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Yondu

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Everything posted by Yondu

  1. I installed Sulastic shackles a few months ago. I got what I thought was a good deal on eBay for almost new shackles. Installed, the driver's side is basically maxed out (5 3/4" bolt to bolt) and the passengers side is about 3/4 maxed out (5 1/4" bolt to bolt). 1/2 would be where you want them. This of course lowered the rear of my truck about 1/2" or so. It appears they're too light for my crew cab standard bed 4wd truck. The box says 151-409 on them which I'm told is their weight rating. I've contacted Sulastic but it sounds like the next step up is the HD version which is probably too firm for my truck. Anyone who has them able to comment on where there's sit and what the weight rating is? The person who emailed me wasn't too informative.
  2. Tips are a very personal preference thing. I don't like double wall tips at all and can't stand a rolled tip. Just a slash cut stainless tip is, in my opinion, perfect. I got this last year and it works great. Just slid it over stock, it's the correct size for a 5.3's 2.75" tailpipe. I had to tap it on with a rubber mallet as it was a very tight fit. Love the look of it. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gib-500372?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv-jmsriN7AIVgo5bCh2NBAH1EAQYASABEgKmEfD_BwE
  3. As long as you can come in and tell everyone everything you have is the bestest cause you're the bestest with no disagreements you're chipper. If not, they're cockroaches. Irony much?
  4. It's like you either didn't read what I said or you are chosing to ignore and explain things I already explained. Then you go on to explain things that were never even brought up because you assume I didn't already know them, like you explaining them is proof that it's new to me. Exhausting.
  5. I wish my truck had the 6.2, but I didn't want the "options" that getting a 6.2 required for free, let alone the upcharge. You're kinda "that guy" though. Everything I have is the best and that's why I have it kind of guy. Non stop CST is the undisputed king of lifts because I have CST. 6.2 is better than everything because I have a 6.2. When researching lifts your posts kept coming up... My suspension guy said CST is the best so nothing else compares. It gets old and trivial. It's hard to believe any of your posts are unbiased 5.3 will get better mileage, there is no argument there on stock trucks. Now modded with big tires, yeah, I bet the 6.2 handles them better. Doesn't lug as easy and will stay in 4 cylinder mode easier. Especially since you're probably running 91+ octane, it will have less kr if any with big tires on a stock truck.
  6. So armed with a bruised ego and Google you tried to show me up. Yawn. Funny how you are now an expert. Your original post is still false. It can't anticipate knock, the knock sensor picks up vibration after it happens. No ifs ands or buts. I have tuned about a dozen vehicles, I've owned Hptuners for more than a decade. But I'm sure you're the guy that's done more and seen more than ..... (Insert anybody). Lots of those guys in the internet. I wouldn't let you with a keyboard or wrench anywhere near my vehicles and hope no one else does.
  7. I have a tuned 5.3 and I don't have to give it much gas to go, btw. That's the tune changing the throttle rate as well as timing to make it more responsive. A tuned 4.3 can easily be more responsive than a 6.2. Flat foot it and the 6.2 has more getup, but with LT 33-34" tires a stock 6.2 truck would have it's hands full with a tuned 5.3 on stock 18" wheels.
  8. Oh my god no. For one, it's not a microphone it's a piezocrystal. They can't measure relative combustion volume. They pick up vibration and turn it to electric current. This is then filtered to what is determined to be pre ignition / pre detonation. They are REactive to knock that's already occured. Please don't ever tune anyone else's vehicles.
  9. I can only go off what I've read. There is more than one person / company saying due to the design of the stamped arms they are not safe to be used at the 1.8-2.5" lift. The ball joint can separate. In my opinion, unless they're wrong, that makes them required above 1.5.
  10. That's debatable and also depends on what UCA you have. My front is up 1.25 and I'm ok with the angles but had I gone 1.8 I would prefer UCAs on my 18 with stamped steel units.
  11. You speak the truth, there is more to it than just tire thickness. It's why I avoid LT tires on a 1/2 ton. A good P tire far exceeds what my truck can carry and I don't drive in areas I need the puncture resistance if an LT.
  12. Don't get so defensive, it wasn't meant as a personal attack. It's my opinion big wheels look bad on a truck, sounds like it's yours that big tires look bad on a truck. If you lowered your truck and put it on 22s and use it for work you're in the .1%. Most trucks with 22s are bro'd out with a level kit and mud tire super swampers. Not a scratch in the bed either as the owner doesn't use it. I bet you're in one of those warm states too, if you lived where the temp has 150 degree of fluctuation you're roads would be pretty bad and you may rethink those 22s. The roads I drive don't play well with that setup.
