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schnid21's Achievements


Enthusiast (2/11)



  1. Hey guys I’ve read quite a few different posts on this but haven’t been able to 100% understand it / get my answer. I have a 2018 Sierra that has 100k km on it. Leveled since new with a RC spacer up front. Stock 20” rims with 33” BFG tires. I have lots of front end clunks and need to replace by upper ball joints. I was going to replace with aftermarket to correct the ball joint angles. Here is where the questions start though. I’ve looked at Ready Lift and Cognito. Cognito installation instructions say to cut the frame vs Ready Lift does not. I do plan to sell this truck in a year or two so I don’t want to start cutting it up unless I need to. Cognito seems to be the most popular brand. But again I would prefer not to cut anything. Is there any drawbacks to going with Ready Lift and not cutting the frame stops? I’ve also read various reviews where people say that if you cut the frame stops for the Cognito you should get longer struts to ensure proper travel? Any truth to this? Im looking to keep things simple. Just address the ball joint issue so any advice you have would be appreciated. Thanks Jason
  2. Thanks for the info. I just watched this video. Albeit that is a year or 2 newer truck. And based off what he found it look like the rubber would rub the upper control arm with stock rims and slightly bigger tires.
  3. Sorry if this has already been beat to death, but I did a bunch of searching and I could not find a straight answer for the 2018 trucks. Truck is a 2018 SLE with a 2" RC level (just the spacer). Stock 20" rims with 275/60/R20 rubber. I'm looking to get a set of upper control arms that will correct the ball joint angle. What options do I have for the 2018 (from what I can tell something changed on this year of truck that quite a few older versions won't work?). Will all the aftermarket options hit at full steer with the stock rims and offset? Thanks for any info that can point me in the right direction. Thanks Jason
  4. Google pass through ratchet set. The ratchet end is open so you can also put an Allen wrench in while tightening. We use them a lot when adjusting pumps and you need to loosen off a locknut and then adjust an Allen screw in the middle. http://www.amazon.com/BOSTITCH-BTMT72287-Through-Socket-65-Piece/dp/B00F3ZY4Y0
  5. Old post. But I have a 2016 M8000 sno pro sno checked. Counting the days til I take delivery. Wish I could figure out how I post pics from my iphone. I live for sledding. Count the days from the last ride til my first ride the next year. Live in southern ontario but drive out west at least once a year. Alpine and Jackson Wyoming last year.
  6. What truck are your pricing them on. I just replaced all the lines on my truck with one of the OEM kits from the dealer. It's includes 5 tubes. Only missing the rear axle tubes. Cost was 120$ Canadian. My old lines rotted out below the cab. Truck is a 2002 Sierra.
  7. If they are getting so hot you can't keep your hand on them then I would get a dealer to look at it. Like someone said maybe stabilitrak actuatin your brakes. On my older truck after the calipers seized a couple times and the rims got so hot the coating on them started to peel right around the center of the rim.
  8. I'd be pretty sure all your seeing is a bulb test. Normal start up process.
  9. X2 on the dura track. Mean lookin tire too. Buddy runs these. Personally I go With the classic BFG A/T. Ran them down loggin roads with 2 feet of snow in Northern Quebec with a sled trailer behind. Never worried or a second. If your on glare ice though, it's hard to beat a true winter rated tire. But then you gotta swap constantly every 2 seasons because anything above a certain temp you are just ruining the compound.
  10. Never ordered from these guys. But I find in general if you get them shipped USPS you will not get any brokerage fees. But if you ship ups or fedex or puralator you will get brokerage. Biggest downfall with USPS is it usually takes a little longer.
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