Yondu

BUMP!

Yes, I didn't do any wiring extension. This was at a factory fuel disconnect location. By using the shorter connector setup I was able to keep it all tucked up pretty good.

I used this on my 2018 Silverado I traded in a year or so ago. You will still need credits and such from BBP $120 shipped Oem e85 sensor with female/female quick connect adapter. This adapter makes it so you can unplug your fuel line and put this inline. I did it by my tank. It's shorter and fewer connections over the more common method of buying a bunch of pieces. $80 shipped (both, won't separate) $180 shipped for everything.

Interested and in MN, but my truck is blue. How bad do you want it gone?

Sounds like you want to use the load stop as a fail safe, as in flying cargo would be stopped by it? If you are allowing the cargo to fly into it, I can't imagine it will last even if it does latch up.

So I have an absolutely terrible memory and didn't realize you were the one I was talking to before about this and I didn't scroll up to see old posts. I was happy with the ride with the suspension and the Cooper tires, I just got tired of the average gas mileage, "tough" look and the Coopers on the Method wheels were never completely smooth. I have pretty bad OCD for smoothness and ride, if it's not obvious. I had them road force balanced 2x and the last time all the numbers were good but one only got down to 24lbs IIRC. I should have pushed for them to try harder or replace it as I bought the wheels and tires there, but I figured I'd give it a shot. 99% of people would drive my truck on the Coopers and not notice any issues. I decided to go back to stock wheels and tires and the ride from doing that alone is significantly better and smoother. It's like riding on a stick of butter it's so smooth and comfortable. When I replace these Goodyear Fortitude HT's it will be with the 275/65r18 version of the same tire. All terrain tires excel off road and you pay for it on road. I expect my mileage will shoot back up to 25-26 again (highway, 5.3 4wd crew). My opinion isn't what's popular here and I started out wanting Duratracs and a 1" lift. It certainly looked cool and I won't knock anyone here for doing it but it's all a compromise and anyone who says otherwise is blowing smoke or unaware.

I just swapped my cooper at3 4s 285/70r17 tires (standard load) for my stock wheels with 265/65r18s and it rides sooo nice, a improvement over the off-road tired. I'm planning on putting on 275/65r18 tires of the same design but with white letters. Aggressive tires aren't for me. Expensive lesson.

Lucas, the Tahoe springs ended up dropping the front about 5/8", maybe 11/16. Given that you would definitely want a 1" lower strut spacer. I have had no issues. Can't say how much the springs helped as I did it at the same time as the koni shocks. I'd also recommend the sulastic rear springs too, as they helped a bit. Finally, what size and type of tire are you running?

Thanks Grumpy. Once a tinkerer always a tinkerer. I can't help myself, always messing with something. I've been driving it a lot this week due to having some extra time off and I'm really happy how it turned out. As a package, it all works together nicely.

When I was looking at CST I talked to a rep there and he was telling me about the adjustable reservoir version that wasn't on their site, but it was a while ago so perhaps they're not double adjustable, I thought I remembered that though. As a final update- When I first put sulastic springs on the back I felt it made the rear a little bit softer than the front, so the front was the more harsh part of the truck. After the softer front springs and Koni front struts l, I determined it does ride nicer and again, I feel the rear is a bit harsher again. As a reminder, at this point I still have Bilsteins out back. After a week or so of this, I decided to put the rear Koni shocks in. The truck rides even better yet. It finally rides like it should, how I remember previous Chevy trucks when they were new. Comfortable, good balance of soft and complacent. Firmer than something like a minivan or crossover for sure, but not harsh. I no longer notice even the tiniest of pavement marks, cracks are felt but not really noticeable or distracting. Summary of modifications- Front - -4wd Tahoe front springs. Ended up lowering the front 5/8". My truck never say really really low up front like I see some trucks though (seems like more often double cabs) -1" lower strut spacer, so the front sits about 3/8" higher than stock. -Koni front struts. Rear -Sulastic shackles. - these essentially give the rear leafs a 3rd stage. They make the rear springs softer until they reach the limiter then they have no real effect on ride quality. I have firmer than normal ones but since they replace a solid shackle, they do make the rear springs softer and better isolated. -Rear Koni shocks. These mods may not be for everyone and It's about $875 (I spent a lot more doing my trial and error) but I paid too much for this truck to not like the ride. Since I live in the north we have a temp swing of over 150 degrees summer to winter and the roads get rough. If I lived in the south, where I noticed roads are usually smoother maybe I'd like the Bilsteins. I don't care for the 5100s myself, but if you like a firm ride they're probably a better way to go.

