Jsdirt

Well, I don't want to pee on your fire, but it's going to be just a bit more difficult than those 2 vehicles you mentioned. You wouldn't think it would be much different, but once you get into it, you'll begin to realize the manufacturer designed this thing to make the most determined among us to throw in the towel and never do anything like it again. It's not impossible, but it will not be a cakewalk under any circumstances. Just be thankful you live in ND, and not the Northeast where road salt rust will confound an already infuriating task. As far as the computerized part of it goes, this is Global A architecture - a word that sends shivers up most tech's spines. You need to be super careful with this, since if you attempt to install ANY module out of any other vehicle, you can cause yourself a string of headaches that may cause you to set fire to the thing. Many a tech as been burned by this. GM snuck this one in around 2011, and guys like myself that would rather be turning wrenches than sitting at a desk staring at a computer screen for 8 hours straight were caught blindsided by Global A. I haven't experienced it myself, but I have heard of an entire vehicle being bricked due to installing a used ECM, or BCM from another vehicle, inevitably ending in the replacement of EVERY SINGLE module in the vehicle, costing THOUSANDS by the time all is said and done. Seems to be a crapshoot as to how screwed you'll be by doing that. The good thing is, 2014 was 10 years ago, so most of the pitfalls are known, so do LOTS of research and reading on that topic. There may be different opinions on this, but any time I do a tough job like this, ANYTHING that could possibly fail WILL get changed while I'm in there. I've got burned countless times on my own vehicles in an attempt to save work, time, or a buck. EVERY TIME!! I'd replace the rear main. Make sure you buy something good, like Fel-Pro, or OE. Another pitfall GM engineered in these days is none of the covers - front or rear- have any dowel pins in them, so locating the cover is CRUCIAL to a good seal replacement job. They make a special tool for this, but I hear some guys have tricks for doing it without the tool. Me? I don't do well doing a job twice, so I'd just buy the tool and sell it on eBay ... or keep it until you sell the truck some time down the road. I did a trans swap on my 2007 Silverado 1500 with the 5.3 & 4L60E back in 2020. Was the most infuriating job I have EVER done in my life!! Everything from the plastic grille, the exhaust manifold flange nuts, transmission cooler lines, and the bellhousing bolts fought me tooth and nail! Took me 2 weeks WITH a lift ... but that was me walking away several times, or else I was going to push that POS off a cliff ... AFTER I set it on fire!! After that job it was the beginning of the end of my career turning wrenches. It soured me so bad that I completely lost my fire for the job. Ended up closing shop in February 2023 and never looked back. Sold everything I owned that was built after 1995, and I haven't been happier! If you were lucky enough (or unlucky, depending on how you look at it ...) to be around when carbureted V8 cars were the norm, these newer vehicles are going to drive you absolutely insane with their piss-poor engineering and serviceability. If you've grown up with 21st century vehicles and all their electronics, this might not be quite as bad for you, since you're young enough to handle the stress. Everyone's different. This is just my take on things after 30+ years of driving them and wrenching on them. Good luck ... and DON'T FORGET TO FLUSH THAT COOLER AND LINES!! When you think it's clean, do it SIX MORE TIMES. If you don't think you can get them clean, REPLACE ALL OF IT. I'd post pics of my ordeal, but this site is a PITA to post pics on. But, I've got an endless YouTube saga of the job if you're extremely bored for the next 3 hours. Links to part 2 & 3 are in the description. NIGHTMARE JOB!!!

I say this all the time because this drives me NUTS! DO NOT GO TO THE DEALER!!! They are not paid to take the proper time for a proper diagnosis. Corporate screws the techs as badly as their customers. You only go to a dealer for warranty work - that's it! Especially not with a 2016. That said, you should be going to a reputable TRANSMISSION shop. People that do nothing but transmission swaps day in and day out. It will cost you a TENTH of what you'll spend in the dealer, and it will be fixed RIGHT, unlike the dealer in most situations like this. Sometimes a failing sensor (like the MAF on gas trucks) can fail and take out a transmission. A dealer will take your $10k, throw a trans in it and never change the MAF. Then next year (or sooner!), you'll be doing the exact same thing right as the warranty runs out. Take it to a trans shop. Even in the worst of cases, a rebuild won't cost HALF of what you were quoted.

This is the "Ask the GM Technician" section of the GM-Trucks Forum. Do you have a specific question?

A body shop would probably know. That would be the place to ask.

