it up and hauled mine out in the same box. So maybe that’s worth a shot? Wouldn’t count on it working but can’t hurt.

Skid plate is carefully engineered to hold just enough oil to get you out of the warranty period before dripping. Tech screwed it all up by actually removing it for the inspection.

I couldn't figure out any other way. Had to take it loose and move it out of the way. Which is worse because the bolt(s) that hold it go from inside the box out, so you also have to disassemble the box to get to them. It's really not that bad but it was pretty annoying to figure that out.

I turned it a half a turn to get it facing out and then I think I used a pair of pliers or something on it. Definitely wasn't happening for me without getting it turned to where I could see it though.

If I remember correctly, it had a release that you have to press, but it was facing toward the engine. I loosened it half a turn to get better access to unhook the cable I think.

Here's what I ended up with. I'd have probably put the joints in slightly different spots, but I kinked the factory lines trying to get them out before I decided to cut and reuse them, so I worked with what I had at that point.

If I remember correctly, to do it with cutting the lines and doing an aftermarket flex line in between, all I had to do to get them out was: Remove the skid plates Remove the two bolts holding the lines to the block Remove the nut holding the clamp on the lines to the block (follow the lines forward from the attachment point with the sensor on it -- easier to remove from the front) Disconnect both lines from the radiator (spring clips) Unbolt clamp securing the lines to the radiator (or something else near the radiator, can't remember exactly) Unclip a number of plastic clips holding the lines down to the bottom of the radiator or the frame Cut the lines Remove On the other hand, as for getting them out and in all as one piece, if you look back at the top of this thread, @Tx_Bowtie pulled his front bumper to get access, and I can't say I disagree with that approach. I tried doing it first all together without taking much else off and quickly realized it was somewhere between a huge PITA and impossible. That's when I decided to just spend the time rolling my own instead of removing a bunch of other stuff to get access. If you are going to mod and do your own flex lines, save some time and figure out and mark where you're going to make the connections before you remove the lines. Just make sure you have good clearance because the AN fittings are quite a bit larger. I used some cut up pieces of the factory rubber hose slit lengthwise and put over the aluminum lines in a few places to protect them just in case things shifted around.

If you're planning to mod the lines, just start by cutting them in half at the rubber hose and they'll come out and go back in really easily. Then you can do all your cutting and flaring on the bench, reinstall the two sections and then fit the new flex line on the truck. On the other hand, getting them in and out in one piece seemed nearly impossible without taking a bunch of other stuff apart.

Everything you need is already on the lines. At least the ones I bought for the 6.2 were that way. You don't get new bolts or spring clips but you can reuse the old ones.

Good idea. It’s easier and likely better than just replacing them IMO.