DENALIHD66

I found a video online and that alignment pin is simply a rolled piece of steel. And it says to simply pound it out and discard it. So the provided clips take care of the alignment on their own then? I see tons of posts on these forums of people loving their Zone add a leafs and zero posts about this issue. So I’m not understanding if this is a Max Trailer spring pack issue only, or if others just discarded the alignment pin altogether

I have a 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 6.2L crew cab short bed 4x4 with Max Trailer package. I originally ordered the Zone add a leaf from American trucks. Their website showed compatible. Tear the rear end apart only to find out the add a leafs don’t have the alignment pins. They only have a single hole for the center bolt. American trucks exchanged them and I ordered the ReadyLift add a leaf springs that showed 2 holes in the center of the leaf. They arrived today and they too only have 1 center hole. The sticker on them said Deaver. Not sure if that’s who readylift uses or what? Either way; I need to figure out what add a leaf will fit my truck. It doesn’t seem like the max trailer package has a different option than regular, but I need one that has the alignment pin that’ll fit between my existing leafs. I will use it for heavy hauling and towing so please do not respond with “just go with a block.” Also the ads on this website have gotten insanely obnoxious. This is my third attempt typing this post. Ads have completely interrupted me trying to type this post out every time.

Welp, turns out they DO NOT fit. So their website has them labeled wrong and their tech support didn't know the right answer either. Sucks because they were really nice links.

Well I lined up the sway bar links today and they are much longer than the factory ones. Not sure if the extra length goes through the sway bar connector hole and then gets added from there or what. I'm just taking it to dealer to work on, so if they don't fit, they can snap on some OEM ones. I kinda want to remove the whole front sway bar completely since I have been using my truck a lot off road lately and driving over stumps, and just see how well it handles without it on.

Those cognitos are nice, and per that it says they'll replace my forged steel UCAs but they are the same design as the Kryptonite's, which wont work because of rubbing. I called a tech guy at Kryptonite and he said the sway bar links will fit. Guess I'll find out tomorrow.

Noticed that one of my front sway bar links broke. I want to replace it with an upgraded aftermarket kind that won't wear out as quickly. So I picked up the Kryptonite's. On their website, it seems to specify they are a universal fitment, but its a bit confusing to interpret what they mean. They list "1500/2500/3500 HD" but 'HD' is listed after 1500 (for the few years they did the 1500HD models many years ago). Would these fit my 2015 GMC Sierra 1500? I have the Bilstein 5100s set at the highest 1.8" setting. Here is the amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XG64GBF/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And here is the link from Kryptonite's website: https://kryptoniteproducts.com/products/kryptonite-sway-bar-end-links-0-2?_pos=3&_sid=ca208a0d3&_ss=r Also, it seems very hard to find aftermarket control arms that will fit these trucks unless you have aftermarket wheels or spacers. Is there a good control arm that will help correct ball joint angle (its really not bad at all with the 1.8" Bilsteins) but retain fitment with stock 20" wheels? Looks like the Rough Country ones might, but they are rated for 2.5-3.5" of front lift. Thank you.

Brand new, unopened Morimoto XB LED Fogs. Retail is $220 plus tax. Asking $180 + shipping. Fits the following vehicles: 2014-2015 GMC Sierra 1500 2015-2019 GMC Sierra 2500/3500 2015-2019 Chevy Silverado 2500/3500 Link to product below. Message me if interested. https://www.theretrofitsource.com/gmc-morimoto-xb-led-LF-GMC?quantity=1

SOLVED. So the front turn signals are a bit different than the wiring on the taillights. There is green, black, and yellow. I originally copied what I did to the taillights (tapped into the black and green wires) but I ended up changing the fronts from the green and black to yellow and black and now they are working. The resistors were getting hot so I know that it was the right one. Wondering why the taillights worked differently unless its because they also have to function as the brake and then that would explain it when its brighter. Very happy with the light output, definitely a huge difference.

Yeah I only have 3 wires going into my front turn light. I used the green and black ones. The 3rd one I think is white in color but I didn't use that one. At first they worked, but after about a minute they stopped and went to hyperflash.

I have the resistors installed and they are still hyperflashing. I have them connected to the green and black wires on the front turn signals. The rear LEDs work fine with them. I need help figuring out the fronts. There is nothing available online or anywhere that I can find that confirms how they should go on the front turn signals.

2015 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT. Yes I have the DRL bars on mine. I called TRS and they are saying adding resistors to the leds with built in canbus can also be a reason they are still hyperflashing... so they recommended a different bulb. Since the rears work, I guess I'll just swap out the fronts for the non-canbus ones and keep my fingers crossed?

I put all LEDs in my front turn signals and taillights. I had to use resistors even though the bulbs were canbus. I got all the taillights working properly, and I did the same wiring setup on the front turn signals, but they still end up hyper flashing and my information center shows the front turn signals have failed. Can someone confirm how resistors should go for the front turn signals?

