reardiff

Right.. I was referring to the axle nut washer. Didn’t realize that was there and needed replaced also. Completely unrelated, I was just crawling underneath and noticed a missing swaybar bracket bolt, which may explain a random faint clunk I’ve noticed. Not the stabilizer link but the bracket that holds the sway bar bushing. Any chance you would know what size that is?

Thank you! This is exactly what I needed. I’ve heard both ways on replacing the bolts, but was prepared to. Assuming they are not torque to yield like the axle nut makes sense not to need to replace them at nearly $10 a piece. Thanks for the call out on the washer as well, I would have missed that.

Just finished up ball joints, rear brakes, now moving on to fronts and planning on wheel hubs while I’m there. Two questions. 1) Should the hub mounting bolts be replaced or can they be reused? 2) I get two different part numbers for the bolts 15719028 and 11546341. They seem interchangeable but one seems to have 21.5 OD and the other 24 OD. Called the dealer and they did verify both are shown but only stock 15719028. Hoping someone can verify the difference and which is the correct one? It’s for a 2017 Sierra 1500,

Anyone have any experience with Raybestos E3 brake calipers? Looking for new, not remanufactured and these seem to keep coming up. Also I like the zinc coating which some of the others like AC Delco are not. I’m not set on any one brand, just looking for decent replacements (rear) that are new and will hold up will with corrosion. There’s also no core return for the E3’s which I like. These also have dual bleeders so can be used right or left. I assume you would just bleed as normal using the top bleeder only?

Yes I got a printed quote. Labor is $1,275 (665 lower and 560 upper, both sides) and $1,060 parts ($150 each upper and $380 each lower). For OEM part prices seem within reason, from what im seeing, I’m just not sure how many hours to divide the labor cost by. They were pretty loose when they showed me so not doubting it needs done and glad I caught it now vs later but just trying to assess it that’s a reasonable price. It also includes an alignment.

What’s a reasonable price for replacing all four ball joints for a 2017 sierra 1500. Local reputable shop quoted $2,400 for replacing all four control arms & ball with OEM parts. Seems pretty steep to me, but they are OEM vs cheaper aftermarket and includes a 3 year 36k warranty. Does that sound high or reasonable?

As the title states, BF Goodrich just rolled out 19 new sizes for the K03 with Phase 5 Launch on May 1st. I know a lot on here, including myself, run a 275/60/20. My current KO2's are near the end and may be replacing with the KO3 now that they are available in more sizes. BFGoodrich rolling out more sizes in All-Terrain T/A KO3,

Does the split/convoluted tubing offer any heat protection, or does it need to? Most of what I see says temp range up to 200, which is where it would be most of the time and likely why it crumbled to begin with. I'm sure I'm way overthinking this, but having wiring bundle literally sitting on top of the water pump just doesn't sound like a great idea with as hot as it gets. But on the other hand, that's how it came from the factory with just that thin plastic split tubing over it.

When changing out the thermostat recently I noticed the wire loom (corrugated plastic conduit) is very brittle and disintegrates just by touching it where the wiring goes across the water pump. I assume it's because of the heat and how close it is touching the pump. I'm also assuming leaving this the way it is isn't a good idea with it sitting right on top of the water pump. Anyone have any suggestion on what to get that may withstand the heat better? I couldn't find anything on-line or at the store that mentioned withstanding heat and figured it would just melt or do the same.

This is great, learn something every day, and thank you @newdude for the detailed info. Each of you have been helpful and why I love these forums. I as well didn't realize the GM part hierarchy with OEM/Gold/Silver but makes sense when you think about it. Relating to NAPA, I also tend to shop there vs the other stores and have found their parts to be pretty reliable compared to the competition (Napa Gold filters, etc..). Other things like this I try to stick with OEM where I can but as we have seen that's not always easy.

Turns out P/N 12674639 is unavailable just about everywhere. Ended up finding one on-line from a GM Dealer in TX, but they said that part was unavailable and cancelled the order. So now I go searching for 1151125, which is out or stock also at most places also but supposedly found one on Rock Auto that should ship today - we'll see. Can someone confirm that 1151125 is indeed 207 the correct ACDelco replacement? On Rock Autos website is confusing, it says opening temp 100 Degrees C (212 F), and then down further says start to open temp 194. Then they also have 1511125G. They both seem the same as far as I can tell. Not sure what the difference is but it's $12 cheaper.

If you have a 2016 with 6.2, there's extended coverage on the trans temp sensor. GM released a special coverage that extends the warranty to repair this, up to 10 years or 120,000 miles. It's special coverage #N192291660. This isn't a cheap fix, mine went out not long ago and was $900 out of pocket. They have to drop the pan and replace the sensor and harness. For whatever reason the special coverage only applies to model year 2016. Although I'm not sure this has anything to do with your MPG issue, I had the same as you with erratic trans temp readings then eventually a check engine light that would come on and off but didn't seem to change MPG. Here's a separate post on it you may find helpful.

