Well its road/highway driven a lot too so I don't want to ride around that loose. Just looking to improve the ride over factory with an inexpensive upgrade. I know I could do upper control arms but won't be replacing them until the OEM's are shot.
I put on Bilstein 5100s on max height and Toyo Open Country AT2 295/55/20. The tires rub at full lock moving forward which hinders my turning radius, but they do not rub in reverse. Has anyone made any mods to the bar itself or replaced with a different bar altogether to avoid this? I would like to bump up to 295/60/20 next time around, and it would have clearance for everything but it most likely would make the rubbing a tad worse than it is now. Aside from grinding down that section of sway bar.... Is there a kit that would drop it down a hair with new end links and maybe putting a spacer where the bushing brackets are? Maybe dropping down would avoid the rub too. Thanks for help.
I have the Bilstein 5100s set on max height and E ply tires. Also have the hellwig rear sway bar installed. Haven't had any issues with the front bar but was wondering if there are sway bar links and bushings that would help improve the ride a bit more (slightly more off road flex would be good) versus the super tight road handling it has now? Suspensionmax has ones that look like they offer a bit more range of motion versus the ball in socket OEM setup.
Long story short: Had issues with getting moisture in my headlights. Took my headlights out, dried them out, sealed them up around edges, put them back. I put everything back 100% as taken apart. Now, my headlight beams seem to not be straight. Up and down adjustment is fine. But the lights seem to be off L/R because I have a jagged edge (shadows) where the smooth light beam should be. It also sprays light brightly out to the sides a bit that it never did before. Each side has the exact same issue, the bulbs are straight in the housings as they should be. Unless something in the projectors got disturbed while I had them out, any ideas? When I hit a bump and the lights focus on something close and then focus far as I level out on the road, the beam pattern moves as if the beams are crosseyed. When looking at them straight on, the lights are straight. The beams seam to be super focused on the center, with some glare on the edges. At night, most of the light is concentrated straight ahead instead of spanning out as headlights should.
I was under my truck today and noticed a wiring pin branched out from another harness. It is on the driver's side on the crossmember plate behind the transfer case. It has a plastic placeholder for it, but I can't figure out what this would be for?
That is a Lariat interior, so not high nor low end, but there is nothing ground breaking there... the center screen looks larger and I like they are still using buttons instead of going the Ram route and having all screen (Problems galore). What I don't like is the fact the screen has tons of glare and fingerprints. While I think the GM interiors could use a bit of an update, has anyone actually sat in one or driven one? The layout is well more thought out than you think. Yes, the Ram interiors look amazing, but the overall functionality for a TRUCK is better found in the GM models. Large buttons, everything is easy to get to, and durable. The Ram does have some cheap chintzy components that would not stand up to the real world for anyone using them like a real truck. Speak of the devil, just moments later, look what I found: https://news.pickuptrucks.com/2020/04/2019-2020-ram-1500-2500-3500-multimedia-display-recall-alert.html
From factory mine's recommended 93. Doing lots of research, there is a higher concentration of detergents in 93, and it burns cleaner. I've never put a drop of anything else in it, so I'm not sure for comparison sake, but the engine/power have never been an issue. Just having cleaned my throttle body, it looked like there was less than 5k miles of wear on it. Virtually no carbon buildup at all.
So, if you read my post, you'd notice that I also got it tuned. Also being the driver of my truck, I can tell you that even with my larger and heavier tires, it runs faster than my truck did stock. I am not incorrect in my statement of extra HP. Cold air intake alone added more than 10HP. Don't bore us with your ignorant opinions.
I did K&N CAI, Borla ATAK catback, and Blackbear Tune on my 6.2.... 93 Octane. If I were to drive a stock 6.2 now, I'd probably be super disappointed. My bolt ons and tune probably added about 40HP.. maybe more? Also no more AFM makes the truck more compliant. I also have gotten slightly better MPG since removing it as well.
I saw online today Jet Performance makes a performance throttle body. It has updated programming in it, plus the opening is grooved for improved airflow. Is this the one you were looking at or is there something else?
I have a 2015 with 8 speed and have had issues with it since the first month. Very hard shifts 1-2 and 2-3 on cold starts (100%) of the time. Also weird shifts on in-between gears, etc. Basically everything that everyone else is complaining about with these. I got a blackbear tune done, and that helped minimize some of the annoyances with it. One thing remained, the clunky shifts 1-2 and 2-3 on 100% of cold starts. Yesterday I took apart the cold air intake, MAF, and throttle body. Cleaned everything all up. (First TB cleaning and it wasn't that bad after 51k miles). Put everything back together. It took a couple of cranks to get it to start, the first 2 cranks it stalled out. 3rd attempt it fired up and idled fine. When coasting down my hill, I noticed the 1-2 shift was smooth and quick as silk. The whole drive thereafter the shifting was absolutely perfect, and this was right after it sat (cold start mind you). One odd thing was that my cruise control wasn't working. After getting to my destination, I shut engine off, waited a minute, cranked it back up. Same thing kept happening, it would fire up then stall out within seconds. I had to rev the engine in order for it to stay on. Long story short, I figured out I mounted the MAF sensor in backwards by accident, so I flipped it around. Truck fired up fine, but then the harsh 1-2 shifts etc returned. I am wondering if I am onto something as far as the MAF and how it shifts during a cold start? I believe there is also a TSB notice about excessive casting when the MAF was manufactured, and it relates to hard shifts after a cold start. I'm currently searching online to find it, with no luck so far. Was wondering if anyone would chime in and let me know what they think. Would replacing the MAF be beneficial? I cleaned the crap out of it when I had everything apart. Edit: Found a thread started with no responses. Not sure exactly what part to inspect? Is this the OEM air intake or does it refer to the MAF that carries over to be used in a Cold air intake? PIP5446
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