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About reardiff

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  1. Exact same thing on my 2017. There's several topics on this, read through the thread below and that should answer most of your questions. Here is a link to the TSB which was updated in Feb. 2019.
  2. Thanks, happen to have any pics? I was leaning towards the 1.5 not only because of the crappy ball joint but also because sometimes I think the 2.25 looks too level, I kind of like a little rake of maybe an inch or so. But seeing some pics may help. I have done quite a bit of research on the ready lift kit with UCA's as well and was my next option. That with labor and a set of KO2's was going to be about $2,000. Was hoping to not spend that much but if that's what it takes to do it right and have no rubbing then I'm not entirely against it. Any pics you have would be great.
  3. I know there have been several topics on this already so I'll keep it short. Specifically looking to hear from those who have the stamped steel UCA (2017 - 2018) and have 275/60/20 tires on stock wheels. I think I've convinced myself to not go with UCA replacements and go up to 275/60/20 with a 1.5 inch level. My question is anyone have any tire rub with this tire size on stock wheels? Again, just looking for input from those with stamped steel UCA's. 2014 - mid 2016 had cast steel or aluminium which don't seem to be a problem.
  4. Curious why you replaced the driveshaft? Was it to fix a vibration?
  5. I sort of like that idea, except then somebody else will be in this same situation as I am, who ever they resell it to later, and I couldn't get my self to do that. Also they know I have this already and sent them a very long email(s) explaining so they might be suspicious of it...
  6. Yes, I was thinking the same thing, maybe this is for a 2019 with 5.3? That would explain the slight difference in length not mating up to the flange at the cat? It's a GM part so it has to go to some variety of the Silverado/Sierra likely with 5.3 based on the 3 inch size. I did pay with a credit card and actually never thought about disputing it. I may consider that, thanks for the advice. I may take it to a muffler shop and see what they can do but the whole point was to have something quality mandrel bent, stainless with no welds to rust out . But on the other hand something is better than nothing at this point considering I have almost $1,000 into it already. I thought about contacting Borla directly but none of the pieces have any part numbers stamped on them or any type of identifiers. Yes that's correct if you order the non GM version. The GM version is offered in dual side exit, This is GM part# 19303345, here's a link to it on the GMC accessory site. From what I can tell the only difference is this has the flapper built into it where the other non GM version does not. If anyone would like pictures or measurements or make an offer, just send me a PM. All brand new clamps included, I have two Chrome tips for it as well.
  7. It all started when after months of searching and reviewing, I decided to pull the trigger on GM Borla Performance exhaust. I have 2017 Crew Cab Short box with 6.2 so ordered part# 19303345 (dual side exit). Searched around on-line and found the cheapest price of $970 + free shipping (not including tips) from GM Parts Warehouse. Fast forward a few weeks and it arrives... here's where my major mistake lies. Due to the size of the box it came in I took the contents out put in my garage shelf and threw out the box. Everything visually looks fine, so the following weekend when I get to putting the exhaust on I hack off the stock exhaust and then when I try to bolt up the new one quickly realize it doesn't fit! The front pipe that connects to the cat is about two inches too short and the pipe diameter is only 3 inch when it should be 3.5 inch (pictures below) So now I have the stock exhaust cut off with no new exhaust to put back on. Luckily I was able to run down to a local shop and they were able to weld my hacked up stock exhaust back on. I know 100% I ordered the right part # and the receipt shows the same, but obviously they sent me the wrong one, and stupid me never even looked at what the box said, I was just so excited to get it. So now I have exhaust the doesn't' fit, and don't have the original packaging or any proof they sent me the wrong parts. Same day, I called and left a voice mail and followed up with an e-mail explaining my situation and never heard back. Left few more messages and follow up e-mails and never heard back, as if they completely vanished. My problem now is I'm out $970 and have a brand new Borla exhaust system sitting in my garage that doesn't fit and can't do anything with it and what seems as no recourse to get it corrected. Curious for any words of wisdom anyone may have. If anyone is interested I can take measurements, and pictures and be willing to let it go at a decent price, looks like it should fit 5.3?. All the parts are there including clamps but just doesn't fit my CC 6.2. Gap at front connection to cat. New Borla Exhaust = 3 Inch Stock Exhaust = 3.5 inch
  8. Any rubbing with those 275/60/20's? I'm looking to get a set that size with a 1.5 inch level but based on the other posts on here it seems even a 275/60/20 will rub at full lock reverse even with a level because of those pesky stamped steel UCA's.
  9. I haven't looked, mostly because I didn't think at 25k miles I needed to but now I think I will. Don't hear any unusual braking noises or rotor wear but worth a check, something made that happen. Aren't the inside of the wheels clear coated? If so, is brake clean going to be to harsh and strip the clear off? I can see a coat of wax helping with the corrosion and build up, especially up here where the salt is thick.
  10. fantastic, good to hear this should come off. What's odd is it's just the one wheel, the other three look fine, and the wheels have been rotated every 5k miles so they have spent equal time under different brake/rotors so not sure why just this one wheel is this way? I'll get some polish and give it a shot..
  11. Anyone had any rust/pitting spots on the inside of their wheels? Was rotating the tires yesterday and three of the 4 looked fine but one had small rust spots all over and wasn't sure why just the one? Just on the inside, the outside facing finish appearance is fine but worrying about it spreading. These are the 20 inch snowflake polished aluminum wheels with 25,000 miles on them. Is this something that would be covered under warranty? Notice how it's only in the middle and the two 1 inch or so rings around the edge that don't show any rust spots? Pictures below. First two are the wheel in question, Last picture is a different wheel for comparison and they way the other three look, like they should.
  12. My curiosity got the better of me as I was trying to visualize what 26 inch rims would look like so did a quick google search. This one appears to be lowered, but honestly, it looks way better than I thought it would. Is this the look your going for? Those are some thin sidewall tires those are for sure
  13. This! My last truck I bought new in 2003 and was aiming to keep it 'forever' like you and has all the maintenance done as recommended if not earlier and washed and waxed regularly, especially in the winter. Like you no major issues and really got to love the truck. Fast forward to 2016 the rust started taking over in the rockers and spread so quickly with in a year I could put my entire foot up inside where the rocker used to be. Underside was entirely rusted too, including the frame which I spend many hours every year scraping and sanding and painting, which is a loosing battle. Seeing this was a never ending battle, I bought my 2017 and decided I need to plan to keep it not much longer than 10 years. We'll see, but if your anywhere where road salt or brine is used 10 years max is about what you can expect before the rust starts to take over slowly from the bottom up. I'm trying things like regular use of fluid film on the underside of this truck to see if that is any different but still don't plan to see much difference over the course of 10 years of daily driving.
  14. Sorry to not come back to this for a while, few things came up and never got back to the store until today. So interestingly enough, when I returned today all the old stuff was gone and looked to be replaced with new stock. Wish I had got a picture of it when I was there originally. Black02Silverado thanks for the info on the date stamp, I took a look at the new bottles and look to be from July 2019. I got 8 quarts of 0W20 signature series on sale for $9.99 a quart at Farm and Fleet in Montgomery IL, if anyone's in the area and interested, although their prices seem to fluctuate quite a bit.
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