DENALIHD66

SOLVED. So the front turn signals are a bit different than the wiring on the taillights. There is green, black, and yellow. I originally copied what I did to the taillights (tapped into the black and green wires) but I ended up changing the fronts from the green and black to yellow and black and now they are working. The resistors were getting hot so I know that it was the right one. Wondering why the taillights worked differently unless its because they also have to function as the brake and then that would explain it when its brighter. Very happy with the light output, def

Yeah I only have 3 wires going into my front turn light. I used the green and black ones. The 3rd one I think is white in color but I didn't use that one. At first they worked, but after about a minute they stopped and went to hyperflash.

I have the resistors installed and they are still hyperflashing. I have them connected to the green and black wires on the front turn signals. The rear LEDs work fine with them. I need help figuring out the fronts. There is nothing available online or anywhere that I can find that confirms how they should go on the front turn signals.

2015 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT. Yes I have the DRL bars on mine. I called TRS and they are saying adding resistors to the leds with built in canbus can also be a reason they are still hyperflashing... so they recommended a different bulb. Since the rears work, I guess I'll just swap out the fronts for the non-canbus ones and keep my fingers crossed?

I put all LEDs in my front turn signals and taillights. I had to use resistors even though the bulbs were canbus. I got all the taillights working properly, and I did the same wiring setup on the front turn signals, but they still end up hyper flashing and my information center shows the front turn signals have failed. Can someone confirm how resistors should go for the front turn signals?

I got 6 resistors from TRS. I got the tails installed and they work fine. I did the exact same setup using the same color wires for the front turns but they still hyperflash and throw an error in my DIC. Is there something I am missing for the front ones? The rears I used the two outside wires (black and green) to tap into. The fronts the wiring configuration is slightly different but I used the same black/green combination. The 3rd wire was off white in color.

So TRS sent me load resistors to be installed with the bulbs. All the youtube videos I find consist of the person saudering the wires together instead of using the T-Taps. From what I gather, its the outer 2 wires leading to the bulb that you want to deal with, but as far as how the resistors actually connect into them with the T-Taps, I can't seem to find anything that shows how they need to be installed. The kit comes with Red and Blue colored T-Taps, is there a difference between them? I couldn't find anything on youtube or even this site with a search.

Same thing happens in tow/haul mode too. Again its hard to describe, but its an occurrence that ONLY happens when I stop, shift it from Drive to Reverse, truck starts to drift backwards (as if reverse is engaged) but then that's when it starts to buck for a second or two until it makes connection. Just really odd and I'm trying to figure out why

Anyone have any input whatsoever?

Can anyone weigh in on the Putco plug and play resistors I posted about?

So according to the descriptions, these LEDs when installed in turn signals and brake lights (as turn signals) they do not require load resistors because it is built in. I installed all 4 into my 2015 GMC Sierra taillights. The bulbs will work in either direction (despite it saying polarity specific), and the 4 way flashers and turn signals work fine when only the accessory power is on. The story changes when the truck is running, and when using the turn signals, I experience hyper flash accompanied by a DIC error that the taillights are failing. I haven't yet installed the front bulbs yet

This is a bit hard to describe but I'll try my best. I have ALWAYS had sloppy shifting in my 2015 6.2L with 8 speed. But when I have a heavy load in the bed (500+lbs) I experience a really odd shifting behavior. When I am shifting from Drive to Reverse (come to a full stop) and I let off the brake, the truck starts to drift backwards, as if its engages, but then it starts to buck several times, followed by a clunk roughly 2-3 seconds after starting to drift backwards. Unloaded, the D to R shift typically is fine. But when I get enough weight in the bed, it just behaves so differently.

I have a 2015 Sierra with factory projectors. I have always been running the Morimoto elite kit for Sierra with 35w ballasts and 6000k bulbs. I have had numerous issues with them over the years but thanksfully TRS always honors the warranty and provides great service. I recently just bought the 50w ballasts and installed them today, so I'm excited to see how much better they are tonight. Last summer I took my headlight housings out because I had moisture in the lenses so I let them dry out in the sun. I re-installed them the exact way they go back, and whether I never noticed

Good to know dealer will replace it for free. Here's a video I took from the driver's side today, warm idle.

Vacuum pump for what? What symptoms would I have?