reardiff

I currently have 85,000 miles on the stock shocks and starting to leak. Time for replaceing. When replacing is it necessary or recommended to replace the front springs? I'm leaning towards keeping the springs as the truck has seen almost entirely on road use, but could be persuaded if there's a real reason. When compressing the springs, are the Parts store rentals ok / safe, or just take the entire assembly to a shop and have them swap it out? Also, other than the adjustable height, any noticable differences between the biltstein 5100 vs 4600? Truck stays on road most of the time and already has a 1.5 inch level so would be leaving it on the lowest setting, thus leaning towards 4600 but not a fan of the ugly yellow.

Had this done back in July. Noticed the temp display very erratic then eventually the light would come on and off with codes P0700 & P0711. You have to replace the entire harness, local dealer did it for $923 which includes a new filter. This is almost all labor. Parts (Harness, Filter, and Fluid) only came up to about $200, rest is all labor. Part number for the new harness is 24046895. As far as difficulty of replacement, there's plenty of you tube videos out there. Doesn't look too difficult as long as your comfortable removing the pan and valve body. What I don't understand is why there is special extended coverage for this exact same issue/part through model year 2016 but not 2017?

I have 275/60/20 on stick 20 in wheel with a 1.5 level and just BARELY rubs the control arm but only at full lock reverse. I’m not sure you could go much bigger than that without some kind of rub on a stock wheel. I have BFG K02’s but also may depend on the tire as well and if there’s larger lugs that may rub more than something less aggressive.

To report back, the dealer confirmed it was the trans temp sensor, but for some unknown reason there's special coverage for 2016 but not an identical vehicle for 2017. Same engine, transmission, etc. Total cost was $923 which included replacement of the sensor/harness and filter. The paperwork has 12 quarts of fluid on it which I doubt they actually used by just dropping the pan. Decided to skip the extra cost of a full flush and get the use out of the 8 quarts or however much the re-filled it with and then maybe do a flush in another 25k miles which will be just about 100k miles, at least it's got a new filter now and shouldn't have to drop the pan again later.

Same here

So I appear to have the dreaded faulty Trans Temp sensor. Very erratic transmission temperatures, shows as low as 44 degrees each morning even though it's maybe 75 degrees at the lowest in the garage and recently had the engine light come on with p0700 & 7011. I know the issue and the fix for it but have a few questions. 1. There's special coverage for this exact same condition for 2016's with the 6.2 and 8 speed but appears to be limited to 2016 model years only. Why? If the same issue is happening (same engine/transmission combination) for my 2017? I assume there's nothing I can do about this but will certainly ask the dealer when it goes in on Friday. 2. It's coming due for a full flush/fluid exchange. But the pan has to come off to replace the sensor/wiring harness. Is it still worth paying what I'm assuming is close to $200 for a full flush even though they already have to drop the pan to replace the sensor, or do I just let them fill it back up and call it good, knowing there's still plenty of fluid left that didn't get replaced? 3. Anyone know what the cost for this is? It's a 2017 but outside the powertrain warranty by about 9 months and 12,000 miles. It doesn't sound like a cheap fix. Which is why I'm curious about item #1. 4. Is it safe to drive this way? I assume so but not sure what all the trans temperature readings impact? Going to the dealer on Friday but hoping to gain a little more knowledge on the questions above from anybody has may have gone through this already.

Laura GMC has three 22's listed on their weibsite, listed around 5k off sticker.

I swapped mine out for this one from Boost Auto Parts and seems marginally wider. It fits my I Phone 11 just fine. The charging pads in pre 2018 are not the most current with gen 2 Qi charging, so if you want to charge most newer phones you'll need to upgrade anyways.

Thanks - I was able to get a part number stamped on it. It's part # 2427111 for anyone interested. It's what hangs down between the transmission pan and the exhaust next to the cat. What's strange is no matter which site I go to and type in Heat Shield even when putting in my specific make and model nothing comes up, but if I search for that part number, it comes up as Automatic Transmission Heat Shield. Glad I was able to get the part number off it otherwise I'd never find it. Hoping this one hangs on until the new one arrives. Automatic Transmission Heat Shield 24271111 | GMPartsDirect.comAutomatic Transmission Heat Shield 24271111 | GMPartsDirect.com

Was under the truck chasing down a rattle and noticed the heat shield that hangs down on the passanger side of the ransmission pan is broken off where it attacheds at the top and only hanging by 1 of the two attachment points. Anyone know the part number for this or where to find one? Also looks like it's bolted from the top so not sure how to reattached a new one? This is for a 2017 with 8 speed transmission.

Thanks, so I guess the question really is if the pump goes, the TSB shows to just replace the pump and belt. If the pump fails and oil gets in the vacuum line, booster, and master cylinder wouldn't all that need replaced too? Would the extend coverage cover all that as well or would they just replace the faulty pump and the rest all be out of pocket expenses? If that's the case, I'd rather replace it now on my own schedule and save that hassle and expense for what I'm assuming is inevitable.

I know the Vaccuum Pumps on the pre 2019 trucks have extended warranty coverage, but curious if there was any advantage of changing it out proactively before it does become a problem? Or should I just let it go until the extended coverage expires and then decide to either leave it or replace it (assuming it doesn't go by then). Is it just hit or miss on the part? What causes them to go bad, have had mine now for 6 years and 70,000 miles and never had any problems with it but sort of feel like it's only a matter of time. Yes, I did have the recall done but that was only programming to kick in the ABS if it was to fail so you don't accidently hit something when the pedal goes to the floor is how I understood it, not really fixing anything. Someone correct me if I'm wrong on that. Just curious if there's any reason, I should think about replacing it now (on my own dime), or let it go as long as it's under extended coverage? I also have AFM turned off not sure if that matters which it comes to vacuum produced or needed.

