Jsdirt

Anything prior to 2007 will work, since the earlier engines had a 24x reluctor for the crank sensor. '07-up have a 58x reluctor. Also, 2007 engines can have EITHER / OR a 58x or 24x reluctor - there was the "classic" GMT-800 truck sold right along side the "New Body Style" GMT-900 trucks. To make everything go as smooth as possible, I would take the ENTIRE driveline (minus the front / rear diff & transfer case) - engine, transmission, and the engine computer, BCM, & harness, and swap ALL of it. If the donor engine is complete like this, it won't know the difference as to which vehicle it is in.

Yeah, crank position sensor will most definitely cause a no-spark condition. If when you're cranking you see zero tachometer needle movement, or the scan tool reads zero RPM, then more than likely the sensor is bad (Or the plug, or its wiring). You can test it with an incandescent test light while a helper cranks it over. Could be something that got disturbed during the job, or could just be a coincidence that something failed in the ignition system. I've had that coincidental failure happen to me. I changed a distributor assembly on a '96 Tahoe, and after installing the new one just happened to be the time the ICM failed. I chased my tail for DAYS on that one! Was a major contributor (Among a million other reasons) for me closing shop after 14 years. Stress city!! This site is a pretty good help for diagnostic purposes: https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.8L-5.3L-6.0L/cmp-ckp-sensor-wiring-diagram-1 You can also search on that site for general ignition troubleshooting.

If it ran before the tranny swap, you need to go back and look over EVERYThING you touched. Something either got left unplugged, a bad wire broke inside the insulation making it very difficult to find, a wire is pinched in the bellhousing, or a ground or 2 was not reconnected.

I worked on vehicles for decades, and I wouldn't touch that with a 10 foot pole. First place I'd be asking this question is a glass or body shop. Nobody else would be able to help with this. Especially not a dealership.

I'm betting the sensor threads are stuck in the block hole still. You'll need to get them ALL out. You might have to unbolt the transfer case or transmission mount, and jack the trans up to force the engine up and away from the firewall for a LITTLE more room. I don't know what year truck you've got here, but if it's an '07-up, get a good nights rest and a big breakfast - you're gonna need it. You'll also have to watch harnesses, wires, fuel and A/C lines to make sure you don't over-tension any when moving the engine. You'll also have to make sure not one piece of any of it falls into the hole. If in fact the block hole is stripped and you need to use a tap (I have no clue what thread pitch that is - you;ll have to match that up with the new sensor), load that tap up with grease to catch all the metal. It's gonna be a fun one. I don't envy you! Good luck.

Why would you change the MAF without diagnosing that as a problem? Sounds like you've either introduced issues due to poor parts quality, disturbed some chaffed wiring, or, you were way off base in your assumptions and you've got internal engine problems. From here, it's anyone's guess. First thing I'd do is make sure the OE MAF was actually bad, and check your connector & wiring to the MAF to see if any damage was done during the install. I suspect that cam correlation code has something to do with the original problem - either the timing chain jumped, or a cam phaser failed. At this stage it would've been cheaper for your to find a local shop to diagnose the issue, rather than fire the parts cannon at it. And for anyone reading, and for future reference, it would be a HUGE help ... and get you a faster response ... if you would post the code meanings with the codes. We aren't all walking encyclopedias. There's too many codes today for anyone in this field to possibly memorize.

First thing to check would be ALL fuses. I'm thinking a few are blown. If that checks out, check to see if the high speed CAN communication is still working (I can't recall if these had communication to the cluster or not - if not, disregard this check). Also, try starting the truck without the scan tool hooked up. It may have self-destructed & shorted internally, which would bring down communication through the entire vehicle, so you need to take that out of the equation.

Wouldn't shock me one bit if 100 different doors had 100 different spring tensions - that's the quality control I expect from GM these days. I spent 14 years in small engine repair & auto repair (Running my own shop - did it for decades prior on the side), and I can tell you, from a quality standpoint, everything from the 21st century sucks. The early part (2000-2006) actually wasn't too bad when you compare it to the past 16 years. After the '07 model year, quality took a nosedive. Systems got super complicated, metal got REALLY thin, we started to see failures in systems that used to be off limits to the cheapout game (Brakes, engines, transmissions, rear ends, etc.), repair costs went through the roof, etc, etc.. I still own and operate a 1986 Mercury Grand Marquis LS. We bought it in 2003 with 68k miles. It now has 304k on the ORIGINAL driveline, and ORIGINAL electric in-tank fuel pump. Try getting that to happen on anything today! Runs like a top. Another thing - go through the carwash in a 1950's car, and then do each decade newer - the noise / metal movement gets louder and louder / more and more the newer it is. My '07 Silverado sounded like a child pounding on loose sheet metal hanging from a clothesline whenever you hit the dryer - wipers would lift off the windshield, etc., ... while my '72 El Camino handled me at 150 lbs. climbing on the roof without a single dent!! Try that on anything built the past 26 years, lol - you'll probably end up standing on the seats! I've been driving for 34 years, and I have NEVER, EVER had a fuel door fly open in a car wash ... not even a little! Nobody I know has either, and none of my buddies that are still in the auto repair industry say they've ever had, or heard of, that happening to anyone either. This is a new thing, and is not in the slightest bit shocking to me. Sounds to me like the typical 21st century cheapout game going deeper and deeper down the wormhole of doom.

I've driven all kinds of cars and trucks from many different eras over the past 3+ decades. I can assure you, it's the vehicle - NOT the car wash.