I got 6 resistors from TRS. I got the tails installed and they work fine. I did the exact same setup using the same color wires for the front turns but they still hyperflash and throw an error in my DIC. Is there something I am missing for the front ones? The rears I used the two outside wires (black and green) to tap into. The fronts the wiring configuration is slightly different but I used the same black/green combination. The 3rd wire was off white in color.

So TRS sent me load resistors to be installed with the bulbs. All the youtube videos I find consist of the person saudering the wires together instead of using the T-Taps. From what I gather, its the outer 2 wires leading to the bulb that you want to deal with, but as far as how the resistors actually connect into them with the T-Taps, I can't seem to find anything that shows how they need to be installed. The kit comes with Red and Blue colored T-Taps, is there a difference between them? I couldn't find anything on youtube or even this site with a search.

Same thing happens in tow/haul mode too. Again its hard to describe, but its an occurrence that ONLY happens when I stop, shift it from Drive to Reverse, truck starts to drift backwards (as if reverse is engaged) but then that's when it starts to buck for a second or two until it makes connection. Just really odd and I'm trying to figure out why

Anyone have any input whatsoever?

Can anyone weigh in on the Putco plug and play resistors I posted about?

So according to the descriptions, these LEDs when installed in turn signals and brake lights (as turn signals) they do not require load resistors because it is built in. I installed all 4 into my 2015 GMC Sierra taillights. The bulbs will work in either direction (despite it saying polarity specific), and the 4 way flashers and turn signals work fine when only the accessory power is on. The story changes when the truck is running, and when using the turn signals, I experience hyper flash accompanied by a DIC error that the taillights are failing. I haven't yet installed the front bulbs yet, but before I tear apart the front end to get into the lights, I wanna know if these are still going to require resistors to work and prevent hyperflash. Otherwise, the light output is great and they look much better than the factory halogens. I also replaced the side marker lights with LEDs. These are the bulbs I got. GTR Carbide Canbus (white). https://www.theretrofitsource.com/7440-7443-gtr-lighting-carbide-bulbs-LED.BUL.7443.CAR2?quantity=1 In the event I am going to need resistors, what do you guys recommend and how many do I need? Since my truck has 2 tail lights that flash per side, do I only need to tap one of the bulbs or do I need a resistor for each bulb? Also came across these that fit the 7440 bulbs, would these work instead? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/put-240007 Really dont like the idea of t-tapping exterior wires if I don't have to.

This is a bit hard to describe but I'll try my best. I have ALWAYS had sloppy shifting in my 2015 6.2L with 8 speed. But when I have a heavy load in the bed (500+lbs) I experience a really odd shifting behavior. When I am shifting from Drive to Reverse (come to a full stop) and I let off the brake, the truck starts to drift backwards, as if its engages, but then it starts to buck several times, followed by a clunk roughly 2-3 seconds after starting to drift backwards. Unloaded, the D to R shift typically is fine. But when I get enough weight in the bed, it just behaves so differently. Now, when I'm under the truck on flat ground and truck is off and in park, my driveshaft is tight and has absolutely zero play in it. All my strength cannot make it move whatsoever. When the truck has weight in the back, correct me if I'm wrong, but essentially the driveshaft would be slightly more horizontal and changes the angle of it. When it becomes more horizontal, is it then putting extra pressure on the transmission trying to shift normally because the driveshaft is now "longer" due to the weight in the bed? This is the only thing I can think of. I want to clarify that this happens when I come to a full stop AND when I shift from D to R before coming to an absolute complete stop.

I have a 2015 Sierra with factory projectors. I have always been running the Morimoto elite kit for Sierra with 35w ballasts and 6000k bulbs. I have had numerous issues with them over the years but thanksfully TRS always honors the warranty and provides great service. I recently just bought the 50w ballasts and installed them today, so I'm excited to see how much better they are tonight. Last summer I took my headlight housings out because I had moisture in the lenses so I let them dry out in the sun. I re-installed them the exact way they go back, and whether I never noticed it before or not, the projectors now have a jagged cutoff line with shadows emanating out for the light beam. I have done absolutely everything including adjustment, making sure everything is put back together, even put factory halogen bulb back in, and same jagged cutoff. I have no idea how I never noticed it before but its really annoying and has dark spots, but since its 100% equal on both sides, it just has to be a crappy projector. I have read up on the Morimoto retrofit projectors, and I'm not looking to do that project. If I buy new headlight housings, which aftermarket headlight housings have a better projector lense for a better cutoff, that would fit my HID kit I already have? Most kits come with their own bulbs which isn't a deal breaker but I'd rather use my existing HID system.

Good to know dealer will replace it for free. Here's a video I took from the driver's side today, warm idle.

Vacuum pump for what? What symptoms would I have?

nope

Dang thats crazy, almost same amount of miles as me. I routinely run injector cleaner through my fuel system (Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant) and everything stays very clean. If my truck has lost any power since new, I can't tell at all. Runs like a top after the fix. I do hear a new ticking sound from something on the serpentine belt... thinking its just the alternator though.

Answered this in a previous post, unless it never posted. 57,000