I understand what you're writing here, but that's just a whole lot of math. I will add my 1" front leveling spacer is closer to 5/8 thick, so if it is 1" it's not a 2:1 ratio. Another random factoid is CST makes double adjustable coilovers for our trucks that use 650lb springs for the crew cab 4wd, 600 for the 2wd. I believe you have a regular cab 2wd v6? I assume my truck would be quite a bit heavier. Most coilovers for our truck are 700lb. I'm hoping my springs are 650-675 now but I'm not smart enough to figure it out. Free standing height and coil length appeared to be identical to the stock spring I pulled off.

Hey guys, an update. My truck is a 2018 z71 crew cab LT. 5'8 box. The front coils have a diameter of 20.22mm and the Tahoe coils are 19.17mm. If someone had a loaded up crew 6'5 box truck, you'd probably want the the suburban 4wd springs if you were looking for something softer. I swapped my bilstein 1.25" front lift for the Konis with a 1" lower strut spacer. I knew going into this it would lower the truck more than that .25" and I am good with that. I just don't want a level /small lift anymore. After installing the front setup and taking out my rear 2" block for the stock 1.25" block the front dropped 3/4" to 7/8", which means 1/2 to 5/8" drop from the spring itself. That was the measurement I got tonight and I've put about 15 miles on the truck. In my experience coils don't really settle after the first few days, but I guess I'll find out. Right now the front of my truck is 3/8" to 1/2" higher in the front, which is where I want to be. I hesitate to mention ride quality changes because I just haven't driven much. I have a work vehicle and with Covid....well my 26 month old truck has 9950 miles, so that shows you how much I drive it! It is softer in the front of course and I still have the Bilsteins in the back. Partially because I want to evaluate this setup first, partially because I ran out of time. I do have the Koni rear shocks and will most likely install them. I will update some more hopefully next week when I have some more miles on it.

I used to have that setup. 1.2" lift with bilsteins, 275/60r20 on 20x9 +24 and no rub. Offset is far more of the issue. If you're on +0 with a 33, it will most likely have rubbing.

I'm sorry that happened to you man. I haven't seen rust on any K2xx trucks that wasn't related to an unfixed fender bender or similar. I'm hoping they hold up better than that GMT900 trucks. Just typical frame rust.

Hey guys, just a small update. Still waiting on the front struts, but I got everything else. I haven't taken anything off my truck yet, but comparing the new front springs to the existing ones and it appears the coil is the same length (longer / more coils would mean softer) as the coil starts and stops in the same spot. Could be a different free standing height, but I doubt it. My truck also has almost less than 10k miles on it, so I don't think they will have sagged much and I'll compare when I take them off. What I did notice is my stock spring coil has a diameter of 20mm, the Tahoe coil is 19mm. This is an area of 314.16 vs 283.56mm, which is approx 10% less. What that means (I believe, correct me if I'm wrong) is that IF the stock spring is 750lbs, this should be 677lbs.

I decided to go for it. Ordered the Tahoe 4wd springs specified above, Koni front and rear dampers and a 1" Motofab lower strut spacer. My thought is the Tahoe springs will lower the truck maybe 3/8"-1/2" over stock, so this will give me a very slight front lift. Currently I have Bilstein 5100's at 1.2" lift, rear 2" block (over 1.25" stock block). So I'm hoping to go from a 1.2 / .75" lift to a .5" front lift. Doing this for ride quality. It will be next week when everything arrives and I won't be able to get to it Thankgiving weekend, but I hope the weekend after. Having a young lad at 18 months, working full time and going to school keeps me busy.

