06pirate

My truck is 2006 Sierra SLT 1500 and it did what sounds like the same thing a few years go. It was the oil pump in the transfer case that had failed. The pump rotor had eaten through the side of the case, dumped all the oil, so no oil pressure. That caused it to slam into 4low. I was only 1.5 miles from home, so I limped it home, and then had it towed to the local dealer. The oil was a sludgy goo filled with metal particles. The transfer case was so worn out and torn up inside it was not saveable, had to get a whole new assembly. I don't know if these model years use the same transfer case, but that's a possibility. I've read about the oil pumps in these eating into the case, apparently it's fairly common. Search GMC / CHEVY 2003 - 2006 4wd truck transfer case oil pump problems Some possible info, may or may not apply to your vehicle: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/gmc-transfer-case-pump-rub-fix.228633/ https://www.merchant-automotive.com/Transfer-Case-Pump-Upgrade-Kit

I just got around to replacing the bottom seat cover, padding and heater element on the driver's side of my 2006 GMC Sierra K1500 SLT EX- cab. It's the electric adjustable, heated, leather seats.The fit and color are perfect. It took three days to get here from Texas, and about three hours to do the swap-out. I only removed the bottom of the seat, it was a pretty simple process. I just wanted to give a GREAT PRODUCT recommendation for their stuff. They also have good "installation tips" videos on their website, and pleasant people to deal with.

So almost all of switch lights are now inop. The instrument cluster is OK, but the switch lights in the instrument panel and steering wheel are kaput, and the switches themselves are scratched and mostly unreadable. I need to rehab this stuff, and realize that most of the replacement parts are going to be of "off-shore" origin. Lots of parts available fairly cheap, so I'm looking for opinions on sources. Any vendors you'd say might be better than the others, or perhaps more to the point, anybody you'd particularly steer clear of? Thanks in advance.

I had AAA tow truck driver open the driver's door on my 2007 Toyota Tacoma in 2 minutes. A 14-year old thief can do it on 1/2 that time.

OK, so this is a 4 1/2 year old thread, but this might help someone else: I have had possibly similar noises in my 2006 4WD Sierra truck. One day I noticed, while driving on the highway at 60 MPH that the truck was in 4WD. I slowed down and shifted it into 2WD, and then noticed the noise. I had a local shop go through it and the first time they didn't find anything, so I had them replace the rear wheel bearings and I replaced the front hubs and the CV joints/shaft myself . None of this made any difference. I had them look at it again, and the noise was maybe a little worse in 4WD than 2WD, but not much. Long story short, it turned out the transfer case output shaft bearing had come apart. It's a ball-bearing type with a cage that supports the balls, keeping them spaced apart. That cage is stamped sheet metal and it had broken in two, and was rubbing inside the bearing races. MOST of the noise has disappeared, but it comes back now and then, so I'm just waiting for something to either seize up or fall off, then I'll know what it WAS.

I've been thinking about something like this also. For simplicity, maybe just put the swith in the pump ground wire, (if there is one). Cut the ground wire, extend it to some hidden location in the cab, put the switch where you want it (hidden). No ground = no circuit = no run. ???

Yes, talked to two shops.....long story short, they buy the covers off the internet, add a certain percentage (which is fair) and charge two or three hours labor to install. One shop even said they get their covers from The Seat Shop. So I'll just do it myself. Thanks for the comments.

Vehicle is a 2006 Sierra SLT X-cab with the dark grey "Rubbermade" interior. The front seats have the leather seating surfaces, everything else is vinyl. Front seats are the buckets with center console between. The driver's seat upholstery and padding are worn out, vinyl side piece on the outboard side is splitting open. The rest of the interioir is like brand new, no one else ever rides in the truck. Since GMC doesn't offer the leather covers anymore, after-market seems to be the only choice. I've looked around the web and checked prices and watched videos, and I'm leaning towards the covers and bottom padding from "The Seat Shop". Prices seem fair, and it looks like it will match existing stuff OK. Does anyone have experience with this vendor or would you care to recommend anyone else? The alternative might be an entire seat from a junk yard, but I just don't have the time or inclination to shop around and dick with that, and still end up with 15-year-old upholstery. I'd rather just install new covers and be done with it, and yes I have the ability to do that. I've reupholstered airplane seats many times. I intend to keep this truck at least another ten years. Yeah, I can hear you laughing, but it could happen. https://www.theseatshop.com/ Thanks for any input.

I haven't visited this forum for a long time, so if this topic has been discussed already, please forgive me. My truck is a 2006 Sierra 1/2 ton, 4x4, X-cab, SLT, 5.3 aluminum engine, with 220,000 miles on it. I am replacing the front wheel bearing hubs (for the second time), and also intend to replace the CV shafts while I have it apart, because it is either the wheel bearings or the CV joints that are making the howl/grinding noise. The problem is that the new CV shafts available from local auto parts stores are physically different and don't want to fit. Careful searching at O'Reilly's by both me and their people gives a shaft with a different outer joint. See pics below. Local GMC dealers don't have any in stock to compare. The replacement shafts I can find have a stamped metal ring pressed onto the outer end of the joint housing, (see yellow circle in picture) and that ring is about 1/8" too large in diameter to fit into the recess in the wheel bearing carrier. I could take a hammer and knock that ring off, but then the taper of that outer joint housing leaves a large gap between the bearing carrier that could allow debris to enter. I'm sure that stamped steel ring is intended as rock deflector or some such. I know the bearing is a sealed unit, so I'm not that concerned about it. I am just concerned mostly that this unit might have other differerences from the original shafts that could cause problems. The original CV joint has a sort of deflector ring area that's part of the outer joint casing, which fits into the bearing carrier recess with about 1/8" clearance. Trying to put the new design unit in makes that stamped steel ring hit the outer diameter of the bearing carrier before the shaft seats into the inner bearing race, which of course won't work. I spoke with the parts manager at a local shop and he didn't have any answers for me, except "order one and see if it fits". But I've already done that, and had to return it. I'd just like to replace the CV shafts at the same time as I am doing the bearing hubs without a lot of dicking around. Pics below, new style CV shaft on top (obviously the clean one), old dirty one on the bottom. The offending metal ring highlighted by yellow circle. Any thoughts or info appreciated.

Thank you CamGTP! That saves me a lot of thinkin'.

The check engine light came on, my OBDII scanner shows Generic Code P0449 "Evaporative Emissions System Vent Control Circuit Intermittent", and the RED "Emission Status" indicator light on the scanner is illuminated. Any thoughts to speed up my troubleshooting would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Can you tow a 70-foot mobile home with your Silverado? Apparently not....................... https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/enthusiasts/chevy-silverado-driver-busted-towing-70-foot-mobile-home-on-rural-missouri-highway/ar-BB19eRts?li=BBnb4R5

Nice.....and I can't find the time to change my oil.

Yeah, this is a "gentleman's truck"....HAHAHA. I have a SnugTop canopy on it, and It will likely never see even 800 pounds in the bed. Now and then I rent a small U-haul 6 x 12 trailer for dragging stuff around. Tires are currently the Toyo Open Country P265/70/17's and serve me well. I'll stick with that spec. Thanks again.

Thanks for taking the time to reply, everyone. I trolled around the web and that seems to be a good recommended tire, and Discount Tire just a few miles from my house has them for about half the price of the Mazamas, $160 vs $289. No way I can pay Les Schwab almost $1,358 after tax, valves, balancing, etc., for a set of rubber.