Jump to content

Yondu

Member
  • Posts

    406
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Yondu

  1. Mine is the same way. I can't imagine it's any different stock, but I never checked.
  2. They are 60mm struts though. By far the cheapest option for what you're getting.
  3. When I pressed for more information he said should be within the next few months, keep checking our site. I'm not sure what the difference is between the Tahoe Yukon and Silverado Sierra are. It's very interesting they would release the SUV parts first as I would think there's more of a demand for the trucks.
  4. The reality is they're pushing people to Ford and Ram.
  5. My tires wore perfect before the 5100s. yeah post it up. It be cool to see... So I'm with the crowd who say get an alignment. Even if it ends up not needing it at least the notion possibly saved someone what at least $450 in front tires. Hey I like helping others by not making the same mistakes. Obviously you should get it checked, I did. That's how I know it was fine. Removing the front strut assembly and reinstalling it will not change anything on these trucks that will require an alignment. This is not my opinion. But if you change the height of the truck then it could need some tweaking as it's IRS and the camber will change based on ride height. Like I said. Changing the height will change the geometry. And also like I said, my truck didn't need an alignment but your mileage may vary.
  6. Shall i show you my brand new ko2s when my truck gets out the shop? Wasn't just saying that because everyone else is... Shall I show you the printout of my alignment from when I brought the truck in after installing the 5100s showing the truck was spot on? Your truck needed an alignment, mine didn't.
  7. They have been coming soon for 5 years. We have had a part number for like 6 months, IIRC. I called Bilstein a few days ago and they said very soon. Minds will be blown if/when they actually come out
  8. Removing and reinstalling the front struts on these trucks will not change anything that would require an alignment, but the fact your front is higher will change the geometry. With that said, I went up 1.25" and the alignment shop said everything was within spec and no alignment needed. Your mileage may vary
  9. I saw threads from 2014 stating they should be out soon. ? They have recently released on the gmt900s and 15+ Tahoes though.
  10. Bilstein is saying"very very soon" on the 6112s. He said the next couple months. Take that for what it's worth!
  11. I agree. The Bilsteins helped and so did a few hundred pounds. Does your Sierra have the Z71 package? Bed liner or mat?
  12. I've noticedy truck does this, I'll be bringing it in for this soon.
  13. I understand what the point of a bump stop is. I also understand that by the truck resting on it, it will make the truck ride stiffer, that's why I brought it up. The Bilstein struts have a different stroke length to deal with their adjustable height settings which would make would make it much more difficult to bottom out, especially on the top setting vs the bottom. Think of the front suspension as a system not one individual piece.
  14. The point was, the aren't being used as a stopper, it's already sitting on them.
  15. That's the one. The truck is testing on them though, so it's less of a bump stop. I've cut them on cars when lowering them because if you don't, the car will ride terribly.
  16. I had considered removing them to cut the bumpstops back some, so there is a gap. In the past I did this when I lowered a car. I ended up throwing weight in the bed (started with 240lbs, I think - terrible memory) and my highway bounce got significantly better and the ride was a lot nicer. This told me the front wasn't the issue, so I kind of forgot about the front struts and their bump stops. I'm not sure if I have the energy to disassemble everything to see if it ride any better after taking an inch or so out of the stops. Unless of course you tell me how great it rides after...hahaha
  17. I did on a 18 Silverado, same process. I feel like both took 4 hours. I found it easiest to use my jack to compress the strut setup as I installed it after I loosely bolted in the top. Jack stands under the truck. That and a pry bar and it wasn't too bad. To compress the existing spring to fit it on I used 3 spring compressors, usually you use 2 but I had to really compress it and the 3 compressor seemed a lot safer.
  18. HD trucks use front shocks like the pre 2007 trucks. Those trucks are really fast the front shocks are very similar to the rear shocks and how easy they are to install. I could see a shop charging 2 hours her front strut, but I don't know what the book time is. Rear shock would probably be half hour.
  19. While I did mine myself, I'd have paid $190 for the fronts to be installed, if you trust them. It's hard finding a good competant shop.
  20. Rears are 2 bolts each and take 20 minutes...maybe you can save some doing those? Fronts took me a few hours and when I brought it in for an alignment they said it was still within spec. (1.25 lift up front, 2" block on back instead of stock 1.25)
  21. Since you don't have stamped steel UCAs you can go on the top setting if you want. There will be slightly more balljoint wear. On my 2018 I went with the 1.25" setting and have read it's as high as I should go on stock UCAs. Meaty tires will crush your MPGs. I lost around 3-3.5 with Duratracs. I have a less agressive AT3 4s now and am hoping it's only 1-1.5mpg loss but I won't know for a little while.
  22. I'd guess that's at least a 4" lift.
  23. One hell of a 1/4" impact driver!! I used a 1/2" impact wrench and it was having a tough time removing my stock ones. It takes the lug nuts off with less issue. I've heard a lot of people say their stock ones were loose, my truck is only a few months old so perhaps they fixed that issue.
  24. My lift block u bolts had a different thread pitch than oem, much finer - given that I don't think the oem torque spec applies. I know they were extremely tight stock on my 18, my cordless impact had a tough time taking them off. When I put them on I think I went 100 or 120. My memory fails me at the moment.
  25. My tank Suze is acceptable if I'm not towing, but it's not great. If you plan to tow, you need at least 32 gallons. GM decision makers love shooting themselves in the foot for the most trivial shit.
×
×
  • Create New...