InsuredByBeretta

Unfortunately at the time of the rebuild, I had no idea the issue was this involved. All I knew is I have a 45 minute commute each way and I need to get my truck back as soon as possible. I've never had serious work done like this on a vehicle before. They didn't ask what transmission I wanted to use, they didn't ask what torque converter I wanted to use, I'm sure they didn't do any of that other work you mentioned.

I know this topic is getting beaten to death but I'm just trying to get all of the facts before I bring it back to the transmission shop I have a 2016 Silverado 1500 with the 6 speed transmission. Around 94,000 miles, and exactly a year ago last week, my transmission blew after dealing with the shudder, late shifts, weird down shifts, etc. Everything I read on forums was saying that the stock torque converter is trash and eventually spits out bits of metal into the transmission and that's what causes it to go. I had the transmission rebuilt and the torque converter replaced - I don't know how transmission shops work or what their guys know, I'm sure there are some TSBs out there about this issue, but I told them this seems to be fairly common and that it's my understanding that the torque converter causes the issue so I asked them to not replace it with an OEM one. My original transmission and torque converter lasted 7 years and 94,000 miles until I started experiencing the bad shuddering and terrible shifts. This rebuild has lasted me 8,000 miles and 1 year and I'm experiencing the same exact thing now. The work came with a 1 year warranty so I took it to the original shop I had it towed to. This shop isn't a transmission shop but it's the only guy in town I've ever dealt with, so they outsourced the work to a transmission shop to be serviced. When I took the truck to them last week, they had it for 4-5 days .. Initially they told me that it wasn't throwing any codes but they needed to "relearn" the transmission, to which I asked if that should have and was done when the transmission was rebuilt. He said it was and I said what would cause this to randomly happen now then? He had no answer. After they "relearned" it they called me and said it was ready to pick up.. So I go to grab it and I asked if the relearn helped. He said, "not really, but it seemed to drive fine before." I said why did you do the relearn then? He said he wasn't the one working on it I took the truck to another shop to have them take a look at it. They told me again, it's not throwing any codes, but the torque converter is causing the hard shifts and engaging too early or something to that effect. All I know is this is EXACTLY how it felt shortly before my transmission blew last year, and I explained that to everyone I spoke with at all of the shops. I called the shop that did the original rebuild and explained everything to him. He seems like he doesn't believe me, but wants me to drop it off Monday so he can take it for a drive. So is there a certain torque converter that can fix this? Is it something in the computer that is causing it? Is it the transmission? If I somehow get this guy to cover a rebuild again, or at least a torque converter replacement, is there something specific I should ask for? I don't think this thing will last me another month, and I dropped $4,600 on the original rebuild, I can't swing that again less than a year later..I need this thing done right. Any tips?

Hey guys, This morning on my way to work I noticed my truck was shuddering while shifting. It only seemed to happen on the hilly backroads, once I made it to the highway I didn’t experience it much. On the way home it wasn’t as bad, but I still felt it. I kept hearing a quick squeal whenever it shifted. About a mile away from home I threw it into manual and went through each gear..I never used manual before, so I’m not sure if it’s normal to feel a little bump when shifting, but that was all I felt going from 1-5. Once I got into 6th, I felt the shuddering again. I’m at just around 94,000.. never had any issues prior to this. Never did anything with the fluid.. didn’t seem dirty, just a light pink color. Any help to let me know how screwed I am would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Man, I’m an idiot. That was it. Thank you.

Thanks for the reply.. does limp mode usually shut everything down for a second as you’re driving? Any idea what an average shop might charge to check this out? I don’t think it’s something I can tackle myself over a weekend unfortunately..

Is this really a possible cause of all of the other problems that I’m having, or is this just in reference to the “2 keys programmed” alert? I have wireless carplay and it displays my phone type before it connects, and I noticed that it has a second phone that is saved in the now. I figured it just picked someone up while I was sitting in traffic but now you got me nervous.

Hey! I can manage the basics of a vehicle but this is beyond me.. So starting Monday, I went to start my 2016 Silverado using the fob and nothing was happening. Great, I’m thinking the battery is dead somehow even though I just replaced it less than a year ago. So I go out and start it with the key. The screen flashed and said “2 keys programmed”. I thought that was strange but everything worked normally on the way to work and on the way home, so I thought it was just a weird fluke. Tuesday was fine…Wednesday I had to start the car with the key again. Everything was fine after that. Thursday, I had to start it with the key and everything was fine on the way to work. On the way home, my truck was possessed. Lights flickering, AC shutting down or dying way down, a handful of times the truck just died on the highway..like shut down - no lights, no power steering, music, everything shut down - then it would pick back up again by itself after a second. I got it home, popped the hood and checked the battery terminals..everything was clean and tight. Started it up again and it said “engine power is reduced” on the dash. I wanted to go for a quick test drive to see what that meant, but upon shifting into reverse, I had no throttle response whatsoever.. it didn’t even register the pedal being pressed. Now I’m nervous, so I run inside and start googling. I saw a few people with similar problems and others telling them to get their ECU reflashed. I ran outside one more time just to test things out, and this time the “engine power is reduced” message didn’t pop up, and the throttle worked just fine..but I didn’t want to risk taking it for a drive so I left it be for now. Anyone have any clues? Sorry if there is already a post on this, I have no idea what to search because this seems so involved. Thanks!

Hey! I can manage the basics of a vehicle but this is beyond me.. So starting Monday, I went to start my 2016 Silverado using the fob and nothing was happening. Great, I’m thinking the battery is dead somehow even though I just replaced it less than a year ago. So I go out and start it with the key. The screen flashed and said “2 keys programmed”. I thought that was strange but everything worked normally on the way to work and on the way home, so I thought it was just a weird fluke. Tuesday was fine…Wednesday I had to start the car with the key again. Everything was fine after that. Thursday, I had to start it with the key and everything was fine on the way to work. On the way home, my truck was possessed. Lights flickering, AC shutting down or dying way down, a handful of times the truck just died on the highway..like shut down - no lights, no power steering, music, everything shut down - then it would pick back up again by itself after a second. I got it home, popped the hood and checked the battery terminals..everything was clean and tight. Started it up again and it said “engine power is reduced” on the dash. I wanted to go for a quick test drive to see what that meant, but upon shifting into reverse, I had no throttle response whatsoever.. it didn’t even register the pedal being pressed. Now I’m nervous, so I run inside and start googling. I saw a few people with similar problems and others telling them to get their ECU reflashed. I ran outside one more time just to test things out, and this time the “engine power is reduced” message didn’t pop up, and the throttle worked just fine..but I didn’t want to risk taking it for a drive so I left it be for now. Anyone have any clues? Sorry if there is already a post on this, I have no idea what to search because this seems so involved. Thanks!

Good to know, I'll order them up today, thank you! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs 265/65R18 with stock black wheels that came on my '16 LT Z71 Midnight Edition

Thanks for the help! I think I'll give this a shot next warm weekend!

Are you still able to turn the fogs off separately?

Ran into the same problem haha did they end up fitting?

Any chance you have a picture of where the CB antenna got mounted? I'm looking to install one soon