  13. I certainly can. Lowered truck on 22s, big no for me. Smaller wheels need a more aggressive tire to look better though. Not necessarily a MT, just not a small diameter narrow highway tire. Like I said from the very beginning ALL THINGS BEING EQUAL besides wheel diameter the small wheels ride better and offer better mpg/acceleration. My opinion is they look better too. If you go from an 18" LT to a 20" p rated tire, that's not a relevant comparison. I'm no engineer but I do know rubber has more flex than aluminum.
  14. Dude, you're the one back tracking. You went from a hard sidewall LT 20" tire to a soft sidewall low load range 22. Why can't you just admit it when you're wrong? LT tires always ride firmer. The fact it didn't is because you had more rubber, proving my point that rubber is more flexible than aluminum and you will have a better / softer ride by having more rubber everything else being the same. I'm done, we have both proven my point.
  15. Simple? Took the words right out of my mouth. Let's look a little deeper so you're not so simple. Your 295/55/20 is an LT tire with a load rating of 123. 33x12.5r22 has a load range of 114. It's rated to carry 815 fewer lbs. Tell me more. Or tell me if you don't understand why they ride similar. My 20s were 115 load, my 17s are 117. LOL Grasp it yet?
  16. That's unfortunate you can't notice the difference but you're clearly not very savy with ride quality. If you think 22s ride the same as 18s....yikes
  17. You've had various trucks with various wheel comparisons. Hardly relevant. Two trucks, even the same model can ride differently. Two tires by different brands will ride drastically differently. Ever swap from new 20" tires to new 22" tires on the same truck using the exact same tire model? If not then your experiences are not as relevant. My 20s were less than a year old and I used the exact same model for both so I know for a fact you're wrong. By your own admission you didn't do as thorough of a comparison. ASSume away.
  18. Slower acceleration, worse mpg, worse ride...all for a wheel that I looks goofy and screams I don't use my truck as a truck. Save the big wheels for SUVs.
  19. The look is preference as I disagree strongly, but I'm ok with 20s on a bigger/ newer half ton. The ride difference however is noticeable. You ASSume it's extremely minimal, I swapped out Cooper AT3 4s 275/60/r20 (33)tires for Cooper AT3 4s 285/70r17s (32.65) and felt the result justified the cost, it no longer rides harsh. Percentage wise comparing rubber, the difference between 22 and 20 would be almost the same. If you live somewhere with less than perfect roads like I do, it is noticeably better.
  20. I swapped from 20s to 17s with the same brand/model tire and got a slightly but noticeable better ride. I would never do 22s on a pickup, but the roads here I'm MN are harsher than what you'd find in the southern states due to the winters.
  21. All I can add is my 275/60r20 did not run in 20x9 +24 offset, but there wasn't much room. I lifted the front 1.4", 1.85" lift will not have more clearance either. They will definitely rub with 1" spacers as now I have 285/70r17 tires on 17x8.5 wheels, 0 offset and even though they're shorter (32.7 vs 33) they rubbed my mud flaps slightly until I trimmed them. No mud flaps would give me about .25" more clearance but I'm not going to run 0 offset wheels without them and throw rocks at my doors all day.
  22. I hope it's more than a Trailboss with upgraded shocks and slightly bigger tires. If not, it better be $2995 or less as an option on trailbosses.
  23. You can get the 6.2 on them now, in 2020. With a intake / exhaust package if you want.
  24. It's also possible your trucks original springs are firmer than typical 1500 GM trucks, so maybe they are softer. I have a Z71 which has a firmer ride than regular but I don't believe as firm as a NHT truck. I know your front sway bar is thicker too. I just switched from a 275/60r20 to a 285/70r17. It's supposed to be 32.8", but it's more like 32.3 and my 275/60r20 was about 32.8. With 2.5" more rubber (same model tire) it got ride of the harshness I had. I was hoping for more change and at first it seemed very slight. After putting a couple hundred miles on it, I'm good with the ride for now. I went from a harsh riding truck to a firm riding truck. If positive reviews keep coming in on the 6112, especially in comparison to the 5100s I may consider them next year. I just wish Bilstein went with a softer spring than 750lbs.
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