You're going to have to go over EVERY single thing you touched during this install. This has all the classic symptoms of a shorted communication wire. Something might have got pinched, insulation nicked, wire broken inside intact insulation (happens a LOT on 21st century GM products), a wire yanked out of a connector, or anything like that. A temporary short may have blown a fuse, too. I recall the underhood fuse box being a problem area on the early D-max engines. My brother's '02 got towed home by me 5 hours 1 way after it crapped out on the highway without warning. I just wiggled some wires beneath the fuse box one day and it was "fixed".

If you're 1,000% certain it HAS oil pressure when this problem happens - you put a KNOWN GOOD pressure gauge right on the block and verified - then it's more than likely a failed pressure sensor. That said, you'll need to make 100% certain it IS the sensor and NOT the wiring before buying any parts.

Yep, excellent point! It's tough to get OE parts that work right the first time. The aftermarket, which they copied, doesn't have a prayer!

Just because a code says a part is bad doesn't mean that part is bad - that's why diagnostics are important ... unless wasting money is an enjoyable hobby for you. Like Cam said, some codes would be helpful to us, in order for us to help YOU.

I'd wager it's probably something to do with the engagement portion of things. May have ended up partially engaged, and is skipping over the splines. However these are the weakest differentials ever produced, so anything is possible.

I hear so many stories just like the OP's that it's IMPOSSIBLE to NOT paint them all with the same brush. They are ABYSMAL. If you do happen to get a good one by some miracle, that says a ton about the people working there. They are beholden to corporate, which is the root of EVERY bad thing associated with dealerships. Corporate screws their techs just as bad as their customers. I can't speak for how they treat the dealership brass, but if it walks like a duck, and looks like a duck .... you know the rest! Can only assume dealerships themselves also get screwed, so they then have to REALLY go the extra mile to make things just halfway decent for customers. Count your lucky stars Stan, because there are FAR more bad dealers out there than good. Corporate, regardless of brand, is to blame, EVERY time.

*THIS* ... right here people, is why you DO NOT go to a dealer for repairs unless you're still under warranty!! A turbo for exhaust smell ... Oh my head!! FIND AN INDEPENDENT SHOP. Even an exhaust specialty shop could probably find this. It's probably just a $200 exhaust repair. WOW!! Sorry you're part of the crew who has got completely screwed by corporate dealerships, yet again. I scream on top of my soapbox about this, and have for DECADES ... yet nobody ever listens.

9 times out of 10, multiple codes, no matter what system they're for, are due to bad wiring or connections. I'd find out what wires you're looking for, for the solenoids, and see if something has rubbed through somewhere, concentrating on areas of heat & vibration (loose sections of loom / harness, especially when curved around metal). I had a bunch of similar codes with some network codes on my '07 900-series after a transmission swap. All that work, then had to deal with that b/s!! Was LIVID. Ended up being that huge round plug going into the trans case. Pins must not have made good contact when I plugged it in to the new transmission. Just some DeOxit D5 and a wiggle fixed it.

Been in auto repair almost since birth - 5 decades of being around motor vehicles, never once have I heard that acronym.

I don't put much faith in additives of ANY kind (except diesel additives these days), but glad it's working for now. If you had a 2007 or newer, you'd have already spent a few grand on a new transmission. Prior to that, transmissions took MUCH more abuse. Back in the day, I had a '85 Monte Carlo with the 200-4R transmission that never had second gear the moment I bought it. I drove that thing to NYC, the White Mountains of NH, and towed ATVs on a snowmobile trailer every weekend for over 2 years with it. When the transmission finally let go, it started with a loss of reverse. No biggie - I just had to make sure that I didn't have to back out of wherever I parked, unless there was a hill that I could use gravity on. Then, the rest of the gears failed leaving me with only 1st gear. I was at least still able to drive it until a got another car, then was able to drive it to the junkyard for $100 - the owner didn't want to pay me since the car was in such bad shape, but his advertisement said, "if you drive it here you get $100!" That was a chunk of money, at least for me, back in 1995!

Without more, it's hard to guess, but it does sound like you're not getting proper condenser airflow. Fans need to work as designed, AND the condenser should be clean - especially in between the condenser and radiator. Debris loves to pile up in there. With a set of gauges on it, if your pressures go sky high until you command the fans to high speed, then that's your problem. Could be a number of things on a '15, too, like blend door issues as well. But I would focus on the fans & temp sensors. You can check operation easily with a scan tool. If you want to go deeper in testing, check out ScannerDanner on YouTube.

You're going to need a pretty good code scanner to even begin to figure out what the issue is.

