The numbers you get from a compression test will vary somewhat depending on the altitude at your location. In theory, a perfect test result is the compression ratio times the atmospheric pressure. So for a 10.25 cr and an atmospheric pressure of 14.7 psi, a perfect test would be 150 psi. Mostly what you should be looking for is a very small variance from cylinder to cylinder. A total variance under 10% is usually considered good. You didn't mention the individual cylinder number, but if the low was 135 and the high was 145, it seems ok to me. From your description of the issues, it seems you may be running rich. I'd be looking at the O2 sensors and maybe the MAF and IAC valve.
I wish I could wait, but needs a car soon. He will be attending a soccer camp later this summer and then he will need to get himself to school this fall. After soccer he will also be getting a part time job. It's high time he start learning about real life. I may have actually found a decent vehicle at a not ridiculous price. Going to see it tomorrow.
I've been looking for a used vehicle for my son who just got his license. It seems all inventory is low and prices are getting stupid. More and more dealers are also refusing to budge on the advertised prices as well. On the other hand, it's probably a great time to sell a used car if you need to get rid of one or trade up.
I can't really say what standard practice may or may not be, but if their running the engine caused additional damage, they should fix it. Have you had any conversations with them about getting a new bottom end? Obviously, it was damaged when it came in and you should expect to pay for those repairs, but they should take care of the additional damage. Might be a blessing in disguise, you should end up with a totally new engine in the end. You could even use this opportunity to do the AFM delete cam and lifters while your at it.
Exactly, get an 01 or newer to work well. The older ones had an odd connection flange at the crank for the flex plate as well. You will likely need to use you old flex plate with the 6.0, so no need to get the 6.0 flex plate with the engine. You may also want to use your existing intake manifold and fuel rails and injectors unless you think you have a problem with them. Just makes sure all the connections are in the right place. Also, most 6.0's came in trucks with hydro boost brakes, so the manifolds don't have the vacuum connection for the brake booster.
I haven't had the wheel off if my 2000, but I know some vehicles have a "keyed" spline on the shaft so the wheel can only go on one way. If the wheel is exactly 180 out, the shaft seemed like the most likely culprit. Good info from davester, I didn't know the clock springs were limits in travel. Being an 03, it shouldn't have a position sensor.
My guess is the issue is at the steering shaft connection to the steering box or column stub shaft. I believe the shaft is a double D cross section. You should be able to disconnect it, rotate the shaft 180 and reconnect. No new alignment needed. Someone probably either replaced the steering box or shaft and put it back together wrong. I'm surprised the alignment shop would not be able to check be fix this. It is very odd, so maybe they just didn't give it any thought.
I live outside Denver as well. You will definitely notice the difference. It's most noticable right off the line. Cruising speeds and even highway passing are not nearly as noticable. When I had mine down in Galveston last year, it wanted to spin the tires off the line all the time, up here, not so much.
Yep, hit up crutchfield. Except for the labor, they should be able to get you everything needed.
You should be able to build a 383 from a 5.3 block. I believe Scat sells the rotating assembly. The only thing you need to check is have you machinist make sure your block can handle the overbore. The Scat site has the required bore specs. If I recall, it was basically the same bore as the stock 5.7 LS1. I have a 5.3 on a stand in the garage I've been wanting to do this to.
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