Just pulled my 18 camaro SS 1LE (3650) in my new 24ft enclosed trailer (4300lbs) about 120 miles each way to the race track yesterday in my 21 Elevation 5.3 10spd. Tried to stay between 65-70mph on the 70mph highways and mostly in the right lane (10.3mpg). Occasionally I'd have to pass a truck that was just running too slow but the key is, don't be in a hurry (still learning that). Trans maybe hit 175F in 75 degree ambient temps. Truck pulls it pretty damn well, truck is rated for 9300lbs. Oh FYI, I use a Blue Ox weight distribution hitch. Definetely need one of those pulling this trailer.
I don't recall the exact update but I do know it came out in late Sept 2021.
I had issues that sound very much like yours but without the drivability issues back from 2/21 till almost 11/21. They finally fixed it with an updated tune but it took a long time to get to that point. But the drivability issues you're mentioning are definetely something different. May be a lifter intermittently going out but everytime I read of someone with that it's a permanent issue, not sporadic.
Oh and spend the money on treating the doors. The mid bass in my truck is amazing with the sound skins treatment and roadkill surrounds. It's probably the most impressive thing about the truck, but the AF tweets are damn good too.
I ran the sub off channel 5&6 because I thought it was ample power for the sub and I didn't want to waste the quality AC channels on a set of rear fill speakers. I was wrong, the AC bridged channels were decent but lacking a bit of power for my sub considering the active stage in front. So I pulled the Infiniti amp and replaced it with a pioneer mono block 800 watt amp. Now my sub has plenty of power and the rear fill resides on the AC channels 5&6. Also ended up buying AF tweets and replaced the Hertz tweets on the dash. They were just a bit bright and didn't care for them, the AF's are damn impressive. The AC DSP amps are good but the software is buggy and the tuning aspect of the software is not very friendly. If I was starting over I probably would've went a different route but it was too late in the game to change. As for accubass, it works but with a remote bass knob you'll find that it's not needed. I set my amp to turn on the bass level to a reasonable level, actually a bit low. Then when I get in my truck and drive if Im not in a jamming mode I don't find myself having to mess with the knob. If I want to rock some tunes, then I dial it in on each song. Works well. So I've switched accubass off. As for a good signal, you'll be fine. The stock head unit isn't too bad. Basically I don't exceed 3/4 volume and everything sounds clean. I could see some clipping after 3/4.
If you want a cheaper unit than the LX above I use this one in my camaro for telemetry on my go pro. And so far this one hasn't caused any CEL's like the OBDLINK MX unit I used to use. http://BAFX Products Android Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner & Fault Code Reader Diagnostic Scan Tool for Cars & Trucks – for All OBD2 Protocols on All Consumer Vehicles 1996 & Newer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_YTE8DD91JNWT709TXRZK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have the same gator low profile and when I installed it I did set it a bit low and so I have to pull the gate down when opening and shut it with a bit of force. But it's not the covers fault, I just wanted it to sit as low as possible. My Dad has the same truck and cover, just finished it and installed it the right way and his opens with the keyfob no issues. It's all in how you install it. Nice cover for just over $200.
I just finished my install tonight. Audio control D6 1200, Hertz mpk 6 1/2 components, Hertz Cento 6 1/2 for rear fill, Image Dynamics idq 12 for a sub in a sealed box from subthump. I'm using the D6 to run the mpk tweeters active, mpk components in the front doors and channel 5&6 bridged going to thq idq12. The Cento rear doors are running off a small Infinity amp. As far as an update for you I can tell you that the front door signal is not full range in the Bose system. With the D6 I'm able to sum the Tweeter and the door signals from the Bose amp and make a full range signal from them combined. It does seem that L series amp has channel summing so you'll just have to set that up and you'll be set. I do believe you might want some sort of DSP down the road since the factory head unit signal is not flat.
Also, I have to say the stereo doesn't sound nearly as bad now that the Audiocontrol is running the show. I flattened out the bose peaks with the auto tune feature of the dsp, it's now much more bearable. Can't wait to get these new speakers installed.
I'm sorry, I have to disagree. I just setup my audiocontrol D6. 1200 amp and using the input RTA in the DSP software shows that the door speakers are not full range. I had to "sum" the front door and dash bose signal in order to get a full input signal to work with in my amp. Currently I'm running the stock door and dash speakers with my 12" subthump box under the rear seat. Next weekend I should be able to treat the doors and get those speakers installed. I'm going with Hertz mid bass in the doors and tweets in the factory dash location. Coaxs in the rear doors.
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