If you live outside of CA, I'd throw the entire system in the trash and put electrical tape over the "money" light. Especially on a quarter-century old truck. Sell the new part and the rest of it on eBay - someone in CA will probably buy them. I never got into troubleshooting those since that's where every single one I've ever seen went.

This happens to all my tires ... because I drive like a lunatic. They cup / feather on the outside edge, even when everything is new / tight up front, pressures set right for the weight of the vehicle, and alignment is spot on. These trucks handle amazing, but they still weigh 5-6k lbs., so if you drive aggressively, they'll cup or wear on the outer edges. If the alignment is right, it's right. I'm not an alignment guy and never have been, but I can't see how any damage from an accident, or whatever, could cause tire wear if everything is correct with the alignment ... unless it's the type that is referencing the rear axle which could be out of whack from the frame. That's a stretch, and I'm just thinking out loud.

Pretty easy to get a modern vehicle to not run in this day and age. Just about any one wire to a switch, and the truck is bricked, lol. My thought is a 5 second timer on the fuel pump module - let the thieves think they've got it made ... then the truck dies in the middle of the street, where you can play baseball with them with a nice aluminum bat. There are other, much easier ways ... but you're in CA. Worse than where I'm at, and that's saying A LOT!

To expand on this a bit further so people understand ... Say, theoretically, to fix a complex electrical failure it will take a combined 50 hours of troubleshooting, but the book time only pays 3 hours, GM isn't going to give you 47 free hours. They nickel and dime techs TENTHS of an hour over lunch breaks, and walking to the toolbox. 47 hours is absolutely NOT going to happen. So what WILL happen is, they will continue to toss parts at the vehicle until the problem goes away. Sometimes it never does. Those parts are all billed to YOU, along with the associated labor to install them. You can see where this is going ... You can't blame the techs - no one is willing to work for free, so you can't expect them to either.

Indeed it is! If you've got deep pockets, you won't mind. If you work hard for your money, you'll be livid. Like I always say, this statement isn't to bash all dealer techs - there's some great ones out there. It's more a corporate bashing, since they screw their techs as much as their customers. The pay system encourages speed over thorough diagnostics. To troubleshoot failures like this, speed is the exact OPPOSITE of what you want to be doing.

Added features / options on newer vehicles equal added complexity, more wiring, and more ways things can fail. Prime example of that right here. Impossible to diagnose with the limited info. We'd have to see codes, if any, and live data from a scan tool to even glance at the potential issue. That said, my guess is you've got something bringing down one of the many communication networks on these machines. Then, there's the possibility that this is all just piss-poor build quality and nothing is wrong electrically. Having several systems fail all at the same time on a 5 year old 21st century vehicle is not outside the realm of possibility. Either everything is failing at the same time (possible), or there's a communication issue causing multiple issues (very likely). The fun is figuring out which. If you have limited or zero understanding of high and low speed CAN, MOST bus, and LIN networks, I'd start doing some intensive Google research on a local NON-DEALER (IMPORTANT!!!!!) shop that specializes in electrical gremlins, AND has great reviews - a tall order these days, I know. You might have to have to travel an hour or more to find one. My best advice? STAY AWAY FROM THE DEALER with this one.

You'll have to go wire by wire to rule out a short in the wiring. Unless the BCM failed catastrophically, I'd bet on a short to ground somewhere along that run. I'd start by unplugging the connector, and testing for a dead short at the pin - if the BCM is shorted internally, only fix to that is replacement, then programming. If wiring issues were easy to find, everyone would be an auto tech.

Looks like you POSSIBLY have a bad MAP sensor, or a bad connection or the wiring to it. But, a random misfire can be caused by many things - air leaks, bad plugs or ignition component failure, etc.. You need to find out which.

I've seen this happen in small engines, but it was a 350° - 355° rotation, with only 10° or less where it stopped dead. That was due to excessive carbon buildup on the piston. That was caused by running crap, stale fuel for many hours, then letting the equipment sit idle for years. The carbon would swell up on top of the piston (presumably from moisture and then lots of gasoline in an attempt to get it running again), enough so that the piston couldn't pass through top dead center. I actually have a picture of the carbon I peeled off a Tecumseh generator engine I'll attach ... With a 180° rotation, if the problem wasn't there prior to starting the work, then it's something that was done during the repair. There's no mechanical system that intentionally locks an engine - I can just imagine the carnage with a system like that with the way quality control is these days! Oh yeah ... can't attach pics here for whatever reason. Only forum on the net that won't let me! Guess I'll have to link it: https://postimg.cc/ppM8vFnZ