If it's the 8-speed transmission, tuners are engine only, Transmission is locked so you can't adjust shift firmness, etc... I have Diablo and honestly can't tell any difference in any of the tunes other than maybe just a little at the top RPM range. I use it primary to disable AMF and adjust for larger tire size but would love to get a tune for the crappy transmission.

Did you reuse the original gasket?

Noticed the center (third) brake light was out today. Was reading up on it and seems many are also having issues with the seal leaking. Curious what others have done, just replace the bulb and put it back with the same gasket? Couldn't find a gasket separate, so then started looking at replacements assemblys and could either go OEM or LED aftermaket. So far no leaks and want to keep it that way. Curious what others have done and any advice from anyone who's tried one of the options mentioned above? Found several aftermarket LED alternatvies but have no idea on fitment or seal quality. If the original factory seal is still good, I'd like to take the cheap way out and just replace teh bulb, but if it's going to leak eventually I'd like to address that now and not have that problem later.

Just hit 61,000. on my 6.2 SLT. Only issue was the TCC shutter which the fluid was replaiced under warranty and fixed it. Other than that no mechanical work needed, although I'm still on the original vacume pump which I know I'm on borrowed time on. But that's covered under it's own special exteneded warranty.

Thats what I thought but wasn't sure what parameters may be changed in manual mode. Just wish it would hold 7 a little longer but I get they want to eek every MPG out if it they can in stock form. Funny how even months later after tuning out AFM I still automatially go to manual mode and up to 7 each time I put it in drive just out of habit.

A while back I got a Diablo handheld tuner that I really only use it turn off AFM off and for larger tire size. Prior to this I was constantly driving around in L7 to keep from going into V4. Since I got the tuner I find myself still going to L7 out of habit when driving around town most of the time. This got me wondering... Other than the obvious of being able to control what gear you’re in and not going into V4 (AFM), are there any other benefits, pros/cons of this vs ‘Drive’. Are there any other parameters that change when using the L gears? (TCC lock up, shift points, etc..) Or is it truly the same as ‘Drive’ but no AFM and you can control the gear selection? I do like the ability to hold 7th gear a little longer and not shift into 8th at less than 50mph.

If anyone else reading this is interested, PM me if interested. I'm ready to get rid of it so any reasonable offer will be accepted. All new never been installed. Have rectipt, GM part# 19303345.

While we're on the topic... is there any noticable difference in performance, airflow, backpressure, MPG, etc.. with the flapper? One would think anything inside the exhaust like this would impeed airflow. So other than sound, any benefits of removing it completely or forcing it open?

What year truck you have? Long story, but i have a brand new, never been used GM performance exhaust for a 20145 - 2018 CC SB 6.2. It's not in the box but I have the recepit for it. I belieave the muffler is either 3 or 3 1/2 in and dual 2.25 out. I have the exact same on my truck but ended up with two and just want it out of my garage at this point. Make and offer and it's yours, I'll even deliver it for free anywhere in the Chicago area.

I use Mothers Back To Black and have been for several years. Works great on all plastic trim. There's simular products out there but found this works the best and dosn't wash off as quickly. Maquires has a simular product that would be my second choice, just costs more. You should be able to buy it at most local stores, maybe even Walmart. Back-to-Black® Trim & Car Plastic Restorer | Mothers® Polish I have even used it on my Line-X bedliner. Takes some time to get it on evenly but can make your bed liner look brand new if your willing to spend the time to do it.

I have a 2017 with stock stamped steel UCA's, 1.5 inch level, and 275/60/20's on stock rims and no rubbing. I was going to get the Ready Lift UCA's at the time but decided to just wait and see how long I can get out of the stock control arm. So far 25,000 miles and no issues or rubbing. When it's time to replace them I'll most likely be going with the Ready Lift.

I went through the same thing when I did my level too. I found the link below to be most valuable. You can buy just the UCA or the kit with the spacers. There's plenty of other options out there, but found the Ready Lift UCA's to be a great aftermarket replacement at a reasonable price especially when adding a level. Ready Lift - UCA Info.

Need some help on weather this is an issue worth chasing or not. 2017 Sierra 6.2 / 8 speed, transmission temperatures are at times erratic. for example, it will jump from 90 to 120,then down to 88 and back up to over 100, etc.. Or times I'll be driving for an hour and it will show only 120 which I know it will be warmer than that. Doesn't happen all the time but maybe half the time . Outside air temp doesn't seem to change anything and drives fine with no engine light. I've done quite a bit of searching on this and read through the entire post below, but from what I can tell the special coverage applies to 2016 only? So my questions are: 1. Does the special coverage #N192291660 apply to 2017 or just 2016? Anyone have this done on their 2017? 2. Is it worth perusing? I could take it in but with out any engine lights/codes or symptoms other than odd temperature fluctuations I'm afraid they will say nothing found and will be a wasted trip and money. Powertrain warranty ends in September so if it's something that needs documented or fixed I'd like to do it before then, but if it's nothing then I'll just let it go and keep an eye on it. Drives and shifts fine. The post below was very helpful as the special coverage is specific to 6.2 / 8 speed, which I have, but didn't really address the questions above. Curious for any thoughts on if it's just let it go or worth a trip to the dealer? Last transmission fluid exchange was about 25k miles ago so the fluid should be good.