The Snow Punisher HD

I completely replaced my entire ac system on my last Silverado 2500hd. Was in plumbing/HVAC. First your thermostat will be for engine not ac. Also there is low and high cutoff switches that make the compressor (on which on shut off switch is. I believe low on most trucks). If refrigerant level is too low OR high your compressor will not turn on. First check the pressure via shrader valve on refrigerant line near passenger side back (facing truck front). The high cut off or in some cases maybe low would be near the headlight sometimes frustratingly close to the radiator or otherwise harder to get too. Bumper disassembled is much easier and pulling headlights. If you have pressure not high or low (I would tell you but it's truck specific just Google your correct refrigerant pressure on line.) Also don't just buy those kits to "fix your ac" that makes so many compressors just shut off over pressured when it could be so much more. Replace BOTH cut offs if pressure is ok. Check truck getting it moving helps airflow which is how ac works so it will be easier to tell if any progress is made moving. (For those interested in how it operates otherwise next paragraph) If, both sensors tell computer pressure is in range, compressor should kick on and fan. This is also via accessory drive belt meaning listen for squeaking cracking and if in doubt change belt especially if higher mileage it should be anyway. The refrigerant itself doesn't actually cool. AC works by using this pressure dependent gas or liquid (hi and lo side) (you can tell as lower diameter line is low side (liquid) and increased, thicker line as a gas. It's ability to transfer heat is why it can "move heat, and in the same way "remove heat." The fluid throughout condenser near fan allows air to sort of blow air (why driving helps it feels colder) over the tiny metal fins of condenser. Attaching high, it gradually turns to liquid cooling with help of fan and fins as well as winding length. For ac, this means the heater core with fan internally for a gets the low end attachment in order here, rising as it gets from coolest to warmer. Blowing in cab. The line hits the back passenger corner what people call "the metal thing in back" accumulator. From it the lower diameter (high side as in high pressure) hits an expansion I'll refer to it here as just unit. Then it's easy to see after it follows to you and downward. The drier line really it's course to compressor. The compressor leading to condenser would be low sideor higher diameter low pressure. So it just keeps blowing out heat this way until it appears to be cooling which it technically is but not magically. For the component nerds out there also loving inner working of the parts. Anyway Your rpm should also increase when the compressor kicks on. If not that could indicate a few things being you tuned it. It would be easier for anyone with ability to go to stock since you can't I would say check rpm settings for anything with ac on ensuring I'd say 100 to 150 rpm higher than ac Off. It give the large kick on of a compressor the "oomph" needed and gets things going. Meaning too if your belt is on its way out it might not get that causing problems. You need an AC gauge. I suggest Harbor freight. You can get one for probably $20 in pretty decent quality. It is easier to understand attachment as the sides (3 lines middle only if adding or removing refrigerant via a ill just say "refrigerant pump" if you don't know about it don't just buy refrigerant trying to do it honestly if I was only able to replace parts it would be easy to cut price having a tech simply so the refrigerant after. But initially the gauges easily hung on hold help get idea of "at running temp" or other ways of testing. Not knowing what else may be done I don't want to drive deeper feel free to ask if it's ready now or in future.

For what it's worth allegedly the windshield especially on say an 03 is incredibly strong. In fact black ice say for random example that is just oddly specific, causes loss of traction on turn of a 40mph road as you curse the sky just replacing the alternator... Then have said truck dive downward which straighter is better, my seatbelt popped off and launched me into my windshield. I know I'm thick skulled but so is the windshield because it just cracked thankfully no glass necklace. Allegedly

Wait. Do you know the circuit for this I guess for lack of knowing the term of it, 'Wiper Detection Circuit. And any ties with lights that would be incredibly helpful I imagine to not just me especially for plow owners

I agree. I don't think this is the case man or gal. I'd look into your connection to ignition, ACC, ground, etc etc and anyone at via multimeter and CLEAN GROUND. Chasis works well. That does sound interesting but I would be careful and checked that out too. Probably worth it

On that same Kia if you have a plow on the Silverado it is probably enjoyable launching the kia in a parking lot with no one in that vehicle and owning the vehicle and alleged lot. Kia bowling... But isn't this gm haha should have expected that

Is this on 2016 models? I have a 2016 2500hd wt 6.0. having issues been checking relays. Curious to test if anyone knows when this started much appreciated

Please consider if you're just a Neighborhood plow guy or a true business. If it's for bigger lots you're front end is going to take a Beating. ANd I recommend not a leveling kit for 1500 only 2500 up. Because of this: The plow blade rig center of mass is a distance from axle but distance to mount point on push plates I think Figures in. Think about it simply. 1500 axle rating I don't know honestly. My 01 2500hd is roughly 4800 each axle Now imagine side view, plow center mass point with line to push plates. That's going to pull as a vector meaning it will add torque to parts , IF it is not enough. Like I would recommend Meyer for you not Fisher because of long term wear and on tranny side I have the 4l80e Actually got it replaced rebuilt all new internals Upgraded. Stock one had 200k mileage. It's heavier components for friction caused by load. Don't forget ballast because as close to tailgate line tubes of sand or stacking salt or combo you gotta weigh pros cons Put it this way I love the 2001 to 06 Chevy 2500hd with only the 6.0 LS.its got bench front crew. Heavy to core in this year. I've accidentally hit curbs with a lot of torque or snagged manholes or grates hitting the ceiling where my employees were supposed to mark lmao. But in this business it's all on you ALWAYS. If not doing much Definitely try to find a 6.0 Engine from that year change oil it'll last 400k