I'll keep it in mind. The tire I'm looking at from Michelin is actually the Primacy XC, which is OEM on the F150. 275/65r18. Discount has them for $175 each and with Black Friday I'd be able to get them all for $550 plus install/tax. They have a lower mileage rating than the defender so I think they'll be a little softer. I buy a lot of tires from Discount Tire and I think I'll just tell them I need them all to be road force balanced to 15 or less. I had the Cooper AT3 4s in 275/60r20 and they were perfectly smooth, just wanted a bigger tire/smaller wheel and so I went with the same tire in 285/70r17. They just aren't as smooth, but they're not on OEM wheels. The wheels are lug centric Methods and I think that's why they're only 97% smooth after about 65mph. I think I'll go with either the Primacy XC or the Terraincontact HT, depending if I can find a Black Friday sale. After that's done and I sell my Method wheels I look the suspension.

Lucas287 isn't the only internet sleuth here. Using car-part.com I found a wrecked 2015 Tahoe LT, confirmed 4x4. In the pics, was the RPO tag. Zw7 - Premium smooth ride suspension Then head over to Rockauto.com and look up coil spings for a 2015 Tahoe and you'll see about 20 choices, but this one has the same 7ZH and 6ZH code as the RPO sticker of the Tahoe above. $61 a spring. GM GENUINE 22845791 Info FitsFront Right; Suspension Code (7B4), Suspension Code (7CP), Suspension Code (7PF), Suspension Code (7RS), Suspension Code (7RW), Suspension Code (7WS), Suspension Code (7ZH), Suspension Code (7YU) orFront Left; Suspension Code (6B4), Suspension Code (6CP), Suspension Code (6PF), Suspension Code (6RS), Suspension Code (6RW), Suspension Code (6WS), Suspension Code (6ZH), Suspension Code (6YU) 2 Day Delay

Thanks for the detailed response. If we could find the right spring that comes on the Suburban 2wd or Tahoe 4wd that would be a cheap option...my brother had one too, but sold it a few months ago. Would have been easy to find out. I'm disappointed to hear about the Michelins, I've always heard the opposite but not used them myself. Can you tell me what size yours were? LT load range? My biggest draw I was told they were super smooth. I don't off-road my truck and don't want aggressive tires anymore. I need road tires that work well in MN winters.

Thank you.

Anything come of this? This is some really good info. I've also considered using lighter front springs, like a 2wd Silverado springs or something. Even when my truck (2018 z71, crew / short box) was new it didn't have as much rake as some of the Silverado's I see on the road making me think mine has firmer springs. Currently I have Bilstein 5100's at the 1.2" front lift, Sulastic rear shackles and Cooper at3 285/70r17 (P metric). I'm going to ditch my At3's for some Michelin 275/65r18's on my oem z71 wheels and then look at replacing my front suspension if needed. To add, you can get a lower strut spacer for 1/2" or 1" of lift so even if you lost a tad bit of height that spacer would put you back where you need to be.

I removed my gold rear bowtie to install a black bowtie a few years ago, but just decided to leave the bowtie off. I've gotten tired of that look and want to put my black bowtie on now but am not sure on the exact placement. I seem to remember there was a template you could print out and tape on the the tailgate around the rear handle to make sure it's straight and spaced correctly. Does anyone have that? Or info on how far down from the handle it goes?

The truck the bro's drive. The guys that have popped collars, call their buds bro. They usually wear Oakley sunglasses, love Affliction. There trucks are lifted, 22 or 24's with mud tires and really low offset. You might find them with multi color headlights and highly customized trucks that in their attempt to make them look tough made them quiet fragile. Look under the truck for 10" lift blocks too. More often than not the truck is white for some reason...clean I think? They love black wheels with machined accent, or all chrome. There will typically be a visor or a unworn ballcap of some sort hanging from the rear view too.

I haven't had a chance to install it as I just got it last week, but I bought this https://dsxtuning.com/collections/fittings/products/gm-fuel-line-push-connect-coupler Sounds like the same idea, but this is one piece vs 3 pieces. Less connections for leaking and a shorter overall piece for less strain on the lines. Either will work, but I think this is a nice option. It costs a couple bucks more though.

Depends how much change you want. LT tires ride rough. List the type of tire and tell us the air pressure. Also look at what kind of leveling kit. Don't but a bunch of stuff quite yet.