Not shocked one bit to hear of the fuel door flinging open. Pretty soon, car washes will do body damage if this trend of cheaping out on everything continues at the past 26-year trajectory ... if they're not already!

I can't say for sure since I threw in the towel before I bought the laptop and J-box for programming, and sold the vehicle I was going to buy it for, for a 1993 model ... but I'm about 99% sure EVERY option is in a list when you program a BCM, so it should be in there. I can remember colleagues hitting the wrong options, then having codes left and right that they couldn't clear ... because that system didn't exist, lol. Ahh, the joys of modern automobiles! Glad I quit that racket. I'd stay the hell away from the dealer and try to find a privately owned shop that has this capability. Talk to people, and / or read reviews ahead of time, so you don't get screwed, or sent down a 2 week long rabbit hole of bricked computers & a 4-figure bill. If you go to the dealer, I can guarantee you a BIG headache, and an even BIGGER bill! STEER CLEAR.

Yeah, those fuel trims aren't bad at all. My Flex 5.3 in a '07 Silverado 1500 had from -12% to -18% fuel trims any time I threw the scan tool on it. Mileage wasn't great, but wasn't nearly as bad as 3 MPG. I'd be checking brake rotors / drums for excessive heat. You could have a hung up caliper or collapsed brake hose causing the brakes to not retract. Parking brake cables could be rusted and both brakes applied fully. Tire pressure could also be low. With mileage that bad this should be super easy to track down. If it's not dumping black smoke out the exhaust, then it's a mechanical problem elsewhere. Or, you've got no oil in the engine or other parts of the driveline. Or you've got a bad fuel injector (or 8 )but the chinese o2 sensors aren't reading properly ...

For what it's worth, I had the same vehicle, only a Silverado (same exact platform). At 75k or so, my oil analysis was showing higher than average wear metal content, from pistons, rings, and camshaft presumably. I went from Amsoil Signature Series 5w-30 to the same oil in a 10w-30, and wear metals DRAMATICALLY decreased. I only did 2 more samples after that, but everything was good. I sold the truck at 134,5xx miles, still running strong. I had been using a Range AFM disabler since 75k, so that was a big factor, too- I would recommend getting one if that engine hasn't been deleted. I'd wager it was rebuilt not too long ago for lifter failure. I have yet to see one make it to 170k on the stock AFM lifters.

Communication is key here.

The sensor for that is on the side of the transmission. Sounds like it got whacked out of range somehow.

Probably the same clunk my 2007 Silverado had starting at 2k miles. Was the driveshaft splines. Greasing them was the fix. More shoddy engineering - par for the course today. GM loves to create problems and never fix them. Definitely let GM fix that under warranty. That way it's documented in case the thing ever decides to let go when you're just out of warranty.

Yep, gotta love GM and their low-bidder driveline components. They'll never change! Happened on my '07's 4L60E, happens with the newer transmissions & models, and is STILL happening with the '19 up junks. If you plan on keeping the vehicle and need it to be reliable, you'll have to work through the failures as they come, and after doing some research, replace the parts with stuff 100x better engineered than GM could possibly muster in the 21st century. I had to replace my '07's transmission at 103k miles after 3rd and 4th went up in smoke without prior warning. Fluid was still as red as the day I flushed it through, 50k miles earlier. I went with a PerformaBuilt transmission, and was VERY happy with the transmission, their workmanship & customer service. Not sure if they build anything above a 4 speed, but I highly recommend those guys. Even if they don't, a phone call to them might get you pointed in the right direction. Eventually they'll start building these, since there's going to be plenty of failures, and the 4L60 & 80E's are going to age out like the TH350 / 400 / 700R4 did.

On an '11, it very well could be that, or an electrical or wiring issue.

I'd find another dealer. This is GM's problem, and they need to fix it on THEIR dime.

I have minimal time, so I couldn't watch the vid - just FYI. Everything on these is controlled by the BCM (Body Control Module). Switches are just inputs to the BCM - they don't actually switch current going to the lights. The BCM makes the electrical connection to the lights. You're going to have to wire them in old school, but you'll have to use a cube relay to run the lights, since the switches are so crappy they'll fry to a cinder the moment you turn the high beams on. Actually, it'd probably fry on low beam. They were low bidder designs to start with, and NEVER designed to carry the actual load of the lights. Be prepared for all kinds of strange backfeeding to the cluster, too, like the high beam light staying on at all times, dimly. I would scrap that and install a complete custom cluster, either using Autometer or high end digital gauge packages that are out there. So, throw the BCM in the trash, and wire them up with a relay. The BCM controls many other things as well, so you're going to be doing a LOT of wiring. Normally EVERYTHING goes through the BCM - wipers, HVAC, windows, locks, and key security for a crank, and run signal. It'll be a bit of a PITA, but you'll have the most reliable '99 out there when it's all done.

No problem. Mechanically, they're mostly the same, but electrically they are worlds different.

If the '07 is a GMT-900 (also known as a 2007.5), no chance in hell. If it's a GMT-800, it will be MUCH easier.

They have an idle shutdown on these now? Unreal ... This sounds like something you'd have to find a performance tuning shop for, IF it can even be done. I don't know what state Bordentown is in, but if you live in a free state like NH or FL, your chances of success will be much higher.

That is just absolutely F'ing ridiculous on a vehicle they sell for 6-figures. No such lag in my 12v! Might not have the same power output, but that can be fixed with money.

What codes besides that? It's probably a bad shift solenoid if it starts off in 2nd gear - common issue in those days. Not sure why you'd replace the ignition switch and MAP for this problem. Either has nothing to do with the other. There's no "limp mode" in this generation. It either works, or it doesn't.