Thanks for the replies. As always very helpful. Is there a difference between and 1511125? They seem the same except 12674639 is the GM# and 1151125 is the ACDelco #? Neither mention the opening temp in the description but assuming both are 207. Regarding temp reading, yes I’m going off the hash marks on the gage, although using an OBDII modules sounds like a much better way to get a more accurate reading. Any recommendations on those? Don’t need anything fancy, but something that can monitor things like coolant and trans temp would be nice when trying to trouble shoot things like this.

Looks like I'm in need of a new thermostat (won't get above 180/185 degrees). I know there's lots of post on thermostats, but one question I can't find an answer to is 194 vs 207. I prefer to go with OE / AD Delco, based off what I've seen on different forums, but there's two options and can't seem to find which one is a direct replacement, or why there are even two to pick from? It's for a 2017 Sierra with the 6.2. Appreciate any insight anyone may have.

Thanks for the replies, I did a more thorough check and didn't see any drips, I think I'm just going to clean it up and just keep an eye on it for now. If it gets worse, we'll readdress it then. Are these oil or trans fluid lines?

Noticed the other day that there's a fair amount of oil build up on one of the oil lines just below the vacuum pump. I can some seepage from the crimp where the rubber and metal lines connect but also kind of looks like it may be coming from the pump? Anything to be concerned about? Easy replacement? I am thinking of changing out the vacuum pump since it's original and nearing the end of the extended warranty on it. Now wondering if I should do this while I'm there but trying to gage how difficult (or necessary) that it would be to replace the lines also. It's a 2017 with 6.2.

After scouring various sites and articles, this is by far the best 'simple' answer I've seen yet and makes perfect sense. I don't do extended OCI, but also do a lot of very short trips and in a colder winter climate. So, sounds like frequent OCI is the key here. Thanks for the insight.

Speaking of vacuum pumps... Anyone else have a 2017/2018 still on the original pump? Mines still going strong after 7 years and 90k miles, but starting to wonder if I'm on borrowed time and change it out proactively, or if it's lasted this long just let it go? What's the secret to having these last or am I just lucky and got a good one?

Speaking of vacuum pumps... Anyone else have a 2017/2018 still on the original pump? Mines still going strong after 7 years and 90k miles, but starting to wonder if I'm on borrowed time and change it out proactively, or if it's lasted this long just let it go? What's the secret to having these last or am I just lucky and got a good one?

Thanks this is helpful. I checked all over and numerous searches but forgot the most obvious to check the BFG Website directly. I guess we'll go with a new set of KO2's, they just get so darn squirly when wet once they get worn past halfway. The KO3 appears they fixed this with a new compound that wears more evenly throughout the life of the tire. Going up to a 275/65 also means going from Load D to E which I've had before and is noticeably stiffer.

Anyone know when 275/60/20 KO3 tire size is to be available? I've searched all over and seems they have several (over 100) sizes coming out at different times over the next two years but nothing specific as to what size when. Currently have the KO2's and needing a new set but would hold out for the KO3 if it was going to be sooner than later. Everything I've read seems they are an improvement in just about all categories, wear, wet pavement traction, road noise, etc..

I agree with MikeBMW. There was a very noticeable improvement in ride quality, although what they were replacing was stock with 85k miles and leaking in the rear, so most likely anything would have been an improvement. But overall couldn't be happier, like said above going over things like railroad tracks or dips in the road or those rough expansion joints are where you notice it most. I'd also highly recommend as well. Now I just have to get the ride height dialed in where I want it.

Thanks - now that you mention that the reason I'm wanting to change for a lower one is last week had a new set of all 4 shocks/struts put on - Bilstein 5100's. But now it sits about 3/4 of an inch higher. No idea why since it was on the lowest setting which should have been stock height. Maybe it will settle after driving a bit? But the bolts should be free. I was on the fence prior to this, but now it just bugs me and just think I'd like to go down about an inch or so. or maybe it's an excuse to go up a tire size and fill the gap in that way ; )

I currently have a 2-inch leveling block on the bottom shock mount in the front and thinking I want to go down to either 1.5 or 1 inch instead. Is this as easy as unbolting and sliding the old one out and new one in? Or will the shock drop down and have to fight it to get it back in with loosening tie rod, sway bar, etc. I'd rather do this myself, if it's literally unbolted, take old one out, then slide new one in. But if requires more effort I may just have someone, do it for me than fight with it. I watched them put on what's in there in now a few years ago, and looks like they loosened things up quite a bit to get enough room.

To follow up on this, I ended up going with 5100's. I was going to go with 4600 but suprisingly the fronts are nearly non existant or anywhere to be found. Checked numerous on-line retailers and local parts stores and sold out everywhere. No idea why. That made the decision pretty easy with the 5100's. Got them for a decent price at Shock Surplus, all four for $475. Haven't installed them yet, going to do the rears myself but take it in for the fronts just because compressing those springs scare me. Once they get on I'll let you all know what the ride quality opinoin is.