Mike GMC

It's supposed to be a driver's side part?

Does the bounce happen without the trailer as well, or just an empty trailer?

Yep, quality is key. Cheap is not your friend.

I have a little experience with slip on spacers as well as thicker bolt on spacers with studs. I ran several different sizes and styles of slip on spacers on my Camaro. I had some cheap cast spacers for a while. They suck. They do not hold torque well at all. The billet machined spacers are much better and are more stable. Just make sure you still have enough thread engagement, minimum is 1.5 x stud diameter. If you are short of this, ARP makes some nice longer studs. Same goes for the bolt on spacers, billet machined are way better than cast. Make sure they have quality studs and nuts. "Flame suit on". I have found zero difference in performance between hub and lug centric spacers. Not in drivability, steering shake, perceived wheel shake or bearing life. The way I see it, the lugs MUST help center the wheel anyway with tapered (acorn) lug nuts other wise tightening them down would try to split the wheel if one or more were off center. I think hub centric is nothing more than an assembly aid to help the lugs center up on the assembly line to speed things up. "Flame suit off". Just my opinion.

I agree about the donors, no work saved plus you're still installing old parts. At $100 per side I would probably just get all new stuff, but much more is probably too much for me. I'm surprised Eibach doesn't off a complete unit preassembled as an option, maybe it's because you have choices in how to set the snap ring. The fox 2.0 units are interesting, but they are way more money.

It seems there aren't very many parts reused from the existing coil over assembly. Is it worth pulling the factory assembly apart to salvage them, or would it be better to just buy a few more new parts and assemble the new coil overs prior to installation? Anybody price out the extra parts? This way you just pull the old assembly and pop in the new one.

Don't use the gmt800 master. My 2000 feels exactly like you describe, mushy low and only marginal braking power. I may be looking at a wilwood master and booster in the future.

I guess every @ss has it's own opinion, but I like my seats and my brakes for that matter. Of course I'm comparing to my 2000 Sierra.

I wonder if a 4" diff drop setup with a 2" or 2.5" coilover spacer would work or if it would just make a mess of things? That way you get the small lift with out loosing down travel. Plus, you could always increase the spacer later if you wanted more lift.

I've been researching many of the same things you are. My conclusions so far are that a level is a cheap band-aid approach to fit bigger tires. A real lift is the only proper way to do it, particularly if you intend to use the truck off road. If you are interested in looks and tire size only, a level can do that. But the real costs are hidden in premature wear of ball joints, CV joints and even the steering rack.

Cycle the key to ON without starting and listen for the pump to run. It will only run for a few seconds without the engine running.

Yes, there is an oil pressure lockout for the fuel pump. If there is no pressure, the pump won't run. Also, the sensor is right next to the can position sensor, you didn't accidentally disconnect get did you?

Yep, diffs and t-case are easy, I also use Amsoil products in everything.

They are not that good and if you plan to make the truck last as long as possible, you will not try to run them that long. I can't tell you what the "right" interval is, but I can tell you I have already changed all the fluids in mine and it only has 39k on it. The t-case fluid looked particularly nasty. The diffs weren't too bad, but looked like they were ready. The coolant was definitely ready. The trans fluid is still clean looking and slightly sweet smelling so it has not been changed yet. Go figure.

I don't know how odd that size is. I was thinking of that size as well. It gives just a bit more tire size without needing a level. I agree though that not many would pull off usable tires to change to this size. I will be waiting until my oe tires are worn out. The 285/65 option does sound interesting as well, but I would think the 265 width might be better in rain and slushy snow.