Jsdirt

No one is forcing you to stay, fella. I'm sure the guy can read. He's an engineer.

Why am I going to pay $65k to get what I have now, with MORE complicated and failure-prone electronic garbage? I'd have to be friggin STUPID! I don't get paid to work on my own crap. You're a friggin genious! I have tons of issues with a vehicle ... and your solution is to go out and buy another MORE expensive one. BRILLIANT!! After 15 years, I've finally replaced a large percentage of all the failure prone GM crap on this thing. All that's left now is the engine. I'd be a fool to get rid of it now. My payments are ZERO, excise taxes and insurance are low. I've got it made in the shade. In fact, all 3 of my vehicles, and a motorcycle have ZERO payments. Our '86 Grand Marquis is STILL on the original driveline. Even still running the ORIGINAL electric in-tank fuel pump! 291k miles!! Now explain to me why the Silverado's driveline only lasted 97k?

You're probably right, but it's worth a shot anyway. Here's a question for everyone ... what kind of piece of ****** loses 20 computers because of a lift kit???

Technically they have to PROVE that the aftermarket part in question caused the failure of their part. But, we all know how GM loves to weasel their way out of that one.

Childish ... that's a good one! Want some crapping engineering examples? Here ya go! AFM lifters - still junk 15 model years later! STILL FAILING!! Valve springs that break and are impossible to see sometimes Cam bearings that walk out of their bores (Shoddy machine work) Half a million places to lose oil pressure No dowels to locate the timing cover OR rear main cover Stainless hardware on exhaust manifold flange studs that seize due to the clearance between the nut and stud, making drilling it out a NIGHTMARE FROM HELL Exhaust manifold studs so close to the cats that nothing fits on one or 2 of them Bellhousing bolts so close to the body you have to use non-impact sockets Plastic EVERYTHING that breaks ZERO quality control on interior fitment - squeaks and rattles galore! Transmission that have endless issues depending on type, and are lucky to make it 100k miles Spider gear that lose the tips of their teeth for no reason ... other than GM sourcing CHEAP chinese metals Ball joints that can't even make it 40k miles on MA roadways Hub bearings ... see ball joints - it's the same! Brakes that pulsate with FORTY miles on the test drive odometer 4x4 switch that couldn't make it 2k miles Oil burning at 50k miles Front differential oil leaks at 50k miles Would you like me to continue? You got one thing right Tyler - they're ALL junk today! No question about that. GM is hands down one of the worst for the past 15 model years.

Unless communication or signal wires were pinched and shorted (Would've been evident the DAY the lift was installed), I find it hard to believe the install caused the computers to go down. GMs crappy engineering is more likely. I'd find another dealer for as many opinions as it takes to get this resolved. May even have to go up the food chain to corporate, eventually. I wish you luck through all that - GM SUCKS. If they can screw you and save a nickel, they'll gleefully do so.

Here in MA, my lower ball joints were SMOKED by 38k miles. By 50k, one strut, and both uppers were gonzo. Hub bearings followed not long afterward. The roads up here rival the 3rd world ... And of course, cheaping out on metals doesn't help things much ...

If you live in the Northeast, it more than likely needs a front-end overhaul - ball joints, tie rod ends, shocks, maybe hub bearings, sway bar end links and bushings, probably shocks, tires, and definitely an alignment after the work is done. Or, it could just be you're running low-profile, super wide tires. That's just the way they are.

Sounds familiar!!

Just a quick Google search is your friend: https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&channel=mac_bm&q=GM+23317176+magneride+substitute&spell=1&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiVqpiLlLj5AhV7M1kFHYZvCAwQBSgAegQIARA1&biw=1853&bih=1186&dpr=2

There's a ground and/or wiring problem somewhere. The fun part is tracking it down.

If you've got a misfire that severe, the check engine light will be flashing. If there's no flashing MIL, then there's something else going on. Remember, in the 21st century "NEW" means, Never Ever Worked. In other words, just because the driveshaft is new doesn't mean the u-joints are good. Now if you've got the flashing light, I'd bet money on failed lifters, a galled camshaft lobe, or busted valve spring(s). It's just a GM thing. Instead of correcting the problem in 2008, they just keep reusing the same exact low-bidder junk parts in the valvetrains of nearly every truck engine all the way to the present day.

Probably a combination of a few things. Could be lazy o2's - can't tell that on paper. Need to watch them live. MAF reading is a bit high at idle - that could be failing, too. Bank 1 is leaner - could be a leaking EVAP purge valve. That acts just like a vacuum leak once all the fumes are purged from the charcoal canister.

There's a strong possibility that this option might have to be programmed into the BCM with a J-box & laptop. I'd see if you can find a mobile programmer, or a shop that does this (They're few and far between, just FYI). Steer clear of any dealers, unless you've exhausted every other option.

Upload it to YouTube as an "unlisted" video, then post the link here. Sounds like it might have developed a misfire. If that's the case, check wiring on top of engine that may have been touched or disturbed during the oil change, or any oil that may have spilled on any coil.

Well, blue smoke is oil, white smoke is coolant (Or a SEVERELY rich condition - as in an injector dumping raw fuel into the pipe). Doesn't take much oil to make smoke, so you could be using it, but haven't done enough miles on the oil to detect it. Either way, it's under warranty (IF less than 3 years old). Let GM fix their frigg-up if that's the case.

That's your problem - you need to find out why.

That's pretty much how it works - computer sees brakes applied, cuts cruise. Back in the day they were adjustable. I haven't been under the dash of anything this new yet, so who knows if it still is. Something tells me that's probably an expense GM cut, but you never know. You'll have to get under there and look.

I would load that wire to see if it can handle the current load. Isolate it completely from both ends, use a power source and a halogen headlamp bulb and use that length of wire to power it up. If the bulb is nice and bright, you can be certain the wiring is good. I wouldn't go winging a clockspring at it until you test everything out first. Will be a huge waste of money and time if that's not it. Usually when they fail, NOTHING works - horn, switches, backlighting. I'd only replace that if I exhausted all other options.

I still think there's a wiring issue. I'd check the wiring from the BCM to the switches first. BCM is always a possibility, but I'd want to exhaust all other options first before condemning any module. I don't think the clockspring is an issue since all the switches work ... but that's still a possibility, too.

Give them a tug, or a continuity test. They can break inside the jacketing - you'd never find it visually in that case. If the wire stretches like elastic and breaks in your hand, it was broken internally.

Unfortunately anything is possible. Without testing things, it's anyone's guess. Most common issue is the wires break from the tilt wheel function bending them back and forth, since GM uses some of the worst quality wiring I've ever seen, and has for over 15 model years. If I were a betting man I'd say the problem is in the wiring right in the column. The flex point of the tilt wheel is where I'd start looking.

I found this interesting problem of running with the key off in a YouTube video. Not what I would have expected causing the issue! Check it out:

Could be a clockspring issue, or more likely some crap wiring that split and shorted, or broke completely.

Uhhg - this thing got the parts bazooka blasted at it. You need to find out what you're losing when it dies. Spark, or fuel, then go from there. Since everything AND the kitchen sink has been thrown at this one, I'd bet on a wiring issue to either the fuel pump or ignitor (Or possibly both).